42rocker

The May issue of the MSB Journal is now available at http://www.modelshipbuilder.com/news.php
 
Table of Contents:
 
Tidbits from the Past
Model Ships of the Royal Museum Greenwich
Shipwrecks of the World
Framing of a Hull—Part 3
Historical Naval Shipyards
HMS General Hunter Proto-type Model—Part 1
The Book Nook
Badges: Heraldry of Canadian Naval Ships
Gene’s Nautical Trivia
 

Speed and looks great also.
 
Later Tim

Much thanks Tim
 
But that's not the correct work area because I made the photos before a little exhibition. The correct work area is not so tidy.
The model below is the HMS Leopard.

Thanks Richard.  I'll be using the ones bundled with the keel, stem, and stern parts.  I compared them and both sets came out the same, just that the ones with the keel is more detailed with the beveling lines and so forth.
 
Now for a few progress pics...  Got the fore cant frames raised.  Now I'm off with the hawse frames, following Daniel's method in his log.  Thanks for that by the way, Daniel.  Doing a test set first with some scrap pine I had laying around to work out everything and so I don't waste the mahogany. Take care guys and happy modeling!
 




 

Greetings to all,
Another minor update to my Triton but update just the same. I know that it’s been a while since my last update due to the fact that I went on vacation to Puerto Rico (which I might I add I enjoyed immensely).  Upon returning, I decided to tackle the starboard side gangway with its wooden brackets. Upon completion of the gangways, I then made and added the ladders to each gangway and finished it off the gangway with simulated treenails. If you note, there is a height on the aft QD from the gangway that I find to be too high for a man’s natural step. I will add one step at the base of the QD’s beam in order for a man to step naturally from gangway to QD. I have also finished the entry steps to both sides of the Triton, added each side’s fenders, and also added the brakes to the ship’s cistern system.
The next thing on my agenda is to make and install the QD rails, add the skid beams, work on the mast, make and install the lower hold’s platform ladder, and add barrels and ballast. I know that there is still quite a few items left to work on but I figure that if I make a temporary checklist in order to be sure that I tackle the main items, I won’t get to the end and realize that I missed something.  

Looking very nice. Your work area looks great also. What is the model down below?
 
Later Tim

Thanks Tim!, slowly getting there! Doing the stain on the wheels and some mock-up assembly just to see the over all look. Still need to slot the bottoms of the sides for the axiltrees to sit correctly.  Pinning the wheels just to add some looks to em!
 
AL
 

 

 

 

Hi,
here the photos of the current progress. It's halftime of the frame build

Some parts for the cannon carriages are cut. Made from 1/4" Red Oak.
 
AL
 

 

Drilling the front Axletrees.  First using a 1/8" for a pilot hole then the #14 drill bit.  To a depth of .400" approx. I put white out
on the bits to show me the depth drilled, since my electronic depth gauge has dead batteries again..... always when I need it, its batteries are dead!!!   
 
AL
 

 

 

 

 
 

Looking Good, like the planking. Enjoy
 
Later Tim

Nice work and nice sled. Seen several sleds for the big table saws. Nice to see this one for the "hobby" saws.
 
Later Tim

So some more pictures...I have been busy on a job but try to work a bit every day on the Triton.
 

 

 

 
I am pretty much at this point fairing the inside, adjusting frames and adding the gunport sills.
 
Here I am fairing the inside using and old plane iron both ends work well.
 

 

 
Measuring the sill height from the frame plan I printed our and taped together, the rueler across the bottom in my Drywall T
 

 

 
I need to put a new outside support (riban) for the frames then I will start build the lower deck
 
To be continued:

I wanted to upload some more pictures but need to shrink them down  to meet the 2K size so I will post them later.
 
Below is pretty much where I am at now
 

I have had a couple of queries with regard to my Byrnes saw sled so I thought I would give some data on this.
 

 
I originally cut some wood strips that fit into the saws slots.  Not too tight or loose, just right.  I then grabbed a piece of thin plywood and glue tacked it onto the wood strips while they were on the saw.  I tried to get everything as squared up as possible but this wasn't critical.
 
When dry I ran the blade through the first third of the plywood.  I then glued the top block onto the plywood (which held the now slightly separated pieces together).  Then back on the saw and cut almost through all the plywood.  Now attention to detail is critical.  I affixed the back block using a square to insure it was ABSOLUTELY 90 degrees to the now visible cut mark.
 
Once dry I run a clean run all the way through the plywood which adds the cut mark to the blocks also.  That pretty much sums it up.  As I have said previously, I use this almost every time I work on the model.  I need to cut anything at a 90 degree angle, it is done on the sled.  Any other angle I also use the sled with appropriate hold downs.  I consider it very safe and very controlled.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

Thanks for all the kudos, looks and likes!
 
Grant - for most of the ideas you have picked up here, I can probably refer to other builds where I snagged them.
 
Tim - I don't know if I am as good as lucky!
 
As i thought about the forecastle it became obvious two things had to happen first.  I had to pry off the top level outer planks since they were sanded down slightly more than they should have been and replace them.  Not too hard and easy to do.
 
