bhermann

Here are some photos of the completed deck planking.
 
I have given the deck its first scraping and it looks pretty good so far. The last outboard planks on both sides are not glued in. The fit was good enough that once they fitted, I could not get them out to apply glue.
 
Russ
 
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 44 –Inboard members continued, Stern fairing and half-frame bolting.
 
Work continued on the iron strapping with some breaks to work on other things.  Other things included installing wood members over the strapped areas.  In the first picture a portion of the lower deck clamp is being glued to the frames.
 

 
The forward section of the upper deck clamp has been installed at the top of the strapped area.  As soon as the clamps are removed when the glue has dried, these members are immediately bolted through the frames with copper wire bolts epoxied all the way through the hole, making an extremely strong connection.
 
In the next picture a section of bilge ceiling is being installed.  These heavy members will fill the area up to the lower deck clamp.
 

 
There will also be a few strakes of bilge ceiling below the installed strakes.  The iron strapping will also be extended down to the floor heads.  The next picture shows one of these extensions.  The break in these straps will occur behind frames and will not be visible.
 
The next picture shows additional deck clamp sections installed, including forward sections of the middle deck clamp.
 

 
All these members are epoxy bolted as described above. 
 
Before progressing much further aft with the iron strapping, I wanted to get the aft half-frames bolted securely.  They have been held in place since installation only by the end-grain glue joints.  I did not want to risk breaking these with the hammering of the strap rivets.  Before installing bolts on these frames they needed to be faired.  This is easier before the copper bolts are in place.
 
In the next picture 80-grit sandpaper is being used on the feet of the cant frames to bring them flush with the deadwood.
 

 
In the next picture all of the cant and half frames have been faired at their feet. The cant frames, in their scores, end right at the bearding line line.  However, the half-frames are not installed in scores but bolted directly to the deadwood.  These were not faired to a feather edge at the line but were cut back to about a 3” thickness above the line.  The triangular gap was covered with planking.  It acted as a limber, or drainage channel, for water that would otherwise accumulate between frames and in the joints between the frames and the deadwood.  This feature was evidently not included at the feet of the cant frames. 
 
The next picture shows the feet of the half-frames being squared off above the bearding line.
 

 
There will be more to say later about the path of this water to the pumps.
 
With the model inverted it was a good time to fair the deadwood back to the rabbets in the keel and sternpost.  The next picture shows a shallow gouge being used to rough out the shape above the keel rabbet.
 

 
This can be risky if not done carefully.  In the picture the curl of shaving shows that the gouge is moving parallel to the keel using the pressure of my thumb.  I find that cuts go easier at an angle to the edge, slicing the wood -  and it is never a good idea to cut toward the rabbet.  The gouge is moving in the same direction in the next picture – held as in the last picture with the left hand, in this case pulled gently with the right – always with very light cuts.  Do not attempt this with a dull tool.
 

 
In the next picture a #0 cut riffler is being used to smooth out the gouge marks.  This was followed by 120 then 220-grit paper.
 

 
The last picture shows the feet of the half and cant frames after the sanding.
 
 
 
With the final lines of the frame bottoms established the bolt holes were laid out and drilled.  These are now ready for the bolts.
 
There is a lot more sanding to be done on the lower hull, but this much was sufficient to get the bolts in.  Now for the other side.
 
 Ed

As indicated, I am painting my metal fixtures with a sem-gloss enamel.  This is because #1, I have had very poor luck with chemicals I have tried, and #2 I think that the semigloss with give them a nice look on the finsihed model.
 
Here are a few straps drying before installation.  After they dry it will be easy to touch up.
 

 
Woody examines the foot ropes on the bow sprint.  I suspect he would like to be sure they are VERY secure.
 

Some rigging completed.  Put in a couple back stays.  The rest is temporary just to hold everything in place for now.  
 

 

 

Mitchell, this is a very good question.  I have posted on this earlier, but do not mind elaborating.  I have thought a lot about this because when I first started using liver of sulfur I was concerned about staining the wood or having stains suddenly appear later.  I started using it after finding that is is used in jewelrymaking - but jewelers do not often use wood..
 
