egkb

Hi photo Victory .
 

Little update.
 
I will soon have a new 24 and 26-foot launch for sale later today. These have 3-d printed hulls, windlass and stern davit, and a 0.8mm pear laser cut sheet containing knees, thwarts, oars etc. Both in 64th scale for now.
 
I have also commissioned a 22- and 24-foot cutter, 22-foot yawl, 28 and 32-foot pinnace and another launch, so ultimately, I shall have complete pre made hull sets (along with the laser cut wood parts to go with them) for all of my kits, including future developments, as an alternative to the plank on bulkhead versions.
 
Also almost ready are the new Nelson figures. This will be available in 72nd, 64th, 48th, 32nd and a few in 1:16th scale. These have a separate base.

Dipping back in.  What great work Jason. A beautiful bow. 

Hi Eamonn!
Thank you

Well Done Stergios.. Super Stuff !
 
Eamonn

I did a variety of things over the last week.  I built the jib outhaul block (shown in the painfully enlarged photo below . . . warts and all, haha).  Mike (stuntflyer) has an excellent tutorial for that on his Cheerful build, so I followed that.  I then made a card stock mock up of the starboard side seat.  I used the card stock templates as a pattern to cut out the parts.  As others have said this is a bit finicky.  I have a feeling the second one will be more of a challenge as I try to get it to match the first.
 
I spent some time this week reading ahead in Chuck's monograph chapters to get a list of the last little bits I need to finish the build.  I ordered some Albion Alloys brass tube.  I also messaged Chuck, Mike, and Glenn (glbarlow) with questions about the thread type/size/color they used with Chuck's scale rope for seizing and serving.  Today I went on a region wide road trip to fly fishing shops and fabric stores.  Most of my dark brown rope is Chuck's old style rope, other than the .012" new Ultra for rat lines (so I don't need thread for seizing or serving the brown Ultra rope).  My tan rope is a mix of his old rope and the new Ultra rope.  These tan colors are close enough in shade to mix on the model, but I wanted thread for seizing that matched each shade.  The photos below are color corrected to be as close to accurate as I could possibly get the images.  The Gutermann thread is for most serving and seizing.  The smaller diameter UNI-Thread fly tying thread is for tiny serving and seizing.
 
Here's what I came up with based on what I could find locally.
Using with Syren old brown rope - Gutermann 50wt CA02776 Polyester thread Color 593 - UNI-Thread 72D 8/0W Dark Brown
Using with Syren old tan rope - Gutermann 50wt CA02776 Polyester thread Color 512 - UNI-Thread 72D 8/0W Tan
Using with Syren new Ultra tan rope - Gutermann 50wt CA02776 Polyester thread Color 509 - also UNI-Thread 72D 8/0W Tan
 
Also, as Chuck had answered, the thread he uses for seizing and serving his new Ultra rope is as follows (I researched what actual size/diameter it is in wt and tex).
Ultra Brown rope - Gutermann Mara 150 50wt/20Tex  Color 682 or for smaller uses Mara 220 77wt/13Tex
Ultra Tan rope - Gutermann Mara 150 50wt/20Tex  Color 263 or for smaller uses Mara 220 77wt/13Tex
This is hard to find in the US, so Chuck recommended this place: https://www.williamgee.co.uk/product-tag/mara/
 
Erik
 

As always, thanks for the likes.  I do appreciate you all following along.  After all the metal work of making the chain plates, backstay plates, eye bolts, and deadeye strops, I decided I'd work on a relatively straight forward sub assembly.  I went ahead and installed the rudder, and gudgeons and pintels (I had shaped the rudder itself a couple of months ago).  I used Chuck's mini kit for those.  You have a choice in the mini kit of .010" thick paperboard material or .028" thick plywood.  I opted for the thicker plywood and sanded it down to .018" thick.  By my eye that's a good compromise.  I used .020" diameter styrene rod for the bolts.  Yes, yes, I know it's probably sacrilege among purists to use plastic on a wooden ship build.  Haha.  But since the bolt heads are covered in paint I chose the easier to cut and work with styrene rather than metal wire.  Everything was painted with black paint and then once mounted I taped the simulated metal straps off and applied rust brown weathering powder. I haven't glued the rudder on yet.  I'll do that at a later date after I drill the final hole to mount the tiller (I did drill a small pilot/locator hole though).  That said, the rudder sits correctly straight and true with the pintels snugged down into the gudgeons.
 
On a related note, I received the last few packages of blocks I'll need for the build, and a serving machine, from Chuck this week.  If I'm inventorying correctly, I think that may be the last stuff I need to complete the build.
 
