Adrieke

WEEK 24 - 28
 
brings all parts for the in and outside walls of the gun deck
 
most of the work is done, just need to put them in place. but that will have to wait till I receive the next shipment of my lights
 
I have made some holes in the outside walls to tread the wiring around the bulkheads
 
the inside wall is actually 3 pieces but after checking I can still slide it in I put them all together and planked them.
 
I am almost out of those left over strips (7x0.6x500) but I should have enough to finish the 4 doors and 2 bulkheads
 
hopefully I wont need any more from then on
 
 

beautiful model Piet
 
I love following your logs and see how you do things, helps me a lot

Upper gun deck is planked !
 
A strange thing but I have white parts in the wood.
I have try to remove it by sanding and then 2 layers of tung oil on it but it don't work.
So I let it this way.
When all the fiddly stuff ( gratings , ladders , steering wheel and betings and more of that funny stuff ) are in place I think you don't see it anymore.
Otherwise remember that in de early century's also the wood was not the same     
( I don't know who told me that but I like it )
 
Between the planking I have make the false keel and frames of the 32 Ft Pinnace.....
Mobbsie told me that those Pinnace 's are kits of them own.
So for the price of one kit , you have 5 kits     ( 4 Pinnace's )
 
Enough talking, time for pictures !
 
Sjors

WEEK 24 - 28
 
brings all parts for the in and outside walls of the gun deck
 
most of the work is done, just need to put them in place. but that will have to wait till I receive the next shipment of my lights
 
I have made some holes in the outside walls to tread the wiring around the bulkheads
 
the inside wall is actually 3 pieces but after checking I can still slide it in I put them all together and planked them.
 
I am almost out of those left over strips (7x0.6x500) but I should have enough to finish the 4 doors and 2 bulkheads
 
hopefully I wont need any more from then on
 
 

WEEK 24 - 28
 
brings all parts for the in and outside walls of the gun deck
 
most of the work is done, just need to put them in place. but that will have to wait till I receive the next shipment of my lights
 
I have made some holes in the outside walls to tread the wiring around the bulkheads
 
the inside wall is actually 3 pieces but after checking I can still slide it in I put them all together and planked them.
 
I am almost out of those left over strips (7x0.6x500) but I should have enough to finish the 4 doors and 2 bulkheads
 
hopefully I wont need any more from then on
 
 

WEEK 24 - 28
 
brings all parts for the in and outside walls of the gun deck
 
most of the work is done, just need to put them in place. but that will have to wait till I receive the next shipment of my lights
 
I have made some holes in the outside walls to tread the wiring around the bulkheads
 
the inside wall is actually 3 pieces but after checking I can still slide it in I put them all together and planked them.
 
I am almost out of those left over strips (7x0.6x500) but I should have enough to finish the 4 doors and 2 bulkheads
 
hopefully I wont need any more from then on
 
 

here the adjustments I did to the columns
 
first picture is a shot before
 
second picture shows the two sliced of parts. I make 2 45 degree cuts at the top and bottom and then make a cut from one end to the other to remove it. then repeat on the other side
 
 
last picture the finished product all it needs is a bit of sanding and then staining

beautiful model Piet
 
I love following your logs and see how you do things, helps me a lot

WEEK 24 - 28
 
brings all parts for the in and outside walls of the gun deck
 
most of the work is done, just need to put them in place. but that will have to wait till I receive the next shipment of my lights
 
I have made some holes in the outside walls to tread the wiring around the bulkheads
 
the inside wall is actually 3 pieces but after checking I can still slide it in I put them all together and planked them.
 
I am almost out of those left over strips (7x0.6x500) but I should have enough to finish the 4 doors and 2 bulkheads
 
hopefully I wont need any more from then on
 
 

Hi Guys,
 
Thanks very much for your very kind comments and for hitting the like button.
 
Time for an update.
 
The " fix " on the Gunports and sweep ports is complete with all ports relined, I did notice that my sweep ports appeared larger than they should be, so it was out with the dividers again and measurements were taken yet again, yep all sweep ports were larger by upto 3/64 and so further work was required. This work has been done so further progress can now be made.
 
