druxey

See the three 'pinned' tutorials at the top of this topic for a full discussion of planking.

Can you tell that I'm smiling seeing your photos again?

Many thanks for this terrific re-run of your log, Gary. It is an inspiration to all builders of accurately framed and detailed models on this site.

Interesting how Humbrol paint lasts, if the tin is sealed properly. I've had similar experiences with it. Once thoroughly stirred it still is as good as new, as you said.

Ah, the old isopropanol trick.... Works every time. And there seem to be a lot of times!

Sometimes line that is stiff or has 'memory' and loosens can be tamed with a wet brush. Try that on your clove hitches.

Lee Valley is a good tip for quality planes. However, I find a well-honed chisel, used bevel down, easier to use than a plane. It is especially useful where a mast or spar goes from round to octagonal or square. You can 'get into the corner' nicely with a chisel.

Neat method of doing this with power equipment.

Those scupper support timbers are better placed once the level of the deck is established, as Greg suggests.

Oh...my....  I really feel for you. I'm so sorry that you are back to Square One. Next round, if you still have a cat, may I suggest you either close the door or, if you don't have a separate workshop, clamp the building board down between sessions?

On the plus side, you will find that your work will go quicker and more accurately than the first time. Best wishes, Cap'n Rat Fink.

I suspect Anthony Anthony represents 1 and 2 as pendants and tackle for raising rigging to the lower tops. (The pendant portion is later termed a Burton pendant.) There was one on port and starboard side. Usually these were taken to the rails inboard of the shrouds of their respective mast.

The rather Rube-Goldberg style arrangement at 3 is interesting. Could it be a tackle to tension the fore topmast stay?

Very adroitly done, Mark!

I really like your artistry in softening the gold finish to your carvings and giving it a patinated look. Outstanding.

Grant's method works very well for avoiding that concave look!

That Pegasus figure was beautifully modelled, Doris. With a fully-round figure, would you make it in two halves, or model it completely in the round?

Good save, Ed. It's been my experience that problems of this nature always occur at the cant frames, not the square ones - of course!

I like your frame 'hold-down' device. Are the larger cross-pieces above and below the frame fixed or are they movable?

Coming along nicely, Mario. Looks like the real thing now!

Your mention of Munchausen's ducks made me smile. Nice examples of serving you have there as well.

It's better not to harden line (rope) if you are then going to spin it up into cable.

Nice to see the replay of your progress!

I assume that the extensions are there only for long pieces of stock, Gaetan? Nice microphotographs, too. Is there anything that you are not expert at?

Those really are lovely looking blocks, Remco.

The 'right answer' would take up several chapters of a book!

Probably the best short answer is to look a Ed T's build log of Naiad. You will see how complex this is. The only short answer is to the question of plank length. Standard lengths in the 18th century British yards were either 24' 0", 26' 0" or 28' 0". The butts were staggered or offset from the outside planking for maximum strength.

A proper 'hook' on the scraper's edge is critical to using this tool. I also file off the corners of my scrapers so that 'dig in' is avoided. Check the url that Richard has kindly provided.