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stevenmh

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About stevenmh

  • Birthday 04/07/1954

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Haydenville, MA
  • Interests
    Tall ships, history, astronomy, photography

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  1. I'm anxiously awaiting the cross-section as well - the scale should hopefully be easier on my aging eyes than the HO-scale Constitution cross-section I did.
  2. Art - did you use the Marikate On and Off Bottom Cleaner alone to blacken the Britannia, or was it in combination with something else?
  3. Does Birchwood Casey Brass Black work to blacken Britannia metal as well as brass? If not, do they make a pewter blackener (I've Googled it, but with no success). If not, what would you recommend for Britannia metal? I've read through this forum and am still not sure of the answer.
  4. Some good progress recently - finished staining any poly'g the deck and touching up some of the red paint. Painted the hull (actually I just watched, the Admiral was bored enough during this lock-down to tackle that task). Finished reconstructing the stern and started on the hatches and deck fixtures. I will wait to finish those before installing the bulwarks. About time to transfer operations from the winter dungeon to summer quarters in the unheated, but window-filled garage!
  5. I used Minwax stainable wood filler, which was easily painted over. If you are not going to paint you might need to find a filler that matches the color of the wood. I think Elmers makes filler of different colors.
  6. I'm sure there are easier ways to make square corners for the deck structures, but I'm not sure exactly how...
  7. here is the relevant section of the spreadsheet: PCT Size mm size " Size to Buy mm MAINMAST - LOWER Fore tackle pendant 60% 0.797 0.032 Tackles 30% 0.398 0.016 Shrouds 62% 0.823 0.033 0.8 Lanyards 30% 0.398 0.016 0.4 Stay 100% 1.328 0.053 Stay Collar 92% 1.222 0.049 Lanyard 30% 0.398 0.016 Preventer Stay 60% 0.797 0.032 Preventer Stay Collar 60% 0.797 0.032 Lanyard 23% 0.305 0.012 MAIN - TOPMAST Burton Pendants 34% 0.452 0.018 Tackles 17% 0.226 0.009 Futtock Staves 62% 0.823 0.033 Futtock Shrouds 20% 0.266 0.011 0.25 Topmast Shrouds 33% 0.438 0.018 0.4 Lanyard 17% 0.226 0.009 0.25 Backstays 42% 0.558 0.022 0.5 Lanyard 20% 0.266 0.011 0.25 Topmast Stay 51% 0.677 0.027 Lanyard 21% 0.279 0.011 Topmast Preventer Stay 37% 0.491 0.020 Lanyard 18% 0.239 0.010 MAIN T'GALLANT MAST Futtock Staves 33% 0.438 0.018 Futtock Shrouds 17% 0.226 0.009 0.25 Topgalland Shrouds 17% 0.226 0.009 0.25 Lanyard 8% 0.106 0.004 0.1 Backstays 22% 0.292 0.012 0.3 Lanyard 10% 0.133 0.005 0.12 Topgallant Stay 25% 0.332 0.013 0.3 Royal Backstays 10% 0.133 0.005 0.12 Lanyard 5% 0.066 0.003 0.08 Royal Stays 13% 0.173 0.007
  8. I used that spreadsheet I posted a while back and then just scaled it down - in another spread sheet: Constitution RIGGING DIAMETERS.xlsx
  9. While waiting for my tons of wood filler to dry and be sanded and dry and be sanded ... I decided I really did not like the way the stern looked, so here is my first try at re-inventing it. I will need to trim and paint a bit more, but am first going to glue on the side fashion pieces. Original attempt 2nd try - the walnut planks (left over from my Constitution) will be poly'd to look more like mahogany)
  10. I replaced it all - if you look closely at Chuck's rope you will see it really looks like heavy duty rope with the turnings and all. Both standing and running rigging vary in diameter depending on where it is being used, so, for example, the backstays supporting the main mast are thicker than those supporting the top mast, which are thicker than those supporting the t'gallant mast... Likewise for the running rigging There is some useful information and a spreadsheet in the articles section of this website - I also made one of my own for this ship. Since the rigging diameters are calculated first as a % of the main mast diameter for the main stay and the rest as a % of the main stay, this can be converted for any ship. The ropes of the lower jeer block on the right go through the wrong hole - RIGGING DIAMETERS.xlsx
  11. I replaced all the blocks, deadeyes and cordage with parts from Syren Ship Model Company - I even used Chuck's build-it-yourself double sheave block kits to make the triple sheave jeer blocks! His parts made a big improvement on the kit furnished materials. (ignore the rigging error - it eventually got corrected)
  12. Thanks to you both for the timely encouragement. I actually never quite gave up the ship, but have been frustrated with my efforts. Even when I felt I had measured thrice and then again before cutting or gluing, the results have been problematic. Often, as with the hull planking, I did not realize things were off until much later when the mistakes mounted up. For instance, blocking out where the coamings would go - looks ok to the eye, but eventually when I did the deck planking I noticed there were places where the tops of the blocking was not exactly level with the bulkheads, so the planks, especially where there were joints, would have a dip in them. The coamings themselves - despite measuring several times from the center bulkhead former - sometimes ended up being off center and more often than not were not square. I had debated whether to build them first off the model or to jut cut the lengths and glue the parts directly on the model. I chose the latter, but next time will try to make them off the boat first, make sure they are really really square and glue the complete parts in place. This flaw became highly visible when laying down the deck planks. On the other hand, some of the wood working I'm pretty proud of: At any rate, here is where things stand now, deck is done and now it is time to run through a bunch of sandpaper and wood filler, then on to the bulwarks and waterline.
  13. Two planks left to go on the starboard side: One Plank left - uh, Houston, we have a problem: Brain trust work around: Mission Accomplished!??
  14. So lessons learned as demonstrated by the above photos: 1 - when taking photos of the early stages of a planking job, and particularly before you've started sanding, never place your lighting source directly above the hull. Makes every irregularity jump out in high relief. 2 - I tried 2 different ways to determine the dimensions and shape of the planks - a) scribing the shape of one side from the shape of the edge of the preceding plank with an old architectural compass and then adding the width of the plank at each bulkhead to get the line for the upper edge; b) assuming the edge of the previous plank is straight and measuring up from that line to the correct width at each bulkhead. I used method "a" for the first band below the wales and found it very difficult since it meant that both edges of the plank would need to be trimmed and tapered, and my cutting skills with an Xacto knife and metal straight-edge were not really up to the task; it also meant that one mistake in cutting accurately got amplified with each succeeding course of planks. So I went with method "b" (and an excess of glue, as you can see). Oh, and I made sure the task light was off to the side when I took the photos, not above the model.

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