Mike Y

The chain pumps:

Upper capstan:

The upper deck capstan:

mounting the rudder:

I've made many "jigs" or "accessories" for my large table saw over the years and now that I have a modeling table saw I've duplicated many of the things I've done with my big table saw.
 
Shown below are some of the "jigs and/or accessories" I've built for the model table saw.
Like to see what everyone has done to make a job easier or more importantly safer.
 

I use a piece of basswood as a sacrificial fence when cutting a groove on the edge of a board.  Example shown next

This is the side of a 1/12th scale dresser and the edge dado or groove was done with the sacrificial fence for no damage would happen to the actual fence.
 

I use this jig to help hold small pieces down against the table when sawing.

Use this to cut thin strips of wood.

Everyone needs some sort of a push stick.  Getting to the point have to redo the end again.

My table saw sled.  Use this a lot for cutting stock down to length or I use a stop block for multiple cuts.

This one I use for making box joints for boxes or drawer construction.

Finger board to keep stock up against fence.

This jig I made to cut a taper on a table I was building.  1 degree taper. 

My first sled I built for the table saw and with this one I really use for multiple cuts.  I use a stop block on this mostly.  You can also do angle cuts by mounting a scrap block at the angle and then cut you piece.

Then lastly, has nothing to do with the table saw just added here to show a storage idea for different accessories for your tools.  These are for my Taig lathe but I've made others (similar to the 3 jaw chuck for holding table saw blades.
 
What do you have for jigs, accessories, or tool storage ideas??

I wish you could see the smile on my face Giampiero! You should slip a sleeping figure into one of the hammocks (out of site) for some future boroscope examiner to find.

I wanted to try something that is rarely seen on a model: hammocks:





 

a few steps forward:










 

internal planks and nailing:



 
scuppers:

some special, non-quality photos....

I finally finished the upper deck:
 

 

 

 

 

Some more done on these two parts.  I made the final pieces and drilled all of the required holes into them both.  The hawse holes are drilled at about 20 degrees.


Unfortunately I drilled the nail holes around the hawse hole at 90 degrees or if you like straight in.  So in these pictures they look correct but after milling the top to its final thickness it moved them off centre - Oh well these things happen.
 
So I fitted them onto the ship and also finished the scuppers for the manger.  I also thought it best that I protect the ship a bit at this stage so I gave the planking a light coat of shellac sanding sealer.



My next job is going to be making the beams for the forecastle deck.  I need to do this as I think my alignment of the bowsprit is slightly off.  Making the beams above the bowsprit partners will help me to see this.
 
Mark

I just posted my first impressions of the machine I mentioned above.
 
Mini Bench Drill Press
 
I haven't had time to do any real work with it..  I will try to follow up soon.

Ron Burns Topic about  a mini drill press got me interested in looking for something to replace my Dremel version which leaves a lot to be desired.
 
I went ahead with this one from Amazon which gives me the option of returning it hassle free.  It's listing now for $69.99.
 

 
There are several different vendors selling what appears to be identical machines, at different prices, with various accessory packages and minor construction differences.  

 
Here is an illustration showing the dimensions.  The head vertical travel is about 1 & 3/4  inches, which is plenty for my purposes.
The head can be swung from side to side using some lock down screws, which I will discuss further later on.
I think the size is going to be great for the modeling environment.  A much smaller footprint than my old Dremel set-up.
 
 

 
Here is mine with everything that was in the box.  I put the 3/8 inch drill there to give a little perspective to the size.
It weighs in at 3.6 LB.  (The product listing says 4.8 LB, but maybe that was with everything in the box plus the box ) Materials and workmanship appear 1st rate.  Shafts and head parts appear to be stainless steel, but the listing says something about the shafts being chrome plated something.  I guess the head parts could be aluminum, but it feels heavier than what I would expect for aluminum. Base is aluminum with a very smooth finish.  No rough edges or burrs on any of the parts.
No detectable play where it matters, so securing the work piece seems to be the main concern here.  I'm exploring some vise options.  The main challenge will be getting a decent vise that will work in the available space.
The ones I am looking at will cost as much or more than the drill press itself.

The red arrows point to the swivel lock screws.  The bottom one has a lever that is not shown in the Amazon illustrations.  It makes for easier adjustments, however the upper screw requires an allen wrench, which I feel is somewhat inconvenient.  They do provide a long screw with a knob on the end that I think may replace the hex head screw.  I don't anticipate using the swivel feature very much, but it would be important for someone who needs a bigger space than the table provides for the workpiece.
The blue arrow points to the travel limit adjustment screw.   Here is where I would want something more convenient to use.  I will be adding a longer screw with some kind of knob on the end for this adjustment.

