Eddie

Hey howya goin Tecko mate, I can't see why not as long as there is a ship been built in it to if there is no ship been built in the thread you can do the diorama build in the Shore Leave thread thats where we do other build logs that haven't anything to do with ships been built.

Welcome back to MSW! Hopefully this time around you will be able to fully enjoy the hobby. Best of luck to you on your build of the Bounty. I would recommend checking some of the great build logs of her on here for some ideas and guidance and then start up your own log so we can follow along and be there when you need help. Again, I wish you good luck and I look forward to seeing your build!  

Hey howya goin mate, welcome

Ok...a very productive weekend!  I feel like I'm back in business and making good progress.
 
I rebuilt the chain plates that were lost a couple months ago, and got them installed, then moved on to the anchors.  I made some notes back when I built the catheads about how the anchors were going to be hung from the side of the ship.  I found a great drawing on page 399 of Chapelle's The American Fishing Schooners 1825-1935.  Those notes ended up driving how I set everything up.  I might have made some choices that are not actually correct, but the layout I ended up with made sense to me, so I ran with it.  (Of course, I know nothing about how ships actually worked...never learned anything about ships until I started building models.)
 
As many do, I left the starboard anchor disassembled and on the deck.  I cleaned up the cast metal anchor pieces and painted them black.  I made the tapered wood 'bars' from some 3/32" square stock and stained them to match the other wood on my ship.  I saw in the plans that sometimes the anchors were attached to chain, other times attached to rope, so I went with rope.  I'm using some of the rope from Syren Ship Model Company that I ordered a while back (I ordered a full set of replacement line for all the stuff provided in the kit).  Even though this anchor will be left disassembled on the deck, I added a little black rope to the 'bar' so it wouldn't look quite so bland.  A little bit of extra rope was left coiled up.
 

The port side will have the anchor hung from the rail.  I started by using some chain to secure the end of the anchor to the anchor pad.
 

Next, I made a chain/rope combination like I saw in the drawing I found.  This has a hook one end of the chain, with the other end of the chain secured to some rope.  The hook will go into the cathead.  The chain will loop through the ring on the anchor, then swing back up so the rope can go through the sheave on the cathead.  The rope will then be tied off on the belaying pin next to the cathead.
 

This was hooked in place, the used to secure the anchor to the cathead.  
 


I'll add a rope coil to that belaying pin later when I'm adding final details.  Obviously these little catheads don't have actual sheaves, so I just ran the rope over the end of the cathead.  
 
I ran the anchor's rope through the hawse pipe, wrapped it around the winch, and left a little extra rope coiled on the deck.
 

While I was at it, I went ahead and installed the chain box, and filled with some left over chain.
 

So, I'm now done with chain plates and anchors.  All I have left before masts are the dories, which should be fun - kind of like little mini-builds in themselves.  I'm excited to back at it, and looking forward to getting those dories going during the upcoming three-day weekend!
 

 
 
 

NOTE: Solved

Anyone know about how high the bukwarks should be above the deck? Following the practicum thus is the template i have right now.

Having trouble with the bulwarks of the Bluenose II. I have a template made by taking a rubbing of the top plank through a sheet of cardstock (thin). by pressing againsi the top plank i got an impression and was able to draw a line over it. Yet after i cut it out it still seems a bit wrong. I managed to fit the template onto a bit of basswood that was expendable. Am I right that this piece should be 10mm wide? I think so. My main problem is that i have the curve right but at the prow the bulwark wants to twist out away from the ship. The deck overhangs the top plank a bit and causes this twist. So is this the way it ought to be? Picture is worth a thousand words and all that.

Phil,
 
Check online.  You can then order (if in stock) and they'll pull it and have it waiting for you.  However, if they're really busy it may take them several hours.  But just check online first as it might save you a trip.
 

Yes I checked it out and a 9/16th Forstner bitt should do the trick.I will go to Lowe's tomrrow and see if I can buy one.

I have found inlaying them slightly does several things, if fitting tightly to the base of the brackets, it looks great and second, it provides a tiny bit of more support overcoming the slight slop of the screw through the bracket, and lastly, it also allows you to add epoxy under the bracket attaching the bracket to the base.

I wonder if I should get a forstner bit and inlay the brackets into the surface.

Nice job. Looks like a necessary fitting to me, you get no complaining from me for placing your routed and fitted Base here.

Not sure if this is the right section,but I purchased abd routed the display base for my AL Herminoe.

Fantastic Steve, thank you very much - as they say 'A Picture's worth a thousand words'.  As a fisherman myself I'm totally with you on the block tying.  I think I will ignore the Constructo instructions and use thread (or at least I'll have a go)
Thanks again
Nigel

Amazing work, Steve. Your rate of progress is also impressive. Like your use of the lead putty knife - very appropriate for constructing galley windows!
 
