Craigie65

Cheers, I never know until they go on sale.
 
The last time I did an 18-gun brig was 25 years ago, so I wanted to make sure this one's a little more special and not a rehash of what I have done before. I do try to implement stuff I have thus far learned from previous designs, and also take on board constructive criticism of certain aspects. Harpy will be the latest iteration of that learning curve - plus I wanted to do this little fighter justice, being the longest served of her class and the most widely travelled, in action from the French Revolutionary to the end of the Napoleonic Wars. Plus she has great lines, being not nearly as 'Flat' as the Cruiser Class, but more like an much larger Speedy Class, lines wise.
 
When I started this, my first stipulation to myself was that I wanted to include a stove. This meant that I would need to show the lower deck, so the model also has scale upper deck beams (4mm thick pear) and adding more lower detail, which does increase the material count by quite a margin.
 
The deck planking pattern is actually copied from an original copy of a Cruiser Class deck plan, which includes the deck planking lines. As per usual now, anything directly glued to the inner and outer bulwarks have slots for their respective positions, eliminating the need to measure where they go, and because they are slotted as well as glued, the channels and pin racks are very strong and secure. I did make one change from the original plans, and that was to add stern davits, as I have a painting of her showing these, and I have no doubt these would have been added at some point in her long career. I will include at least one 3-d printed cutter, perhaps two, one for the deck and one for the stern davits. (Modeller can always leave the stern davits off, if they so wish)

As I said at the start, I have no idea how this will sell, but I certainly didn’t want to simply produce yet another run of the mill kit with just bulkheads, keel and upper deck, like the ones I did 25 years ago - no fun in that. This will be my 17th and final kit for this year. Jim will be doing a build log for this later this year - I still have much to do before then, though.
 

I was hoping to complete the first planking before I had to put this project aside in order to do my yearly video projects, but it looks like I am just to slow to make that happen.  So here is the current state of play:

 

Stealers to be added aft after the planking is complete.   I expect to resume in mid July.  Meanwhile I will follow all the great Sphinx builds which abound on this site.
 

Yard Production
Time for a quick update. Over the last few days I have been making the various yards required for the Indy. This is still very much work in progress. As I am also watching the live broadcast of the Post Office Inquiry hearing my time in the shipyard is much reduced.
 
My progress to date is as follows:
a) All the various rigging blocks required for all the yards have been prepared and are ready to be added
b) All the various PE parts have been gathered and chemically blackened.
c) All the fore yards have been completed. The main foreyard has been installed and the fore topsail and topgallant yards are ready to be installed
d) All the main mast yards have been shaped and are ready to be painted and fitted out with the rigging blocks, PE parts and cleats.
e) Dowels for the mizzen mast yards, boom and gaff have been cut to size and are ready to be shaped.
 
The following is a picture of my Indy with the Fore and Main yards attached.

The next two pictures show the fore topsail yard pinned on the mast but not secured.

The next picture shows the fore topgallant yard pinned in place but not secured.

The following two photos show the mainyard pinned in place

Next two photos show the main topsail mast pinned in place.

The final photo is the main topgallant yard pinned in place.

Post 4
The launch is completed.
 
The only modification to the provided kit is a replacement for the rudder.
I have also added the following:-
Lifting rings to the keelson.
A cap square for the mast
A brass etch grapnel from the Indy kit.
A turning bar to the windlass.
I have also utilised the boat chocks from the Indy kit to support the hull.
This has been an enjoyable little project and I am pleased with the result.

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Below is a comparison with the wooden 24’ Launch I made for Sphinx.

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Both versions in my opinion look good and I think they represent the best available options at this scale.
 
The Resin/wood combo is a good match and almost fools the eye into thinking the whole is a wooden construction.
For those who may prefer to avoid the time and frustrations that can arise building the wooden versions, they are an excellent choice.
 
The wood versions have a slight edge for build match with the Main ship medium, and perhaps give a greater satisfaction in successfully completing these tricky little kits.
 