Liver of sulfur is largely potassium sulfide along with some other similar potassium sulfur salts.  When dissolved in water it immediately hydrolyzes into free sulfur ions in solution.  These attack the copper, forming I presume, black copper sulfide on the copper surface. The active hydrolized solution lasts only a few seconds before it begins to neutralize to potassium hydroxide, giving off the sulfur as gaseous hydrogen sulfide in the process. (you will smell traces of it).  The hydrolyzed solution does not attack wood and seems to completely neutralize before it dries - leaving no trace - even when not washed off. The leftover solution turns white and when dry leaves a neutral white powder.  Anyway, this is my amateur chemist theory.  If there are any real inorganic chemists out there, please comment.
 
For the above reasons, the liver of sulfur solution must be used immediately.  Once it begins to neutralize its effect on the copper is quickly reduced to zero.  I make only a tiny amount of solution - usually just a few drops of water.  This also minimizes the H2S odor.
 
The blue blackening solutions work differently.  I believe they are solutions of a selenium salt which reacts with the metal to form a blue/black solution that dries on the metal.  Unfortunatey, as salts, they cannot be neutralized, only diluted through washing.  The residual salts and the blue/black solution formed in contact with the metal will stain adjoining wood.  I am convinced that a further problem is that the salts are hard to wash out of tiny crevices in silver soldered joints and over time may continue to react with the solder and form additional unwanted white/light deposits on the work - or actually cause the black to flake off.   I also suspect that the salts react with the tin or zinc in brass at the surfaces and if the process has to be repeated several times it no longer works - perhaps because the tin or zinc at the surface is depleted.  This is all hypothesis based on observations. 
 
Liver of sulfur works on copper and copper/phosphourus silver solder, but not on brass.  That is why I use copper whenever I can. 
 
Thank you, Guy.  I really did feel that it was either all or nothing with this.  Actually, as with most things, its getting easier and the results are better after some practice over the past day or so.
 
Now, off to blow more snow.
 
Ed

Everyone: I have managed to now complete the stern ornamentation on the Agamemnon (it has been easy when you have had 4 days of -30c). I found it went easier than planned. I had concerns that things wouldn't line up properly but I found out that if you took your time everything fit in nicely. For some reason I seem to have more room on the upper stern gallery so I took the liberty of adding some scroll work just to fill in the stern gallery.
 
My next step now is to get the catheads on the bow and then start working on gunport lids and then channels..
 
Enjoy the pic
 
Mike Draper
Whitehorse, Yukon
Canada

There is still a lot of rigging to be done on the main topsail. I also have to make final adjustments to the sheets and bowlines. Notice the main jack is still hanging loose and not in its final position.
 I even may have to 'fill' the sails some more.
But I will wait with that until the fore topsail is in place. It's going smoother, that's for sure.

At the bow
 

 
At the Mizzen
 

 
Lots of touch ups to go, but overall I'm pleased with the change.  At the work table in incandescent light or daylight, the ship takes on a much more realistic appearance.  Are we our worst critics?  Probably yes.  Will my grandchildren notice or care?  Probably not.   Cheers, Gil

PAINTED RIGGING OR "Doing it the hard way."
 
Hopefully most of you will never need or want this technique.  You will select the desired color and pre-treat the lines before embarking on the rigging process.  Having said that, when I began rigging the cannons and running rigging, I thought that the light tan or "natural" line from JoTika would work.  However, the more I progressed, the lighter it appeared.  In incandescent light and particularly in photos, it appeared white.  Playing with white balance and color editing in the camara and computer simply introduced unwanted color hues and tints.  Finally, when adding rope coils, the "white" took center stage and to my eye was not satisfactory.
 
I've likely bored many of you with attempts to match Manila or hemp with a paint wash to paint the rigging.  Why on earth mess up a pretty good model by painting the rigging????  Is anyone that dumb????      Well......................
 
Supplied "natural" line supplied by JoTika.  C/A applied on the left, untreated on the right.  However, the rigging appeared white.
 

 
Paint wash selected after experiments.
 

 
Masking to protect the deck.
 

 
Notice on the mizzen.  Starboard rigging has been painted while the port side is untreated.
 

 
Using a hook to separate the line from the yard.  Tiny brushes used at the deadeyes.  I found it necessary to change brushed frequently for they became gummy rather quickly.
 

 
The next posts show comparisons between the "natural" lines and the painted lines.

