Erebus and Terror

Laying the Keel
 
In September, 1812, around the same time that Napoleon was entering a deserted Moscow on his push to the Kremlin, HMS Terror’s keel was being laid down in Topsham shipyard on the River Exe. Her keel construction exposes much about her design; it incorporated some traits of a merchant vessel of her size (ca. 325 tons), but was generally overbuilt to the standards of much larger ships. The Vesuvius class bomb ships were based on the lines of merchant vessels (Ware 1994:64), but with a much stronger frame to withstand the punishing recoil of the mortars. Sir Henry Peake, Terror’s designer, achieved this sturdiness by incorporating some aspects typically reserved for 36 gun frigates (ca. 1000 tons) and even 74 gun third rates (ca. 1500 tons).
 
Scantlings for Terror’s Keel:
 
Sided = 12 and 1/2 inches (consistent with merchant vessel of the same tonnage)
 
 
Depth of keel = 1 foot 3 inches (consistent with a small fifth rate frigate)
 
 
Number of pieces = 4 (consistent with merchant vessel of the same tonnage)
 
 
Scarphs in length = 4 feet (consistent with 36 gun frigate)
 
Scarph type = plain (with tables)
 
Lips of the scarphs = 3 inches (consistent with standards for a 12 ½ inch sided keel)
 
 
Bolts = 8 (consistent with 76 gun vessel, standard for bomb vessels)
 
 
Bolt diameters = 1 and 1/8 inches (consistent with 36 and 74 gun vessels, standard for bomb vessels)
 
Depth of False keel = 7 inches (thicker than a 74 gun vessel)
 
The keel of my Terror model is made from swiss pear, with black dyed paper vellum used to simulate the tarred flannel used to line the scarphs in a real vessel. I use acid and lignin free vellum which is both colour stable and dimensionally stable, and takes wood glue very well. As in many model ships, my scarphs aren’t tabled as they won’t be visible when glued.
 
References:
Ware, Chris.
1994    The Bomb Vessel: Shore Bombardment Ships of the Age of Sail. Naval Institute Press, Annapolis. 
 

Vertical keel scarphs prior to gluing.
 

Dry fit of keel scarph.
 

Vellum glued to scarph.
 

Trimmed vellum on horizontal scarph (stern).
 

Keel scarph with vellum.
 

Profile of scarph with vellum.
 

Gluing the keel sections.
 

Finished keel section.
 
 

I agree with Gary's assessment. Look at the rabbet as shown on the deck plan. It appears within the width of the stem, rather than at its aft edge. What is unusual is that the stem/apron joint line is shown as a dashed one on the sheer and profile. Usually joint lines are delineated as solid lines on these draughts. I think that is what threw us. I suppose it was the draftsman's way of demonstrating that the rabbet progressively moved forward of this joint as it moved up the stem.

Exceptional work as always, Mark.  Flawless.  I sometimes forget the 1/64 scale. At this smaller scale, perfect fit up is harder.  Well done.
 
The stern is certainly complex.  Wait till you get to the head rails and timbers.  I sometimes find it helpful to think of how the original was erected - one piece at a time, rather than with prefitted sub-assemblies.  Sometimes it is easier having a solidly anchored piece to fit to or measure from, but you seem to be doing just fine so I will just continue to watch. 
 
Ed

Ed; you wrote:
 
"I made the deck hook in two pieces to save on wood and was not too particular about the way the pieces are joined since this will all be covered by decking and the forecastle."
 
Your 'not too particular' is other folks' excellence! 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 90 – Main Deck Framing 1
 
Again, many thanks for all the nice comments and "likes."
 
In the first picture, the breast hook between the middle and main decks has been installed and the main deck hook is being fitted.  The main deck is the weather deck aft to the break at the beginning of the poop.  The forward section is covered by the forecastle.
 

 
I made the deck hook in two pieces to save on wood and was not too particular about the way the pieces are joined since this will all be covered by decking and the forecastle.  The side planking treenails in the picture have not been sanded off yet.
 
The first major task on the main deck framing was to make the beams.  The full set is shown in the next picture.
 

 
I have described the method for cutting out these rounded up beams in previous posts.  It is very fast and very accurate.  The set shown were made in less than two hours starting with a 2” thick block of Castelo.  The process, including tools and fixtures, was fully described in Naiad, Vol II.
 
In the next picture the beams have been cut to size, fitted and pinned in place.
 

