Craigie65

First Planking – Planking Stern Area
The method I used to plank under the stern counter area has evolved as I have progressed with this task. With the first couple of planks I worked from bulkhead 9 and used my plank crimping tool to add the bend around the stern counter.
 
I was not totally happy with the above method particularly with getting a nice smooth bend. It was also tricky to trim the end of the plank to fit under the stern frames. Therefore I decided to try working from the stern to bulkhead 9 which has worked out to be much better. The first task was to trim the plank end to the required angle.

 
Next I marked the area where the plank needed to be bent.

 
I used my heated plank bender to add the required bend which did yield much better results.

 
The bent plank was then clamped in position around the stern area so the plank could be trimmed to the right length at bulkhead 9. I found it beneficial to leave the plank clamped in place for a few minutes.

 
After one final dry fit check the plank was glued in place. I found it better to use a clamp to hold the plank in place at bulkhead 18 and then pinned the rest of the plank at each bulkhead position.

 
I have added 6 layers of planks. It is by no way perfect but this is my best attempt at first planking.

But I would know it’s there😉
 

Great progress.  
I was thinking of of adding stanchions around that orlop companionway. Looking at your gundeck there would be almost nothing to see.  I guess Chris had already thought of that!
 
 

Hi,
tie a simple overhand knot at one end of your line to stop it from being pulled through the yoke. Pull it taut and tie a knot at the other end.

Hi,
tie a simple overhand knot at one end of your line to stop it from being pulled through the yoke. Pull it taut and tie a knot at the other end.

Hi,
tie a simple overhand knot at one end of your line to stop it from being pulled through the yoke. Pull it taut and tie a knot at the other end.

@mgdawson
a picture paints a thousand words, or a hundred in the case of my description

Glomar,
No problem.
Yes it is a single line.

@mgdawson
a picture paints a thousand words, or a hundred in the case of my description

Glomar,
No problem.
Yes it is a single line.

Glomar,
sorry when you said you were having problems with tying knots I assumed you meant the block. 
Do you mean how the line runs?
 
The rigging in the bottom left starts with the line being seized to the becket (you can just about see the small loop in the plan) at the bottom of the block tied to the boom. It is then led down and through the lower block, back up the and through the top block, back down to the bottom block and then through the top block. The line is led to belaying point 2 which is the rail at the back of the ship. The first plan you posted shows the belaying point. You will find it helpful to dip the running end of the rigging thread in CA to create a needle - it make it easier to pass through the blocks. Also watch for the blocks twisting - the ropes should be parallel. If they twist it usually means you have threaded the line through the block back to front!
 
The one attached to the mast runs from the bottom eyelet, then follow the arrows down through the first block on the boom and back up to the lower block on the mast and so on until you lead the end to belaying point 4, at the foot of the mast.
 
 Does that help?

Glomar,
sorry when you said you were having problems with tying knots I assumed you meant the block. 
Do you mean how the line runs?
 
The rigging in the bottom left starts with the line being seized to the becket (you can just about see the small loop in the plan) at the bottom of the block tied to the boom. It is then led down and through the lower block, back up the and through the top block, back down to the bottom block and then through the top block. The line is led to belaying point 2 which is the rail at the back of the ship. The first plan you posted shows the belaying point. You will find it helpful to dip the running end of the rigging thread in CA to create a needle - it make it easier to pass through the blocks. Also watch for the blocks twisting - the ropes should be parallel. If they twist it usually means you have threaded the line through the block back to front!
 
The one attached to the mast runs from the bottom eyelet, then follow the arrows down through the first block on the boom and back up to the lower block on the mast and so on until you lead the end to belaying point 4, at the foot of the mast.
 
 Does that help?

This link may help Stropping

Glomar,
sorry when you said you were having problems with tying knots I assumed you meant the block. 
Do you mean how the line runs?
 
The rigging in the bottom left starts with the line being seized to the becket (you can just about see the small loop in the plan) at the bottom of the block tied to the boom. It is then led down and through the lower block, back up the and through the top block, back down to the bottom block and then through the top block. The line is led to belaying point 2 which is the rail at the back of the ship. The first plan you posted shows the belaying point. You will find it helpful to dip the running end of the rigging thread in CA to create a needle - it make it easier to pass through the blocks. Also watch for the blocks twisting - the ropes should be parallel. If they twist it usually means you have threaded the line through the block back to front!
 
The one attached to the mast runs from the bottom eyelet, then follow the arrows down through the first block on the boom and back up to the lower block on the mast and so on until you lead the end to belaying point 4, at the foot of the mast.
 
 Does that help?

This link may help Stropping

This post will detail the work I undertook to install the gundeck plywood patterns and stern counter frame patterns. There a a lot of photos to look at.
 
Gun Deck Plywood Pattern – Installation
After another dry run I went ahead and glued the plywood gundeck patterns in place. Once the gundeck was in place I could feel there was full contact between the gundeck beams and the deck along the outer edges. A series of clamps were used to hold the central section in place as the glue cures. Although not shown in the photo below I did also place some weighted objects on the deck.

 
As can be seen in the next photo the cut-outs between the two gundeck pattern are nicely aligned.

 
The only area where the deck did not seem to sit flat was at the bow end. I tried a heavy weight and then a simple clamping arrangement as shown below.

 
I was not totally happy that the decks were totally flat so ended up using a modified version, as shown below, which was successful.

 
Once the glue had cured it was time, once again, to test fit some of the deck items, particularly those items which locate in slots on the lower deck.

 
Fitting Stern Counter Frame Patterns
There are 3 stern counter frame patterns per side, inner, middle and outer. Before fitting I removed the laser char from the stern frame pattern slots which locate over bulkheads 18 and 17. Once the laser char had been removed each pattern was fitted with out any problem.

 
Next the stern frame connecting beam was added.

 
Before the stern frame filler pattern (deck level) can be fitted the top edge requires bevelling. It is not a great photo of the bevel edge.

 
After bevelling the stern frame filler pattern (deck level) it was glued in place. I used a couple of clamps to hold the pattern in place.

 
Three additional stern filler patterns were then added.

 
To finish off today’s work I dry fitted the aft quarter strips and door frame patterns. These were all a good fit.

Thankyou David, I'm already thinking  Where am I going to put this!
 
Chapter Two
First Stages
In this stage most of the heavy weight mdf items are assembled.
The initial assembly slots together cleanly, and I must commend Chris on the sharpness and fit of the laser work.
I did run a sanding stick in the Bulkhead slots to smooth the char and where necessary a light tap with a pein hammer (not directly) seated the parts fully down.
I found I needed to ease the slots for the securing pegs which run thro’ the keel assembly. Even so they are a snug fit and I don’t really think they need glue.

0384
The keel is still quite floppy at this stage due to its length, so I utilised the Amati keel clamp whilst I fettled and inserted the pegs.

0383
With this beast the keel clamp is at the limit of its capacity, and I’m toying with the idea of buying a second to double the length, and provide a more stable support.
A deeper bench would be ideal but not really feasible. I will have to be careful when turning the hull that those delicate frame tops don’t collide with the wall.

0387
Note: There is a minor error in the manual at Stages 21/22. Bulkhead 17 is not removeable as indicated, as it is held by part 40. Chris has issued a pdf amendment addressing this.

0389
A small area of the Orlop deck is represented beneath the Fore hatchways, which I ‘dressed’ using spare engraved maple decking.

0390
The Lower deck slips seamlessly into place and there is a plywood planking engraved section that presumably covers the area that may be observed thro’ the Upper deck openings.
The Orlop and Lower deck decking section are the only parts glued at this stage.

0401
I considered whether to over-plank the Lower deck section, as will be done to the upper deck, but very little will be seen and I think the marked plank lines and butts will be sufficient for the purpose.

0401
Very nicely cut grating sets which I will install ‘as is’ for the lower deck.

0397
The assembly of ladders always give me trouble but a simple jig helps a little.
The final action in this Chapter is to add the Longitudinal bracing pieces (No.30) and parts5b/11b described as a gundeck beam.

0405
Note: Parts 30 are to be found on the 4mm mdf sheet not 3mmm as indicated. May save you a little time in sifting thro’ the sheets.
 
I did have a slight mishap with one of the part 30 pieces, which broke about one-third along at the weak point of the slot top.
Take care if easing these slots the part is very whippy and care needs to be taken.

0408
This completes this section, more of an assembly than a build at this stage.
 
 I can only marvel at the ingenuity of Chris to design a beast like this held securely together with barely any glue.
 
B.E.
10/03/2023
 

Looking good! 😁
 
I'll have to live through you on the build at the moment, but when rooms look like this, I can't see the Admiral being happy if I joined you just yet!
 
On the plus side it is woodwork! 😆

Gun Port Patterns – Installation
Following on from my last post where I detailed the preparation work with regards to the upper and lower gun port longitudinal frame patterns I have now glued patterns in place.
 
I brushed glue in both the pattern and bulkhead slots. After each pattern had been glued in place a wetted paint brush was used to remove the excess glue, with some of the excess diluted glue being brushed into the joints.
 
The pencil lines do match up so I know the patterns are fully engaged in the bulkhead slots.

 
The patterns, when glued, stayed in place without the need to use clamps for the most part. There were a couple of bulkheads where it was necessary to hold them in place.

 
Before removing the vertical gun port patterns from the MDF sheet, I did add a part reference in pencil.

 
I then dry fitted all these vertical gun port patterns all to make sure there was no installation issues. Next each vertical gun port pattern was removed in turn and the pencil marks were removed with an eraser. Glue was added to both the pattern and bulkhead slots and the pattern was then refitted. The excess glue brushed away with a wetted paint brush, with some of the excess diluted glue being brushed into the joints. It did not take too long to glue all the patterns in place.

 
Next task should be the fitting of the gun deck sections and stern counter frame patterns. I will have limited time in the shipyard over the next few days due to grandparent duties so not sure when this will be done.

Good evening everyone
thank you for comments and likes
 
day 9 lower deck planking
 
the weather outside has restricted me taking her out to start sanding the outer hull, so using the boxwood i have started the lower gundeck,
sorry the photos are not brilliant,
very little of this will ever bee seen, all the slots down the port and stbd side are for the cannons, i made the decision to cover these for now and either find them later on, or find an alternative method for fixing them
 
just loving this build

 
 

I received the kit and can't wait to start but will be a couple of months to finish my current build. As I was going over the very extensive and great plans I noticed a couple of things:
 
1. No note is made of when to put in the main deck cannons onto their trucks. Buy the pictures, it looks like after the painting is done. To rig them, mainly the ones you can see would make spray painting difficult as they would be sticking out of the hull. Also to rig all lower guns visible from above requires doing it before the upper deck installed, again making spray painting hard.
2. I do have rigging plans for the long guns from other Vanguard projects but no rigging plan for the carronades. I have seen various versions in these forms but non specific to the eyelets on this model's version.
 
I think others now starting their build logs will hit these issues before me so will keep an eye out.
 
Overall an incredible build
 
 

But I would know it’s there😉
 

Great progress.  
I was thinking of of adding stanchions around that orlop companionway. Looking at your gundeck there would be almost nothing to see.  I guess Chris had already thought of that!
 
 

But I would know it’s there😉
 

You'd need an endoscope to see anything down there 😆