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 43 – Bilge Ceiling, Iron Strapping
 
Historical Clipper Note: A number of different structures were installed inside clipper ship hulls to increase strength and help defeat hogging, the most serious structural threat to wooden ships apart from rot.  Hogging is the tendency of hulls to droop at the ends.  It resulted from the reduced buoyancy at the ends of ships as the flotation area of the hull got smaller.  It was further aggravated by localized stresses as waves passed under the hull.  This was a particular problem in clipper hulls that were very long and had very fine lines fore and aft.
 
In addition to large keelsons, weight reductions at the ends, moving foremasts aft and some features discussed in earlier posts, additional structural members inside the hull were also used.  These varied from builder to builder.  These included massive additional keelsons in the area of the floor heads, various forms of heavy ceiling timbers, long diagonal wood “pointers” and ironwork.  From what we know of William Webb’s designs, he seemed to favor thick “bilge ceilings” – bands of heavy planking from below the lower futtock heads up to the lower deck clamps - rather than bilge keelsons or pointers.
 
An 8” to 7” thick bilge ceiling and iron strapping were the most likely combination used in Young America and that will be the configuration I will use on the model
 
After some deliberation – discussed in earlier posts – I finally decided to install the strapping on the inside of the frames.  Although this is not known to be the original configuration, it is most likely based on some references and Webb’ practice on other ships.
 
The strapping was installed on the frames under the ceiling planking.  Because installing the strapping requires some hammering on the frames to rivet the straps in place, I wanted to get a couple of ceiling strakes in place to make the frame structure stronger before beginning the strapping.
 
The first picture shows the first strake of the bilge ceiling being installed.  These are 8” x 8” members bolted through the frames from a few feet above the floor  heads decreasing in thickness to 7” up to the lower deck clamp
 

 
The strake being installed is at the heads of the lower futtocks.  This strake and the others in the band, follow the curve of these futtock head joints.  Fore and aft they converge under the lower deck clamp to form a sort of truss to resist bending of the hull.  This was definitely the configuration when bilge keelsons were used and it is likely the bilge ceilings followed this practice.  Once this line is set by the first strake the others above and below it will be installed.
 
The next picture shows a closer view of the bolting and one of the joint scarphs.
 

 
Copper wire bolts have been epoxied through the frames.  The dark area is isopropanol used to wash off the epoxy – not yet dry.  Epoxy will help assure that the wire will act as true through bolts.  In practice these were iron, so they will be blackened before final finishing.  The second bolt at each frame pair will be modeled using black monofilament.
 
The next picture shows the copper bolts coming through the frames outside.
 

 
These will be clipped off and sanded flush as part of the external fairing process.  It can be seen that the bolts come through the lower futtocks just below the heads.  I am considering leaving a few view ports on the exposed framing side of the hull.  The bottom of these open areas would be at the floor heads, so the bolted inside members should provide plenty of strength around the openings. The tops of these openings will probably be at the middle deck clamps.
 
With a stretch of ceiling in place I was anxious to try out some iron strapping. The first picture shows the installation of a test area.
 

 
I decided I wanted no part of recessing all these into the frames.  For the most part they will be covered with inboard planking and will only be visible between frames on the outside, through the view ports if installed, and down through unplanked deck areas.
 
The next picture shows a closer view of the straps and their fasteners.
 

 
I used .005” copper for the straps, cutting them to size with a paper cutter, and then stretching to straighten them.  I considered using .010” strips but these would require recesses.  The thinner material should not affect the planking glue joints.  Planks will also be bolted so should be quite secure.  The difference in thickness is virtually undetectable visually.  The actual thickness would probably be somewhere between the two sizes.
 
The straps are held in place by copper rivets - 22 gauge copper wire – some through and some partially through as “blunts”.  Like the real bolts, the heads are peened over to secure the strips.  I initially tried to get all of the intersections on frames for bolting, hence some uneven spacing in this first area.  I will not describe all the steps in detail – or the journey up the learning curve to get acceptable-looking straps.
 
These must of course be blackened before being planked over – to avoid glue spots that would interfere with the etching.
 
The next picture from outside the hull shows some strapping blackened using liver of sulfur solution.  This will be the predominant viewpoint for this feature.
 

