kruginmi

On to the bibs.  One lesson learned I have taken to heart is when working with a complex mating surface (ie non straight) I do not cut the whole part to shape and hope for the best.  I always have to file a little here, scrape a little there with the result being the constructed piece is just a little 'off' on one face or another.  This is especially true for me for stems.
 
So, I focus on one edge at a time, starting with the mating edge required.  The target shape was cut out of the mast join and then (supposedly) transferred to the oversized piece and cut out:
 

 
Once the join was satisfactory I marked and cut out the top edge, insuring it totally aligned with the bib top on the mast.
 

 
Now the curving part is easy (compared to the rest).  The curves where drawn out, cut and sanded.  Before gluing I produced the other bib piece (marking the finished one with which side it belongs to FIRST).  Replicating the curve was much easier piece to piece off ship.  After all that work (maybe two hours in the workshop) I glued the bib pieces on.
 

 
Looking at the plans for  the two thousandth time afterwards I did realize the bibs were not only supposed to support the top beam but also slightly go into the topmast space.  Initially you wonder how the heck that happened.  I finally opted to laminate a 1/32" piece of basswood on the inside face for this issue.  The top will be painted (black) and it will be basically invisible (unless pointed out, which I try not to do).  So, reprieve and lesson learned for the next mast down the road.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Mark,
 
nice clean work on Hull and masting, this will be a very good looking cross section
 
Nils

On to the bibs.  One lesson learned I have taken to heart is when working with a complex mating surface (ie non straight) I do not cut the whole part to shape and hope for the best.  I always have to file a little here, scrape a little there with the result being the constructed piece is just a little 'off' on one face or another.  This is especially true for me for stems.
 
So, I focus on one edge at a time, starting with the mating edge required.  The target shape was cut out of the mast join and then (supposedly) transferred to the oversized piece and cut out:
 

 
Once the join was satisfactory I marked and cut out the top edge, insuring it totally aligned with the bib top on the mast.
 

 
Now the curving part is easy (compared to the rest).  The curves where drawn out, cut and sanded.  Before gluing I produced the other bib piece (marking the finished one with which side it belongs to FIRST).  Replicating the curve was much easier piece to piece off ship.  After all that work (maybe two hours in the workshop) I glued the bib pieces on.
 

 
Looking at the plans for  the two thousandth time afterwards I did realize the bibs were not only supposed to support the top beam but also slightly go into the topmast space.  Initially you wonder how the heck that happened.  I finally opted to laminate a 1/32" piece of basswood on the inside face for this issue.  The top will be painted (black) and it will be basically invisible (unless pointed out, which I try not to do).  So, reprieve and lesson learned for the next mast down the road.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

On to the bibs.  One lesson learned I have taken to heart is when working with a complex mating surface (ie non straight) I do not cut the whole part to shape and hope for the best.  I always have to file a little here, scrape a little there with the result being the constructed piece is just a little 'off' on one face or another.  This is especially true for me for stems.
 
So, I focus on one edge at a time, starting with the mating edge required.  The target shape was cut out of the mast join and then (supposedly) transferred to the oversized piece and cut out:
 

 
Once the join was satisfactory I marked and cut out the top edge, insuring it totally aligned with the bib top on the mast.
 

 
Now the curving part is easy (compared to the rest).  The curves where drawn out, cut and sanded.  Before gluing I produced the other bib piece (marking the finished one with which side it belongs to FIRST).  Replicating the curve was much easier piece to piece off ship.  After all that work (maybe two hours in the workshop) I glued the bib pieces on.
 

 
Looking at the plans for  the two thousandth time afterwards I did realize the bibs were not only supposed to support the top beam but also slightly go into the topmast space.  Initially you wonder how the heck that happened.  I finally opted to laminate a 1/32" piece of basswood on the inside face for this issue.  The top will be painted (black) and it will be basically invisible (unless pointed out, which I try not to do).  So, reprieve and lesson learned for the next mast down the road.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

You make progress when you can.  I have affixed the futtock templates for ten half frames using around one and a third  boards (3 inch by 24 inch, 1/8 inch thick).  For comparison sake, using the expedited method created two half frames per board length if memory serves correct.
 

 
Many different techniques that probably vary with wood type, but for basswood I evenly apply a coat of rubber cement to the wood and allow to dry, usually around 5 minutes.  Then I apply a second coat and apply the paper templates to the wet surface.  You have around 5 seconds of maneuver time to slide them around before I apply pressure from the center and rub outwards to insure flat and totally affixed.
 
After getting the other ten halves affixed I will rough cut out using the scroll saw and cut the mating joints using the Byrnes saw with my sled.
 