The power supply says the DC out is up to 120 W at 5 A.   It is adjustable across a range of 12 to 24 volts.
Using an in-line watt meter I found the drill was pulling 10 W  0.19A at 12 v and 17 W 0.27A  at 24v, so the power supply should be more than adequate at even half the rated specs.
 
So, what happened when I powered it up?
I was very pleasantly surprised.  It is very quiet with no vibration that I can detect from 12 to 24V.
 
The specs on this at Amazon say 450RPM.   I don't have any way to measure it, but that seems low, even at 12 V.   The same machine under other vendors say 7000.  That number seems doubtfully high.
The label on the motor is all Chinese, but there is a number - 1750 - 3500, so that would seem more realistic for motor RPM.
The pulley arrangement looks to be a 2 to 1  reduction so that would be 875 to 1750 at the chuck.
I anticipate doing most of my work at 12V, but I'm ready to learn about where higher RPM becomes useful.
 
That all said, the torque seems to be very high. At 12 volts, I couldn't manage to stop the spindle with my fingers.  There was starting to be pain involved, and I didn't want to push it.
Maybe some good work gloves would make a difference, but I will leave that experiment for someone else.
 
How does it perform workwise?  I haven't got that far yet, but should be experimenting with different bits and materials in the next few days.
 
Meanwhile, I wanted to get this first impression  out there for those who are interested. 
 
I think one could spend a lot more than $70 and not get this level of quality.
 
That said, there can always be quality control issues, and some may have higher standards than I do, so I wouldn't buy it without a generous return policy.
 
 
 
 

Well, my new torch arrived and I must say that I was pleasantly surprised. It was securely packaged and arrived just 4 days after I placed the order. In addition to the torch itself, there were some very well illustrated how-to instructions and a plastic bag with three plastic accessory fittings to aid in the filling and/or emptying of the butane gas.
 

 
 

 

 

    The instructions are written with the inexperienced user (like me) in mind, pointing out all of the features of the torch and how to use them. Having only used a soldering iron previously, I appreciated that even things that more experienced users wouldn’t even think twice about, were things that were explained here.
This seems to be a very solidly built and rather stylish looking tool. It has a very stable chromed copper base, so concerns about tipping over are minimal. The metal gas tank has a built-in leak-proof inflation valve under the base that’s covered with a black diamond cut surface which makes it very easy for me to grip and stays cool to the touch.

    The business end has a long-angled and heat-resistant ceramic nozzle that helps to keep your hands safely away from the flame. It doesn’t come with butane gas (due to shipping restrictions), but it comes with those plastic fittings to allow filling from most commercially available butane gas bottles. Refilling the torch fully (8-11g) only took me about 10 seconds or so.
    The chrome plated copper piezo press ignition button made it easy for me to ignite a continuous flame and allowed me to use it one-handed. A flame mode regulator control, located just behind the nozzle, allows switching between 2 flame modes of either a tiny blue or a large yellow flame to control the heat. The manufacturer says that it can reach a maximum temperature up to 2,372oF (2372oC), but I’ll have to take their word for that as I have no way to measure that.
    There is also a fuel flow regulator dial on the side of the torch that allowed me to make additional flame adjustments. An additional safety feature is a cover that snaps over the fuel flow regulator dial which prevents the ignition button from being inadvertently depressed. It also came with a 2-year warranty.
    At this point I have experimented with it a little bit annealing some brass and soldering a few things and it does seem to be as good as advertised.

I am nearly done with the berth deck. Next I must start looking at the gundeck floor and keep building the hull.
 
 

The ceiling planking is completed.
Finishing was super easy and I'm happy with the resulting finish.
 
Final result with a natural light: 


 
Not as happy with the overall result. There are some mistakes in the treenail pattern, and some lines are not so smooth and fair on the photos.
Uneven treenails also bug me - even after finishing they look pretty different, some are much darker than the others. It looks like I used different wood and different diameter holes, which is not the case. Would never use bamboo treenails anymore, even if they are easier to make.
 
But luckily that whole area would not be so visible, so no re-do is necessary. I learned a lot from doing it and hope to improve when it's time to plank more exposed areas.
 