 
This picture shows some inevitable crossing of straps between frames.  I doubt that I will try to rivet these intersections as was done in practice, except where they fall over a frame.  A few strapping rivet heads can be seen on the outside of the frames.
 
The strapping will be installed over the full length of the hull up to the upper deck clamps.  The next picture shows some correctly sized clamp material – for the lower and upper decks - temporarily held in place,
 

 
This shows the convergence of the ceiling and the lower deck clamp mentioned above.  The 7 to 8” bilge ceiling would fill the area below the lower deck plank and continue for a few more strakes below those installed in this picture.
 
The straps will be cut off above the upper deck clamp.  The strapping is fully extended forward in this picture.  The middle deck clamp will fall midway between the two shown.
 
I now foresee a considerable amount of strapping work, punctuated with some bilge ceiling and perhaps deck clamp installation.  Should be interesting.
 
 Ed

Build log part 6
 
 
 

here is a terribly bad and wrong glued together wreck of the 1951 version (Heller 1:150) Pamir Hull, built by unknown...., but I saved it from the bin. It Looks like it ran on to the rocks of Cape Hoorn, but never the less I was only after taking cross check with the own 1:96 hull dimensions. I even sold that hulk at Ebay afterwards to someone else and for the same reason.
By the way, the assebly instruction Manual of the Heller kit, for whoever is able to get an exemplar, bears amoungst other valuable information, beautiful Explosion typ drawings of all individual parts, a great help !
 

leaving open the last Planks came very Handy for clamping down the decks
 
 

started to begin with several cardboard templates for the belaying pin racks Arrangement.
It was my decision to put all the rig (static ad running ropes,lines, chords, stays, Tacklings, bracing tackle, etc...) in full functional way to the rig. I asume there is not a Feature not modeled in to this ship
 

here just a Little Trial model
 

important to fix the Counters on the bottom deck side, same Little model
 

in accordance with the handscetch a made before
 

some of the many pin racks, semiround brass edge on the rope wear side, wooden semiround on the other
 

These also take up the shrouds- and backstay fastening bolts as well as the many individual pins
 

all eyelets have sufficiant Counter Points beneath the decks
 

eyelets within the mastgarden racks
 
 
 
Build log part 7 to follow...
 
 
Nils

Masts and yards are coming together.
 

 

Finished my first set of rat lines, given the scale of 1:100, it was small to work with, however I struggled through it.

The main topsail has landed!
 
This was a bit tricky since there are two halliards, one on each side. The first part is looped around the topmast, comes down to the double block on the spar, goes back up to a block on the crosstree and then finally down to the deck. A bit of juggling.
I did this to hold the whole works in place for now. Next comes taking care of all those 'extra lines'.

But now I need a glass of sauvignon blanc to cool my nerves.

I've finally made some (small) progress on the build.  Progress meaning actually affixing parts to the ship, and not just playing around with aluminum cans.
 
After several days of cutting thin (0.5 - 3.0 mm) strips of aluminum, and embossing these with a ponce wheel, I finally decided to actually start fitting some of the better looking ones to the ship, starting with the inboard sheer strake to bulkhead riveting, and then the vertical reinforcements around the freeing ports.  One inboard port is done.

build log part 5
 
 
 

a good base for Fixing the poopdeck on
 

same for the midship high deck, on the "keel-spine" the counternut for one standbolt can be seen
 

bow bulwark planking also done vertical
 

the Forward main deck reaches well under the upper forecastle deck
 

Fitting vent tubes preliminary, to see if the frontside of poop bulkhead notches are adequate
 

here again the hull lines clearly to be seen
 

the decks are from 1,5 mm 4 layer aero plywood
 

handscetch for scaled heights of belaying pin racks and bulwarks
 

planking of poopdeck, with 1 x 3 mm Pitchpine (to be cleaned and sanded over later on)
 

length several lots of cut pre-bundled and clamped deckplanks pencil-charcoaled at their thin- and face edges only
 
 
 
 
Build log part 6 to follow....
 