Mark

On to the bibs.  One lesson learned I have taken to heart is when working with a complex mating surface (ie non straight) I do not cut the whole part to shape and hope for the best.  I always have to file a little here, scrape a little there with the result being the constructed piece is just a little 'off' on one face or another.  This is especially true for me for stems.
 
So, I focus on one edge at a time, starting with the mating edge required.  The target shape was cut out of the mast join and then (supposedly) transferred to the oversized piece and cut out:
 

 
Once the join was satisfactory I marked and cut out the top edge, insuring it totally aligned with the bib top on the mast.
 

 
Now the curving part is easy (compared to the rest).  The curves where drawn out, cut and sanded.  Before gluing I produced the other bib piece (marking the finished one with which side it belongs to FIRST).  Replicating the curve was much easier piece to piece off ship.  After all that work (maybe two hours in the workshop) I glued the bib pieces on.
 

 
Looking at the plans for  the two thousandth time afterwards I did realize the bibs were not only supposed to support the top beam but also slightly go into the topmast space.  Initially you wonder how the heck that happened.  I finally opted to laminate a 1/32" piece of basswood on the inside face for this issue.  The top will be painted (black) and it will be basically invisible (unless pointed out, which I try not to do).  So, reprieve and lesson learned for the next mast down the road.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

With a little time I jumped into the bibs and cheeks.  First up was to glue in the blanks for both:
 

 
So far so good.  There are a few small gaps but a little sanding and some glue will get rid of those.  Also, the mast will be painted so no worries.  
 
Now for shaping the blanks.  I wanted to protect the mast itself so I used some painters tape to provide a cover for the mast itself.  Most of the shaping was accomplished with a razor blade.
 

 
A relatively short time later I had both sides done:
 

 
For anyone new to making masts (such as I am) I would suggest practicing on basswood, even if that is not your final wood for your model.  Shapes, methods and results can be done to understand the process prior to your final try.
 
Thanks for stopping by,
Mark
P.S.  Finished the second Tri making all my target times.  Working towards the final one of the season on September 12.

With a little time I jumped into the bibs and cheeks.  First up was to glue in the blanks for both:
 

 
So far so good.  There are a few small gaps but a little sanding and some glue will get rid of those.  Also, the mast will be painted so no worries.  
 
Now for shaping the blanks.  I wanted to protect the mast itself so I used some painters tape to provide a cover for the mast itself.  Most of the shaping was accomplished with a razor blade.
 

 
A relatively short time later I had both sides done:
 

 
For anyone new to making masts (such as I am) I would suggest practicing on basswood, even if that is not your final wood for your model.  Shapes, methods and results can be done to understand the process prior to your final try.
 
Thanks for stopping by,
Mark
P.S.  Finished the second Tri making all my target times.  Working towards the final one of the season on September 12.

Hi Mark
 
Nice job on the masts! Congratulations, also, for finishing your marathon with all target times being met.
 
Cheers and all the best!
 
Patrick

With a little time I jumped into the bibs and cheeks.  First up was to glue in the blanks for both:
 

 
So far so good.  There are a few small gaps but a little sanding and some glue will get rid of those.  Also, the mast will be painted so no worries.  
 
Now for shaping the blanks.  I wanted to protect the mast itself so I used some painters tape to provide a cover for the mast itself.  Most of the shaping was accomplished with a razor blade.
 

 
A relatively short time later I had both sides done:
 

 
For anyone new to making masts (such as I am) I would suggest practicing on basswood, even if that is not your final wood for your model.  Shapes, methods and results can be done to understand the process prior to your final try.
 
Thanks for stopping by,
Mark
P.S.  Finished the second Tri making all my target times.  Working towards the final one of the season on September 12.

With a little time I jumped into the bibs and cheeks.  First up was to glue in the blanks for both:
 

 
So far so good.  There are a few small gaps but a little sanding and some glue will get rid of those.  Also, the mast will be painted so no worries.  
 
Now for shaping the blanks.  I wanted to protect the mast itself so I used some painters tape to provide a cover for the mast itself.  Most of the shaping was accomplished with a razor blade.
 

 
A relatively short time later I had both sides done:
 

 
For anyone new to making masts (such as I am) I would suggest practicing on basswood, even if that is not your final wood for your model.  Shapes, methods and results can be done to understand the process prior to your final try.
 
Thanks for stopping by,
Mark
P.S.  Finished the second Tri making all my target times.  Working towards the final one of the season on September 12.

That hesitation you have after having successfully created a proportional sized mast and then knowing the next step was to cut into the mast to make mating surfaces for the cheeks.....
 
After having cut the main mast into an octagonal shape I found scrapers much better for making the final shape round than sandpaper.  It was especially satisfying laying the constructed mast over the plans and seeing very close conformance to the specified dimensions.
 
