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About stevenmh

  • Birthday 04/07/1954

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Haydenville, MA
  • Interests
    Tall ships, history, astronomy, photography

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  1. Thanks. I got the Pride of Baltimore so I could learn about planking a hull, so I think I will do that one next. I have some ideas about how to improve on the Model Expo deck gun kit (show some deck framing, add a hatch/grating?), and I may work on that at the same time. Hopefully by the time I do those I will feel confident enough to move on the the Syren, and after that, hopefully, the cross section Chuck is designing now at Syren Ship Models.
  2. Never thought I'd actually be able to say this, but... Finis Fin Done -30- Now to learn planking
  3. Thank you all for the likes and crucial advise on this long, drawn-out effort. EJ, I wish I had made the decision about the gun port lines before I glued them on - I expect it would be a lot easier to attach the wires if I had drilled some holes through the doors first. Oh well, the learning curve continues
  4. Down to the devilish details. I finally realized it would be easier to tie off some of the lines I want to look as though they had some slack in them if I glued them in one of the blocks. More coils done; since some of the lines are attached to the shrouds I debated whether to make coils for them as well - finally decided what the heck... I'm still debating whether to add some wire to the gun ports to mimic the ropes holding them up.. Just a few more lines and coils, the gun port doors on the unpainted side, gluing to the base (and the hatch grating if time permits) and it is off to the Northeast Ship Model Clubs meeting in New London Saturday
  5. Gun port doors Rope coil jig with built-in loop to hang the coils A couple of finished products
  6. Thanks all for the likes and comments - getting down to the last of the rigging and figuring out the rope coils. Gun ports being fabricated by The Admiral - a former carpenter; will post pictures when she says they're done...
  7. Standing rigging done; working on the running rigging from the bottom up, except for the falls of the braces (the plans for this thing are a bit wacky in some regards) and the topsail lifts - I want to do those last so I have room to work at the pin rails. tying off the ropes at the belaying pins continues to be a challenge. Once the rigging is done I need to make the doors for the main gun ports - don't like the metal ones that came with the kit, and I need to make them out of holly on the side of the ship I am not painting, and the hatch gratings. Then I need to figure out how to attach it to the base (epoxy??) and how to transport it to New London in 2 weeks!
  8. A lack of posts does not mean a lack of progress - just a lack of time if I want to finish in time for the Ship Model Conference at the end of April Cannonade, main chains and main shrouds in place I also had to make the white steps(?) for the side of the ship I am leaving unpainted Spaghetti farm has migrated to the main top, particularly since I have installed the lift blocks and all the line that goes with them to the masthead. One issue I am having is with the deadeyes for the top mast - the upper ones tend to pivot in relation to the lower sets. Any suggestions how to cure that?
  9. Now that I am getting near to completing the hull, I can start on finishing the yards and starting to rig them and the ship. I've added the holly on the outside of the gun deck to simulate the white-painted strip on the hull - will need to fabricate gun ports of the same wood. You can also see the cut back channel and main chains. I've attached the blocks for the falls of the truss: And I've made the cleats and strops to go at the masthead to attach the pendants for the jeer blocks.
  10. I looked up the Proxxon on ebay - they go for north of $200, which is a little steep for me at the moment. Using the "updated" setup, I have managed to finish the spars for my cross section - was particularly worried about the topgallant mast and royal yard, bit managed a reasonable product. Clearly before starting my next build I will have to rethink this - by then maybe I will have found a lathe at a reasonable price, or at the least figured out how to install a dimmer.
  11. Forging on - here is the updated version of my poor-man's lathe - works better, but I'm still nervous when I get to the thinner parts - however the main and topsail yards and main studs'l booms have been successfully constructed. Spar deck is framed and now just needs the port side to be planked, then on to the masts and spars. Given the configuration of the gun deck, especially the cannon that is run in, I don't think putting in the 2 ladders will work - especially as they are in the plans, running port to starboard. Running them fore and aft probably also won't work, so I am going to try to use the materials provided, particularly the risers, to make a grating or two for the hatch. I also am thinking about changing the positions of the deadeyes - the channels that came with the kit place the fore-most deadeyes so that the lanyards cross over the carronade gunports and the chains have to take a severe turn to avoid the gun deck gunports. I'd just shift them back, but did not really realize this until after I had glued the channels onto the hull, so I will have to give this some more thought - thoughts and photos to come. I've begun to add blocks to the main yard - using some of the stuff I've seen on this sight the first 2 were a lot easier than I'd dare to hope, but that could also be because they are 4 & 5 mm blocks, not the 2.5-3mm ones I was suffering over for the gun tackles. The upper yards will tell - I'll just spend some time enjoying these victories. The footropes will be made with 28 gauge wire, so hopefully they will not take too long either. I have not had great love for the blocks that came with the kit, so as you might be able to tell from the above photo, I've gone to Chuck/Syren Ship Model Company to be rescued - I've even combined his single and double 'make-your-own' blocks to make the triple block for the main jeers. You can see the quality difference below - kit blocks still in the bag, Chuck's on the bottom - they still have to be sanded and rounded, but still...

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