I have started working on the Floor Riders, Futtock Riders and Keelson, another problem !!!!!!!!!!. When fitting the Floor Riders over the Keelson the bottom of the Riders did not come into contact with the frames, Oh bugger what to do now ??????
 
There are so many things to consider when trying to come up with a solution, my main concern was the height of the Floor Riders and the Height of the Shell Room when fitting the Mortar Pit Beams, I'm now working 5 steps ahead and it's making my head hurt.
 
I had several solutions to consider,
 
1, Recut the Floor Riders and leave a bigger foot on the rider, question, Would this make the rider to high and effect the height of the Shell Room ?
 
2, Make a deeper cut in the part of the Floor Rider that fits over the Keelson, for me that's fraught with the danger of making the cut too deep.
 
3, Notch out the Keelson, if the Keelson needs to be replaced it's a fairly simple job and so this is the way I decided to go.
 
The feet now sit on the frames and they should be the right height for the Shell Room and Mortar Pit Beams.
 
But for now the pictures are just concentrating on the on the frame fix.
 
Notching for a Gunport Lintel, this is a smashing little saw.

 
Finishing off with the file

 
All the Sweep Ports and Gunports have been cut back and are ready for lining.

 
Port side linings

 
Starboard side linings

 
Also the rubber bands have been removed, the spacing blocks, lintels and filling pieces have made the frames really strong.
 
So there we are, hopefully I will be able to make a further update when the Floor Riders are in place.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie

Hi Guys,
 
I thought it was about time I put pen to paper and came up with an update, just to let you know I haven't fallen of the planet.
 
All the frames are now glued onto the keel and that showed my first problem, not all the frames fitted the jig fully, a few were as much as 2mm in from the outside of the jig, this presented a problem when it came down to sanding the inside of the frames, they need to be tight so there is no rocking when sanding.
 
The problem was solved by using Spanions method which is to place elastic bands around each frame and fix to a point of your choosing, this holds the frames tight to the jig edge. I chose to drill the jig from the top and place round head pins in, the bands were then pulled tight around the pins, great,   until you don't pick the jig up by the sides, I now have nicely punctured finger tips.   
 
I glued the first 8 frames and when the glued had dried they were sanded down, I have one frame which is a little out of line and it was a case of either cut the Futtock Rider to fit or make up a new frame, I tried adjusting the Rider which worked well so that worked out ok. Once the first 8 frames were sanded I then fitted the final 4 frames and fared them down. There is a small rise in frames 9 to12 and they have to be sanded at a slightly different angle.
 
With the inside completed I turned my attention to the outside, first job was to mark the height, frames D1 TO 4 ( 9 frames ) are level and flat, frames 5 to 12 are sloped with frame 12 being the highest. There is still a fair bit of movement in the frames which needs to be reduced to virtually nothing, this was achieved by placing 2.5mm blocks between each frame at a point above the water line where the hull planking will cover them up, the tops of the frames were also blocked at this time, this also served to strengthen some of the weaker frames.
 
Next up was the Gunport Sills, Sweep Sills and Filling Lintels, more problems, these were down to my c--p joinery skills and not the drawing's. If I put the sills in place without any work they would end up looking like a mountain range, so measurements and levels were taken and out came the sanding sticks and files which were applied to the Port side. The Sills were the first to receive the treatment with new levels being made, most of the notches which had been pre-cut were sanded back, so with all the mistakes removed the Sills and Linings were added to the Gunports and Sweep Sills, The Filling Lintels were next to be attacked, as it happens they turned out to be quite easy to make and so in they went. A little more sanding and an acceptable finish was reached bearing in mind that this work will all be covered with planking. The Portside took 3 days to repair so I have the same to look forward to on the Starboard side.
 
Whilst waiting for glue to dry and the need to change tasks I made the following, Keelson, Mortar Pit Deck Clamps ( Upper and Lower Strakes ) and the Upper Deck Clamps ( Upper and Lower Strakes ). I also cut out on the scroll saw the Futtock and Floor riders, these are not finished yet because they will require fitting individually.
 