So on to the cheeks.  I picked out the wood to use as the cheeks and then subtracted that width from the mast head base.  Then the bottom of the cheeks was picked out based on period photos (not annotated on plans) and a straight line drawn connecting the two.  Then a combination of the jig saw and a lot of sanding gave me a straight join area.
 

 
I will use two layers of wood to accomplish the bibs.  I just think that would be a lot better looking than taking a thicker piece of wood and shaving off most for the cheeks.
 
Slow but sure progress.  Another Sprint Tri in four days.....
 
Mark

With a little time I jumped into the bibs and cheeks.  First up was to glue in the blanks for both:
 

 
So far so good.  There are a few small gaps but a little sanding and some glue will get rid of those.  Also, the mast will be painted so no worries.  
 
Now for shaping the blanks.  I wanted to protect the mast itself so I used some painters tape to provide a cover for the mast itself.  Most of the shaping was accomplished with a razor blade.
 

 
A relatively short time later I had both sides done:
 

 
For anyone new to making masts (such as I am) I would suggest practicing on basswood, even if that is not your final wood for your model.  Shapes, methods and results can be done to understand the process prior to your final try.
 
Thanks for stopping by,
Mark
P.S.  Finished the second Tri making all my target times.  Working towards the final one of the season on September 12.

With a little time I jumped into the bibs and cheeks.  First up was to glue in the blanks for both:
 

 
So far so good.  There are a few small gaps but a little sanding and some glue will get rid of those.  Also, the mast will be painted so no worries.  
 
Now for shaping the blanks.  I wanted to protect the mast itself so I used some painters tape to provide a cover for the mast itself.  Most of the shaping was accomplished with a razor blade.
 

 
A relatively short time later I had both sides done:
 

 
For anyone new to making masts (such as I am) I would suggest practicing on basswood, even if that is not your final wood for your model.  Shapes, methods and results can be done to understand the process prior to your final try.
 
Thanks for stopping by,
Mark
P.S.  Finished the second Tri making all my target times.  Working towards the final one of the season on September 12.

With a little time I jumped into the bibs and cheeks.  First up was to glue in the blanks for both:
 

 
So far so good.  There are a few small gaps but a little sanding and some glue will get rid of those.  Also, the mast will be painted so no worries.  
 
Now for shaping the blanks.  I wanted to protect the mast itself so I used some painters tape to provide a cover for the mast itself.  Most of the shaping was accomplished with a razor blade.
 

 
A relatively short time later I had both sides done:
 

 
For anyone new to making masts (such as I am) I would suggest practicing on basswood, even if that is not your final wood for your model.  Shapes, methods and results can be done to understand the process prior to your final try.
 
Thanks for stopping by,
Mark
P.S.  Finished the second Tri making all my target times.  Working towards the final one of the season on September 12.

That hesitation you have after having successfully created a proportional sized mast and then knowing the next step was to cut into the mast to make mating surfaces for the cheeks.....
 
After having cut the main mast into an octagonal shape I found scrapers much better for making the final shape round than sandpaper.  It was especially satisfying laying the constructed mast over the plans and seeing very close conformance to the specified dimensions.
 
So on to the cheeks.  I picked out the wood to use as the cheeks and then subtracted that width from the mast head base.  Then the bottom of the cheeks was picked out based on period photos (not annotated on plans) and a straight line drawn connecting the two.  Then a combination of the jig saw and a lot of sanding gave me a straight join area.
 

 
I will use two layers of wood to accomplish the bibs.  I just think that would be a lot better looking than taking a thicker piece of wood and shaving off most for the cheeks.
 
Slow but sure progress.  Another Sprint Tri in four days.....
 
Mark

Fascinating work, Mark.  You're also teaching us or me at least.   Good luck on the Sprint Tri.

That hesitation you have after having successfully created a proportional sized mast and then knowing the next step was to cut into the mast to make mating surfaces for the cheeks.....
 
After having cut the main mast into an octagonal shape I found scrapers much better for making the final shape round than sandpaper.  It was especially satisfying laying the constructed mast over the plans and seeing very close conformance to the specified dimensions.
 
So on to the cheeks.  I picked out the wood to use as the cheeks and then subtracted that width from the mast head base.  Then the bottom of the cheeks was picked out based on period photos (not annotated on plans) and a straight line drawn connecting the two.  Then a combination of the jig saw and a lot of sanding gave me a straight join area.
 

 
I will use two layers of wood to accomplish the bibs.  I just think that would be a lot better looking than taking a thicker piece of wood and shaving off most for the cheeks.
 
Slow but sure progress.  Another Sprint Tri in four days.....
 
Mark

That hesitation you have after having successfully created a proportional sized mast and then knowing the next step was to cut into the mast to make mating surfaces for the cheeks.....
 