 
Most of these beams are 15” wide except for those at the mast partners (17”) and those nears the ends (12”).  All are 12” deep.  On the original ship they were hard pine – as were all the beams and much else.  Frames were white oak and most of the knees and hooks white or live oak.
 
The next step was to mark the centerline on each beam.  The next picture shows the last and easiest step in the process that begins with a string line between pins on the stem and sternpost.
 

 
Although this process was done for every deck so far, I was a bit tense about the string line falling equidistant between the outside of the frames at each point.  It is getting a bit late in the day to fix any problems with this.  Misalignments would be very visible on this deck and could create a nightmare when the masts are installed.  The mast partners on the main deck must be plumb with the mast steps on the keel and also come through the center of the deck.  Fortunately, the centerline was well centered with only very minor remediation, so I am now in a more relaxed state.  After a substantial amount of checking, the pencil line drawn above was converted into a permanent scribed line on each beam. 
 
In the next picture the locations of all the carling and header scores are being marked out while the beams are still pinned in place. 
 

 
The distances were marked out from the centerline with dividers.  In the picture a piece of carling stock is being used to mark both sides of the scores.
 
In the next picture the setting of beams has begun at the bow.
 

 
The first very short beam will be secured only with lodging knees.  The hanging knees with their simulated bolts have been installed on the second beam.  The third beam has been glued and pinned to the clamps.
 
In the last picture the third beam - with its hanging knees and pillar - has been installed. 
 

 
The next beam has been glued to the clamps and frames.  All of the scores in the beams are cut at the bench by hand before the beams are set – from the marks made previously.  Carlings are installed progressively after the knees and pillar on each beam.
 
A period of repetitive work will follow.  Most of the time doing this is spent making the hanging knees and fitting them under the beams.  Fortunately, some preparation work in this framing for main deck facilities will break some of the routine.  So, three down, thirty-one to go.
 
Ed

A long overdue update....... I was too busy making decals and flags
 
I planked the port side from the Sheer strake up, this is all the planking I will do on this side except some minor parts I need for the rigging. Next up tree nailing the lot.... 
 

 

 

 
Also made new brass knobs on the clamps, as it turned out the wooden ones didn't hold up after I reenforced the bars with nuts.
 

 
Remco

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 89 – Middle Deck Hatches/Cabin Deck
 
The first picture shows some of the treenailing on the cabin deck.
 

 
These planks are 7” wide.  At this width the standard fastening spec was one per beam / ledge.  The treenails are about 1 ½” in diameter and are Castelo as mentioned in the last post.
 
The next picture shows a typical hatch being framed. 
 

 
At this scale and on this deck, simple lap joints are used.  The head ledges are on top to secure the coamings.  These will be bolted at the pin locations, in each corner and in the center of the beam.
 
The next picture shows a coaming completed and being glued down and one still being fabricated.
 

 
In the next picture the central planks are being installed between the openings for the hatches, masts and water tanks.
 

 
These planks are needed to support the pillars under the main deck.  As with the deck below, no further planking will be done on this deck.
 
The next picture shows some additional planks being installed on the cabin deck.
 

 
After having completed the drawing for arrangement of cabins, etc. on this deck the final amount of necessary planking can be set so those details can be constructed.  I don’t mind covering some of the structural detail in this area because some of it is based on assumptions and its authenticity cannot be verified.  The members – clamps, transoms - along the line of the main deck in this area will also be hidden by the cabins and related details as will the ends of the planking that are simply butted against the margin planks.  Cabin detail will be discussed later.
 
Ed

The Problem:
 
Anyone who has followed my HMS Terror scratch build may remember my issues with blackening brass fittings for the stern assembly. To briefly summarize, I immersed the parts in a standard 8:1 mixture of Blacken-It solution mixed with bottled water, waited until the parts turned the appropriate colour, then rinsed in bottled water to “neutralize” the reaction. I tried this several times on different parts and each time it resulted in a flaky, blotchy appearance that could not be made even despite buffing with a soft cloth.
 
 

Here is an image of my results. Note the blotchy and flaky texture.
 
Inspired by the fine results of other modellers on the boards, I resolved to master the “mysteries of the blue Liquid”.  I began with research; modelers, gunsmiths, jewellers, instrument makers, and mechanics all use various products and processes to chemically blacken metals and a great deal of information is available from forums, blogs, websites, magazines, and books.
 
With this knowledge at hand, I decided to conduct a series of trials to determine the best process for blackening metal using Blacken-it. I chose Blacken-it as it seems to be the most commonly used product on Model Ship World, and, perhaps more importantly, I had a supply available. However, the techniques I use here should be applicable to other metal blackening products.
 
Before I outline my tests I should begin with a note on safety:
 
The chemicals used in the blackening process are dangerous. Rubber gloves, safety goggles, and a well-ventilated room (or fume hood) must be used EVERY time you handle the chemicals.
 
The Process:
 
From my research, I learned that producing consistently good results requires seven steps, in this order:
1)      The surface of the metal should be mechanically prepared. This roughens the surface and removes synthetic coatings that are often used to give stock metal a shiny appearance.
2)      The surface of the metal should be treated with an acid pickle to remove any scale or corrosion.
3)      The metal should be cleaned with a solvent to remove organic contaminants such as oils, fingerprints, and other dirt.
4)      The metal is chemically coloured using a diluted blackening agent.
5)      The reaction should be “fixed” or halted, using a neutralizing solution.
6)      The surface of the metal should be buffed to remove excess blackening products and to polish the new surface.
7)      The metal should be coated in a protective agent to prevent corrosion, soiling, and damage (optional).
 
The Equipment:
 
My research indicates that the following chemicals most often produce consistent results:
1)      Muriatic acid (31.4%). This is commonly used to remove scale and corrosion on the surface of the metal.  Most hobbyists and professionals use 1:1 concentration of water and acid. Remember, you should always pour the acid into water, as it can be dangerous to pour water directly into acid. You can purchase muriatic acid in most hardware or pool supply stores.
 
2)      Deionized water. This tip was given to me by Druxy on these forums. I’m convinced that the blotchy, scaly results on my first use of Blacken-it were the result of my use of mineral-laiden bottled water. Dionized water is treated to remove mineral ions which could react with Blacken-it. Use the deionised water for all stages of the blackening process, including rinsing between baths, diluting chemicals, and for neutralization.
 
3)      Acetone (100%). This is a widely used degreasing agent employed to remove finger prints, oils, or other organic coatings which might contaminate the metal. It can be purchased at any hardware store.
 
4)      Baking soda. The final stage of the blackening process should include proper neutralization. A common solution is two table-spoons of baking soda in a cup (250 ml) of warm deionised water. Often, hobbyists will use running tap water to neutralize the reaction with good results; baking soda seems to be preferred by jewelers and instrument makers.
 

Here is a photo of the equipment I used in my tests.
 
The Tests:
 
My trials involved testing two variables: 1) the concentration of Blacken-It (undiluted, 1:1, 5:1, or 10:1), and 2) water neutralization versus baking soda neutralization.
 

The test parts prior to preparation.
 
Step 1: I thoroughly sanded the surface of my brass test parts with 400 grit sandpaper. This is similar to the preparation of any metal part even if it isn’t going to be painted or chemically coloured.
 
Step 2: I buffed the metal with ultrafine steel wool. Be certain to carefully remove any steel wool filings that remain as they can react with the chemicals used in the next stages.
 

The parts after mechanical preparation. 
 
Step 3: Immerse the part in muriatic acid (diluted 1:1 with deionised) water for 30 minutes. You can immerse the parts for longer, but the acid will eventually etch the surface and soften sharp edges and other details if you leave them in too long. You may notice that the pickle will change the colour of the brass or that some corrosion may appear – this is normal and is caused by impurities or inconsistencies in the metal.
 

 
Step 4: Rinse each part by agitating vigorously in a bath of deionized water for at least 10 seconds. Allow to dry thoroughly on a clean paper towel. Change the water in the bath for the next step.
 

 

Allow the parts to dry thoroughly.
 
Step 5: Immerse the parts in an acetone bath for 30 minutes.
 

 
Step 6: Rinse each part by agitating vigorously in a bath of deionized water for at least 10 seconds. Allow to dry thoroughly on a clean paper towel.
 

 

Allow the parts to dry thoroughly.
 
Step 7: Immerse the parts in the Blacken-it solution. Maximize the surface area of the part exposed to the chemical by placing it on end if you can. Gently, without scratching the surface, turn the part every few minutes to ensure all surfaces are exposed equally to the solution. Carefully monitor colour changes, and remove the part when the desired colour is achieved.
 

Different concentrations of Blacken-it. 
 

The parts after 30 seconds. 
 

After five minutes.
 

After 60 minutes (other parts removed when desired colour achieved). 
 