The second was the railing had to be done now (or a factor of 10 in hardness later).  This was a half height railing (would not conform to OSHA standards) of five posts.  For strength I opted to mortise them into the deck beam.  After all the planking is attached I will attach a cap piece running the length of the beam to cover the end of the planks as well as most of the generated mortises.
 
First order of business was to generate five posts that had some carving done to their tops as well as a plank shelf running the length of the railing.  I cut a notch around the post for the 1/32inch shelf to slide into for support and maintain constant height.  To do this I always like a jig:
 

 
Once the post work was done I cut the post to half width where it connected with the deck beam using my Byrnes saw.  I always use a sled that I have built if I am not ripping down lengths of wood.  The whole sled moves with everything else anchored.  Very solid, very safe and easy to make several accurate cuts on different pieces of wood.  A micro-chisel was used to smooth down any bumps left by the saw blade.
 

 
I then attached one post at a time, starting from the center.  I also doweled the mortised section into the deck beam.
 

 
After each post was affixed I used a piece of oversized wood for the shelf and cut the slot for the post into the shelf.  This allowed one slot to be focused on at a time which was easy as opposed to five at the same time.
 

 
Working outwards it didn't take too long to get all the posts in and the shelf fitting snug.  Then I simply cut the shelf down to size lengthwise and width wise.  An important item to remember was that the deck planks have not been attached (so that size needs to be accounted for).  When I put the railing on the ship I put down a couple of pieces of plank thick wood for visual comparison.
 

 
I will add small pieces of wood to fill the gaps in the shelf behind each post.  This system worked out a lot easier than I had thought and I feel much more confident on the railing work on the stern now - which is a good thing.  Lots of ways to do things, but this worked for me.
 
Next up is the mast partner and then the catheads.
 
Stay building my friends,
Mark

I do have one more bit of progress to pass on to you.   I would have posted this,  but this was when the site went down.....believe it on not.....so this is fairly recent.   I had ordered a grate kit from the place where I had ordered the 3.5mm deadeyes for the Gothenborg.  it was taking so long to get them,  I canceled the order.   while I was waiting though,  I thought about how many of those kits I would have to order...and the cost involved.  I decided to try and make them.  I bought two packages of 1/16 square stock and cut them into short lenghts.  with just a tiny bit of cement on the ends,  I cemented ten of them down onto a small piece of wood,  spacing them equally {1/16 wide}.   placing another layer on top of them, spacing them the same way,  they form a cross - thatch pattern.





 
third row
 

 
fourth row
 


 
fifth row
 

 
I was running out of the strips......and only half way as high as I want to go.   the only recourse at this time,  would be to cut this in half,  fit it together the best position possible,  and glue it together.   so, I finished with what I had and did just that.
 




 
when this was dry,  it was sliced into wafers.   they will be sanded flush,  making them thinner in the process.   there were some of the tiny pieces that broke free.   they were repaired and set aside to dry,  I would just pick up another one and work on thay one in the meantime.
 


 
for some reason,  I got eleven of them........I thought I'd only get ten.   a bonus.

4 each rear carriage Axletree's completed. Red Oak & Poplar dowel.
 
AL
 

 

 

 
 
EDIT: 
How I made em..... After cutting the Red Oak to size on the Byrnes mini-table saw..... WOW!!! That saw can cut down to .001" if you can measure it to set it up!!! I then took the blocks to my HF mini-metal milling machine and stood them up in my precision vice so they were exactly 90 degrees from horizontal, scribed the center point in the end of wood block where the dowel goes using my dial indicator, then very carefully drilled a #14 (.182") hole at that center point about .300" to .400" deep. Not all the way thru!! Then did a flip over and drilled the other end using the edge of the vice as the reference point for the oak block. It didn't matter if each hole depth was different because I inserted the dowel afterwards and marked the finished length on the dowel, removed it from block and cut the dowel using my little hand saw to the length for that hole. Then I put a small dab of yellow glue on the end of the dowel and carefully inserted the dowel into the hole, taking care not to smear any glue on the wood block because I'll be staining the wood later and the glue blocks the stain.    

Got the frame work started for the lower deck. I still need to make and install the ledges and knees. Right now I have it fitted to the hull, but will glue it in once the frame is complete. The deck planking will be done with some nice maple that I have and then I think I will move on to planking the outside hull up to the wales.

Your website is great. THANKS for sharing as much as you do.
 
Later Tim

You did a great job. Thanks for sharing everything with us.
 
Later Tim

Hi All. Well the infamous "set up"   has been completed and I finally got my lazy
butt in gear and took some pictures of the finished bomb vessel.  
 
It has been a great "little" project that I had a lot of fun with. I hope you enjoyed it too.
 
Thank you for all your comments and likes. It means more than I can express.  
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
 

Thanks Augie, Ben and Paddy.
 
Well I'm barreling down the home stretch and speaking of barreling I have mounted the barrels
to their carriages and will be putting them in place once I'm back in town.
 

 

 
Thanks for stopping by.

Thanks Tim..... We got the ship's weather watch going 24 hours here and the hatch's are battened down, expecting more foul weather this evening to head our way!
 
Meanwhile I've been doing some sanding on the cannon ends getting them ready to glue the two parts together. 
 

 

 
 
AL

All of the forecastle beams are in place.  The hanging knees and lodging knees are installed.  Any suggestions are appreciated.  pictures are included.