Erik

I finished the deadeyes and deadeye strops this week.  And set a new personal record for the most discarded/rejected parts.  Haha.  I can laugh now, but at the time, it was the height of frustration.  I think to get the 8 usable deadeye strops shaped correctly and mounted, I wound up with an additional 15 or so I scrapped.  Admittedly most of that was trying to get the first couple formed.  Once I had a system down for shaping them, things went more smoothly.  I wound up chipping the paint off some of the chain plates, so had to touch that up.  And I wound up rubbing off the finish of the annealed wire I used for making the strops from handling too much, so had to blacken those again . . . which made a bit of a mess on the deadeyes from blackening smudges coming off of my fingers.  So, I had to re-sand some of the deadeyes to remove that.  All in all not the most fun part of the build.  So, I'm happy that buttons up Chapter 9 of Chuck's monograph, and I look forward to getting away from handling metal and back to working with wood for the next parts of the build!
 
Erik

Congratulations Stergios, she's looking fantastic.

Of course all these photos are not the finals but I'm very close to the end
Some final touch up and trimming is needed 
 

I think that is a very interesting custom made tool, that's why I'm presenting you in successive steps/pics my personal jig to form deck coils

And a couple od additional pics,,,
 




 

....  and now, please let me to present you some steps of my previous stages, "talking" more with those pics and less with words, as I usually do

Finished the second planking, then removed pins then re-drilled re added pins for adding third planks.
 

 

This again worked well, now have all with three planks each side and pins removed to start last set of planks.
 

 

Thanks guys for looking in and the likes.
 
Regards
Richard 

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Its scary to note that my last update was 9 months ago, much has dragged me away from keeping current with other's builds on this wonderful site, and making progress myself.  While not much, this brings me up to date.
 
Head Grating:
This caused much pondering!  Like everything, this had to be scratch built. and wasn't quite sure whether I could pull of the gracefully curved gratings that grace many period models.  In the end, this turned out to be a highly enjoyable little project.  The main framing elements were built following the layout and dimensions of previously assembled components.  The outside angled edge follows the curve of the main headrail, and the inside a foreshortened version.  No real secret other than use of lots of templates and continual trial fitting.  The larger framing elements were joined with a simple box joint for strength, the battens were individually shaped and glued end on.  Once completed, the front of the seats of ease were attached to simplify final installation.

Catheads, fo'c'sl plansheer and breasthook:
With the gratings finalised, it was possible to install the catheads with some confidence.  The breasthook was cut following dimension estimates from contemporary models (as much as possible) Prior to that however, the fo'c'sl plansheer was finalised, which required the underside where the catheads are located to be slightly angled to allow for the upward slope of the cathead given the overlap of the plansheer, and to ensure it sits flat.

Timberheads:
It was necessary t get my head around how I was going shape the timberheads, and figure out what was possible, so that I could both get some practice in shaping these and maximise the chance that these could be kept consistent and of an acceptable appearance.  I did not want to have to redo the head rails as these had taken many hours to make.  After some experimentation, the following approach seemed to provide the most consistent results for me.  2x5mm pear was used.
 
From left to right:
Preventer cuts were carefully made using a jig and #12 Exacto blade The edges were cut back gently to roughly preform the shape.  I found the wood surface had a tendency to break off even with care so there were losses.  Wipe on poly was applied at the cuts at this stage to both prove better visibility for further shaping, and also to harden the edges that had been formed The sloped  faces were further refined, again carefully using a #12 Exacto blade, sanding sticks and microfiles.  The top is deliberately made a little overlong as it makes shaping easier The top is reduced to final dimension... The overall height is reduced to final dimensions (in this case 10mm) Finalisation and installation of the main rail and grating:
The main rail could now be finally dimension and shaped.  As identified in TFFM, it did prove necessary to shape for rear outside profile to ensure it fits nicely to the cathead.  I couldn't find much in the way of detail here, but the AOTS Diana book shows a slight wedge of wood sitting between the hull and the head rail.  I decided to add two small wedges to ensure the headrail is fully secured to the hull.  The plansheer also had to be nicked to allow it to sit properly.

And with everything finally installed...I am greatly relieved and pleased with the way this has turned out as this proved to be a most challenging, but ultimately satisfying, adventure.  The fore seats of ease have been made up and will ultimate slot into the grating, but these will not be installed until the placement of the boomkins is determined as everything is very tight in this small area.

April 8th: The new pivot gun tracks were primed, painted, glued down (had to order a bottle of CA), painted some more.  The guns barrels are painted, detailed, and clear-coated (no pic of that yet).  The carriages are primed, but not painted yet.  They'll be painted olive like the previous set of gun carriages.

