JohnLea

Have a look at Retired Guy's approach the to Fair a Frame at the begining of his Bluenose log.

Although true,  wrote the above post as a bit of a joke.  After, I started wondering how I knew that.  I am not very intuitive. I don't see it on the Byrnes product page for drawplates.  but it may have come with instructions.   

I wrote "wood only" on mine when I got it.  (Sharpie.)

Would it be useful to make molded edges?  I agree that it would not be hard to make.

18 minutes ago, wefalck said:

I would always be very hesitant to mix two paint systems.

Not a paint system (at least I don't think so.) but a friend who was a brilliant figure painter painted a 12" Catwoman.  He was in the habit of putting on coats of Future floor wax as the final finish if a high shine was wanted.  It didn't work.  Her uniform developed a crackle finish rather than the shiny patent leather look. He thought it had something to do with the dryness of the underpaint but he was never sure.  I avoided anything more adventurous than oils over acrylics since then.

Try heating it with a hair dryer or heat gun.  I have had some success with polyurethane resin and whatever type is used in the fiberglass kits.

If this link has been posted, I missed it.

https://www.southernmuseum.org/

I have no idea how accurately the restore was done.

 PDF from Andrea.

https://www.andreaeurope.com/descargas/AP 030I TEXTS ENG.pdf

A little more in this area including staging and lighting.

http://www.boxdioramas.com/sheperd-paine

Have a look through this pair's site.  There used to be some "how to's" but their work is top drawer and worth the time.

http://www.mb-miniatures.com/pages/en/home.php

It has been a while since I have painted a figure and know there are a number of specialty forums out there but these are the only ones I can recall.  Worth browsing through them if the subject interests you.

https://www.planetfigure.com/

http://www.timelinesforum.com/

I appreciate the information..  I have had the lathe and other tools for years and have never used them.  Now that I am slowing down I am turning to ship models and in that, looking at the tools again.  A rabbit warren of distractions.

Thanks!  I will investigate my options some more.

I was excited to find this thread figuring that these items would be very useful.  Then I did an uncharacteristic thing.  I measured the chuck jaws opened to what I am setting as the maximum and these blocks are too big.  Do these gizmos come in a smaller form?

Agreed on the Bard Parker but I found the spine a problem in some cases  when cutting mould rubber.

Thanks.  I used to lay it on egg crate foam.  That kept it from stabbing my thigh or foot when it rolled off the desk.

I used scalpels for years to cut moulds and had a variety of handles.  I found the best fit of the snap on handles was in using the Swan Morton blue handle.  I also used a "screw on" handle but can't remember the name.  It held the blade the best but was round and tended to roll on the table.  If I can find it I will take a picture.

Probably not he best or most detailed but I enjoyed David Howarth's "Trafalgar-The Nelson Touch".  I think I will try to find it for a re-read.

Thanks.  I will give it a try.

Thanks.  I missed the screws completely.  So basically the dremel fits in a hole that is clamped via screw pressure.  I assume that squareness checks are required at each use or at least after removal and replacement.

I am missing something.  What is holding the dremel in position and keeping it square?

I confuse easily but I think the drill press is shown in Post 9 in the first link posted by mtaylor.

Again, thank you gentlemen.

Bob, good advice.  I will take it.

Mtaylor, you are correct.  Much better when printed.  Now I am embarrassed that I gave up on it years ago.

Thank you gentlemen.

Richard, that is exactly what I tried to describe.  So the trick is to ignore it on the screen or does better hardware solve the problem?  I find it a bit distracting but it is not like there is nowhere else in the hobby where I can learn things.

I am currently lurking on modeling forums while I can still get out and about, fishing but at some point I will be forced to cut back on the more active interests and focus on modeling.  I probably will never complete a model but enjoy  fiddling with it to keep my brain functioning.

With that in mind, I thought I would try to learn CAD. (TurboCad 12.)  I picked it up some years back and couldn’t draw a straight line on an angle.  The line would not be continuous but would zig zag.  Actually zig zig.  I blamed it on an old computer and just went to paper to draw what I needed. (Not modeling plans.)

I recently installed it on  much newer laptop (not high end) and sadly still get the zig zig but it made me think that I am likely overlooking some display setting on the computer or maybe in Turbocad.

This is not crucial but if someone can suggest how I can fix this I would appreciate it.