kruginmi

Okay, not trying to puff myself up but I am pretty proud of my capstan.  I did join a couple of hobbies in the process, bringing in my pen making side business.  The capstan is quite a few pieces most of which are cylindrical - not the easiest to construct well.  So....I thought long and hard and came up with a way to do all the round pieces on the lathe, which is what it is used for.  Both capstans will be made as one single piece.
 
I first cut blocks for the main axle as well as the component that holds the bars.  Then I cut a 7mm hole through the centers of each.  A brass tube will be glued in to this hole to provide structural rigidity (the pen side of things).  I did alternate grain directions for looks, but also to allow the bar area to be cleared out eventually.  All the pieces were then glued up, with the brass tube superglued in:
 

 
You can see in the drawings the targeted portions of the capstan to be turned on the lathe:
 

 
Then it is a 'simple' process of turning to the desired dimensions.  Since I have that brass tube I can mount the component on a steel rod and use bushings to lock it in place.  Very strong.
 

 
I drilled a hole in the base plate that the capstan fits down cleanly into.  I then cut another baseplate for the quarterdeck and cut another corresponding hole.  This plate needed to be split in half to fit around the tube and result was better than I expected:
 

 
I love it when a plan comes together.  I will lathe a small cap piece to cover the hole on the top of the capstan and then cut the other components required against the axle.  Very doable.  Always happy when you come up with a plan and it actually works.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Okay, not trying to puff myself up but I am pretty proud of my capstan.  I did join a couple of hobbies in the process, bringing in my pen making side business.  The capstan is quite a few pieces most of which are cylindrical - not the easiest to construct well.  So....I thought long and hard and came up with a way to do all the round pieces on the lathe, which is what it is used for.  Both capstans will be made as one single piece.
 
I first cut blocks for the main axle as well as the component that holds the bars.  Then I cut a 7mm hole through the centers of each.  A brass tube will be glued in to this hole to provide structural rigidity (the pen side of things).  I did alternate grain directions for looks, but also to allow the bar area to be cleared out eventually.  All the pieces were then glued up, with the brass tube superglued in:
 

 
You can see in the drawings the targeted portions of the capstan to be turned on the lathe:
 

 
Then it is a 'simple' process of turning to the desired dimensions.  Since I have that brass tube I can mount the component on a steel rod and use bushings to lock it in place.  Very strong.
 

 
I drilled a hole in the base plate that the capstan fits down cleanly into.  I then cut another baseplate for the quarterdeck and cut another corresponding hole.  This plate needed to be split in half to fit around the tube and result was better than I expected:
 

 
I love it when a plan comes together.  I will lathe a small cap piece to cover the hole on the top of the capstan and then cut the other components required against the axle.  Very doable.  Always happy when you come up with a plan and it actually works.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Before I take a week hiatus I really felt pushed to try to get the cleats in on the forecastle.  I am sure if the ship were rigged there would be a lot more of these things around the hull but I have opted to just put 12 of them at the bow.
 
After figuring out the size I wanted to achieve I cut out a strip of wood to the rough dimensions, then used a Dremel to rough out the inverted arc on top.  I then used my razor saw to cut out the widths:
 

 
Just gluing these to the deck was asking for trouble with such a small glue area, so while I had some good flat surfaces I cut a hole for a dowel through the middle:
 

 
Now for the fun part - sanding.  Each cleat took 5-10 minutes of work to round all the corners and shape it to the desired configuration.  FIngertips are still sore from that.  I did take a sharp knife to expedite in some areas but very slow and steady.  Upon completion I checked the result against the ship and it seemed in harmony:
 

 
I arced in a line where these should reside then checked off their locations using my proportional dividers.  I glue tacked them to the deck:
 

 
Once they had dried pretty firm I drilled through the previous holes into the deck.  I followed this up with a dowel and some glue for a real solid bond.  Once that had time to dry, a light sanding to finish everything up.  Shortly after I gel coated the whole forecastle (the foremast is not fully seated in the following pics to allow it to dry).
 

 
Now when I stand off and look, that bow sure looks a whole lot better.  Still have that eking rail but that will be for another day.  Oh - I will carve a scroll piece to transition from the top rail to the gun deck rail to clean up that transition.
 