So now I'll spend some quiet evening time surrounded by books and plans, trying to make sense of the whole internal arrangement in the hold of the ship It's a real puzzle! As usual, Hahn plans are not so detailed, so I'm looking into various sources for the same period / type of ship and try to map it to the NMM drawing.
 

Its not just every part that is a reference of precision and accuracy, but also a superb photo setup!

Incredible build, how did I miss it before?   As usual - appreciate showing the build methods rather than the end result of each stage, learned a few tricks.
Very neat scuppers, so hard to make these tiny metal bits match the surface of the hull, but you did it nicely!

Some more done on Le Rochefort
 
Simple bases for the samson posts which are then fixed to the keelson.  The wood used is 1.4mm square 


The samson posts themselves - Although I had already carved one of these I pondered for quite a while how to machine them instead.  In the end I just carved them again and actually I really like the finished posts


Next I made the two beams that the posts attach too just to make sure that everything aligned ok.  A few pictures of the posts and beams dry assembled 




Now I need to think about the limber boards as once the hold deck beams are in place I think they would be quite tricky to do.  So those are my next jobs
 
Cheers Mark

Hatches - or should I say hatch frames first!  I've never made one of these before and it wasn't until I had a quick look at Adrian Sorolla's book that I realised that the joints are not plain mitred.  Looking at the plans too I could see how they needed to overlap so here's my first attempt and how I went about it.
 
Firstly I cut 6 - yes 6 equal parts (I always make mistakes) which were 4.8mm x 2.5mm x 36mm.  Its always good to have spares on hand

These then needed to be rebated.  The rebate is 1.1mm x 1.9mm and I don't know how everyone does this by I prefer the mill for short pieces of wood.  The reason being is if I use a parallel under the piece being cut I only need to set the cutter to depth once and then I get equal pieces.  I also get the piece as low as possible into the vice to stop any deflection as the end mill passes along.



Next I swivelled the vice around to 45 degrees to make the first corner cuts.  I know that the cut needs to be 1.1mm but I did this to 1mm so that I could finish it with a chisel if necessary.


Right this is where it gets a bit complicated - So decided to cut the two ends with the ears first (I'm sure they are not called that) 🤣  Using the already mitred end I cut a rebate 4.8mm in from that end at a depth of 1.25mm.  Once this was done I used the indexing on the cross slide to measure my finished frame length of 33mm and made another cut.  You have to allow for the diameter of the cutter doing this so from the 4.8mm rebate I moved the slide forward 31.8mm.


I then repeated the 4.8mm rebate on the other end and then simply cut the other 45 degree angle on the face sander.  Lots of words I know but they look like this when complete.

Next were the other two parts which I again used the indexing on the slide to get the correct length.  To cut the other 45 degree angles on these pieces I swivelled the vice the other way.

The finished 4 pieces look like this

Here they are dry assembled and I'm pleased with the way they turned out.


So it's not finished yet but I thought that this might help someone else.
 
Cheers Mark
 

Tobias and druxey I think you both make very fair points and it's not something that I had really thought about.  I quite like they way it looks and I know that once the shellac is on it will change the way that they look again.  In fact it will probably make the planks look a little separate but it will be subtle.  It gives me something to think about before the finish is applied so thanks for your comments 
 
Here's some more of what I've been up to - I've made up the two internal bulkheads which is another of those jobs which is easy to make and difficult to fit properly.
 


I like the small samson post on one of the posts which leads up to a hatch on the main deck

Like the pump well I had to make and fit the beams over the bulkheads to get a correct fit.  More dovetails to be cut!

Front and rear bulkheads fitted in place after quite a bit of fettling






And this is how she stands as of now


So my next job is to plank the two small decks before installing the bulkheads permanently.  I've got some shellac with a shine reducer in it that I will try under these decks before I fit the planks.
 
Thanks for all of the comments, feedback and ideas as it really does help me - Cheers Mark

Hi Mark it is once again a fantastic work. Almost a little too perfect, please excuse me I do not want to complain and hope you do not get it wrong. Your precision is so fine that you can't see the individual boards of the pump well and it looks like it is one big area. I know this too well, if I may suggest the following what I have already done in such a case is that I have slightly touched the individual boards to visually highlight the individual boards. Something like this:

 
 

You should place a small piece of paper with your name and  ship essentials so some future historian can "discover it" in 100 years. A couple of these have been found in contemporary Navy Board models and are of great historical significance.

small furniture: