Craigie65

Little update..
 
My 'new' garage conversion is now more or less complete. I now have a good electricity supply going into the workshop and have a good amount of sockets, so no more extensions snaking all over the floor. The final job was the insulated roller shutter doors. I took a couple of pics, but realised I took these after I just finished maintenance (cleaning) of the laser machines. In this room, the parts are produced, both laser cut sheets and castings.
 
I have also added a couple of pics on my Indy prototype progress. This is the third hull since starting, and the final designs. All beams and decks above the gun deck are just dry fitted in place, to check general fit of all of these parts, the beams especially. The upper deck and poop you see are sub decks only, and they will require planking (no pre etched decks for the final kit). But I will include the etched planking on the sub decks as shown, in case some want to use as a template. Decks can be fully planked or part open, as shown. I would suggest you don't deviate too much from these openings, however, as there are 10 guns per side on the quarter and forecastle deck..
 
Gun deck inner bulwarks have been added (all pre-cut) as well as spirketting. Most of the outer hull will be planked in the traditional manner, though.
 
It has been a lot of long hours to get to this stage, but I can relax a little once all critical structural parts are finalised - but these very early stages of the pre-prototype will give you an idea of what I am aiming for, for this kit. I will keep on building using this hull until I get to the stage, like my Sphinx 'throwaway' (which I still have...) where I know everything fits as it should, then over to Jim!

I have had the opportunity to order rope from Ben (RoS) as well as from Chuck (Syren). Both outstanding quality and quick delivery. Syren has limited the amount of rope per placed order and I needed much more for my ship, so I found RoS and ordered the rest of what I needed. I am pretty overwhelmed by Ben's service and the quality is phenomenal. I mean really really good! 
 
I am not in the position to make my own quality rope and I was looking for an upgrade for my current project 
 
Let me explain a bit further, from Syren the rope I've ordered is a cotton / polyester blend or mix and so I've ordered at RoS cotton ropes (took a leap of fate because I didn't know Ben or RoS) to have sort of the same. However, Ben contacted me by pm and asked me if I would upgrade the ropes from cotton to 100% Gutermann polyester rope for free. To me poly rope has some benefits over cotton, like no fussiness, better resistance with climate changes and humidity and long lasting. So, I opted for the upgrade! Well, when received my package of ropes, I couldn't be more pleased. You should have seen the smile on my face when opening and layed out all the ropes and cable. Boy, the quality, tightness is fantastic. 
 
But, this is not the end of the story. Ben again contacted me short after sending out the package and apologized for the color of the "dark brown" batch. To him, the color was a bit too dark like almost black. He knew I didn't want black but more like a chocolate brown and so he told me that he's sending me a new batch with a lighter color for free!  This is absolutely top service I didn't expected and when I received the second package and compared both colors, he was right down to the money! The replacement batch of the lighter dark brown color was just perfect and exactly what I wanted. I know this is a personal preference, but the service and the way Ben wanted me to get the right color and not disappoint me is a service which becomes rare in this world. For me this was a done deal, and I will order again! What a more than outstanding service! 
 
I have no ties with RoS nor with Ben personally, but RoS deserves a good review so, I give one! 
 
The batch of ropes I've ordered and a comparison of the dark brown color and a comparison of cable. 
 

 

 

 
So the picture below shows cable from Ropes of Scale and Syren. This is not a comparison which one is best, because to me both are excellent quality and I love both of them and I think the best out there on the market you can buy. I only want to show you the difference between left 100% polyester and on the right a mix of cotton / polyester. (I don't know the percentage but I think it's more cotton than poly)
It's more a personal preference I'll guess.
 

 

 
 
So, for my project Cazador I will use Ben's ropes and I'm looking forward how they will look on the ship. I'll have to wait though, because I'm very busy with carving at the moment and not gotten to the rigging part of the ship.
 
I would like to thank Ben for his service and if you guys have any questions about Ben's ropes or service I'm happy to answer them. Just send me a pm!
 
regards,
Peter

And onto today's second part of my update. I do it this way now so there aren't 30 - 40 pics in one post.
 
The companionway is a nice, simple assembly. Nothing difficult to fathom here.
 






 
 
The rudder can now be permanently fitted, and the tiller shaped and glued into place.

 
 
PE rudder hinge straps are now painted and glued into place with CA gel.

 
 
The channels on Jack are very narrow, and engraved lines on them indicate where you need to drill through and insert shortened brass pins for some extra strength. I also deepen the engraved holes on the upper rails, going into the bulwarks about a millimetre or so. The channels are then glued into place. Notice the area on rail left unpainted, where the engraved position was given. That was masked while painting the rails, so there's a good, clean gluing connection.


 
 
Jack's stern frieze is now painted white and glued into the green panel.

 
 
Jack's bowsprit is roughly parallel to the bottom of the keel/waterline. As the bowsprit is from 4mm dowel, I used a 3mm piece, wrapped in some sandpaper, and used the bowsprit post as a guide for sanding down the gunwale and bulwark to accommodate it. A simple task that took no more than a couple of minutes.


 
 
Other ironwork is now fitted, such as the bulwark cleats, eyelets and belaying pins. 

 
3mm deadeyes are now fitted to the chainplates and secured to hull. The brass pins will then be painted over (not shown on these pics).


 
Saucy Jack's completed hull!
 
Next up will be masting and rigging. 

 
 
 

An update that has taken some doing AND re-doing! 😣 I have really struggled to re-learn tying blocks to things, having not done it for ages, my first attempts either 'slipped their moorings' of their own account (too shame faced to call themselves seizing's!) or looked so naff that I cut them off myself in frustration.
 
So an evening trawling MSW for inspiration, tip and tricks and I came a cross a few that I have tried out this last few evenings.  One I found by @Thanasis is especially promising, so I have given it a go and after making my own "Tie-fast seizing tyer" out of an old paint brush.  I won't go into the method, as it is very well explained in the link below.  Suffice to say I will be trying it out more to see if I can become more proficient at it.
 
My results below, six whole blocks tied on in two evening! 😆
 
 

A quick update!
 
Work progressed on the lower hull. Sanding, filling, priming....repeat!


 
 
Once the hull was unmasked, it was masked again for the upper bulwarks. I used Tamiya Flat Green for this, applied with an airbrush. This stuff applies real nice and seems like the sort of shade that working boats would've used.

 
 
...then the engraved wales. The align with the lowest etched line on bulwark, and is designed to nicely had the transition from bulwark to planking (plus any resulting pin holes!)

 
 
...then the upper rails. Again these fit in the narrow band just under the painted bulwarks.

 
 
....then lastly the gunwales. These are applied and then the rear gunwale is fitted separately. 


 
Belaying racks are now fitted.


 
 
A small break from hull work now as the fish hatches and grating is assembled. 




Ok, more in a few days when hull will be fitted and totally complete. 
 

Nice additions Andrew. Really worth the effort.
 

Nice additions Andrew. Really worth the effort.
 

This update mostly on the progress with making the mast, gaff and bowsprit; work just starting on the boom, but nothing worth reporting on that yet.
Bowsprit:-  Added some little details with reference once again to Edgar Marsh and his fabulously detailed book, added a collar and ring for the Topmast stay, drilled a couple of holes to simulate the sheave for the Jib and finally added a strip of card to simulate an iron rubbing strake for when the Bowsprit is run in.
Gaff:-  Main addition I made was to add a rocking tumbler between the jaws of the Horns, pleased in the end it does 'rock' but yes I did break the jaws making it! 😆 glue once again my friend, finally card strips glued on to represent iron bands.
Main Mast:- A few little details added over and above those provided in the kit, a topmast fid (not really visible in these pictures) an arm for Lantern halyards and mainmast cheeks; these are just visible in the Marsh plans of "Nisha" (see extract of those plans).  Finally an addition that took the most time but is actually hardly visible so not really worth the effort perhaps, is that I added rubbing battens, top and tailed by a collar and chaffing plate respectively.  I thinned the kit's walnut dowel where the rubbing battens were to be fixed and then cut thin strips from 0.5mm planks for the battens and glued in place.  These needed sanding so the mast hoops still moved freely.  Wish I had used a slightly different colour/type of wood for this, so it stood out better, but at least I know I made the effort, even if you can't see it from more than six inches away! 🤨
Finished the session off with preparing some blocks for stropping to the mast etc.  I have been prevaricating around the bush regarding starting some rigging of blocks, so I have been taking my time and trawling MSW for tips.  I read on other threads how pre-gluing the thread to the blocks with PVA first helps with managing the whipping process.  The blocks with pins at one end are for simple beckets, which I have hopefully sealed in shape with fly tying varnish; hoping to try and not use CA for my rigging on this build.

Wow, expertly done

Wow, expertly done

1st planking complete. My Nisha and I definitely aren’t going to win any modeling contracts on our first go, but the experience was worth it.
The wording in the manual suggests there’s more than one way to skin a hull—so I definitely was working on it anticipating needing cleaner work on the next go.
Been reading, YouTubing, and reading some more on techniques/best practices for best results. 
This is premature: but it’s almost a shame I’m learning on this kit, since it’s such a beautiful little craft. Perhaps with more experience I can revisit her and display them side by side. 🤣
I am lucky to work for whom I do, as an unexpected little performance bonus has bolstered the coffers to kit out my little shop. 
Having the right tools for the job does make a difference. 
Somehow—a kit that shall remain nameless fell into my shopping basket when Nisha’ s sails were ordered…weird. 😁
 
Cheers All,
Grey

Quarter Galleries
Today I have added the final parts on the quarter galleries and the task is now complete. The PE decorations were painted gold last night and secured in place on the quarter galleries using super phatic glue. The upper finishing tile roof PE decorations have also been fitted, but they were painted black. Finally the quarter gallery upper fretwork patterns were glued in place using super phatic.
 

 

 
Stern Fascia
I have also nearly completed all the work on the outer face of the stern fascia. The PE parts have been painted gold and secured using super phatic glue. I will need to touch up some of the black and red paint, as can been seen in the photo below.

 
The resin moulding has been painted, but still requires a bit more work to tidy up the painting up before I will go ahead and fix it to the stern fascia pattern.

 
 

This evening I've been putting the fish in their crates; saving a little one for the ship's dog of course! also experimenting with making a "crowded" deck.
 
Also had a very unsuccessful attempt to use 'Letraset' rub on lettering, nope that won't work!  Some rubbing down and repainting of the hull black now in order.  Now need to research into alternatives... possibly print my own, just toying with the possibility on a renaming operation here...

Okay, so there is something distinctly fishy about this update....
 
I have made some 🐟 to go in the lovely printed crates that I got from Chris that I painted in post #75.
 
However any Fishermen 🎣 here on the MSW need to look away now! ....nothing to see here.... for fear I might do you all a mischief as you burst in fits of laughter!
 
You have been warned if you read further....
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>
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So these little beauties are the not so well know species of 🐡 called the "North Sea Cocktail stick fish", you get about 14 to the stick by cutting them about 10mm long, putting in the chuck of a drill and spinning them on sandpaper a bit to get a roughly 🐠 shape and then slicing them lengthways to get two and a flattened back so I could stick fins on them made of card.
 
A spray of silver followed by some highlights in "gunmetal" and black to add a hint of detail and a few eyes and we are done.
 
The plan is to stack these in the boxes with the best looking ones to the top.
 
Note, to those of you who have been doing this hobby long enough will recognise the above as someone avoiding doing the next bit of their build they are not looking forward to, by mucking about and doing this sort of thing!  😆
 
Oh well, stopping blocks to eyelets and masts it is then... 🤔
 
Hope no one is on the floor in pain now after this post.... 😂

Little update...
 
I now have another 5 boats available:
 
Cutters:
20 foot
22 foot
24 foot
25 foot
 
And a 36 Foot Admirals Barge
 
Ship’s Boats (various types) – VANGUARD MODELS
 
Thanks to James Hatch!
 
Also, I started Indefatigable designs a few weeks ago, and am currently nailing the hull designs. Throughout all this, I have had terrible toothache, culminating in tooth removal yesterday, so still feel like a bear with a sore head...
 
The pics show the very first assembly of the first parts I cut for Indy, and other pics show the second cut of modified parts. Hull design is now set in stone, so onto deck and bulwark stuff.
 
I decided to include full deck beams to scale, also scale distance for the upper and poop decks. I am still working on these.
 
The only parts that are glued on the assembly are the gunport parts.
 
This is quite large...

I didn't mention in my last post some details about the Indefatigable development.
 
Scale is 1:64th, making the hull only a little under 890mm in length (still around 50mm longer than my Amati Vanguard in 72nd).
 
I am basing the model on how she likely appeared in 1796/97, when she captured the French 44-gun frigate Virginie in April 1796 and her most famous action in January 1797, helping drive the 74  Gun Droits de l'Homme ashore. My research tells me that at this time, her armament  was 26x 24 pounders, (I assume Armstrong pattern so this is what I have done for the kit), 18 x 42 Pounder carronades and 2 x 12 Pounder (long) chase guns (which I have done in the Blomefield pattern). So that makes 46 guns in total.
 
It is twice mentioned in contemporary correspondence that she had 14 carronades on the quarterdeck. The original plans show space for only 6 per side, so I have amended the quarterdeck bulwarks to take the extra port into account. I will probably fit her with a flying jibboom, as this was introduced in 1794, so the finished model will be quite a size.
 
The pictures shown above are only the very first test fits with all critical structural parts. The hull structure needs to be pretty solid due to its size, so more attention has been spent ensuring this.
 
Need to work out a suitable figurehead. Stern will be quite basic, but am not sure if the figurehead would have been just a bust or full, as these razees were commissioned at the height of the austerity measures...

Update with progress pictures of the little boat I am adding, this is from Caldercraft; before I knew Chris at Vanguard was doing his own, so not as refined as his 3D printed ones, as resin the shell has no detail (and it is not quiet symmetrical!) - so added some of my own ribs with plastic strip.  I also added a wood floor from left over pear strip from the second planking.  The 'clinker' build was simulated with card, something I have seen @Beef Wellington do on his superb builds, so shamelessly copied him! 😁  seats and capping rail also from pear.  I have added a "boat slide" for this on the deck of 'Nisha' and will fix at a later stage.
 
Next update will be back on the 'Nisha' starting the masts.

Post Seventy-two
 
The Quarter Galleries.
The first job is to glaze the lights.
More careful gloved handling to reduce as far as possible any smearing of the acetate.
I recall reading somewhere, the reference escapes me, that some of the lights, particularly the aftermost one, were false or only half lights, presumably to give an element of privacy.
I have decided to fully glaze them not least for uniformity and aesthetic effect.

2543
With the frames in place  the sense of depth and light as a result of opening up the Galleries achieves the natural look I was after.
 
A word on the window frames
These are handed left and right and fore to aft, there are I think subtle differences between the angles particularly the aftermost frame and the forward two.
Follow the details on Plan 13.
It then becomes an easy fit over the ‘glazing’.
I again used Vallejo varnish to fix, applying dots on the outer framework using a toothpick. I allowed the varnish to slightly 
thicken before application, to improve grab and avoid any spread onto the glazing.
 
Fitting the decorative columns between the windows gave me some pause for thought. Not as simple as for the stern gallery where there were clearly marked reference points.

2550
I removed the model from the Amati keel clamp where it had  been for the fitting of the stern decoration,  and set it back in its working stand.

2557
This gave me a better approach level for the task. At the correct height I can steady my elbows on the work bench while I apply these little parts.

2556
The trick is getting them all aligned at the right height and without getting any glue spread. The blurb indicates that the columns are placed evenly between the top and bottom of the window frames.
Then there is the question of how to apply them without fat fingers getting the way and without marring the carefully painted surface.
I used a toothpick shaped to fit in the centre recess of the column.
Ideally a one shot attempt is best, I don’t really want to be sliding the part around spreading glue on the blue paintwork.

 
2560
Things will look better once the moulding strips are applied.
 
Mouldings.
These too I found tricky to fit, using ca gel. On the Starboard side the  columns had to be removed as I couldn’t get the moulding to run cleanly to the stern; I think I had applied the aftermost column a fraction low.

2563
The trouble with removing etch is that there is a high risk of it pinging off into the ether, as one did, followed by a fraught ten minutes  wrestling it from the carpet monster.
2566
On reflection I wonder if it is better to fit the mouldings before the columns.
The joints with the stern rails were chamfered to represent mitre joints which give the neatest result at this scale.

2578
I used the discarded stern rails to make the two main gallery rails.
For the decoration between the rails I went with the photo etch.
Take note that the designated parts are  PE 23AL AND 23AR, not as shown in the manual.
 
Next came the shingle for the roof, cleverly designed in photo etch, these are applied one overlapping the other in four rows. They are primed and painted in Vallejo Black/Grey.

2586
The final and possibly the trickiest element is the decoration for the finishing piece.

2571
Two small separate pieces that need to fit in the space below the Berthing rail, and it is at this point whether you shaped the Finishing piece correctly all those weeks ago is revealed.
As I had significantly messed about with the Qtr galleries I had my doubts.

2583(2)

2581(2)
Still some fettlin’ to do on the stern but that’s it for the present, moving on in my opinion, to the most critical part of a build, the Headworks.
 
What joy awaits.
 
B.E.
31/01/22

Update for work done over the weekend and tonight, added the bulwark stanchions and capping rails and now started to add the deck parts, working my way forward (with the exception of the tiller arm - pretty sure I will manage to break that off if I fit it now!) no real problems encountered and the bulwark stanchions were actually very therapeutic to add, just did them one at a time, sanded off the char and a little dab of glue job done, just took my time to make sure they lined up with the markings Chris provides on the inner bulwarks.  I have wiped on a couple of light coats of Danish oil to bring out the deck and other wood parts in contrast to the bulwark black.

Update tonight of the hull now it has been painted.  There are some minor areas to touch-up (as usual with my painting! 😮); where I have not quite got the masking right, but overall I think this is fairly close to what I wanted to achieve and looks similar to B.M. 45 "Pilgrim" in post #47, the black is Sovereign Paints' "Bomber black" which is not jet black, I think it looks like a slightly worn black paint which I personally like.  I will seal everything in a matt varnish at a later stage.
Also made a start on painting a few of the small parts.
Next up need to add the deck and start on fixing all those fiddly little bulwark stanchions! 
Plus work on going on the little ship's boat...
 
Thanks all for your continued likes and comments.

3D printing really is the future, Hard to beat those results. Gorgeous little stoves.

OK, Brodie Stoves...
 
I had the original CAD stove drawing amended to address some initial issues (bolts hardly visible, hole for condenser too small etc., just little things), I changed the supports (for when the stoves are being printed) to the smallest possible to reduce any stubs that remain, and I was happy with the final file and print.
 
I have produced the stoves in 1:64th, 1:72nd and 1:96th:
 
Brodie Stove – VANGUARD MODELS
 
I have attached two pictures of my first prototype stoves, showing all three scales, and two pictures of the one I sent James Hatch, which is painted. (and the latest versions are a little different with the changes stated above). As mentioned, each comes in 4 parts, main body, chimney, condenser and drip tray - and the original 64th version has been designed for the Indefatigable kit.
 
Sizes (heights are without chimneys)
1:64 -L-28mm W – 24mm H – 29mm 1:72 – L-25mm W – 22mm H – 25.3mm 1:96 – L-18.75mm W – 17.3mm H – 19mm  

Quick update showing the sanding, filling & primer coats and first coat of anti fouling! For the sake of full disclosure, some pictures of the "ugly" stage when doing the filling and rubbing down, I took three goes at this process until I was happy with it, a fine balance I think between getting a good finish and not obliterating all trace of the planking!
Also at this stage I assembled and attached the rudder, a lovely little detailed section with laser detailed pear and PE parts, hopefully won't knock this off in later stages. 😖
Between the coming days of painting and allowing 24 hours to dry I have made a start on a small boat; wish I had known about Chris's new clinker built ship’s boats he released recently, but will do the best I can with this resin version, updates to follow!

Thanks Don she's becoming a beautiful ship you can see why some became yachts.
 
Finished up fixing the whoops and then started on the working part of a sailing ship. Removed the shroud ironwork from PE sheet and carefully filed the holding tabs until a smooth surface. I use 
 
Parts are cleaned with 91% alcohol before being immersing in solution. After cleaning all handling is done with tweezers. I've found that if you leave the parts in the solution until they turn to black and remove them to dry on a paper towel gives me the best results. Once dry parts are dry they're washed with water and left to dry. The deadeyes were put into the ironwork as described in the instructions. To get the angle correct to the shrouds a thread was strung from a dowel the height of where the shrouds attach. A mark was made using the ironwork with a straight pin and then a pilot hole was drill for the nail.
 

 
The main mast required a 2mm relief at the top so out came the lathe. Simple matter of turning the 6mm dowel down to 4mm diameter at the required length.
 

 
The 4mm portion required 3 holes for the metal work and an eyebolt. Using my ratio to find their positions and drill the holes.
 

 
All parts made they were dry fit on the boat.
 

 
Next to blacken parts, sand, stain, and finish parts and on the yard and gaff.
 
Best Regards
Will
 
 
 

Post Sixty-four
 
 Bits and pieces.
Time to make up the ladders leading down from the Upper deck.
There are two laser cut sets in Pearwood, nicely formed with added decoration down the stiles and shaped treads, a cut above the standard fayre in many kits.

2195
The only point that struck me was that the Main ladderway midships is quite  wide  and I wondered if a central stile was appropriate to support the treads.

2178
Still need a little cleaning up at this point, and a finish with w-o-p.

2209
Ladders are tricky little  beggars to fit, and I always attach a length of cotton to the top tread so it may be recovered if it slips onto the lower deck, or even deeper into the hull.
 
I wasn’t happy with the Aft hatch grating and Chris was kind enough to sell me replacement bespoke gratings both for the Upper deck and the Quarter deck, which I thought also may present me with similar issues later on.

2176
The gratings are cut, soaked and bent around a large circumference tube to impart the necessary curve.

2188
It took two of the basic aft hatch gratings to make one split version, which is more historically accurate, and satisfies the detail devil that lives within me.

2190
Now satisfied, I can move on.
 
The kit contains simple Mast rings to glue on the deck over the mast holes. With open beams I thought a minor enhancement to better represent the mast partners was in order.

2217
Not entirely authentic but sufficient for the purpose..
I believe the rings are supposed to be a representation of the  wedges used to secure the mast against the partners.

2222
Fore mast partners.
When doing this sort of modification it is worth checking how it will affect the surrounding fittings.

2226
The Fore riding Bitts and supports needed the mortices  tweaking a little to fit, but with the surrounding fixtures very little will be seen of the partners.

2231
Looks like a  major char removal exercise is looming.
 
B.E.
15/01/22