 
A good day in the shipyard!
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

On to the quarterdeck.  First business was to get the sidewalls correct (width and height) to set the tone for the cap rail as well as planking.  BIG lesson learned here in regards to the ribs.  I should have left extra height on the ribs and did some extra measurements on target widths.  Luckily, there is a path to recovery which will be totally invisible once complete.
 
To highlight the issue the following photos is the current situation with a pencil line denoting the target width on the tops of the ribs.  This extra will be cut away down to the tops of the quarterdeck beams.  It will be noted that there essentially is no protruding ribs at the forward end of the quarterdeck.  To remedy this I removed the top layer of planking on the external hull (a partial width) and will replace with a wider plank.  I will attach pieces to this plank to replace the missing ribs and provide support to the internal wall. 
 

 
Now, we are talking millimeters not meters of missing material.  If you look at the previous picture and view across to the other side you can see where I have already done the necessary work.  It is important when sanding the resultant wood down to the finished dimensions that you use a piece of sanding block that stretches across the hull to insure a totally flat surface for the cap rail.  The forward end of the new wall ends up flush in height with the floor planking of the quarterdeck then does a gradual rise up to the stern wall.
 
When complete the pictures look much different:
 

 
The floor planking goes flush against this new material which will provide a finished look and clean join.  The cap rail covers all the ribs and support structures so all this work will disappear if done correctly.  Having a good foundation is essential for following up with all the finishing touches (and provides relief from stress)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Thanks David.
 
I am actually compensating for issues raised over 12 years ago when this build first started.  I like to think I have matured and grown enough to overcome these things.  It will be all good.  I had wanted to keep things sturdy and boy did I over engineer.  Interesting to think I am saying goodbye to the rib tops that I have been staring at for so long.
 
The evolution of Krug.
 
Mark

On to the quarterdeck.  First business was to get the sidewalls correct (width and height) to set the tone for the cap rail as well as planking.  BIG lesson learned here in regards to the ribs.  I should have left extra height on the ribs and did some extra measurements on target widths.  Luckily, there is a path to recovery which will be totally invisible once complete.
 
To highlight the issue the following photos is the current situation with a pencil line denoting the target width on the tops of the ribs.  This extra will be cut away down to the tops of the quarterdeck beams.  It will be noted that there essentially is no protruding ribs at the forward end of the quarterdeck.  To remedy this I removed the top layer of planking on the external hull (a partial width) and will replace with a wider plank.  I will attach pieces to this plank to replace the missing ribs and provide support to the internal wall. 
 

 
Now, we are talking millimeters not meters of missing material.  If you look at the previous picture and view across to the other side you can see where I have already done the necessary work.  It is important when sanding the resultant wood down to the finished dimensions that you use a piece of sanding block that stretches across the hull to insure a totally flat surface for the cap rail.  The forward end of the new wall ends up flush in height with the floor planking of the quarterdeck then does a gradual rise up to the stern wall.
 
When complete the pictures look much different:
 

 
The floor planking goes flush against this new material which will provide a finished look and clean join.  The cap rail covers all the ribs and support structures so all this work will disappear if done correctly.  Having a good foundation is essential for following up with all the finishing touches (and provides relief from stress)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

On to the quarterdeck.  First business was to get the sidewalls correct (width and height) to set the tone for the cap rail as well as planking.  BIG lesson learned here in regards to the ribs.  I should have left extra height on the ribs and did some extra measurements on target widths.  Luckily, there is a path to recovery which will be totally invisible once complete.
 
To highlight the issue the following photos is the current situation with a pencil line denoting the target width on the tops of the ribs.  This extra will be cut away down to the tops of the quarterdeck beams.  It will be noted that there essentially is no protruding ribs at the forward end of the quarterdeck.  To remedy this I removed the top layer of planking on the external hull (a partial width) and will replace with a wider plank.  I will attach pieces to this plank to replace the missing ribs and provide support to the internal wall. 
 

 
Now, we are talking millimeters not meters of missing material.  If you look at the previous picture and view across to the other side you can see where I have already done the necessary work.  It is important when sanding the resultant wood down to the finished dimensions that you use a piece of sanding block that stretches across the hull to insure a totally flat surface for the cap rail.  The forward end of the new wall ends up flush in height with the floor planking of the quarterdeck then does a gradual rise up to the stern wall.
 