At this point I want to thank Grant for keeping me on the right track regarding the timber, I got a little confused with what timber to use and so consulted my mentor, things were explained and backsides kicked, thanks mate. At this point mate I decided to keep you on.     
 
I should imagine your about ready for some pics, if your not suicidal by now. 
 
Portside clamped up waiting for the glue to dry on the blocks

 
Just a few more clamps on the Starboard side.

 
This is Spanions method of holding the frames.

 
Profile of the frames prior to sanding down.

 
You can see the nature of my problem.

 
The finished Portside, bearing in mind it is to be planked over.

 
So there we are guys, your right up to date. Next job is to finish the Starboard side, fit the Keelson and work on the Futtock and Floor riders.
 
Be Good
 
mobbsie
 
 

Thanks to everyone for following this build, your input and kind words.  I really enjoyed i,t especially with all of you visiting.
 
This will be my last post for this build and will try to put her in the Gallery.
 
I still have a few months so I may continue fiddling with it some more, a little touchup here and there.
 
Here are a few pics i took this morning for the Gallery, I like to close this log with a few pics.  Come and visit me with the 019 and the VOC ship in the scratch build part.  And who knows - - - I may even start the Dutch botter or kotter in a lamp.
 

 

 

 
Cheers to all,
 

Thank you, thank you, thank you - - - he says with a deep bow and a big smile   Very much appreciated!
 
Well, we have arrived at the end of this build.  There is actually one more detail left to do, Amateur Jan's lobster    But he'll have to wait till I catch a few 
 
I haven't made the final pictures yet for the Gallery, I'll do that tomorrow and post a few here.
 
I finally decided on a name for this special build.  It came to me Thursday night as was in bed waiting for the sandman to come.  I didn't want a "sissy" name or something mundane and how can I tie the name in with the purpose of this endeavor, Wounded Warrior?  There it was, Warrior!  Not Wounded anything, just Warrior.  
 
I cheated - - - I typed it up in green and 14 point and printed it out.  So, Friday morning I cut the name tags out and glued them to the hull using Liquitex medium.  
 
Just for fun, I made a coke bottle and two glasses to toast the successful completion of the build    In the second picture I put that bottle and glasses on the sliding hatch.  Any one for more will have to go into the cabin and raid the wet bar.  Sjors on the dock with the popcorn machine 
 
Then I thought, hey, we need an anchor.  I Googled anchors and found a nice simple one that was used on landing craft during WW II.  So, I cut some metal and made an anchor.  The blades are 0.1 mm brass shim, the post is 1 mm square brass stock that I soldered to a small piece of 1 mm brass tubing.  Put a piece of 0.5 mm brass rod through is and then soldered the blades to the rod, one on each side of the tube.  The blades can actually rotate to grab the sea floor.  Then a brass eyelet on the end of the post for the anchor rope.  Who would have thunk it, an honest to goodness workable anchor 
 
I hope I can post the final pics to the Gallery, have to read up on it.
 
Alright folks, here are a few pics of the last details.
 

This bottle was used for the "christening" of the boat. 
 

We are ready for a toast, cheers to all.
 

 

 

 

This shows the completed anchor on my work bench. 
 

This shows the anchor ready to be dropped and lashed to the samson post.
 
Cheers, 

Seems I have not checked in here in a while. I may have pictures in a few days. I have got the masts and spars ready to be rigged. I am running into some tough going with holding on the lower round pieces onto the round mast. I actually drilled a hole and put a pin In to help line it up since it just would not stay. I've put in some time but really don't feel I have much to show for it so be patient and I will get pictures eventually. : :) I have also been fixing pieces that just did not want to stay glued together.....

here the adjustments I did to the columns
 
first picture is a shot before
 
second picture shows the two sliced of parts. I make 2 45 degree cuts at the top and bottom and then make a cut from one end to the other to remove it. then repeat on the other side
 
 
last picture the finished product all it needs is a bit of sanding and then staining

I shouldn't be surprised about instructions being wrong.
 
today I noticed that the little tabs on the ribs that will hold the parts with the gunports are on the wrong side.
 
