Adrieke

about 2 months I subscribed to the Build the black Pearl from Hachette as it was just released in Australia.
 
it was my attempt to get back into building after a long time of no activity, as I figured there wouldn't be much work to do each week. each delivery contains 4 issues , but I will stick to doing one a week. for about a month I was working on another project (a bf gift for my wife) but now I am catching up again.
 
I ll be doing a post with some pictures every week )
 

Hi Guys,
 
Time really flies and boy am I due an update.
 
Thanks for all the comments guys and for those that hit the like button.
 
I've experienced a bit of aggro fitting the frames into my jig, the jig seemed to be too big and the frames flopped around inside when fitted.
 
It turned out to be two things, firstly the top cut outs on the jig were deep and so did not hold the frames as it should, secondly my centre line on the jig was out of alignment, bearing in mind this was my first practice piece it's hardly surprising.
 
I was also having a bit of trouble with my glue, it just wasn't holding the 9 parts of each frame together. Following advice from my build partners I changed the glue and although it's early days this new glue seems to be doing the job.
 
The glue I was using was Ever Build 502 which stood me in good stead for the time I was building the Agamemnon, this glue only has a life of 12 months after the date of manufacture and unfortunately there is no date on it, anyway I got some Evo-Stik weatherproof wood adhesive, seems to be good stuff. 
 
The long and short of it is that a new Frame Jig was made, this time properly and it's now doing the business.
 
Both Grant and I differ on this next area, it's only athetics, I wont go into what Grants doing but I am not putting treenails in the frames. Looking at AOT's there are bolts around the bottom section of each frame, I decided to use 0.7mm oval head brass pins for these bolts with 0.7mm flat head brass pins on the revers side. I decided to leave these brass colour, you know me, that's the look I like.
 
Enough chat, I have a few pics showing you where I'm at, please, if you have any comments / remarks don't be afraid to ask or make suggestions. I'm here to learn.
 
The first two pics are of the new jig
 
 
These are the first 5 frames 0, A,  B, C and D, 0 and D frames are doubles

 
This is the 0 frame showing the bolts.

 
This is the jig with the 5 completed frame in position

 
So your right up to date now guys, destructive then constructive comments are always welcome.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

Although the assembly line is still going full throttle, thought it was time for an update.
 
I set up a mock cannon station (thanks, MOBBSIE) to verify the required length of the breech lines.  Turns out, Chuck was dead on with 3 1/4", eye to eye.  One eyebolt/ring is seized to one end of the line, a second eye/ring slipped on then the cannon (and one more eye/ring).  Then the other end is seized to an eye/ring at the exact length.  That's 0.018 Morope by the way:
 

 
The cannon was then glued to the carraige and the loose eyebolts attached to pre-drilled holes.  The cap squares over the trunnions were simulated with short strips of 1500 grit sandpaper.  I have used painted artists tape in the past but this was much easier.  
 
The assembled gun was then glued to the deck and the breech line rings attached to pre-drilled holes in the bulwark:
 

 
Here are the sternmost 5 guns in position.  Keep in mind that these guns will be totally obscured by the quarterdeck overhead:
 

 
I experimented with the tackles but they just look too crowded to my eye.  I'll re-evaluate when all guns are positioned.
 
Here's what it looks like from outside:
 

 
Finally, Ron from NZ asked for an overall shot:
 

 
Being a 'few' guns short of a 21 gun salute, I'll get back to work and hope to have then all in by Christmas.  No rush ---- I'm having too much fun.  Heck, the Admiral (who last wandered over to my side of the shop when I was cutting out the bulkheads) proclaimed 'This looks pretty nice  ----- but where do you THINK you're going to put it'?  I have about another year to negotiate  .
 
Everyone stay well.  And keep making my day with your updates.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I wanted to post pictures a few day's ago and when I see the pictures......
I don't want to do that !
A few all ready saying it and now I'm telling you this also.
Pictures don't lie !!!!!!!
So,I removed everything on the bow section and start all over again.
Here is the end result of that.
 