When complete the pictures look much different:
 

 
The floor planking goes flush against this new material which will provide a finished look and clean join.  The cap rail covers all the ribs and support structures so all this work will disappear if done correctly.  Having a good foundation is essential for following up with all the finishing touches (and provides relief from stress)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Thanks David.
 
I am actually compensating for issues raised over 12 years ago when this build first started.  I like to think I have matured and grown enough to overcome these things.  It will be all good.  I had wanted to keep things sturdy and boy did I over engineer.  Interesting to think I am saying goodbye to the rib tops that I have been staring at for so long.
 
The evolution of Krug.
 
Mark

On to the quarterdeck.  First business was to get the sidewalls correct (width and height) to set the tone for the cap rail as well as planking.  BIG lesson learned here in regards to the ribs.  I should have left extra height on the ribs and did some extra measurements on target widths.  Luckily, there is a path to recovery which will be totally invisible once complete.
 
To highlight the issue the following photos is the current situation with a pencil line denoting the target width on the tops of the ribs.  This extra will be cut away down to the tops of the quarterdeck beams.  It will be noted that there essentially is no protruding ribs at the forward end of the quarterdeck.  To remedy this I removed the top layer of planking on the external hull (a partial width) and will replace with a wider plank.  I will attach pieces to this plank to replace the missing ribs and provide support to the internal wall. 
 

 
Now, we are talking millimeters not meters of missing material.  If you look at the previous picture and view across to the other side you can see where I have already done the necessary work.  It is important when sanding the resultant wood down to the finished dimensions that you use a piece of sanding block that stretches across the hull to insure a totally flat surface for the cap rail.  The forward end of the new wall ends up flush in height with the floor planking of the quarterdeck then does a gradual rise up to the stern wall.
 
When complete the pictures look much different:
 

 
The floor planking goes flush against this new material which will provide a finished look and clean join.  The cap rail covers all the ribs and support structures so all this work will disappear if done correctly.  Having a good foundation is essential for following up with all the finishing touches (and provides relief from stress)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

thanks Mark, you should do it! 
 
On a side note - the cleats are boxwood.  This is where basswood breaks down.  If you omit the drilling for the dowel you have a chance, but the grain is just to soft for the fiddly bits.  Except for the boxwood I have purchased all my wood at two local hobby shops as I needed it.
 
Mark

Mark.  First off, you don't need any boxwood for the ribs, keel and other lower hull parts.  The first pieces I used were for the scroll work on the stem which was pretty far into the build.
 
I went with the Lumberyard for the boxwood.  I essentially budgeted $50, thought about what thicknesses I need and what proportion for each then ordered.  I have MOST of that wood supply left, almost barely touched it.
 
Don't worry about the boxwood right off.  Figure out a hull that interests you and start from the basics.  Plank on bulkhead is even an option.
 
Mark

Before I take a week hiatus I really felt pushed to try to get the cleats in on the forecastle.  I am sure if the ship were rigged there would be a lot more of these things around the hull but I have opted to just put 12 of them at the bow.
 
After figuring out the size I wanted to achieve I cut out a strip of wood to the rough dimensions, then used a Dremel to rough out the inverted arc on top.  I then used my razor saw to cut out the widths:
 

 
Just gluing these to the deck was asking for trouble with such a small glue area, so while I had some good flat surfaces I cut a hole for a dowel through the middle:
 

 
Now for the fun part - sanding.  Each cleat took 5-10 minutes of work to round all the corners and shape it to the desired configuration.  FIngertips are still sore from that.  I did take a sharp knife to expedite in some areas but very slow and steady.  Upon completion I checked the result against the ship and it seemed in harmony:
 

 
I arced in a line where these should reside then checked off their locations using my proportional dividers.  I glue tacked them to the deck:
 

 
Once they had dried pretty firm I drilled through the previous holes into the deck.  I followed this up with a dowel and some glue for a real solid bond.  Once that had time to dry, a light sanding to finish everything up.  Shortly after I gel coated the whole forecastle (the foremast is not fully seated in the following pics to allow it to dry).
 