 
Nils

Build log part 4
 
 
 

3/4 planking done
 

waterline with preliminary pencil marking
 

vertical planking of spherical round upper Stern portion
 

waiting for the glue to dry off
 

this is a great Moment, the ship has been lifted off the baseplate for the first time, Hull sanded over, all Looks OK. Prop and shaft claddings as well as ruddershaft fitted
 

meantime the stand with its three brass Posts has been made and fitted
 

Planks just before the decklines left open for enabling Access underneath to the decks when they get mounted
 
 

 

all bukhead heights brout to appropriate deck levels
 

The decks are in preperation already...
 
 
 
Build log part 5 to follow
 
 
Nils

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 42 – Internal Hull Work
 
With the hull framing finished it was time to step back and consider the right construction sequence going forward.  Rather than go to work fairing and sanding the outer hull as I has anticipated, I decided to focus next on some of the basic internal structural elements.  Installing some key internal longitudinal members will add a lot of strength to the frames, in particular the connections of the full square frames at the keel.  These joints are rather weak and may not stand up well to outside sanding.  In practice this joint was strengthened by use of a very heavy garboard strake (the plank next to the keel) that was bolted up through the floors and lower futtocks.  This 9” thick block was in turn edge bolted into the keel.  The garboard was a much more important structural member in these ships than the familiar 18C RN subjects.
 
The first step was to fair out the inboard sides of the frames.  The full square frames had been carefully checked for fairness before locking them forever into place when the keelson was installed.  The careful pre-beveling of the half and cant frames and the use of the topside ribband to set these resulted in a pretty fair surface.  A few had to be removed and reset.
 
The first picture shows the first sanding/fairing step using 120-grit paper and a “soft-sander” foam pad.
 

 
Once all the surfaces were faired out with the 120-grit paper, 220-grit was used to start smoothing the surfaces.  In the next picture a round piece of a soft-sander pad is stuck to a vibrating sander and it turn has some 220-grit paper attached to that – all with two-faced carpet tape,  A few different pad shapes were used. 
 

 
This was followed by 320-grit, using the same device.  There was also a lot of old-fashioned handwork with all this sanding.
 
In the next picture the wood is being given a final polish with #0000 steel wool.
 

 
I don’t like using steel wool very much – it leaves a lot of steel fibers lying around and this also adheres to steel tools.  But after years of searching, I have found nothing that polishes bare hardwood like steel wool, so I am using it here - #1, then #0, then #0000.  All the tools are cleared away before doing this and the shop-vac comes out frequently.
 
With the inside of the hull given its final polishing, the lines of the deck clamps were scored on the frames as shown in the next picture.
 

 
A thick pine batten was first clamped to the frames as shown.  The heights of the clamps were taken off the inboard arrangement drawing with the calipers shown below.  These will be familiar to those who followed Naiad.
 

 
To allow the measurements to be transferred to the inside of the hull a thin strip was taped on top of the original arm to fit through the frame gaps.  
 
The next picture shows the batten set at the height of the middle deck.  The lower deck clamps on both sides have been marked.  The upper (or main) deck clamps will be just below and essentially parallel to the temporary ribbands clamped to the outside of the frames.  When those clamps are installed, the outside ribbands can be removed
 

 
Removing the temporary ribbands and strengthening the framing with internal members will allow the outside of the hull to be completely faired and finish sanded from the keel up to the top rail.
 
In the next part members of the “bilge ceiling” will be installed below the line of the lower deck clamp.
 
 Ed

It has been a while and I need a refresher course about sail lines.
Here is the main topsail with all the running lines attached. They all have a port and starboard mate.

The leech and buntlines go through a small double block and that is why I show them together in one spot. You can see the small block on the right side. All of these lines, except the clewlines, go through a block that is attached to the topmast crosstree. I still have to install those. From there they go down to the deck in front of the sail.
The clewline goes through a block that is lashed to the spar (as shown) and goes down to the deck from there in the back of the sail. The bowlines go up forward to the foremast, and the sheets go down to a sheave in the main jack below.
 
Confused? I am glad I have the drawings handy.

I pretty much have to say that at this point my build of the Bluenose is finished.  There is nothing else I can do except put it on the shelf and admire the finished product.
 
All the pieces of the display case were cut at our community woodshop.  That kept all the sawdust out of my garage and house.
 

 
All the parts were tested to see if everything went together as planned.  I had to make a small adjustment to the groves in the base, but other than that it went together nicely.
 