After having cut the main mast into an octagonal shape I found scrapers much better for making the final shape round than sandpaper.  It was especially satisfying laying the constructed mast over the plans and seeing very close conformance to the specified dimensions.
 
So on to the cheeks.  I picked out the wood to use as the cheeks and then subtracted that width from the mast head base.  Then the bottom of the cheeks was picked out based on period photos (not annotated on plans) and a straight line drawn connecting the two.  Then a combination of the jig saw and a lot of sanding gave me a straight join area.
 

 
I will use two layers of wood to accomplish the bibs.  I just think that would be a lot better looking than taking a thicker piece of wood and shaving off most for the cheeks.
 
Slow but sure progress.  Another Sprint Tri in four days.....
 
Mark

That hesitation you have after having successfully created a proportional sized mast and then knowing the next step was to cut into the mast to make mating surfaces for the cheeks.....
 
After having cut the main mast into an octagonal shape I found scrapers much better for making the final shape round than sandpaper.  It was especially satisfying laying the constructed mast over the plans and seeing very close conformance to the specified dimensions.
 
So on to the cheeks.  I picked out the wood to use as the cheeks and then subtracted that width from the mast head base.  Then the bottom of the cheeks was picked out based on period photos (not annotated on plans) and a straight line drawn connecting the two.  Then a combination of the jig saw and a lot of sanding gave me a straight join area.
 

 
I will use two layers of wood to accomplish the bibs.  I just think that would be a lot better looking than taking a thicker piece of wood and shaving off most for the cheeks.
 
Slow but sure progress.  Another Sprint Tri in four days.....
 
Mark

This 'step' is coming up soon (pun intended) and I ask for some recommendations.
 
The ship plans only show the mast step from the side:
 

 
This shows a step on the keelson that appears to be parallel the keelson.  Note that the forward well wall pushes against the forward part of the step (no space for wedges).  For my full ship model oh so many years ago I made my best guess at how to do this:
 

 
From other builds (and the TFFM) the steps tend to lie perpendicular to the keelson with wedges forward and aft on the keelson to affix at a particular spot.  I am leaning towards using this perpendicular step and not what I did on the original build.
 
Thoughts?  Again, this was originally an American built cargo vessel from 1774.
 
Mark

This 'step' is coming up soon (pun intended) and I ask for some recommendations.
 
The ship plans only show the mast step from the side:
 

 
This shows a step on the keelson that appears to be parallel the keelson.  Note that the forward well wall pushes against the forward part of the step (no space for wedges).  For my full ship model oh so many years ago I made my best guess at how to do this:
 

 
From other builds (and the TFFM) the steps tend to lie perpendicular to the keelson with wedges forward and aft on the keelson to affix at a particular spot.  I am leaning towards using this perpendicular step and not what I did on the original build.
 
Thoughts?  Again, this was originally an American built cargo vessel from 1774.
 
Mark

This 'step' is coming up soon (pun intended) and I ask for some recommendations.
 
The ship plans only show the mast step from the side:
 

 
This shows a step on the keelson that appears to be parallel the keelson.  Note that the forward well wall pushes against the forward part of the step (no space for wedges).  For my full ship model oh so many years ago I made my best guess at how to do this:
 

 
From other builds (and the TFFM) the steps tend to lie perpendicular to the keelson with wedges forward and aft on the keelson to affix at a particular spot.  I am leaning towards using this perpendicular step and not what I did on the original build.
 
Thoughts?  Again, this was originally an American built cargo vessel from 1774.
 
Mark

This 'step' is coming up soon (pun intended) and I ask for some recommendations.
 
The ship plans only show the mast step from the side:
 

 
This shows a step on the keelson that appears to be parallel the keelson.  Note that the forward well wall pushes against the forward part of the step (no space for wedges).  For my full ship model oh so many years ago I made my best guess at how to do this:
 

 
From other builds (and the TFFM) the steps tend to lie perpendicular to the keelson with wedges forward and aft on the keelson to affix at a particular spot.  I am leaning towards using this perpendicular step and not what I did on the original build.
 
Thoughts?  Again, this was originally an American built cargo vessel from 1774.
 
Mark

This 'step' is coming up soon (pun intended) and I ask for some recommendations.
 
The ship plans only show the mast step from the side:
 

 
This shows a step on the keelson that appears to be parallel the keelson.  Note that the forward well wall pushes against the forward part of the step (no space for wedges).  For my full ship model oh so many years ago I made my best guess at how to do this:
 

 
From other builds (and the TFFM) the steps tend to lie perpendicular to the keelson with wedges forward and aft on the keelson to affix at a particular spot.  I am leaning towards using this perpendicular step and not what I did on the original build.
 
Thoughts?  Again, this was originally an American built cargo vessel from 1774.
 
Mark