I don’t think I would mix resin and wood boats on the same build, but I am happy to consider either to enhance the ship kits.
 
You pays your money and takes your choice.
 
 
B.E.
26/05/2024
 

sorry about the lack of photos, and words and the general lack of discussions i have with followers, in hindsight i should have thought more about the log, as it was a free review kit, apologies 
i was going to use a Vanguard Models ships boat, but then removed it to keep in the build as a OOB theme, But i did replace the Metal Tyres with those for a 1/35 tank transporter set, i also used my own rigging thread, the kits was to fluffy for my liking
 
here are a few more photos to take her to the end of the build
 

Sunny weather in the UK (until the last few days) has not been so conducive to boat building. 
 
I’ve made the masts and bowsprit, they’re not glued in position yet, so may not be properly aligned. Still to add any blocks or deadeyes to them, that’s the next job I find squaring off the dowel at the tops for the masts and topmasts quite difficult, I just use a vice, file and sandpaper, I’m not sure if there’s a better method?
 
I’m also clumsy and keep snapping off the top of the topgallant masts - both now reaffixed with CA glue. 

There’s two types of PE eyebolts in the kit, larger PE-15 for the outside of the hull and smaller ones PE-14. I don’t think there’s quite enough of the larger eyebolts for the outside of the hull so I checked with Chris and he said fine to use the smaller PE-14 eyebolts there too. I ran out of eyebolts after completing the hull and before adding those needed to the masts and bowsprit. I’m not quite sure why, I’ve gone back and counted all the PE eyebolts required on the plans including the shortage of the larger eyebolts and by my reckoning I should have had enough between the two types. I must have lost more to the carpet monster than I thought!
 
I contacted Chris and he very kindly sent me some more eyebolts. Such incredible customer service and hugely appreciated. Thanks again. 

Log #86: The Cat Falls & Topgallant Backstays
I continue to pick away at a bunch of outstanding lines and small projects on the model. I tend to work on whatever inspires me in the moment from my list of potential tasks.
 
First up on this list were the topgallant backstays. Now it is not clear to me if these actually would have been fitted on alert and in some logs people have decided to omit them. Steel does include them in the list of ropes, but that is a bit later, but they don’t appear on the hawk and this is another case of Goodwin’s commentary not matching his drawings.
 
In the end I decided to include them as this is the arrangement both the kit plans and Goodwin depict and I have already somewhat committed to following them up to this point. Also I feel the top of the model looks somewhat “naked” if the topgallant stays are not included.

Steel calls for 2 in rope which equates to 0.32mm diameter at our scale. I used 0.35mm rope seized with fly tying thread. The kit depicts these stays simply tied on to the channels. Goodwin is not clear on how they are attached. I decided that I would treat them in a similar manner to the running backstays, just hook them onto the channels.

I also decided that I would start work on the cat falls. Steel calls for 12in double block which equats to 4.8mm at our scale. I decided to use a 5mm block. To make the blocks I scratch built the hooks using the brass pins from the kit and the iron strapping was done with the black paper in the kit.

I then painted all the iron in a similar manner to how I painted the ironwork on the anchor.

The rope is stated to be 3in cir, 0.38mm at our scale. However, I decided to round up to 0.45mm for the rope. I felt the 0.35mm rope looked a bit small compared to the 5mm block and I wanted to differentiate these slightly larger ropes from the other smaller ones near them.

I have not decided quite yet where to tie off the cat falls so for the moment I have it wrapped around one of the posts for the swivel guns.
 
And here is the current state of affairs (taken before I attached the cat falls).

Little update.
 
I will soon have a new 24 and 26-foot launch for sale later today. These have 3-d printed hulls, windlass and stern davit, and a 0.8mm pear laser cut sheet containing knees, thwarts, oars etc. Both in 64th scale for now.
 
I have also commissioned a 22- and 24-foot cutter, 22-foot yawl, 28 and 32-foot pinnace and another launch, so ultimately, I shall have complete pre made hull sets (along with the laser cut wood parts to go with them) for all of my kits, including future developments, as an alternative to the plank on bulkhead versions.
 
