Adrieke

Hello friends and thank you all for visiting and your likes!!!!
 
I spend all day in the shipyard (garage) to work on the dinghy.  I fabricated the gudgeons and pintles for the rudder.  Believe it or not but that took me three and a half hours to do.  One wouldn't believe that something that simple can take so much time.  
 
I used 0.2 mm brass shim stock and 1 mm brass tubes with 0.5 mm brass pins for them.  No reason to draw a picture, all of you know how they look like.
 
The brass shim was cut to 1 mm wide and so were the brass tubes.  I bend the brass strips into a U shape to fit the keel and rudder.  The toughest part was soldering these small pieces of tube to the bend up strips.  I placed a picture of my soldering jig below.  I used a steel sewing pin to hold the tube to the gudgeon with my left hand while soldering with the right.  Oh yeah, I used a rosin core silver solder, feeding that with my third hand    Actually, I pretinned the parts.
 
For the pintles I used the same method except that I first soldered the brass rod in the tubes and then holding that to the bend-up strips I soldered i all together.  
 
This doesn't sound like 3 1/2 hours worth of work but that includes a few remakes, naturally    
 
The pictures below were taken before I cleaned everything up by CAREFULLY filing extra solder away.  The nowy look presentable and I am happy.  Gwen also liked them, she said it looks rather spiffy. 
 
I cemented the gudgeons and pintles to their assigned locations with CA.
 
Next I shaved some wood away from the oarsmen seats but I think that the forward one can still use to loose some more wood..
 
I also made an eye bold for the bow frame where the mooring ting will be.  This I glued into the top of the bow frame with CA.
 
After lunch I started on making the oar locks.  Hmmmm - - - not having much success with them.  Spend almost 3 hours on them and managed to make only one, which I will have to reject.  They are supposed to be 0.5 mm wide from some 0.2 mm brass ship and then drilling a 0.5 mm hole in it for a bras pin.  They'l be bend into a U shape to fit the 0.8 mm oar shaft.  They'll be slightly smaller the on version 1.0 but it seems to give me more trouble tat way.  
Soooooh, I'm back at square one with them.  Well, tomorrow is another day and I can start out fresh.
 
That's it for today and here are a few pics of today's efforts.
 

I put the gudgeon over a piece of scrap wood with the same thickness as the keel.  You can see the sowing straight pin in the 1 mm tube and yes, it does get hot 
 

Here are all the pieces completed but still in the rough state.  After I cleaned them up and filed the excess solder away they do look presentable.  I also filed the ship pieces even to 1 mm wide,
 

 

 
Cheers, 

I hope everyone had a great Christmas and a Happy and safe new year

The New Year brings with it ....... a small update!
 
There are two bulkheads under the quarterdeck.  They are constructed from laser cut pieces and laminated:
 

 
Here they are, laminated and the blackened brass hardware affixed to the doors:
 

 
The farthest aft of the two encloses the Great Cabin.  It, in combination with the deck beams I've put in, pretty much covers the checkerboard floor.  But we'll still be able to see it as only 1/2 of the quarterdeck will be planked:
 

 
Another view, showing the first of the hanging knees installed:
 

 
There will be both hanging and lodging knees installed for each of the deck beams as we move forward.  I've installed wire inserts to simulated the bolts in the knees.
 
Here's the aft bulkhead taken from the front.  I've also added the mizzen mast cap, some eyebolts and the speaking tube (only temporarily).  It's made from painted brass tubing and extends up to the quarterdeck just where the ship's wheel will go.  I'm not sure what the helmsman would communicate to those down below but I can't shake the mental image of John Wayne at the helm bellowing down "Engine room, more steam".
 

 
We'll be moving forward now to install that second bulkhead.  But first some gangway railings and the capstan need to be installed.
 
Best to all for 2015 !
 
 
 
 

As luck would have it, did manage to find some time to work on deck fittings over Christmas.  So, at about 800 hours into the build here's where we are:
 
THE CAPSTAN
 
Supplied as a laser cut sheet, this reminds me why I don't scratchbuild:
 

 
I'm leaving it with the natural finish to show off the pins made of 28 gauge wire.  The ring on top was photoetched.  She's just pinned on deck for now.  Still need to make some pawls.
 

