albert

Part 11 – Installing the Frames – cont’d
 
Well, I looked closely at the frames and checked them out with a square.  Unfortunately, Brian was correct – frame 27 leaned badly aft, and frame 29 leaned forward.  Frame 28 wasn’t too bad, but I decided to remove all three frames and start over.  I injected isopropyl into the mounting holes in the center of each frame, and brushed some hot water on them as well.  They all came out fairly easily.
 
                        
 
I decided to use another fixture (one on each side) that would allow me to keep the frame positioned vertically perpendicular to the shipway.  The edge of the fixture is lined up with the joint line between the two sister frames (sorry about the out-of focus photo).
 
                        
 
A key in being able to see the joint is to have enough light!  I have a couple of small lamps from Ikea that I find extremely useful, and I positioned these on each side of the frame – worked great!
 
                        
 
I dry-fit a frame using the new clamping arrangement and it worked fine.
 
                        
 
So I went ahead and installed frome 27, followed a few hours later by 28.
 
                        
 
When everything was clamped well, I then installed filler pieces between the frames.  These fillers, as in the spalls, are of poplar.  The cam clamps are homemade clamps from an article in an old magazine on miniature woodworking - they're a miniaturized version of a luthier's clamp.
 
                        
 
                        
 
After a couple of hours to set, I removed the clamps and the frames look good – and they check out with a square as vertical.  Another lesson learned, and another step along the way.
 
                        
 
 

More progress . . . with the before-I-pretty-it-up look.  I've settled into a pace that feels sustainable over the long haul.  So, it's slow and steady.  I work on the Cheerful daily, but with warmer temps, also have other things going on. 
 

 

 
Erik

Another photos 
 

 

 

 

Very beautiful work.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 159 –Deadeye Chains continued
 
Work on the chains and deadeyes has been slow going, but I have a few progress pics to post.  After making the large 16” deadeyes for the lower shrouds and fitting some of them to the channels, I turned to the smallest size – the 6” deadeyes for the skysail mast backstays.  I then started working back upward in size.  The fist picture shows some of the smaller deadeyes, placed in position on a drawing of the starboard fore channel.
 

 
When this was taken, I had not yet made the 9” deadeyes for the fore and main topgallant backstays, but the other sizes are shown.  The drawing is incomplete – note the missing chain plate cleats at the foot of the chains.  The numbers on the drawing are line numbers from the rigging list.
 
I used a slightly modified process in making the small diameter deadeyes.  The next picture shows the rounding of a 9” deadeye in the lathe using a barrette file.  I used a shaped cutter for the 16" and 13" sizes.
 

 
After this step the deadeye was parted off as with the larger sizes.  The next picture shows the set up for drilling all the deadeyes.
 

 
After dropping a few of these down into the chuck while trying to align them in the jaws, I resorted to the blue masking tape in the picture to place the deadeye and hold it while tightening the jaws.  This worked perfectly and is a good solution for those of us with shaky hands.  The next picture shows drilling.
 

 
The holes are approximately 10% larger than the specified lanyard diameter.  The next picture shows the fore starboard channel with all the chains and deadeyes fitted and the capping rails pinned in place.
 

 
The last picture shows the slots for the chains on the port fore channels being filed out.
 

 
Before this step, the positions of the slots for each line on each channel was marked using a string from the appropriate height on the dummy foremast that can be seen in this picture.  A common slot size was used even though some of the chains are smaller.  This was done to allow the eyes on the lower ends to pass through the slot if a replacement is necessary later.  Since the soldered joints take rigging stresses, this is a distinct possibility given the large number of soldered joints.  Best to be prepared.
 
Ed

Wonderful work.

Very beautiful work.

Very nice work.

Very nice work.

Thanks for the "likes" and comments.
 
Rudder coat time....
 