Cheers,
 
Graham

Building the gallery window frames first off I hade to capsize the ship ,this is not a problem as all the parts are glued and pinned in position ,you cant notice from the pictures but I have the stand pinned to the bottom of the ship this was because in my first build when it got to rigging etc if I wanted to move the ship I needed a second stand as the ship becomes difficult to lift with one hand and move stand to new location with the other hand this way I can lift the ship with both hands and the stand follows along
 

 
I took a rubing of the window apertures and taped this to a board with some clear double sided tape over my picture then I was free to build the window frame structure
after sanding I test fitted then painted prior to fitting you can also see how I plan to add the yellow to the red arched shape piece
 
and lastly I would like to thank you all for the likes and comments I love to see that little notification button lit red but earlier today this just blew my away thank you all so much
 
steve

Christian,
I can only try to answer your questions based on what I learned doing the Naiad drawings and from reading (and rereading, and rereading) Steel and the Repository on preparing drafts.  These texts are virtually identical.  As I understand the process for placing cant frames, it is as follows - in my words:
 
1.      Determine the number of aft cant timbers (pairs)between the fashion piece and the last square frame.
 
2.      On the half breadth plan set the aft edge of the forward section of the fashion piece (the aftermost cant frame) on a line from its joint face on the end of the wing transom to a point on the deadwood.  This point on the deadwood must allow just enough space aft of the last square frame to fit the inside ends of all the cant frames.
 
3.      This line is usually the joint line between the forward and aft parts of the fashion piece pair.  The aft section of this frame normally fits under and supports the wing transom.  On larger ships there may be more fashion pieces aft of this pair.
 
4.      On the half breadth plan, from the above line, set off equal spaces on the maximum breadth line to the joint line of the last square frame – one for each cant frame pair.
 
5.      Set of the same number of spaces on the deadwood.
 
6.      Draw in the lines of the cant frame pairs between these points and the points on the deadwood.
 
7.      Individual frames of each pair are then placed on either side of these lines so as to provide air space and to accurately define the sides of gun ports in the cant frame area.  On multi-deck ships, some jogging of the toptimbers may be necessary - as with square frames at times.
 
8.      By locating the sides of the ports from the sheer plan, the frames on either side can be accurately place on the half breadth plan.
 
9.      The cant frames can then be lofted by taking dimensions to waterlines along the cant frame faces.
 
The forward cant frames are drawn in the same way once the forward fashion piece is placed at the aft edge of the hawse timbers.  Care must be taken to eave adequate space along the deadwood to seat all the frames.
 
Another way of looking at this is to set the joint line points on the half breadth at the intersection with the numbered frame lines.  Some of Steel’s examples show the lines intersecting these points.  Both methods give very similar results.
 
As far as timberheads are concerned, I believe these were normally formed on the heads of the toptimbers that were left longer,  above the top of the side – for strength.  I would not be surprised to see anomalies on the drafts.  It would not be the first I have seen.
 
I hope this is helpful.
 
Ed

Thanks druxey. That sentence helps me a lot. I hope now, that I can finish the drawing until this weekend.

@Ed
 
Thank you. I use also the waterlines of the half breath plan. I am sure that's a lot more work to draw this manually because it was more than enough work with my CAD.
 
 
You're right. But it made a lot of fun to do this exercise.
Also I had some points I want to check with the drawing. On the Half Breath Plan were only the positions and angles of every second cant frame given. I wanted to check the reconstrction of the other cants. What's with the position of the gun ports? WHich cant frames do I have to shift? Is every timberhead given in the Sheer and Profile drawing on top of a frame?
 
If I compared the position of the timberheads given in the Sheer and Profile of Fly and in the DOF plan of Cygnet, I found some alterations, for example at the fore cants. I wanted to check the consequences for the frame design.
 
@druxey
I've checked the position of all timberheads of the Sheer and Profile drawing and my reconstruction again. At the after cant frames I found two timberheads whose position do not really match with my cants. The position of the other four timberheads is ok.
So I think to change my design will not solve the problem.
What do you think is the better solution? To move the timberhead or to add a timber between the frames and not to change the position.
 
@all
Thanks for your interest and hints, which I really appreciate.

Christian: The old-timers used both methods to get the timberheads in the positions that they needed them. As master shipwright, you need to make those decisions based on what makes the most practical sense.

Hello Cristian,
 
Very nice drawings.  Getting the correct shape for the cant frames in the sheer plan view can be tricky business.  Did you approximate these or use the actual profiles for this.  The process I use for this is to construct the cant frame profile using waterlines along its line on the half breadth plan.  Compressing the horizontal breadth of the cant frame profile to the fore and aft distance from its intersection at topside to the intersection point on the deadwood then yields an accurate shape in the sheer plane view.  These sheer plane views are mainly for aesthetics, but constructing them is an interesting exercise in 2D CAD - even more interesting if you are manually drafting these.  A similar process can be used to accurately represent the shape in the body plan.  I found this helpful in lofting hawse timbers.
 
Lovely work.
 
Ed

Thanks for the Likes and comments
 
@druxey
Hopefully yes, but I will check this again and add them to the drawing. There is one timerhead, which was also shown on the Cygnet drawing that is positioned between two frames.

Your drafting so far looks very nice, Christian! Do the timberheads on the forecastle line up with those toptimbers?

Today it rained all day, so I had enough time to finish the design of the cant frames





The Bollard Timbers and Hawse Pieces are missing to complete the planning of  framework.
The individual components and the frames I'll draw later during the build.

Next, the construction of the two-stage slipway is on the ToDo list, then I can lay down the keel for the model.

Im  surpised  when i saw  your first steps it looked like a turtle shell ,but on your next photoes ,soon after sanding it looks beautiful 
Im impressed about your building method . 
 

Im pulling a chair closer you
Look forward to your next update