 
And that brings us to THE STOVE.  Also supplied as (many) laser cut and photoetched parts:
 

 
The basic structure was assembled and brass strip cut for the corners and feet:
 

 
 
 
Lids with copper wire handles and more venting added (along with access doors)
 

 
 
Photoetched parts painted and brass tubes added to simulate stove vents:
 

 
Finally, the rotisserie was added!
 

 
Here it is just placed on my fine Italian brick hearth from fore/aft.  The vent stack will be permanently added once we fit the upper deck beams:
 

 

 
Lastly, just an overall look:
 

 
Sorry to be so long-winded but I thought a walk through the stove construction might interest some.  It was all given a coat of flat acrylic as a final touch.  
 
Much of this will be obscured as the upper deck beams and partial deck go in.  But I know it's there.  And, I have to fess up ---- this was a LOT of fun.
 
Hope to have some deck bulkheads and deck beams in place by New Years.  If I'm not back before then, Best of the New Year to all here on MSW!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thank-you everyone for all the comments! 
 
Well, an update is long overdue - I almost feel I should introduce myself again!   
 
I struggled in the summer with which route to take for my cannons. I tried making molds and casting with resin with only limited success. The summer flew by and winter appeared and casting became a problem due to mess and allergies, or at least some reaction to the fumes. Ideally working outside is the best option, but at -20 degrees Celsius, it's not an option!
 
I had seen some paper cannons that Doris made and I thought I would give that a try. It would be easier if my scale was larger, but I don't find it too difficult. I know they are not perfect, but I am relatively pleased with the outcome and will continue with this process.
 
I am currently experimenting with weathering the cannons, so the painted one is not necessarily what the finished product will look like. 
 

 

 

 

it is , as long as you keep up with it , if you just keep collecting them , then it is wasting money.
 
thanks for looking in Lecsandro
 
busy week at work , so I am still working on weeks 13 and 14
 
about 2 weeks ago I ordered some test led lights. 3 chip leds in 3 sizes and a flickering led to simulate a candle flame
 
this to test out which would fit best in the little lanterns
 
they have arrived and I thought the flickering one would be too big but I got it fitted in.
 
once I get the issues where it shows how they ll fit in the ship to make sure I can make the wiring invisible, I ll order the rest.
 
 
 
 

WEEK 13 and 14 continued
 
the lanterns consist of 4 very small brass parts . the body needs to be bended and glued together.
 
next step will be adding the top and bottom part but because I am going to try to add lights inside I am leaving them open for the moment
 
for the lighting I have ordered some very small test led's and also one that is supposed to simulate a flickering flame.
this last one will most likely not fit inside the lantern, but I will experiment a bit. once I know how I will continue I will order the rest of the led's in the right size
 
finally I started fitting the doors window bars (some wooden strips where here also needed to fit it properly)
 
2 hinges and a handle will also be fitted to finish it off
 

WEEK 7
 
all parts for the stand
 

I am  back
 
everyone have a good new year
 
all building has been on hold due to celebrating and then afterwards the discovery of some wood eating pests that most likely have gotten away with a few parts.
 
as my workbench is partially unusable it might be a bit for I start again. I first want to catch up with the pearl as I am 2 months behind on her

Piet,
Your MBLS is coming along very nicely. 
The boom / mast connection as described by the Midwest plan is 'fiction'.  In real life, it appears the boom was connected to the mast with a yoke, the same as the gaff.  Below is a photo from my build log showing the yoke on the boom and gaff.  Also, the boom was held down by a rope that ran between an eye bolt on the bottom side of the boom and a eye bolt that was added to the mast, about 12" below the boom.
Dee Dee
 

 
 
 

Last Friday I painted the entire hull mat white, on de suggestion of my dear bride Gwen.  It does look very nice and I can always change my mind down the road and paint her red below the water line.
 