Step 8: Instantly dunk the part in the warm baking soda bath. Agitate vigorously for ten seconds. You will notice that the part will begin to corrode and a blotchy green or red film will cover the surface. Do not worry.
 

 

After a bath in the baking soda solution, the part will appear green (or sometimes red). 
 

Neutralizing with water leaves a cleaner surface (but caution is warranted, see below). 
 
Step 8: Carefully buff the part with a clean soft cloth (an old t-shirt works perfectly). Do not touch the part with your fingers. You will notice that the corrosion products resulting from the neutralizing bath will scrub away.  Buff until all portions of the part have an even colour; continue to buff if you want a shinier surface.
 

Buffing the parts fixed in the baking soda solution removes the green/red coating. 
 

After buffing, all the parts appear roughly similar in colour and finish from a distance (see below for differences). 
 
Step 9: Wait 24 hours to ensure the reaction was effectively neutralized. If “sweating” or pitting is noticed, the reaction was not properly neutralized, and a further rinse may be required. Usually the part can be salvaged by buffing with a soft cloth. Sometimes, it may need to be blackened again.
 
Step 10 (Optional): Spray the parts with a thin acrylic matte coating to protect the surface.
 

I use Krylon Matte Coat.
 
The Trial Results:
 
Undiluted Blacken-It solution:
 
The undiluted solution produced a very dark, but somewhat uneven black surface in about five minutes. Fixing the reaction with baking soda caused a significant amount of corrosion, but it was mostly removed by buffing. 
 

Undiluted immediately after buffing.
 
However, after 24 hours both parts began to sweat, indicating that the chemical reaction had not been neutralized even with a baking soda bath.  This is not unexpected, as the product guidelines indicate that the product is meant to be diluted.
 

Undiluted after 24 hours. 
 
Recommendation: Do not use undiluted solution.
 
1:1 Blacken-it Solution
 
This is the concentration recommended by the manufacturer. After ca. 10 minutes the part reached a deep black, but after neutralization with baking soda solution the surface appeared to be quite blotchy. After 24 hours the edges of the part began to sweat and corrode and the surface appeared pitted.
 

1:1 immediately after buffing. 
 

1:1 after 24 hours. 
 
The water neutralized part had a slightly more even surface, but unfortunately began to sweat after only 24 hours.
 

1:1 unfixed (water neutralization) after 24 hours.   
Recommendation: Do not use 1:1 solution.
 
5:1 Blacken-it Solution
 
The 5:1 solution required approximately 25 minutes to reach a deep black.  Immersion in the baking soda solution initially produced a green corrosion but buffing resulted in an even black surface. The part remained stable after 24 hours (and is still stable a week later).
 

5:1 immediately after buffing.
 
 
5:1 after 24 hours. 
 
The unfixed, water-neutralized part began to corrode at the edges after 24 hours.
 

5:1 unfixed immediately after buffing. 
 

5:1 unfixed after 24 hours. 
 
Recommendation: Works very well in conjunction with a baking soda rinse.
 
10:1 Blacken-it Solution
The 10:1 solution required approximately 60 minutes to reach a dark even black. Immersion in a baking soda rinse produced a slight corrosion, but buffing resulted in a very even and deep black surface (in my opinion better than the 5:1 concentration). The part has remained stable after a week.
 

10:1 immediately after buffing. 
 

10:1 after 24 hours. 
 
Similar results were achieved with the water-only neutralization, and the part remained stable after 24 hours. However, after ca. four days corrosion began to appear at the edges of the part.
 

10:1 unfixed after four days. 
 
Recommendation: The 10:1 solution performed very well in conjunction with a baking soda rinse, and in my opinion produced the best colour and surface.
 
Final thoughts:
 
1)      Fixing the parts by agitation in a warm baking soda bath appears to be a critical step in blackening brass, at least with Blacken-it. Even at lowest concentrations, and with a water-neutralizing rinse, the acidic reaction appeared to continue for some time, especially around edges and in nooks and crannies.  
 
2)      5:1 and 10:1 solutions appear to produce relatively similar results, even though they both require proper neutralization. The 10:1 solution appears to produce a slightly more even and deeper colour. Using Blacken-it at its recommended concentration is a waste of product and results in corrosion even after proper neutralization.
 
3)      Buffing is a critical step in achieving the proper surface appearance.
 
4)      I was able to rejuvenate “sweating” parts by dunking them in a baking soda solution and then buffing. Regardless, faint hints of the corrosion remained.

