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piratepete007

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Posts posted by piratepete007

  1. Well shipmates, this will be a very different post to the usual. Full of suggestions and alternative approaches. So hang on !

     

    The Euromodel Derfflinger is a Dutch fluyt (pronounced 'flight')

     

    The fluyts are different to ships used in Europe in the seventeenth century with:

              a lowered quarter deck, and

              a pronounced round shaped-hull. Their dimensions were long and

               the long hulls had a very narrow cross-section compared to other square-sailed vessels.

     

    They were first produced in 1595 with square sails on their foremast and main mast and a lateen spanker on the mizzen mast. These vessels were requiring only a small crew to operate them and had the advantage of being cheap to build. Pieter J. Lioorne-Hoorn (Holland) is credited with their design with the first feluccas built in Lubecca, Germany in 1618. The last one was built around 1780. The ‘Friede’ felucca, as an example was built in Berlin in the dockyards of Berlin in 1682 – its length was 32 metres.

     

    ‘Derfflinger’ had two decks. Towards the bow was located the galley and areas for the storage of munitions, food and water. Below these areas was the stone ballast. Towards the stern, there were medium-size cannons and the compass. The forecastle generally contained four cannons, as did the stern area and quarter deck.

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  2. I have discovered a real gem.

     

    Euromodel have a 'fleet' of large ships that require a fair degree of skill and interpretation which I find challenging and 'just what the doctor ordered'.  I unearthed a smaller ship of theirs which has largely gone un-noticed by most builders. It offers almost all the challenges presented by the larger ships, is much cheaper and allows the enthusiast contemplating some of the Euromodel ships as the Royal William or the Friederich Wilhelm zi Pferde a chance to quickly gain an insight into what the plans are all about. Its smaller size means that you can go through any constructional stage more quickly - right through the hull construction and up to the detailed sails.

     

    Anybody interested in seeing this post ? If so, the text and photos will be presented with many, many points being open-ended for you to make your own choices. A little different to what is normally posted.

     

    Pete

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  3. Hans - just an early piece of advice. Much has been said in other logs about how difficult it is to bend the metal castings provided. My experience with a number of Euromodel ships and the long metal stern gallery-type windows is that they come pre-curved and IF your build in this area is correct, then they require very little, if any, further bending/ curving !  That is the simple truth of the matter. I have recently finished fitting (but not fixing) the myriad of metal pieces on the Falmouth stern and they all went together like clockwork and I just sat back in amazement. I knew the pieces were going to fit and so was open to making small adjustments to the shape of timbers surrounding them.

     

    To achieve this, during the build I just kept measuring and re-measuring (and re-measuring) the various heights above the keel at the stern as well as taking into account the widths between decks. Not at all difficult but just time consuming. Plan Sheet 2 shows a longitudinal section from bow to stern but I had to keep reminding myself that this is for a scratch build so I had to take into account slight differences in deck thickness and various other nuances. It was just a matter of being totally in tune with the drawings.

     

    I think it is helpful to know that the pieces will/ do fit.

     

    Pete

  4. Richard, both kits extend your skills and both are begging for your own variations.  Personally, out of the two, if I had to choose, then I would go for the Falmouth due to a number of factors. For example, the stern construction requires some interesting thinking (which I have written about) and the fact that it has a 'Sun Deck' for overhead protection whilst working in the tropics. Those two points make it a great project. It is distinctly different. But there again, that applies to all the Euromodel ships .....

    Pete

  5. Nigel, my notes on the Euromodel website for the  LaRenommee need some updating and adding to so I will be looking forward to your comments during the build - and any helpful criticism on what I have done so far. It is a beautiful and different ship, so enjoy.

    Pete

  6. Ponto - great to read that you have purchased the Euromodel LeRenommee. I am currently working on the Euromodel Friederich Wilhelm zu Pferde (a German frigate) which is full of surprises and challenges and that is what you will experience with your French ship. This is the sleekest ship from their 'stable' and like all of their models, the challenges will be aplenty. I have posted construction notes for some of the hull construction on their website. Good luck.

    Pete

  7. DO YOU LIVE IN ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA ? ... if so, please read on.

     

    I have been approached by a lady who has a complete re-rigging of a ship and I do not have the time to do it. I believe she is more than happy to pay whatever it costs to do this task so if anybody out there can help, please, please,let me know. The ship is important to her and her brother and they come from a LONG line of sea-fearing captains. So, all in all, it sounds like a very interesting project.

     

    Pete

  8. Amfibius - you have raised a number of points in your recent posting and as always, great for discussions. I guess we can pick out little points in kits from all manufacturers. I would be saddened if this forum turned into a kit 'bashing' rather than the sharing of ideas and concerns. The notes are useful and I know you have been reading them but you have to have the kit in your hands to appreciate it. I will pass on the concerns that I read to Euromodel - but I am not on their payroll.