I also tried working with the stain some more but it just wont penetrate into the wood.  I washed it down and scrubbed it with MEK trying to remove the oily stain.  At this point I'm reluctant to try it again with fresh stain from the store or just go ahead and paint everything white as the kit have you do it.  It's a real disappointment to me because stained wood for the mast, boom, bowsprit and gaff would really make the model stand out.
 
I can also go to plan B and remake all this woodwork and try it again with some fresh stain.  It's not that much more work and the end result wil be a nicer looking model.  Something to think about.
 
I remade the boom swivel hardware.  I made two washers and the nut that'll bolt it to the mast.  I see on the photos that I need to do some more work on all three.  The nut needs to be more defined with six sides and the washers can be made rounder.
Something to do while I'm thinking about going to plan B for the mast and etc.  Well, I can also make an anchor yet.
 
Well, here are a few pics of the hardware I made yesterday.
 

This shows just part of all the hardware I made.  Instead of running standing rigging wire through holes in the mast, boom, gaff and bowsprit I made small eye bolts that I'll cement into these parts.  I can then run the rigging wire through them and simulate turnbuckles.  I just can't bring myself to run either a brass wire or thread through these parts and tie it off there.  A few of these small eye bolts are on the right of the picture.  The remade boom attaching assembly is on the top with the two washers and one nut.  The nut is on the right of the 2 washers as they are fitted on the sloop.  Then two of the seven blocks that I rigged per the kit plans except that I soldered the ends of the brass wire instead of cementing it with CA.  
 

This shows the two washers and one nut. As you can see they do need a little more work.  Hey, it's not easy holding these small buggers between my thumb and index finger and then file them 
 
Cheers,

Today was going to be the day to put some primer on the hull but before I could do that I had to install the cutwater firs.  Fortunately, it almost fit perfect and had to dress it down only in a few places.  I cemented it on with CA.
 
As the CA was curing I did some final sanding of the hull and then wiped it clean with a damp rag with enamel reducer.  The I started with the masking off of the topsides.
After I checked the masking that it I had closed all possible openings I took the model outside and sprayed a light coat of white primer on it.  It warmed up to about 65 F + 18C.
 
In the meantime that the prier was drying I made about 10 or so eye bolts for the rigging.  The kit supplied bass split pins are just too bulky.  I made three different sizes for the different functions in the rigging.  
 
I also finished making the bowsprit, main mast and boom.  Then I started with the gaff.  For the forked end or jaws as the kit calls it, I used boxwood instead of the kit supplied basswood.  I had a small piece of boxwood left over from the O19 dinghy that was just the right size.  I cut the two halves out to the measurements as shown on the drawings and filed the mating ends half round with a rat-tail file to fit the gaff.  I used CA again to glue them together.  Tomorrow I'll shave and file them to the correct size and looks.
 
In the afternoon when the primer had dried I sanded it down with 300 grit paper to find the high and low spots.  It'll require just a few spots that can use some wood filler and then another coat of primer.   
That's where I left it for today.
 
I think that was a day well spend and here are a few pics of the results.
 

 

 

This shows the hardware I made today.  Just below the #11 blade are the kit supplied split pins.  You can see how bulky they are and then try to put it into a 1/8 inch wooden dowel.  The combination on the left is what is to make the main boom swivel but instead I made an eye bolt to go through the mast and another eye bolt that'll go into the end of the boom.  They'll be connected with a pin so the boom can swivel and also to be removable.  
The largest eye bolt goes into the deck as guides for the sheets.  The middle ones can go into the mast and the smallest ones go into the ends of the bowsprit, boom, gaf and top of the mast.  They'll look a lot better then those bulky split pins.  
 
Cheers,

Not much done today.  This morning I had an appointment with my oncologist / surgeon doctor for a check how my bod is doing.  He was very happy and encouraged.  Well, that made two of us.  I'll have to see him again the 20th for an actual look-see inside.
 
I glued the two oarlock blocks to the deck as well as the modified samson post.
 
Now it was time to make the oarlocks.  I decided to make them from narrow strips of 0.5 mm brass shim and 0.5 mm brass rod for the posts.  I also cut two small pieces of 1 mm brass tubing for the receptacles that'll go into the blocks.
The kit instructions have you make the oarlocks by twisting two pieces of wire together for the post and then bend the two loose ends into a U shape.  The oarlocks will be permanently installed going it the kit's way and that's not the way it is in the real world.  You should be able to remove them when not in use otherwise they'll get in the way when hauling in the lobster traps in.  This just didn't suit me so I made tem the same way as I did for my sub model dinghy.
 
For the running rigging line guides they give you split-pins or cotter-keys.  Also not acceptable.  I'll make  eyebolts from brass rod . 
 
I did some more fiddling around, trying to remove some of those pesky wood fibers that keep popping up. Well, that's what to expect with basswood and poplar.  That wood hardener stuff works okay but there is always some things that need to be cleaned up.
 
I am also not happy at all with the cabin door hinges so I'll redo them as well.
 
Here are a few pics of today's efforts.
 

Here you see the three parts that make up the oarlocks and the receptacle.  I hand filed the oarlocks narrower after the pins were soldered in.  The two bushing are cemented into the wooden blocks.
 

Both oarlocks are now completed, rather simple.
 

This shows both oarlocks placed in there receptacles and ready for use.
 

This is the way I made my samson post for the bowsprit.  It'll slide between the uprights and under the cross beam.  Then it'll be "bolted" secure through the uprights posts.  In the real world the bowsprit is removable and I'd like to do the same here.  I guess I'll have to add a lower stay too.
 
Cheers,
 
 

More fiddling work done this morning like more sanding on the hull after I added another coat of wood hardener on, painted the aft-outside of the cabin bulkhead before starting the wrestle with the sliding hatch.
I decided to use 1 mm birch ply for the track guides instead of brass shim.  I felt that the brass would not hold up with the CA.  After the four small pieces were cut and CA'd on the hatch side braces I tried the fit.  Hmmm, not good, so I had to fiddle with the track width some more and that finally worked out okay.  Hatch slides nice and easy now.
 
I have made a few pics to show what it looks like.
 
After this was done I turned to the cabin doors.  I am using paper for the hinges.  After they are painted black it'll look like wrought iron 
I glued them on with a little thinned down TiteBond and let it cure.
 
Next step was to make mounting blocks for the oar locks that'll go on the deck just aft of the fish well, per the kit instructions.  The actual oarlocks I'll made tomorrow after I come back from the oncologist's visit.  
 
Then I made the three parts that'll make the bowsprit samson post.  I deviated from the drawing and made it the same way as I did on my Friendship Sloop model.
The bowsprit will slide between the verticals and cross beam and is secured with a bolt that'll run horizontal through the vertical posts.  These will be pinned and CA cemented to the deck.
I used poplar wood for these things instead of the kit supplied basswood.  I dislike that stuff and it was also what gave me greef with the hatch tracks.
 
I think that after these things are done I can finally cement the cutwater to the bow.  I'll be using a few bamboo pins to help secure it to the keel frame. 
 

This shows the hatch track with the groove for the track guides.
 

This shows the bottom or inside of the hatch with the four track guides cemented to the side braces.
 

Paper door hinges in a rough cut.  I'll dress them up after they are glued to the doors.
 

Door hinges glued to the doors.  They'll be ready for final trimming after te glue has set.
 

These are the door handles, also still in the rough.
 

Cabin doors are now installed and working.  This shows the doors in the closed position with the hatch closed.
 

Here the doors are open with the hatch slid forward, welcome into the cabin and enjoy a drink from the wet bar 
 

Pillows on the bunk mattresses.
 
Cheers,

Hello everyone,
 
I had to make a new cabin roof for this little boat and also a working hatch.  I could not use the kit supplied wood, it was just too flimsy to my liking.  I used the 1 mm birch plywood.  As is usual I made a paper template for the roof outline and the entry opening.
I also made the sliding hatch in the rough.  I had to wait till the roof was secure to install the sliding hatch rails.
The kit does not have a working hatch or working doors.  
 
Oh yeah, I also put the "glass" in for the portholes before the roof was permanently on cemented. 
 
First I had to glue the extra moulding in on the top of the cabin coaming for a better glue surface for the roof.  Then fairing everything for a good fit of the roof.  After the TiteBond glue had set enough I could then cement the roof on using the "slow set" CA.  I had to use all ten fingers to hold it down.
 
At this point I made the sliding roof rails.  I cut a groove in them on the outboard side for the slider hardware.  These will be made from 0.2 mm brass shim stock cemented to the hatch sides.
The hatch has stop strips on the forward and aft sides to prevent it from sliding off.
 
The slider hardware and doors will be my next project.  I did cut the doors out and started to fit them when it was time to close shop.  There is always another day.  The doors will be hinged. 
 
Okay, here are a few pics for you to peruse, 
 

This shows the cabin roof installed with the sliding hatch in the closed position.  It's still loose and waiting for the slider hardware.
 

This hows the sliding hatch in the open position.  You can see here the aft stop strip cemented to the underside of the hatch.
 

A peek inside.  I still have to make pillows and blankets for the bunks.
 

Here is a bow view.
 

This shows the prototype cabin doors being fitted.
 
Cheers,

Welcome back Adriaan, I'm looking forward to updates and a plethora of pictures 
 
Have a great and prosperous 2015.
 
Cheers,

I am  back
 
everyone have a good new year
 
all building has been on hold due to celebrating and then afterwards the discovery of some wood eating pests that most likely have gotten away with a few parts.
 
as my workbench is partially unusable it might be a bit for I start again. I first want to catch up with the pearl as I am 2 months behind on her

Progress report.  I have been messing around in the cabin and made two bunks with mattresses on the port side.  Then I made a fake cabinet on the starboard side with a little table.  The cabinet is just a plank with the cabinet doors and mouldings scribed into it.  
 
I am looking for some material for the blankets.  I may have to go to the fabric store and see if they can give me a a few square inches.  For the mattresses I used small pieces of styrofoam and wrapped pieces of an old handkerchief around it.  With the blankets over it it should look quite nice.
 
I made the helm from boxwood and soaked it in water overnight and bend it around my coffee cup and clamped it till it was dry.  I stained it in New England MapleI and used the same stain for the cockpit benches and the cabin furniture.
I painted the cabin walls white as the bulwarks.  I used Testors flat white, looks okay.   
 
I installed the rudder and helm.  It works 
 
I am ready to cement the deck to the hull but am rather apprehensive doing it.  The kit plans call for using slow acting CA but even with that I am afraid that I don't have enough time to position the deck properly. I have done a few dry runs and I do need more time positioning it properly then the CA gives me.  
I'm really leaning towards using Titebond glue and plenty of elastic bands to clamp it down.  Right now I'm not committed yet to which glue I'll be using.
 
Okay, here are a few pics of how the sloop looks like as of today.
 

This shows the finished benches and the helm.  The deck is just laying loose on top of the hull.  Thinking about the paint scheme, I may just paint the frames, bulwarks and bulkheads green.  I'll use the same green for the cabin coamings, toe rails, trail boards and wales.  I think to paint it red below the waterline and white above the waterline.  Just thinking ahead right now.
You may also see a pencil outline to where I thought in trimming some decking away.  This too is still up in the air.  It seems strange to me to have such a wide deck area where they man-handle lobster traps in and out.  But then again, why make extra work for me.
 

This hows the two bunks with the mattresses.  Yup, it's a fist class cabin, nothing but the best. 
 

This shows the starboard side of the cabin with the fake cupboard and table.  The cupboard is still  made to fit after the coaming and roof are being installed.  Thinking of adding a strip of wood around the top of the coaming for extra glue area for the cabin roof.
 

 
Cheers.

thanks Kevin
 
first a picture of my work area after the changes. on the right the 2 workbenches made from a 5 tier shelving unit.
 
no progress tonight
 
as I am trying to catch up with the Black Pearl build ( I am about 7 issues behind) this build might slow down a bit during the next weeks.
 
pictures show the holes I finished off during the weekend
 

Hello everyone, I trust all y'all had a great holiday.
 
I finally finished the dinghy for my O19 submarine model and can spend more time on this little boat.
In between jobs I managed to finish the cockpit seat and installed it.  
I'm now moving forward and started on making the bunks for the little cabin.  The lower bunk is all glued in but the top bunk still needs to be finished.  I'm holding off with that one till I have scrounged up "stuff" for the mattress and bedding materials before I can glue the top bunk in for excess to the lower bunk.  I still need to stain the bulkhead planking before I can finalize the bunks.
I don't know yet about other furniture beside a table.  A stove would be nice but I need to think about that one.  It would pose a real fire hazzard and we need to put some asbestos heat shields in    OSHA and the EPA will not be happy with that idea   
 
I also made the gudgeons and pintles for the rudder today but need to wait with installing the rudder till the cabin interior is finished.  That'll be the last thing to do before I can put the deck on.
 
Here are a few picks of the work so far.
 

 

 

I made lockers under the benches to stow "stuff" in.  
 

Perhaps not standard equipment, having two bunks but I figured - why not.  I plan to add 2 mm to the cabin roof to give the top bunk a little more headroom 
 
Cheers,

Thank you George for your kind words and thanks to all for visiting and clicking the like button.
 
Did some work on this little sloop.  I made the bench seat for the cockpit out of a piece of 1.5 mm boxwood that I cut out of a previously made plank.  I made that plank for another project out of a larger timber on my 10 inch bench saw and smoothed it down with a belt sander.
 
Looking at the photo I think I'll have to make it a little narrower and also narrower planks.  I kinda followed the kit drawing but it just looks a little to big.  
There'll be (fake) storage lockers under the seats therefore the seat planking will have to be close together to keep most of the water out of the lockers
 
There is some more cleaning and tweeking to be done with other things as well but I'm progressing.
 

 

 
Cheers, 

As promised yesterday the pictures.
 
Now I can play with the  2 mm blocks......
When the first one is done I will post another picture of that to see if I'm on the right track.
Enjoy your sunday and do the things that you have to do.
 
Sjors
 
 

Thanks Mobbsie, Nick and Lawrence,
 
@ Mobbsie,
 
I have make 2 breech ropes.
At the end of this post you will see a picture of it.
 
@ Nick,
 
Thank you   
And for you also the best wishes from the two of us !
 
@ Lawrence,
 
You have to wait a little longer for the rigged cannons.
I'm just playing with the breech ropes yet.
But thank you !
 
As I promised to Mobbsie and someone else who is yelling about pictures, I will post two.
It cost me the whole morning to make one breech rope,
I have to figure out what works for me.
I think I found it because the other one takes me about 1/2 hour   
The light is not that good , I have to use artificial light.
Still it is in the middle of the day and it's just so grey outside that I need the lights.
But you can see what I have done so far.
The first picture are the two breech ropes, the second one is with her teeth outside the hull !
 
Sjors
 

The cannons for the lower gun deck are painted and on the carriages.
The 10 carriages and cannons in the middle have the eyebolts for the rigging.
The others around it will have no rigging.
They are hiding under the different decks like the upper deck and poop deck and maybe another deck 
Next thing to do is place the cannons and then I can start the rigging......of the cannons !
Putting eyebolts in the bulwark and of we go 
 
Sjors
 
 

Because it's the day for Christmas and I think it is time to post a few pictures.......
 
The quarter galley at the starboard side are also in place.
The transom decorations are also there.
I have re-do the letters 4 times because it was not what I was looking for.
And don't forget I have a few extra pair eyes in the house........Anja.
She is really my biggest criticus !!!!!!!!!!!!
The railing on the balcony is soft metal.
I have seen on the picture that it is not totally straight.
I will keep it like this at the moment and later on I will try to straighten it.
Now it is time to start at the cannons on the lower gun deck.
That means painting, painting and painting...........
And of course the rigging of those things.
I have received 2 mm blocks from Grant, so wish me luck with the tiny stuff !
When the first one is done, I'll will post a picture of it.
 
Sjors
 
 
Then a last thing from both of us....
 
A Merry Christmas and all the best in good health for 2015 !
 
 Anja & Sjors