they are on the side that is going to be open
 
thinking I made a mistake early on I went back to have a look and yup its the instructions that are wrong
 
in the picture on the right it shows the tabs on the right when facing the bow
in the one on the left it shows them on the left
 
this means I will need to cut them off and somehow add them on the other side

everything is now finished up to week 23
 
the first picture shows with red lines where the wiring will go
 
a view of how she looks at the moment with the lights on

here the adjustments I did to the columns
 
first picture is a shot before
 
second picture shows the two sliced of parts. I make 2 45 degree cuts at the top and bottom and then make a cut from one end to the other to remove it. then repeat on the other side
 
 
last picture the finished product all it needs is a bit of sanding and then staining

Haven't really made enough progress for a proper update but there's something important I need to point out ... and now is the time.
 
The bulkhead beakhead doors were made the usual way by laminating 3 sections together, thinning them down, applying the finish and hardware.  They required only minor adjustments to fit the openings properly.  The two outermost doors will be covered by the roundhouses down the road.
 

 
Next, we fabricated the bowsprit step out of 3/16 and 1/4" strips.  After painting, it was securely pinned to the deck:
 

 
OK, here's what I wanted to discuss.  The bowsprit hole in the beakhead is quite a bit undersized for the bowsprit.  The bowsprit will be tapered but the hole still needs to be enlarged.  With the stem already in place, getting the proper angle and size on that hole is somewhat problematic.  Also, the next steps will include installing additional deck fittings as well as forecastle deck beams which will largely cover the bowsprit step.  I could visualize painting myself into a corner and being unable to properly fit the bowsprit 6 months from now.  So I fabricated and aligned this NOW and I'd strongly suggest you do something similar.  If you check Rusty's great Confed log you'll see that he left off the upper part of the stem (that which holds the figurehead) at this point ----that would give you room to work.  But I didn't think that far ahead.
 
I don't like breaking out my dad's old Craftsman 1/2" drill for work on a 1:64 ship model.  So I slowly enlarged the hole using slightly tapered sticks (old paint brush handles) wrapped in sandpaper.  Yes, it's just this side of Neanderthal (and slow) but it works..... and nothing got destroyed in the process.  Here's what we have:
 

 

 
The bowsprit has a tenon cut in to sit nicely in the step.  That will need to be painted red just prior to final installation.
 
Didn't mean to bore anyone with this as I'm sure you all know it's good to think ahead.  But now my conscience is clear.
 
 
 

everything is now finished up to week 23
 
the first picture shows with red lines where the wiring will go
 
a view of how she looks at the moment with the lights on

here the adjustments I did to the columns
 
first picture is a shot before
 
second picture shows the two sliced of parts. I make 2 45 degree cuts at the top and bottom and then make a cut from one end to the other to remove it. then repeat on the other side
 
 
last picture the finished product all it needs is a bit of sanding and then staining

everything is now finished up to week 23
 
the first picture shows with red lines where the wiring will go
 
a view of how she looks at the moment with the lights on

I shouldn't be surprised about instructions being wrong.
 
today I noticed that the little tabs on the ribs that will hold the parts with the gunports are on the wrong side.
 
they are on the side that is going to be open
 
thinking I made a mistake early on I went back to have a look and yup its the instructions that are wrong
 
in the picture on the right it shows the tabs on the right when facing the bow
in the one on the left it shows them on the left
 
this means I will need to cut them off and somehow add them on the other side

The quarterdeck details, beams, carlings and  knees have been completed:
 

 
 
With that, we bid fare thee well to the stern and turn our attention to the long forgotten bow.
 
Before tearing into it, I've prepared the beams and knees to go under the forecastle deck.  These will be set as we install the bow details:
 

 

About time for an update.
 
After playing around with different configurations (wire, wood, rope), I finally decided on using the photoetched stanchions and some line for the companionway railings.  I'll use this throughout:
 

 
The photo also shows a glimpse of the second of the aft bulkheads and the permanently installed capstan and pawls.
 
The next 8 deck beams for the quarterdeck were also installed, including lodging and hanging knees:
 

 

 
Finally, just an overall shot:
 

 
There are several more decks beams to go in to finish the quarterdeck but first we need to prepare some deck fittings.