     

    The beakhead at the bow supporting the head rails is laser cut so not sure what was intended there. Were you referring to the quarter galleries at the stern ? If so, as you build the ship, you would find that laser cutting would be of little use in a 3D carving.

     

    Regarding the price factor, I spoke to Euromodel a few minutes ago and this is an unfortunate aspect of market pricing out of the hands of Euromodel. The prices are highly inflated making other brands more attractive but there is an attractive option - purchase direct from them from their on-line shop. I did this and it was a seamless exercise. They also tell me that they will have a phenomenal sale in mid-March.

     

    Brian C - what was supplied for the deck planking of the Royal William was good quality walnut but I chose to use Tanganyika which is a much lighter timber ... and so we go on.

     

    Puckotred - I guess this is where the MSW is valuable because concerns by individuals can grow out of all proportion. Have a look at the stern of the Euromodel Pinco Genovese. The kit does include metal decorations.

     

    Pete

     

     

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  9. Fair comment Brian but almost a contradiction of sorts. Euromodel kits have always been seen as more than a standard kit build (I have always thought of them as 'quasi scratch' builds). It is for that very reason I began writing these files as I realized there was a gap out there for kit builders wanting to build a Euromodel ship. I thank you for describing my notes as 'excellent' although I often revisit them to re-write them ! In the light of these notes, then, I agree prospective builders need some experience (not really half a dozen builds as you suggest) but it is my hope that the notes will guide people through the necessary  steps. I have done/ are doing the necessary interpretations of the drawings and have recorded my results for all to see. That must make it easier.

    Pete

  10. If you guys are interested, go to the Euromodel website homepage, look at the files under "Customer Assistance' or even better, once you have looked at that, download their free app 'FreeReady, and automatically receive any new updates which I post - they generally occur every two to three weeks covering many ships.

    Pete

  11. Thanks Jean-Pierre. We are on the same wavelength about anchors but in the light of a thorough amount of commentary over the last 24 hours, what more can be said ?. In the end, it comes down to the degree of excellence shown by any one builder. Some are more excellent than others ! The more excellent the builder, like yourself, the more that person will question. I come back to the point that at least Euromodel in their drawings not only show the anchors but include actual dimensions. I think that that is the critical point. Appreciate seeing the evidence in those photos !

    Pete

     

    PS Maybe somebody can start up a new post because as Nigel said, the original topic for this thread has been well and truly covered ?

  12. Amfibius - downloading my pdf's onto a tablet, reading in bed and dreaming about ships - you do have a problem (just joking !). I see Euromodel have a free app called FeedReady which will notify you of any updates that I have posted, so that should keep you going !

     

    That horseman on the transom is one little challenge as you will have seen. Do you draw the figure and paint it in or do you carve it in 3D like I did ? That is the beauty of Euromodel ships which keep presenting alternative approaches. So it will be with the windows and lanterns and as you say, brass strips etc would be useful for the lanterns. Not something I have tried to do as yet.

     

    Happy dreaming

     

    Pete

    PS apologies for any flippancy !

  13. Thanks for that Amfibius. Maybe I get carried away with things at times but I just feel that if I can pass on some ideas to other builders, then I am a 'Happy Little Vegemite' - apologies to non-Australians, but Vegemite is a distinctly Australian spread over toast that we just love. Now back to ship stuff. I have never posted an actual build log as such but am content to build up reference files on the Euromodel website (and like Nigel, I am not on their payroll). I will definitely pass on your comments re photoetching to Euromodel.

     

    Friederich Wilhelm or Royal William I hear you say ? Both are equally impressive to build. The Royal William would be the cream of English builds and the Friederich Wilhelm has so many different twists and turns that are not your standard comfort things to do. That is not to say that it is any more difficult but it is different. Neither are cheap BUT the investment in time spent and overall quality is rock solid.... and their are other different styled ships as well.

     

    Pete

  14. Having decided not to build the ship's boats for the Euromodel Friederich Wilhelm, I 'undecided' that ! Bar constructing the actual hull from scratch, I examined the white resin hull provided and whilst the actual depth is far from perfect, the final build would not show this. The interior section immediately adjacent to the bow and stern was far too thick but easily reduced in size with my Dremel and a small grinding tool.  It was like carving butter ! The end result I am happy with and all I need to do now is to teach myself a dry brushing technique to make it look old and weathered and all will be fine. Should I have painted the hull interior first ? Well, that was my choice not to so that photographic illustrations would be enhanced. This little project was such a diversion from normal ship building and I am glad that I did do it.

     

    The full description is contained in my latest posting for the Wilhelm on the Euromodel website under 'Customer Assistance' - FW.INT.04.v8

    Pete

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