 
Here is the finished build.  There really is nothing else to write down.  I will post some photos in the Gallery of competed models.
 

 
Note the nameplate holder.  The USB Flash Drive with my complete build log, resource material, and all photos is encased in the box built into the holder.
 

Having finally completed the Triton x-section, it's time to return to this, my first attempt at a plank on frame scratch build. It is the Tasmanian built barque Harriet McGregor from the plans by Harold Underhill, scale is 1:60. Originally started before Dry Dock Models was in operation, I lost interest in it due to the number of mistakes made in the earlier stages of construction that began to affect the build at the current point. The worst mistake: frame extensions above deck level should have been reduced in thickness prior to the waterway installation. I have done what I can to rectify this without pulling the waterways out (not practical), but will have to live with the consequences and work around the problem, hoping other small details will draw the eye from the larger inaccuracies. Having said all that, the model to date does bear a vague resemblance to the plans.
 

 
Grant.

build log part 3
 
 
 

am satisfied with the result so far
 

making thoughts about prop outcut and rudder blade Arrangement, corresponding to one of the various changes after 1951
For manouvering in Harbor Areas, in South American ond other bay Locations, shallow Waters, and in lack of wind, a 1000 PSi Motor had been built in, as well as a 2,5 m dia 2-blade Propeller. The other Major changes after 1951 I shall Point out later on
 

the coming planking will be so much easier if the stringers can be used as Counterparts to fasten the clamps. These stringers also give enormous strength to the planking itsself
 

all well under way now
 

here Comes the first plank (pine as Long as the hull 2 x 10 mm)for single layer planking.
I cut These Planks myself out of fine structure boards from the crafters. This hull shall also be plated later, so the 2mm thick planking provides sufficient thickness for smoothing down the outer surface well enough for the plating
 

thats partiall enough for the starboard side, pull up the port side planking now....
 

same Status from bow view
 

both sides planking is heading for the keel
 

Little propshaft mounted and 2-blade Propeller fixed (M3 thread)
 

this is one of the three foreseen standbolts, because this weakens the keel there have been wooden reinforcement claddings fixed to it from both sides within the hull
 
 
 
Build log part 4 to follow....
 
Nils

Build log part 2
 
 
 

working out and drawing the individual Frames in order to suit this build
 

each Frame gets its own 1:1 drawing on paper
 

rough cut out of the paper and fix on 4 or 5 mm thick plywood
 

an obligatory base plate is set up to Keep all in alignment and to get (and keep) the keelline straight during the further build
 

cut out Frames in preliminary set up, to see if all Frames are straking well
cross check, yes it Looks like Pamirs lines of the early hull
 

the model is being built keelside up, the Frames complete cut out, and the notches for the stringers done
 

all looks well so far
 

due to the fix on the baseplate all frames bear Surplus height, to bring (only interim, will be cut to suit later on)to the same level
 

like a strong man Needs a strong Backbone, I have arranged for a "spine" 20 x 20 mm square beam to reinforce the hull for taking on the induced tensile stresses of all the stay and shrouds spanning, working on the hull later on. I never regretted to do this...
 
 

well under way now, the stringers as well as the ships lines clearly to be seen now
 
 
 
Build log part 3 to follow...
 
Nils

Sailing ship, fourmast-barque PAMIR in scale 1:96


Introduction to this build log, by Nils Langemann


For modeling one of the famous “Flying P-Liners” of the last century, my choice fell on the PAMIR because that ship probably would be supported with most available information one can get in the appropriate media. Much has been written about the various owners, the crews,the routes, etc, and all this illustrated on the web, in literature, reports, photos, paintings and models in all qualities and scales, without here considering many various very good moulded plastic kit models.

Most of all was reported about the tragic loss in Sept. 1957 when the hurricane “Carrie” called for its tribute. 80 of 86 crew members, mostly young men, lost their lives after their ship had finally capsized and sank within minutes, southwest of the Azores islands of the Atlantic, this causing the to date largest and most intensive post WW2 international coordinated search and rescue operation in the civil marine history. Trust the older MSW members still remember the news-clips and film reports of the 6 wounded roughbeaten survivers and their pictures as they told their story, after being rescued from their broken lifeboat wreck-hulks and after several days ongoing struggle for life.

