Wintergreen

Hi 🙂
 
Work to the bov cant frame

Hi, and tanks, Bruce 🙂
 
 

Hi
The Keelson
 

Hi 🙂

Hi 🙂

Hi, I start the construction of a new model, it is the English frigate Euryalus, the scale that I adopt is 1:56, the usual 74 cannons🙂

Hi 🙂

This weekend I have been doing channels. Very fiddly if you ask me. To  make them sturdy I drilled two holes on the back side towards the hull in which I put two nails backwards into the edge of the channel. Then I gently pushed the channels towards the hull to create a small punch mark. I drilled 0.7 mm holes as guidance. This way it is possible to try out the correct position. Twice I actually drilled new holes 2-3 mm aside to get a better position. Anyhow the edge of the channel hides the old holes.
 

 
Best regards
 
Henrik

Thanks for all the kind comments.
 
HH - the transom planking is indeed let into the aft fashion piece. The side planking is also let into the fore end of the this fashion piece. Needless to say it is a beast to make with two rebates and rolling bevels! But when done this way the end grain of the transom and side planks are both protected from seawater. Some contemporary models show it done this way and some don't but the NMM model we based this on did.
 
BE - that is indeed a pisdale which seems a bit unusual but is a feature of the contemporary model. It has a molded feature that is a continuation of the molding of the inner planking.
 
Wintergreen - I'm sure David would love to collaborate with every single member of this forum...when his plate is empty (estimate 2032).
 
Trussben - haven't rigged a model in 25 years so looking forward to that. I'm studying the work of Archjofo and hope to emulate his work.

Good morning,
before I start television yesterday evening, I had a look into the 2. volume of the Rogers Collection. And there it was, in 1719 the channels had a lower position and therefor an other form. Jaager you where right with your first though.
 

 
In this case the fore channels where broader in front and the main channels at the aft end to get sure that the shrouds are clear with the ships side. The real Centurion was build that way, but the model was build in 1747 and the modellers build it in the way that was used then. The channels over the ports of the upper gun deck. 
 
The channels are now parallel to the ships side, or as the centurion shows a little narrower in the front or back. In this case I take the measurements from the establishment list only for the largest width of them.

Hello and thank for your likes,
@ Jaager, thank you for your efforts. I don't think that your first thought is the solution. You would't see it at any model. Your second thought is may be the solution, but why did they give the wide only for the middle part of the ship.
 
I think that the given measurements are the widest part of the channels. If that is true also in 1745 is an other question. The mizzen channels are parallel to the ships side, there is given only a wide for the whole thing. 
 
I found a drawing in Lavery's Ship of the Line I, the Centurion at page 71-72
 

 
That is what I thought was the meaning with design. To follow the lines of the ship. Ok, I would made the channels at the main mast to the aft end at least 4,8mm, so narrower then in the front. The measurements are from the drawing.
 
This are the fore and main channels from the Centurion. That model was build ca. 1745, 
 

 

 
and her the same from the 60 gunner with no name
 

 

 
I'm sorry, but I haven't better pictures. I did't know at that time that it would be important. But with a little good will you could see that the fore channels are to the front narrower and the same for the main channels to the back.
 
I made some channels to look how much space is from the shrouds to the ships side, and I think there is much space. Even when the shrouds come in a little more. Here the channels have the same wide in the front and back. So I think I could made them to the front/back a little narrower to get that arch and follow the ships lines.
 

 

 

 

With Speedwell back in her home port I can commence the rigging. I have not sat idly by during her absence though and have fully prepared her masts and spars to expedite rigging upon her return. I will be using ropes and tackle made by Chuck as they are the finest commercially available in my opinion. As well I will be using Johann's excellent Creole log for inspiration. All the masting, sparring and rigging is fully described in volume two of the Speedwell series so I won't be going into quite as much detail as previously. As my last rigged model was constructed over twenty years ago I expect to proceed at a glacial pace. For me the process is more enjoyable than looking at the finished product.
 
In the photo below one can see the unusual tops which are present on the contemporary model. I found them aesthetically unpleasing and have constructed the more traditional top I am used to seeing. If anyone can cite a contemporary model with the original tops constructed as per Speedwells I would appreciate a photo.
 

It has been a very long time since my last post, progress is at snail pace but at least things are moving along.
 
I had some equipment issues: My Dremel moto saw suddenly died. It had 8 years of continuous hard use. I opened it, cleaned it, repacked the bearings with grease and put it back together. Still dead. I suspect the brushes are gone but I thought best to get another one. I like it very much due to small footprint and the ability to take side cutting blades.

The garboard planks are in place, so I started work on the first broad plank. It is much easier to use scarfed planks than very long single piece ones and I will stagger the scarfs.
So here it goes:




So far, the time invested on the 3D plans pays off. The distances seem identical on both sides and the two plank halves are identical.

Planking continues



I switched to 1 mm card, much better than the 2 mm I was using




The plank halves are not too curved and I don't think they ll get any worse. They would have needed very narrow blanks.



Now, I am paying much more attention cutting the plank in this boat than I did on the Launch. The planks are sanded to line, with the disc sander on the convex edge, with hand on the concave edge. The result is very close fitting planks so far:

The twist at the bow is pretty acute, I hope it is not going to get worse. Just wetting the beech though is enough to get the wood to fall into place. Interestingly, I had to trim the second frame a bit for the plank to sit nicely, exactly the same area that I had problem during my lofting. 


The beauty of the hull slowly starts to emerge


I used a sander to trim the bow end of the second plank, much more accurate result

It is getting there slowly

With the hand held belt sander, the scarfs are very easy to make

The bow twist is indeed significant
And a final photo, boats are beautiful things.

Till next time
 
Vaddoc

Dear all
It has been 2 months since my last post, I have not had the time to work on the boat or even to catch up with your logs. I will try to though, in the meantime I do hope that you are doing well!
Today though I did visit the shipyard and did some work-and had a nasty surprise.
 
I am still not certain how I will secure the planks, whether I ll use threaded brass wire, treenails or bras pins. I experimented with 0.55 mm brass pins, nailed against a steel surface. The tips bend exactly as they should and hold the planks very securely. I think however the pin heads are out of scale.





I finished the starboard garboard, the planks are secured with brass pins 0.6 mm through 0,5 mm pilot holes. The scarf is glued for now but some form of reinforcement nailing or screwing will go on. As I am not sure what I will use to fasten the planks to the ribs, I just cut the pins leaving a length so I can pull them out later as these are the temporary frames.
 




Then I started work on the port side. Disaster...
A few days ago, I needed a small piece of wood so I just broke a segment from a scrap piece I found on the bench. yep, that was the plank!

I used the broken pieces to recreate the plank and thankfully, with a bit of sanding it came out fine. Then, I secured it in place


The ends at the bow will need to be trimmed, I think I ve put the nails very close to the trimming line-we ll see.


Till next time
 
vaddoc

Who wouldn't want a collaborator like David, just Wow! 🙂 

Doris, 
Regarding the Riksäpplet study, if there is something I know, that would be Swedish... pm me if there is something you want translated.

Thank for watching and thanks for all likes. Some more decoration on the stern.

 
Best regards
 
Henrik

Have been working on bits and pieces over the week. I added gun lids to upper gun deck, some decoration to the quarter gallery and the balcony railing on the stern. The balcony railing was fiddly but finally I got it in place.

 

 
Best regards
Henrik

Hello,
now the port lids at the port side have there rings. But the lids are nor fast installed, that will come after I have the channels ready.
 

Hello and thank you for your nice comments and likes
 
The first port lids are in place, but not fast now. It's quiet a different sight now. Tomorrow I will install the rings, and then the other side the same procedure. 
 

Hello, and thank you all for your comments and likes
It took three weeks to dare to paint again, I do not like it very much 😟 But at least it is done. Marc, I hope you sleep better this time 😉
But now it's done and the next thing is to install the gun port lids. 
 

 

 

 

Excellent paintwork on the frieze, just wow!
 
Keep it up!

So for a test built it went fair enough. Many firsts for me, and many back and forths. A lot of improvement happened, and as usual, the next built will improve on the previous one. Here is on my hand for scale. I may revisit the thread if I make a new base as originally planed. 

Unfortunatelly this was the last photo before the "finished" ship or at least the current state of the diorama. I made a simple base with only sea. The rigging is seen almost finished. I used thread and melted spruce as well, especially in the deadeyes, which were also made from scratch. The guns are from my stash. 

Thanks Bill, Ian, Mort and Per for nice comments and good suggestions. I think I now know. A look at some other Agamemnon build logs gave me some clues and a good look at one of the rigging plans solved it. The chess tree piece with its slot, which in reality has a sheave or pulley wheel in it is for the main sail tack. I have now glued it in place as shown below and cut off the top. The tacks which are to be fixed on the inside of upper gun deck need to be fixed before main deck is laid. I have to remember that!

 

 
Best regards
 
Henrik