Also almost ready are the new Nelson figures. This will be available in 72nd, 64th, 48th, 32nd and a few in 1:16th scale. These have a separate base.

I made the top by laminating two layers of 1/32” basswood sheeting, each at 90 degrees to each other.  The kit will have a plywood template to trace the shape onto the basswood.  This gave the correct thickness and added strength.  On a real ship, the top was made up from tongue and grooved wood slats.  I drew the edges of the slats onto the top with a #11 blade. 

The top’s rim was made next.  I used template to trace the curved section onto sheet basswood.  The rim overlaps the edge of the top so draw another line onto the basswood 3.5” outwards from the first line.  I made a second template by outlining the top and drew another line 3.5” inwards from the edge of the template on the curved edge and both sides.  The template was trimmed at the inner line (see arrow below) and positioned on the basswood sheet 7” inwards from the first line.  This gave me the shape of the curved part of the rim.
  
The rim was glued onto the top and weighted down until dry. 

The front edge of the rim is raised.  I used a 3 mm chisel to remove one-third of the thickness of the rim.  If you do not have a chisel, you could use a sanding stick to shape the rim.  The inner edge of the rim was feathered so that only one-third the thickness was left where it met the top.

The side pieces also they extend 3.5” beyond the edge of the top and their thickness tapers to one third the thickness on its inside edge.  Because this piece is straight and with the grain, the tapering was done before it was glued to the top.  When you turn the top upside down, you can see the overhanging edges fore and both sides.
  
The top has multiple slats extending from the edge to the center opening.  The number depends on the size of the top.  I have penciled in the locations of the slats for this top (see two pictures down).  The slats that abut the curved portion of the rim have an unusual shape.  They are cut away to allow them to rest on top of the rim and tapered to a point as they approach the center opening.  Since they are all slightly different in shape, they were made individually.  The slat does not extend over the raised edge.  In the next picture I have incorrectly cut the side edges with a 45 degree bevel.  It should be a straight cut.  

The side slats pass through openings cut into the rim, and taper towards the center opening.  I laminated six pieces of wood together and shaped them into a triangle.  The height of the slat is flush with the rim.  The slats were unglued, openings were cut into the rim and they were installed. 

The aft slats are also triangular and extend to the edge of the top.  Lastly, a gunwale was glued on top of the aft slats and the side rim.  Take a look at this much later picture to see the relationships between the gunwale, side rim and aft slats. 


 
 
 
 

Post One Hundred and Seventy-five
18’ cutter – completion.
Lifting rings and a mast step are added to the basic kit along with the incredibly tiny thwart knees. Amazing how Chris manages to produce identifiable laser cut pieces this small.

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I have gone with a double banked six oared rowing arrangement, mainly because with single banking I would have to cut an oarlock in the wash strake above the sternsheets, and there’s insufficient depth.

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I’m not a fan of the kit rudders supplied with this range of boats, comprising a thin central core sandwiched between two brass etch facings complete with straps.
 
I prefer to make rudders using slightly thicker wood with a vertical grain. For the 18’ cutter I used 1mm Boxwood.

For hanging I use the ‘quick release’ method as used on such boats, as seen here on one of the Victory’s cutters. 
With this arrangement the pintle is attached to the sternpost with an extra-long pin which allows for easier rudder hanging once the boat is in the water.

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Rudders are fairly simple to replicate, as is the hanging, provided sufficiently tiny eyelets can be obtained.

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To match the other boats on the skids I have painted the bottom with Vallejo ivory, but otherwise left the remainder of the hull and inboard works bright.

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The oars provide the colour element linking to the general inboard works of ‘Indy’

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I think this small cutter looks ok on the skids, obscuring little of the gun deck, so I’ll leave it onboard.
 