Yup, once you've spiled planking the proper way, you'll never go back to the frustration of trying to edge-bend, curve and twist a piece of wood again! Looking very good so far, Rusty.

Hi All,
 
When starting the planking I wondered about the waste, or maybe better put, the amount of wood needed
to plank the hull in this manner. I started with a 2" x 18" piece of wood and I was able to cut all the spilied
planks for both sides and still had wood left over. I was very pleased with this.
 
Now onto my impression of this style of planking a hull. In the words of my sweet granddaughter
.......OMG........ though time consuming it was soooooo much easier to lay the planks. No twisting and
bending and forcing them into place.
 
Here are pictures of both side rough sanded. Once the entire hull has been planked I will progressively
sand it down to 400 grit and then seal with wipe on poly.
 

 

 
On to the second belts!

..... continued.
 
To drill the holes at an angle in the Saddle I set it up in my mill vise :
 

 
The Saddle and Gammoning Cleats fitted :
 

 
The inboard end gets a "iron" band made from thin card :
 

 
The outboard end of the Jibboom has a shoulder cut into it and a tiny sheave :
 

 
Some views of the bowsprit assembled. As with the other masts nothing has been glued yet (apart from the fittings) :
 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 88 – Cabin Deck Framing/Planking
 
The cabin deck provided accommodation for senior officers and passengers.  In elevation, it was midway between the middle and poop decks – to provide increased headroom.  The deck occupies the area aft of frame 36.  It is just under 45’ in length on the centerline.  The first picture shows beams being fitted.
 

 
No details are known about the structure of the deck.  I have assumed scantlings equal to the main deck – beams 12” x 12”.  Also, since the structure is lighter and close to the deck below, I have omitted hanging knees.  The next picture shows all six beams installed and awaiting the lodging knees.
 

 
In the next picture, lodging knees, plain square pillars, carlings and ledges have been installed.
 

 
In the next picture 12” wide by 6” thick margin planks are being installed around the sides – again no details known, but a reasonable guess.
 

 
Because the main deck beam at frame 36 will be directly aligned with the beam for the cabin deck and because it is only a few feet above, the deck planking was installed next, while there was still access for drilling.  This work has begun in the next picture.
 

 
I use .021” diameter pins forced into tight holes to secure the planking for gluing.  The holes are then enlarged slightly for treenails.
 
I have yet to decide on the full extent of planking on this deck beyond the area of the cabins along the sides.  I expect to construct the partitions and built-in furniture for these.  More on this later.  The aft end of the main cabin between these rows of sleeping quarters will also likely be decked.  The next picture shows the completed planking in the cabin areas.
 

 
The planks are 3½” thick and 7” wide.  I did not take the trouble to cut these into the margin plank because bedsteads will cover the margin plank and the first few strakes of decking.  In the next picture, treenailing of decking on the port side has begun.
 
 
 
The first two rows have been nailed.  The third row has been drilled.  The treenails are 1½” (.021”) diameter Castello.  This has become the de facto standard size on the model.
 
Treenailing of the inboard side planking continues.
 
Ed

Hello,
  I will continue at the French corvette with the installation of the anchor supports on the larboard side. The anchor was initially placed only temporarily, to see if it fits.
Here I show you two photos:
 

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 87 – Middle Deck Inboard Planking continued
 
In the first picture the last strake of inboard planking on the port side is being installed – leaving the air strake above it.
 

 
Treenailing has begun on both sides.  The next picture shows some nails installed and holes drilled for the next group.
 

 
The treenails measure 1½” (.021”) in diameter and are drawn from long strips of Castelo.  The next picture shows the completed forward area above the middle deck.
 

 
The next picture shows a treenail strip being inserted into one of the aft deck beams – about to be clipped off.
 

 
The aft part of the middle deck is the first to be finished off so the beams of the cabin deck can be installed next.  The cabin deck is just a few feet above the middle deck.
 
 In the next picture the middle deck work in this area below the cabin deck is being given a coat of wax – below the clamps.
 

 
In the next picture the wax has sunk in and dried.
 

 
The aftermost cabin deck beam has been glued in.  The next picture shows another view of this.
 

 
The next step will be to fit the deck beams and their knees for the cabin deck framing.  Treenailing along the rest of the deck continues.
 
Ed
 

Hello,
thanks to all for the kind compliments !!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
E.  Quarterdeck
Construction end,
the forward gun ports were only as needed with 12-pdrs.cannons armed.
 