 
Now when I stand off and look, that bow sure looks a whole lot better.  Still have that eking rail but that will be for another day.  Oh - I will carve a scroll piece to transition from the top rail to the gun deck rail to clean up that transition.
 

 
A good day in the shipyard!
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Thanks David.
 
I am actually compensating for issues raised over 12 years ago when this build first started.  I like to think I have matured and grown enough to overcome these things.  It will be all good.  I had wanted to keep things sturdy and boy did I over engineer.  Interesting to think I am saying goodbye to the rib tops that I have been staring at for so long.
 
The evolution of Krug.
 
Mark

On to the quarterdeck.  First business was to get the sidewalls correct (width and height) to set the tone for the cap rail as well as planking.  BIG lesson learned here in regards to the ribs.  I should have left extra height on the ribs and did some extra measurements on target widths.  Luckily, there is a path to recovery which will be totally invisible once complete.
 
To highlight the issue the following photos is the current situation with a pencil line denoting the target width on the tops of the ribs.  This extra will be cut away down to the tops of the quarterdeck beams.  It will be noted that there essentially is no protruding ribs at the forward end of the quarterdeck.  To remedy this I removed the top layer of planking on the external hull (a partial width) and will replace with a wider plank.  I will attach pieces to this plank to replace the missing ribs and provide support to the internal wall. 
 

 
Now, we are talking millimeters not meters of missing material.  If you look at the previous picture and view across to the other side you can see where I have already done the necessary work.  It is important when sanding the resultant wood down to the finished dimensions that you use a piece of sanding block that stretches across the hull to insure a totally flat surface for the cap rail.  The forward end of the new wall ends up flush in height with the floor planking of the quarterdeck then does a gradual rise up to the stern wall.
 
When complete the pictures look much different:
 

 
The floor planking goes flush against this new material which will provide a finished look and clean join.  The cap rail covers all the ribs and support structures so all this work will disappear if done correctly.  Having a good foundation is essential for following up with all the finishing touches (and provides relief from stress)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Thanks David.
 
I am actually compensating for issues raised over 12 years ago when this build first started.  I like to think I have matured and grown enough to overcome these things.  It will be all good.  I had wanted to keep things sturdy and boy did I over engineer.  Interesting to think I am saying goodbye to the rib tops that I have been staring at for so long.
 
The evolution of Krug.
 
Mark

On to the quarterdeck.  First business was to get the sidewalls correct (width and height) to set the tone for the cap rail as well as planking.  BIG lesson learned here in regards to the ribs.  I should have left extra height on the ribs and did some extra measurements on target widths.  Luckily, there is a path to recovery which will be totally invisible once complete.
 
To highlight the issue the following photos is the current situation with a pencil line denoting the target width on the tops of the ribs.  This extra will be cut away down to the tops of the quarterdeck beams.  It will be noted that there essentially is no protruding ribs at the forward end of the quarterdeck.  To remedy this I removed the top layer of planking on the external hull (a partial width) and will replace with a wider plank.  I will attach pieces to this plank to replace the missing ribs and provide support to the internal wall. 
 

 
Now, we are talking millimeters not meters of missing material.  If you look at the previous picture and view across to the other side you can see where I have already done the necessary work.  It is important when sanding the resultant wood down to the finished dimensions that you use a piece of sanding block that stretches across the hull to insure a totally flat surface for the cap rail.  The forward end of the new wall ends up flush in height with the floor planking of the quarterdeck then does a gradual rise up to the stern wall.
 
When complete the pictures look much different:
 

 
The floor planking goes flush against this new material which will provide a finished look and clean join.  The cap rail covers all the ribs and support structures so all this work will disappear if done correctly.  Having a good foundation is essential for following up with all the finishing touches (and provides relief from stress)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

You are doing a bang up job.
David B

On to the quarterdeck.  First business was to get the sidewalls correct (width and height) to set the tone for the cap rail as well as planking.  BIG lesson learned here in regards to the ribs.  I should have left extra height on the ribs and did some extra measurements on target widths.  Luckily, there is a path to recovery which will be totally invisible once complete.
 
To highlight the issue the following photos is the current situation with a pencil line denoting the target width on the tops of the ribs.  This extra will be cut away down to the tops of the quarterdeck beams.  It will be noted that there essentially is no protruding ribs at the forward end of the quarterdeck.  To remedy this I removed the top layer of planking on the external hull (a partial width) and will replace with a wider plank.  I will attach pieces to this plank to replace the missing ribs and provide support to the internal wall. 
 