It has taken around 8 days to build this smallest of the supplied boats. From around 10” she looks fine to my eye, especially given the scale, but the macro is somewhat less forgiving.🫤
 
B.E.
10/05/2024

We are constantly expanding our range of accessories. We have now created more categories of accessories sets for model ships. In particular, we have added new sets for model rigging and sails.
Many of these sets were created based on your orders and suggestions. And more will be added.
 
Categories of complete accessory sets can be found HERE
Here as an example you can see part of rigging and sails accessories on Cutty Sark 1:75 for kit by Billing Boats.

Thanks Thukydides - I was planning to follow your excellent advice. I installed the PE for the hammock cranes, then put a line through to check alignment, this proved surprisingly fiddly, so I fully rigged the hammock cranes as I’d probably find it difficult to do so once the shrouds were fitted. 
 
Adder’s hull is now complete except for the anchors so onto masts, yards and rigging… 
 
Photos of the finished hull below: 




With Alert. Perspective is deceptive, Alert and Adder’s hulls are almost identical in length. 

Log #2: unboxing and review
 
I’ve just picked up the kit today.
 
I’m amazed at the quality and precision in all the parts and how well everything is packaged and labeled. You literally can’t go wrong, let alone all the extra plans and diagrams.
 
This is a big step up in quality from my Perseverance.
 

 

 

 

Here is an unboxing review of Sherbourne, bt the Midwest Model Shops in the US:
 
(Not much else to report on, just been producing/re stocking Indy laser cut sheets, which has taken an absolute age to do...)

You will not need any of that

Time for an update. The sub-deck has been put in place. It clips in nicely, and once glued provides a good solid structure,
 

Once in place, the doublers at the stern can be glued in, and I added some slightly watered down carpenter's glue to give these areas some strength before continuing with some fairing to get ready for the bulwarks. This area is quite vulnerable, but with a little care and attention it hasn't caused me any problems.

After getting the fairing near to where I felt it should be, the keel parts are glued into place (thus saving them being sanded away unintentionally... 


 
I like this way of doing things. It gives you the double benefits of good access to sand, and a neat finish. Kudos, Chris!
 
Now the bulwarks can be fitted... They aren't glued above the sub-deck, but can be clamped... Again, it all seemed to go very smoothly.


Having waited again for things to dry overnight, the sub-counter was soaked, clamped in place, and allowed to dry overnight - again - and then glued in place... 
 


Then - having allowed it all to dry again - it was time to start the planking... 

And that's where I've got to so far...  Thanks for looking in. I'm really pleased with how things are going
 
Rob

Wonderful work.  Looking forward to watching your log of Speedy.
Enjoy Shetland!

Wonderful work.  Looking forward to watching your log of Speedy.
Enjoy Shetland!

It did, but the stock looks like it is on upside down?

Lower half of starboard side done and much better than port side as used a hairclip to hold shrouds spacing at the top. 
 

 

 

Top of the bulwarks painted black.
Then channels and upper rails fitted.
Gunwales painted black and glued. Eyebolts added to the inner bulwarks.


The gunwale across the stern needed to pre-formed to get the correct curve. I soaked it and let it dry for 24 hours.

On the stern the outer stern board was added followed by the rudder post cheeks. Then the aft gunwale and the black trim on the stern. 
I need to try a different white pain to touch up that matches the spray can white better. 
 
 

It would.  I used files on my first build to square off the top of the mast.
 
You can also go the other way of using square stock and rounding off the trunk of the mast.  Particularly useful for top masts given the change in shapes across the length.
 
 

Made a jig for the shrouds. Working ok so far.
 

 

 

 

I would think so but I´m not an expert about ratlines. But just by logic I would say it should be easier and safer to fit the shrouds and ratlines. But I would make sure that the mast is properly secured and fixed, if the mast collapses the entire work is ruined and you start again.
 
Micha

Thanks Micha. Me neither I've only done them once. Got the knot for the ratlines right about half way through? I was thinking without the yards fitted they might survive! This time I've test fitted the mast so I know it'll go in ok once it's got lots of delicate parts attached.