I tested several materials ranging from paper, silkspan, to handkerchief and a pillowcase.   I decided the pillowcase cloth would best replicate canvas.   After sorting out design and how I was going to mount it, I stained the cloth with some wood stain to give it tarred canvas look and when dry attached it to the rudder.
 

 
I've attached the rudder to the ship and glued down the rudder coat.   It's looking splotchy so I'll see what happens when the glue fully cures out.  I might just brush on some more stain but the worse case is that I'll paint it.  
 
The French didn't use a metal ring like a lot models show (here on MSW anyway) but nails.  Since those are 1" nails (full-size), I'm not going to try to duplicate them although I'm testing a method for simulating them...
 

 
More on the rudder, later, as there's still more details to finish up.

Very nice work.

Very beautiful work.

Very beautiful work.

Very nice work.

Another photos 
 

 

 

 

in situ on the ship next to the temporary one I made some time ago to ensure correct spacing and size between the bitts
 
does anybody have any ideas what to use for the floor/hearth bricks under the stove when I finish the stove
 
thanks

When i joined the site i was looking for information on the brodie stove, using some of the excellent build logs, AOTS Diana and pictures from the victory i have now started to build my version for the Syrius
 

 

 

 
 
 

Not had a great deal of time this week but have managed to finish the main hatch and started main mast partner
 

 

Very beautiful work.

Wonderful work.

A milestone was reached today along with a a few small updates. . .
 
Not surprisingly, it was pointed out at the last club meeting that the starboard side boom crutch was leaning a bit outboard compared to the other one. I was able to correct this after removing it and re-sanding the bottom surface to a slightly different angle. The back of each crutch was also sanded to mimic to the overall curve of the transom. Maybe not perfect, but overall I'm satisfied with the result.
 

 
I quickly found that making the strops for the deadeyes (those attached to the chainplates) were going to take some trial and error fitting in order to determine the proper length. A small change and they would rise above or fall too far below the cap rail fancy molding.
 
With that in mind I made a simple jig to make uniform strops at the proper length. 22 gauge wire was bent around .045 music wire (Photo 2) and formed to the proper length (photo 3). After inserting a 5/32" dowel into the hole (photo 4) the wire is crisscrossed and pulled tight against the dowel (photo 5). The wire was then ready to be cut and wrapped around the deadeye.
 

 
Prior to attaching the chainplates and a number of eyebolts, the wales were lightly sanded, taped off and given final spray coats of Grumbacher "Mars Black" Acrylic paint. I have switched over from the W&N acrylics since having difficulty getting their "Mars Black" acrylic paint to brush on evenly and dry thoroughly. The outer hull details are now completed other than some weathering detail on the plates.
 

 
Moving to the inboard details, I drilled out the inboard scuppers and made the catheads.
 

Ed: no special paper was used, just regular bond. As it's sealed on both sides, (paint on one, white glue on the other) deterioration is unlikely.
 
Thanks to everyone for looking in and for all the 'likes'. It's very encouraging!
 
Today I installed the aft thwart and mooring timber heads, as well as the tiller. There was no indication of a tiller on the draught, so this is my own invention. I may paint the hand-hold in crimson. The tiller was carved and sanded to shape by hand, not turned.
 
At this point in the build, it is time to make a list of what remains to be done. There are ornamental carved brackets at each corner of the coach, two ensign staffs and their flags. Also, there are twelve oars to make. Stay tuned!

Wonderful work.

Wonderful work.

Cog: No, I use acrylic paint, so there are no issues. I still stretch the paper as if doing watercolour, though!
 
Alan: Whatever gives you the impression that I make no misteaks?
 
I repainted the decorative work to the correct length, cut the pieces out and glued them to the model. The cut edges are not an issue here, as they are hidden by mouldings top and bottom, and also overlapped at the ends.
 
The friezes installed, I then cut, shaped and painted the planksheer rails above the decorative work and glued these to the model. The coach is still removable at this point, so giving a clear field of operation.
 
Aft of the coach is another thwart with what appear to be mooring posts attached. These are next on the list.