 
Now, we are talking millimeters not meters of missing material.  If you look at the previous picture and view across to the other side you can see where I have already done the necessary work.  It is important when sanding the resultant wood down to the finished dimensions that you use a piece of sanding block that stretches across the hull to insure a totally flat surface for the cap rail.  The forward end of the new wall ends up flush in height with the floor planking of the quarterdeck then does a gradual rise up to the stern wall.
 
When complete the pictures look much different:
 

 
The floor planking goes flush against this new material which will provide a finished look and clean join.  The cap rail covers all the ribs and support structures so all this work will disappear if done correctly.  Having a good foundation is essential for following up with all the finishing touches (and provides relief from stress)
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

It seems like every day I add things that now make a significant difference in the look.  Yesterday was the timberheads, gluing the cap rails down and assembling and fastening the ladders.  I have talked / covered how this was done in other parts of the build so I just attach some new photos:
 

 
Boy, that camera angle sure makes those ladders look totally crazy width wise.  That is optics.  I have the cleats, blackening the chimney and the eking rails left before gel coating and moving back to the quarterdeck.
 
Stay Building my Friends,
Mark

Before I take a week hiatus I really felt pushed to try to get the cleats in on the forecastle.  I am sure if the ship were rigged there would be a lot more of these things around the hull but I have opted to just put 12 of them at the bow.
 
After figuring out the size I wanted to achieve I cut out a strip of wood to the rough dimensions, then used a Dremel to rough out the inverted arc on top.  I then used my razor saw to cut out the widths:
 

 
Just gluing these to the deck was asking for trouble with such a small glue area, so while I had some good flat surfaces I cut a hole for a dowel through the middle:
 

 
Now for the fun part - sanding.  Each cleat took 5-10 minutes of work to round all the corners and shape it to the desired configuration.  FIngertips are still sore from that.  I did take a sharp knife to expedite in some areas but very slow and steady.  Upon completion I checked the result against the ship and it seemed in harmony:
 

 
I arced in a line where these should reside then checked off their locations using my proportional dividers.  I glue tacked them to the deck:
 

 
Once they had dried pretty firm I drilled through the previous holes into the deck.  I followed this up with a dowel and some glue for a real solid bond.  Once that had time to dry, a light sanding to finish everything up.  Shortly after I gel coated the whole forecastle (the foremast is not fully seated in the following pics to allow it to dry).
 

 
Now when I stand off and look, that bow sure looks a whole lot better.  Still have that eking rail but that will be for another day.  Oh - I will carve a scroll piece to transition from the top rail to the gun deck rail to clean up that transition.
 

 
A good day in the shipyard!
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Before I take a week hiatus I really felt pushed to try to get the cleats in on the forecastle.  I am sure if the ship were rigged there would be a lot more of these things around the hull but I have opted to just put 12 of them at the bow.
 
After figuring out the size I wanted to achieve I cut out a strip of wood to the rough dimensions, then used a Dremel to rough out the inverted arc on top.  I then used my razor saw to cut out the widths:
 

 
Just gluing these to the deck was asking for trouble with such a small glue area, so while I had some good flat surfaces I cut a hole for a dowel through the middle:
 

 
Now for the fun part - sanding.  Each cleat took 5-10 minutes of work to round all the corners and shape it to the desired configuration.  FIngertips are still sore from that.  I did take a sharp knife to expedite in some areas but very slow and steady.  Upon completion I checked the result against the ship and it seemed in harmony:
 

 
I arced in a line where these should reside then checked off their locations using my proportional dividers.  I glue tacked them to the deck:
 

 
Once they had dried pretty firm I drilled through the previous holes into the deck.  I followed this up with a dowel and some glue for a real solid bond.  Once that had time to dry, a light sanding to finish everything up.  Shortly after I gel coated the whole forecastle (the foremast is not fully seated in the following pics to allow it to dry).
 

 
Now when I stand off and look, that bow sure looks a whole lot better.  Still have that eking rail but that will be for another day.  Oh - I will carve a scroll piece to transition from the top rail to the gun deck rail to clean up that transition.
 

