druxey

Properly laid line, hardened, should not unravel when cut. The opposing torque in the strands/threads/rope should cancel each other out and provide a 'balanced' line.

The crossjack is indeed a yard, but one not set with a sail.

This is one you will need to chalk up to experience, I'm afraid. The upside of this will be that the re-do will be better than the original work - it always is! I had to remove some port lids today that were sub-standard. Revision happens to all of us!

Now that inclined plane for planing is a neat idea! Thanks for sharing the idea. That Nielsen plane looks like a nice bit of kit, too.

The scores on your whelps look great. Nice work - as usual, Mark.

I absolutely agree, Patrick!

And don't forget, these old-time model makers had no power saws, mills or other machine tools to produce these masterpieces!

Seeing your work again is a nice reminder of how high a standard you work to, Ed. You almost make that tricky stern framing look easy!

Looks like you are good and ready for action next weekend!

Gutermann cotton thread is a good possibility to consider, as quality linen thread becomes harder to find.

Beeswax has been identified as being slightly acidic, which is not good for the lines in the long run. Conservators' wax, which is pH neutral, might be a better choice.

Ron: to keep your chisels in top-notch shape, get the Lee Valley Stone Pond and sharpening guide with a couple of water stones. 

Good to see you back again, Sailcat. Thanks for re-posting your meticulous re-working of this model.

Good to see you and your fine work back on this forum!

Volume IV of The Fully Framed Model details all this for you, if you have a copy.

Allanyed's response is a good one. A very sharp pencil (hard lead is best) and accurate mark-out are the critical parts of the operation, as well as a sharp chisel. 

By the way 'scarph' is the correct spelling; 'scarf' is the thing you put around your neck to stay warm!

Thanks for coming back, Doris. Your paper/card models are amazing.

Well, you do have a strange idea of light entertainment, Michael! The extreme change in scale must be hard to wrap your head around. Both models are looking very nice indeed.

Nothing is silly when it comes to the complexities of wooden shipbuilding. The octagonal space is the 'unfinished' partner, as you've stated. The finished one is very like your mock-up with the wedges made circular. I think you have it!

That's an interesting degree of detail shown on your draught, Jim. Anchor chain, rather than cable?

My understanding is that the octagonal space was cut back after assembly to become circular. The space between the partners' hole and the mast was filled with segmental wedges that were driven in. Once driven, the protruding ends of the wedges were cut and smoothed, then covered with a canvas 'boot'.

I'm also enjoying this not-quite-instant replay!

Those port sills are more complex than British style ones. And how many do you have to make? That's an impressive amount of work you have to do.

I agree, Clay. There is always useful information to be gleaned from studying actual ships' draughts.

Those are awkward customers to deal with, for sure. The jig holder is a great idea. If you make register marks across the holder for the scores, that will align them all properly.

Nothing like re-living past near-diasters!