Sjors
 
 
 

Hello Popeye, yep, this is a special project for the "Wounded Warrior" program that Sawdust Dave cooked up for next April.  First I thought in making a larger version of my O19 dinghy but that wouldn't ring a bell here.  So I thought building a small model of an old Yankee work boat of the mid to late 1800ds.  I just love this style of boats anyway and fall in love with the kit.  I purchased it from Model Shipworld.
Yeah, the balsa was a bear to work with but wanted to find out what a novice kit builder has to face using it.  Yes, the drawings and instructions are really very nice and could easily be used for a scratch build.
Thanks for the kind words.
 
Hi Hexnut, thanks for the kind words my friend, appreciate it coming from you.  Thanks also for the heads-up about the bunk being on the starboard side.  I did plan on planking the inside and adding a few knees for under the deck   I guess just one bunk, right?  There is a way for people seeing the inside through the entry door and sliding hatch so a little detail would be nice.  I have 0.65 mm plywood that'll be good for the interior.  The bunk can be cemented to a pair of cleats to the bulkheds.  I did make and installed the cabin deck / floor but forgot to scribe the plank lines in it.  I'll have to try and do that as well.  
 
I may just place the hypothetical centerboard well just aft of the cabin with the two fish wells next to it.  
 
I'm still kinda in a quandary about the cockpit area, haven't made up my mind how to proceed.  Am thinking though to lower the floor somewhat though as you have done but as an after thought it's not that simple.  I'm also going to plank the actual "floor" of the work area with 1 X 6 mm poplar planks.  Then some extra fake frames on the sides.
 
Happy to hear that you like the hull shape.  Yeah, I kinda like it myself   
 
I pulled a few pics from my own designed Friendship sloop model for you to look at.  
 

This is looking straight down into the cabin area. There is a dry-chem toilet with a sink in the head, there are 4 bunk beds with the top ones sliding out to the center, the galley has a cooking area with a propane  3 burner grid on the port side, a sink, refrigerator on the starboard side and plenty storage.  There is more storage under the cockpit deck with access behind the entry steps.  I have no engine in it just an electric outboard motor run off batteries.  That's just for mooring.  If I were actually going to build this 1:1 scale I'd get a small diesel generator to run all the electric stuff.  They have them now that run really very quiet. 
 

This is another view looking aft.  I have a table in the center with folding blades on each side.  Here it's almost ready for the cabin roof.
 
Cheers,

I managed to cement all the planking sheets to the hull yesterday and today.  Wow, anyone in his / her right mind using balsa wood for planking should see a shrink    with me as numero uno.  That's one tough job and do it right.  I like to see a 12 year old tackle this one, not easy!!!
 
The instruction manuel tels us to put the "sloe acting" CA on all the frames and strakes.  Well, that doesn't work to well because there is just too much area and curves.  When holding one end down and working to the other end the first part starts to op back up and then the CA dried up.  I worked only small parts at a time which worked okay for me.
 
Of course the added difficulty is that I did it without the deck already glued on.  It's the top planking piece I needed to be particularly careful with not to snap pieces off or cracking the edges, which did happen but was reparable with some CA gel.  
 
On top of that, the upper hull plank has compound curves at the bow and stern ends, complicating things quite a bit.
 
Being the typical stubborn old Dutchman I had to try using the balsa just to find out what a novice would be facing.
If I would scratch build this little smack I will plank it the old fashioned way with 1 mm thick planks from some decent wood.  That's what I did with my Friendship sloop "Gwenfra."  Yup, I named it after my dear wife. 
 
If using balsa for the side planking I would consider glueing paper over it bonding it with an acrylic polymer like Liquitex glazing medium.  I have used this with great success in the past.  The paper gives the balsa extra strength.  If not then at least follow the advice in the construction manual and use Floquil glaze.  I have a can of Minwax Wood hardener that works great in strengthening soft woods.  It also gives the wood a good base for wood putty and any kind of pant.  CA adheres to it also quite well.
 
After the hull was planked I trimmed it all nice and neat and sanded it down some.  After that I brushed this Minwax wood hardener on all the wood, inside and outside and let it dry.
 
The instruction booklet also mentions that there may be areas that need some wood filler.   Yep, indeed, they are correct in that.  No matter how careful one is it'll never come out perfect.  So, hopefully I can proceed to to just that tomorrow.  This way I can work on both this smack and the O19 dinghy between filler and glue drying 
 
I also managed to glue both now filler blocks and started shaping them.  I thought in giving the bow  concave sides, looks nicer I think then the straight sides.  
 
Okay, that's it for today and now a few pics.
 

 

 

 
Cheers, 
 
 
 
 

Hello boys and girls and my thanks to all who dropped in and left a like vote, much appreciated.
 
I managed to install the keel strip and side battens.  I had to make a few adjustments in the notches and also added a few reinforcements to the now weekend frame ends.  I started with the fairing and according the instructions I can expect areas that may not fair out quite right.  Well, they are right and I'll have to add strips of basswood to the battens and bulkhead sides in several locations as wel as the transom.  
At least the kit producer has added this note, which is appropriate and expected.  
 
I'll try to do just that tomorrow between working on the O19 dinghy.  I am now soaking the planks for that project and plan to start planking that little dinghy.  While the glue cures on that project I can devote some time on the lobster smack.
 
Here are a few pics of the work done so far.
 

 

 

 
Cheers,

Hello everyone.  Just a very small update on the dinghy v. 2.2 dinghy saga.
 
I am soaking a bunch of "planks" in water so I can shape them over the hull frames and this morning I laid-uo the wet garboard strake.  I used a bunch of small wooden cloths pins to hold it in shape.  When the wood had dried I cemented it to the hull using CA.
Hopefully I can cement the next two planks on tomorrow.  I have already two wet ones clamped to the hull to shape them.
As with version 1.0 I can only install two in one day, unless I soak them in alcohol and may just give that a try.
 
Okay here is one pic to show yuns what it looks like.
 

 
Cheers,

thanks Kevin
 
first a picture of my work area after the changes. on the right the 2 workbenches made from a 5 tier shelving unit.
 
no progress tonight
 
as I am trying to catch up with the Black Pearl build ( I am about 7 issues behind) this build might slow down a bit during the next weeks.
 
pictures show the holes I finished off during the weekend
 

thanks Kevin
 
first a picture of my work area after the changes. on the right the 2 workbenches made from a 5 tier shelving unit.
 
no progress tonight
 
as I am trying to catch up with the Black Pearl build ( I am about 7 issues behind) this build might slow down a bit during the next weeks.
 
pictures show the holes I finished off during the weekend
 

thanks Kevin
 
first a picture of my work area after the changes. on the right the 2 workbenches made from a 5 tier shelving unit.
 
no progress tonight
 
as I am trying to catch up with the Black Pearl build ( I am about 7 issues behind) this build might slow down a bit during the next weeks.
 
pictures show the holes I finished off during the weekend
 

thanks Kevin
 
first a picture of my work area after the changes. on the right the 2 workbenches made from a 5 tier shelving unit.
 
no progress tonight
 
as I am trying to catch up with the Black Pearl build ( I am about 7 issues behind) this build might slow down a bit during the next weeks.
 
pictures show the holes I finished off during the weekend
 

thanks Piet. i didnt think about the portholes and followed the instructions on putting them 10 mm below the lower strake.
looking at some pictures you are right (ofcourse). since there is not much difference i wil lkeep them as they are now , but something to remember if i ever do a ship similar (already got one in mind )
 
thanks Popeye. they supply small rivets to simitate them, but i ll have a look at you rbuild too
 
thanks dragzz
 
did some work on my workspace and also finaly the replacement part for the black pearl build has arrived so i started on that build again
 
i did finish drilling al lthe holes for the portholes, several holes for some eyelets that need to be atached and ofcourse the 2 holes for the anchor . unfortunately i didnt take any pictures , but i ll try to get some tonight

thanks Kevin
 
first a picture of my work area after the changes. on the right the 2 workbenches made from a 5 tier shelving unit.
 
no progress tonight
 
as I am trying to catch up with the Black Pearl build ( I am about 7 issues behind) this build might slow down a bit during the next weeks.
 
pictures show the holes I finished off during the weekend
 

thanks Piet. i didnt think about the portholes and followed the instructions on putting them 10 mm below the lower strake.
looking at some pictures you are right (ofcourse). since there is not much difference i wil lkeep them as they are now , but something to remember if i ever do a ship similar (already got one in mind )
 
thanks Popeye. they supply small rivets to simitate them, but i ll have a look at you rbuild too
 
thanks dragzz
 
did some work on my workspace and also finaly the replacement part for the black pearl build has arrived so i started on that build again
 
i did finish drilling al lthe holes for the portholes, several holes for some eyelets that need to be atached and ofcourse the 2 holes for the anchor . unfortunately i didnt take any pictures , but i ll try to get some tonight

thanks Kevin
 
first a picture of my work area after the changes. on the right the 2 workbenches made from a 5 tier shelving unit.
 
no progress tonight
 
as I am trying to catch up with the Black Pearl build ( I am about 7 issues behind) this build might slow down a bit during the next weeks.
 
pictures show the holes I finished off during the weekend
 

thanks Kevin
 
first a picture of my work area after the changes. on the right the 2 workbenches made from a 5 tier shelving unit.
 
no progress tonight
 
as I am trying to catch up with the Black Pearl build ( I am about 7 issues behind) this build might slow down a bit during the next weeks.
 
pictures show the holes I finished off during the weekend
 

WEEK 16 - 18
 
these issues contain metal parts depicting barrels, bottles and basket and boxes with vegetables, fruit , potatoes and so on.
 
so far all the parts have been primed and the main color applied.
 
desert yellow for the sacks and wicker baskets
 
NATO brown for the barrels and wooden boxes
 
black for the bottles
 
lots of painting will be necessary to get them to look good, although probably most of these will be hardly visible on the lower deck

WEEK 15
 
all the parts for the bottle rack are included
 
I covered the outside with left over strips. this because I don't like how the MDF wood looks with the staining.
 
I might add some more strips to the front wooden parts so that the color will be more consistent
 

WEEK 15
 
all the parts for the bottle rack are included
 
I covered the outside with left over strips. this because I don't like how the MDF wood looks with the staining.
 
I might add some more strips to the front wooden parts so that the color will be more consistent
 

WEEK 16 - 18
 
these issues contain metal parts depicting barrels, bottles and basket and boxes with vegetables, fruit , potatoes and so on.
 
so far all the parts have been primed and the main color applied.
 
desert yellow for the sacks and wicker baskets
 
NATO brown for the barrels and wooden boxes
 
black for the bottles
 
lots of painting will be necessary to get them to look good, although probably most of these will be hardly visible on the lower deck

thanks Kevin
 
first a picture of my work area after the changes. on the right the 2 workbenches made from a 5 tier shelving unit.
 
no progress tonight
 
as I am trying to catch up with the Black Pearl build ( I am about 7 issues behind) this build might slow down a bit during the next weeks.
 
pictures show the holes I finished off during the weekend
 

hi Piet, thanks for the advice. and I agree with your reasoning and run it parallel with the sheer
 
but that's for the weekend.
 
today I worked on drilling the holes for the portholes. not an easy task when the instructions say to start at the middle of the ship, but where is the middle.
 
using some off the pictures in the instructions I calculated the middle and used some wood strips to mark the positions.
 
before drilling I checked again with the upper pre drilled holes and found out I was off by about 25 mm
even after this adjustment , they still do not correspond completely with the overall picture of the ship, so I assume there are errors in the measurements that where given.
 
after drilling I inserted the rivets to see the effect and it looks good I think
 
i still need to do the other side and will be looking through the instructions to find any other holes that need to be drilled before i start on cleaning up the paintwork
 

thanks Carl for your confidence
 
making the curve will be easy , I am more concerned with the fact that the strake will need to be fixed to the hull at a corner and not one off the sides. so not much contact. my resolve is to flatten to corner in the middle of the curve to give a bigger area of contact. I am just not sure how it will look
 
A quick update from tonight.
 
2 parts of the lower strake are now attached. tomorrow ill attach the ones on the other side. then I will be able to get a rough idea on the shape of the curve.
 
I temporarily attached the albatross to make sure the strake fits snug against it
 
 
 

thanks Piet and Mobbsie
 
I know I still have lots to clean up but I am really enjoying the build again
 
I started on the lower green strake now. I am not looking forward to fitting the curved bow part of it tough