 
A good day in the shipyard!
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Before I take a week hiatus I really felt pushed to try to get the cleats in on the forecastle.  I am sure if the ship were rigged there would be a lot more of these things around the hull but I have opted to just put 12 of them at the bow.
 
After figuring out the size I wanted to achieve I cut out a strip of wood to the rough dimensions, then used a Dremel to rough out the inverted arc on top.  I then used my razor saw to cut out the widths:
 

 
Just gluing these to the deck was asking for trouble with such a small glue area, so while I had some good flat surfaces I cut a hole for a dowel through the middle:
 

 
Now for the fun part - sanding.  Each cleat took 5-10 minutes of work to round all the corners and shape it to the desired configuration.  FIngertips are still sore from that.  I did take a sharp knife to expedite in some areas but very slow and steady.  Upon completion I checked the result against the ship and it seemed in harmony:
 

 
I arced in a line where these should reside then checked off their locations using my proportional dividers.  I glue tacked them to the deck:
 

 
Once they had dried pretty firm I drilled through the previous holes into the deck.  I followed this up with a dowel and some glue for a real solid bond.  Once that had time to dry, a light sanding to finish everything up.  Shortly after I gel coated the whole forecastle (the foremast is not fully seated in the following pics to allow it to dry).
 

 
Now when I stand off and look, that bow sure looks a whole lot better.  Still have that eking rail but that will be for another day.  Oh - I will carve a scroll piece to transition from the top rail to the gun deck rail to clean up that transition.
 

 
A good day in the shipyard!
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Mark.  First off, you don't need any boxwood for the ribs, keel and other lower hull parts.  The first pieces I used were for the scroll work on the stem which was pretty far into the build.
 
I went with the Lumberyard for the boxwood.  I essentially budgeted $50, thought about what thicknesses I need and what proportion for each then ordered.  I have MOST of that wood supply left, almost barely touched it.
 
Don't worry about the boxwood right off.  Figure out a hull that interests you and start from the basics.  Plank on bulkhead is even an option.
 
Mark

Before I take a week hiatus I really felt pushed to try to get the cleats in on the forecastle.  I am sure if the ship were rigged there would be a lot more of these things around the hull but I have opted to just put 12 of them at the bow.
 
After figuring out the size I wanted to achieve I cut out a strip of wood to the rough dimensions, then used a Dremel to rough out the inverted arc on top.  I then used my razor saw to cut out the widths:
 

 
Just gluing these to the deck was asking for trouble with such a small glue area, so while I had some good flat surfaces I cut a hole for a dowel through the middle:
 

 
Now for the fun part - sanding.  Each cleat took 5-10 minutes of work to round all the corners and shape it to the desired configuration.  FIngertips are still sore from that.  I did take a sharp knife to expedite in some areas but very slow and steady.  Upon completion I checked the result against the ship and it seemed in harmony:
 

 
I arced in a line where these should reside then checked off their locations using my proportional dividers.  I glue tacked them to the deck:
 

 
Once they had dried pretty firm I drilled through the previous holes into the deck.  I followed this up with a dowel and some glue for a real solid bond.  Once that had time to dry, a light sanding to finish everything up.  Shortly after I gel coated the whole forecastle (the foremast is not fully seated in the following pics to allow it to dry).
 

 
Now when I stand off and look, that bow sure looks a whole lot better.  Still have that eking rail but that will be for another day.  Oh - I will carve a scroll piece to transition from the top rail to the gun deck rail to clean up that transition.
 

 
A good day in the shipyard!
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark

Thanks Joe and everyone else stopping by.
 
I laugh a little when I look back at this reboot starting in Aug of last year.  At first glance there is NOT a ton of difference apparent between the profile then and now.  However, I think of all the time and things accomplished and this delta can be explained.  Not a hobby for those wanting quick results!
 
My wife rolls her eyes a bit when I explain the time still remaining.  I don't even want to think about what it would have been had I selected to mast and rig her.  I will do the complete scratch one day, but can only fit one of those in my house.  The Druid is good in that it will fit pretty well on a wider shelf space.
 
Taking a break next week to do things with the family so that will fortify me for the final push.
 
Stay Building My Friends,
Mark