The new field carriage for the boat-howitzer also got painted, and after some clear-coat, will go to it's home in the stern-sheets of the launch.
(sorry for the poor images)

With longer days, and warmer weather, progress has slowed down as my focus has shifted a bit to being outdoors more as spring arrives.  I do still work on Cheerful daily though.  I'm working on the chain plates.  As with the backstay plates, I cut strips out of a 6" x 12" brass sheet.  I then cut the 8 chain plates longer than needed.  Next I shaped the tops of all 8.  Being my first ship build, I had to do some research when I got to Chuck's instructions, "Assuming this isn't your first ship model, the angles for each chain plate were found in the usual way."  Glenn (glbarlow) had some good photos in his Cheerful build log that show how to rig a temporary mast to get the desired chain plate angles.  I made a jig to get the rake of the mast correct, when compared to the plans.  Then I secured the mast in place with temporary fore and aft stays.  The simulated shrouds are tied off at the correct height and spacing on the mast.  Knowing the chain plates are not exactly the same length this process was key to do before I cut them to length and drilled the lower 2 holes on each chain plate.  I have the port side chain plates finished more or less (they do still need a little tweaking).  Each one is marked on the back for which position it belongs in.
 
Erik

It's all just sitting there, nothing's glued down yet, until it's actually painted.  A pic with, and without flash.  I need to watch those white-balance videos someone posted here at MSW.

The slides for the new guns are shorter than what was on the model, so new tracks had to be modeled, printed, and reprinted a little.

The old tracks had to be removed and the scars sanded off the deck.  Then the finish reapplied.  Meantime the guns and tracks were primed.

Looking at the drawing I bought from the Fishing museum in Lunenburg it shows how the planks overlapped at the middle station, then at each end they butt up so to hold plank in place I drilled holes in the jig so that it would overlap in middle and butt up at ends, started with three wood posts which was not enough so added two more, then I broke the wood posts so change them to brass tube..
 


Shape was good so have cut all sixteen planks now started the production.
Got two glued and they have come out pretty good.




Have been using this glue on all my wood gluing and it works great.
 

 

 
Thanks for all the comments and likes, until next time.
 
Regards
Richard
 

I finished the 10 inch Dahlgren.  I didn't model the gun's breech as it was in Dahlgrens drawing.  It looked like he left the breech of the Columbiad from the Traverse Carriage drawing and made the rest of it look like his 10" gun.  I know Rodman guns were made with that sort of breech, but I can't find drawings of a Dahlgren like that.  Dahlgren's patent drawings don't show that sort of breech either.
The slide, while just like the one in the Mississippi plan, is shorter and wider; this will mean reworking the deck tracks on Constellation; but It also means it'll fits the space better, with more room for moving the gun about, as well as fitting on my hatches better.

The print came out great except for one wheel on the back-left of the slide.  I can replace that, and fix the pallet around it easily enough, so it's not a "failed print."
 
The second gun printed better, it didn't lose any wheels

Hello, pictures March 2013:
 
 

I started a "build log" just for this Naval Gun project, here as well as on my website, mainly to not clutter Constellation's log with all this non-pertinent gun stuff.
But one gun I'm working on brings me back here, as it may mean a change to the Constellation model.
 
I'm modeling a 10 inch Dahlgren on a pivot carriage and it got me thinking about Constellation's "10 inch guns on pivot carriages."
The Mississippi plan, dated June 23 1855 shows a 10" gun of 86cwt (8600 pounds).  The ship's restoration folks presume that Constellation got the same thing because they looked for a 10" pivot gun at the Archives, and that's the plan they found.

Constellation was launched on August 26 1854, and commissioned on July 28 1855.
Dahlgren's drawing, on-the-other-hand, is from July 31 1850, 5 years prior, and refers to the pivot gun simply as a "10 inch gun on pivot carriage."

Without any documentation stating exactly which 10 inch pivot gun the ship was issued, how do I know?
Furthermore, a 10 inch Dahlgren tube weighed 12,000 pounds, 3,400 pounds more than the Mississippi gun.  When the ship was leaving for the African Station on July 15 1859, her captain felt the pivot guns were too heavy, too high, and made the ship "crank," so had them taken off.  I can't help but think that would be a concern regarding a pair of 12,000 pound guns compared to a pair of 8,600 pound guns.

I'm trying to find out where any records regarding what guns were issued to what ships would be, and if I can access them, but at the moment, I'm personally leaning toward replacing Constellation's pivot guns with 10 inch Dahlgren pivots.
Here's the 3D models of the 10 inch Dahlgren (still a WIP), the Mississippi gun, and both together.