Most of the available plans for modeling the 1905 at Blohm an Voss built and launched Pamir, as well as many models exhibited in worldwide museums show the Pamir in all versions as she looked like before 1951, several changes in paint and slight modifications, acc. To the owner and nations and to suit its owners cooperate identity appeal had been made.

I was looking for an authentic plan of the version after the major changes at the Howaltswerke- Deutsche Werft, Kiel in northern Germany in years 1951 /1952, and after which the ship was under the Hamburg based subsiduary of shipping company Zerssen & Co, whereby the homeport was Lübeck. A couple of german shipping companies founded an association that together with Zerssen as the ship relevant managing part, enabled the training of young civil nautical and sailor-handcraft in a win-win situation for both trainees and shipping companies. The old well known Laeisz colour of the P-liners had been chosen again, and the ship, still being a trade cargo vessel under sails routed to South American ports around the Cape Hoorn performed many trips. At the same time the Passat, (today still afloat as Museumship in Travemünde near Lübeck, Germany) was also changed and appointed for same further activities.
The plan of performed changes was available and purchased from the Howaltswerke shipyard, and for the Frame/ Bulkhead plan I found authentic original Blohm and Voss drawings in a book of Hamburgs sailing ships 1795-1945, Author Jürgen Meyer. This model took me two years to build, and it is comprising about 1950 manhours modeling. More about design, preparing for the build, construction as well as information on the model will be given along with the Build log sequences as they are posted….
The already completed model 1:96, length 119,5 cm, can be viewed in my album, topic “Gallery of completed scratch built models”, Pamir 4-mast barque version as 1957

For all that also love these wonderfull squarerigger tallships, enjyoy and stay tuned to the build log….

Nils


I ca`nt realy say today how many log-parts in total it will take, it depends on how much interest the fellow MSW members shall have as to the extension of the individual build sequences. If the interest should be like it was with the Heinrich Kayser build log, it probably would be the "whole program"

Nils


here we go....

Build log part 1


I am lucky to have my own hobby-room office


These are pics of the proud and sturdy built Pamir which hundreds of nautic Trainees may have in good rememberance




in Sept 1957 came the shocking flash-News of the foundering of the ship, and also over the to date greatest post WW2 search and rescue Operation in civil marine history.
This frightning realistic pencil drawing by Artist Franz Richter Johnsen I feel is so emotional touching. It is showing the Pamir in its agony just before capsizing (masts down) and thereafter to sink within minutes. That was an indication that the hull must have been broken, otherwise it would certainly have stayed afloat some hours, even in that illfated position, and the S&R Groups could have made her out better


I was often asked what plan-drawings I had for doing this project, and would like to bring attention to two very informative books... (I am in no way associated with the authors or its Distribution)
There is first : Hamburgs Segelschiffe 1795-1945, author, Jürgen Meyer, can be found preferably at book antiquariates
it contains amoungst many other beautiful Tallships, copies of original Blohm + Voss Pamir plans.


The Basic Frame / bulkheadplan was used for my model


There is second : a relatively new publication, Die Letzten Flying P-liner, by Andreas Gondesen, who I consider as one of the best knowledgeable authors of the famous P-Liners, their History, as well as pointing out the differences between Pamirs several "Sister" ships, hardly known to the public.
The great benefit of this book is the wonderful accurate detailed large plan in poster Formate of the Pamir in scale 1:100, that comes along included with the publication. (it is representing the Version before 1951 though), but never the less a must for Pamir modelers


outcut from Gondesens Pamir plan


many handscetches had been made by myself, here only some examples


for those of you who know how good the extruded quality and precision of the Heller plastic Pamir kit and its moulds are in scale 1:150, I took the measurements for the various deckhousings from a wrecked plastic torso I found in a bin, and magnified these ratings to scale 1:96
Whoever does not know the Heller kit, please be advised, it is representing the precise Pamir Version of 1951 /1952 in top quality, but on a high skill Level

Together with a plan comprising all the changes to the Pamir from Howaltswerke Deutsche Werft in Kiel, I was ready to get my project under steam at last......


Build log part 2 to follow...

This past week, I got a little more decking done and I also added the rubrail along the sides of the hull. This is a 1/32" square piece that follows the line of the planking.
 
Questions and comments welcomed.
 
Russ