Karl
 
 
 
T e i l   53

Stunning, stunning, stunning.

Made me smile Ed,  wonder if it is some long lost relative?
 
Stunning workmanship as always Ed, I would agree about the use of card for the simulations of sheet steel. The shellac treatment really gives it a lot of strength, reminds me of the model books about building structures for model railways that I read as a kid.
 
Michael

Micheal,
 
If its a long lost relative, you might be a long lost heir to a ton of money.  The company was successful and had a huge business for more than a century.  They made everything from toilet fixtures to tanks to cast iron fencing starting in 1828,  They eventually moved to Trenton, NJ.  You can find their catalog on line.
 
I guess a lot of us have a bit of model railroading somewhere in our past.  I remember an article in the 1960's on using Strathmore paper to make all sorts of simulated iron structures, including trusses.  It was sold by ply then - 2 ply, 3 ply, etc. and by surface - high, medium, etc. I haven't seen those designations for years - but I still have my ponce wheel.
 
Ed

I've card maquettes of Bristol Board and illustration board that are still fine after decades. They were assembled using white glue, sprayed with grey automotive primer and then painted with acrylics. I think that, as Ed points out, excluding air and direct light helps longevity.

E&T,
 
I look forward to seeing your results.  File folders are not what they used to be - probably now made from recycle.  I probably should have used Bristol or something harder, but I believe the shellac soaking will protect it well - and as I said it is buried in the depths where it is difficult to see and out of harms way.   I started using card many, many years ago on model railroad structures.  Those that have survived in my basement still look good.  Best of all, its easy to use.
 
Ed

The anchor is finished except for the varnish or oil finish.

...

Thanks for the comments and likes. They do keep my nose to the grindstone. Work on the "tween decks" planking is going very fast. Maybe its the learning curve, but it does get easier at the top.
 
Revier, Ihave not seen you on the forum for awhile.
 
Ed

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 86 – Middle Deck Inboard Planking
 
Heavy members – standing strakes – 10” thick by 12” deep are fitted over the waterways and bolted through every frame timber to further reinforce the connection of the deck structure to the frames.  These members are joined along their length by hook scarphs as shown in the first photo.
 

 
These members were also bolted down into the waterways but I omitted these bolts because they will be covered by the next higher planks. 
 
In the next picture some of those planks are being installed and holes are being drilled for the standing strake bolts.
 

 
Note that the top strake being installed is notched for a drop plank to account for the widening planking band where the hull flares out at the bow.  The next picture shows a higher strake being glued in – wedged down to close the joint.
 

 
Standing strake bolts have been installed in this picture.  In the next picture, the next section of that plank is being glued – wedged and clamped in this case.
 

 
I did not bother to jog the planking joints in this work, because hanging knees will hide this detail.  Long planking strips were used and their joints placed under a knee location.
 
The next picture shows the completed planking – except for treenails – at the starboard bow.
 

 
The gap above the top plank is an “air strake” – left open to ventilate the space between frames above the keel.
 
The next picture shows the larger of the two fresh water tanks ready to be rigged into the opening in the decks.
 

 
In the next picture the tank is placed temporarily in position.  The top of this tank will be just below the main deck planking.  A smaller tank located just forward of this one has yet to be fabricated.
 

 
I did not go overboard in making these tanks.  They will be difficult to see at best.  I used the wood blocks shown earlier, some file folder and a ponce wheel for the rivets.  After assembly the paper was impregnated with dilute shellac and finished with flat black enamel.
 
The detail of the actual tanks, like many other things, is a bit of a mystery.  Webb’s Challenge had rectangular iron tanks so I followed that design.  I based the design for these on pictures from the JL Mott catalog from 1886.  Mott was the foremost New York ironmonger from 1828, making a large range of iron goods well into the 20th Century – a likely source for these tanks.  The catalog featured cast and wrought iron sectional tanks.  It is likely that these large tanks would have been of the wrought iron type – probably lead lined.  They were built up to the required size in formed modules.  The top and bottom manways are speculative.  No nozzles yet.
 
 
 
Ed

Thank you Mark, Michael and Kevin .
 
Bowsprit
 
The Bowsprit is tapered like the lower masts, that is it narrows inboard from the Knightheads. It has a tapered tenon which fits into the step in the support in the forecastle :
 

 
The forward end has two flat sections for the Bees. These sections are offset from each other :
 

 
Some views showing the bowsprit fitted into the step :
 

 

 

 
  Danny