BLACK VIKING

Karl,
 
Thanks for confirming this. Much appreciated - como siempre...
 
Played around with the jpg in iPhoto and yes that opening in the mast is very clearly evident, along with a sheave.
 
Charter33 (Graham) thank you for your nice words, and welcome aboard. I'm glad that we found each other's logs (:-)
 

almost finished
 

 

 
only a mast and sails to make

During the last weeks continued with the long boat, changed the seatings and made a mast  
   
 
   
 
 
 
after the painting I will add some ropes and sails.  
 
   
 
Due to our planned move in February I will till that time, during the weekly meetings with our model club, do some preparations for the rigging.  

Here is my hull almost completed. 
As you can see, I have a bit more finishing work. I gave her one coat of tung oil and some imperfections came out and some residual glue spots, but I think I can fix all of that.
 

The 2nd layer is supposed to be .5X3mm walnut. The 1st planking was 4X1 mm walnut. Why waste Walnut on a 1st planking? I dunno. I'm not sure of much with this model and it's English as a 5th language.

Karl,
 
Thanks again! yes I think that this would be the easiest to do
I will add two blocks below the fore and main upper platforms, then just drill a hole near the tops of the fore and main upper masts.
There should be a sheave also inserted - don't think so - already too much to think about. - All of this rigging is very new to me, especially if I add sails. I am, however enjoying the learning--AND the help
 
Muy amable de tu parte para ayudar de nuevo (:-)
 
PS: Going to Colombia in a couple of weeks need to practice my Spanish 
 
Cheers
 

 

EJ,
 
Yes, many (some) of us probably rig 16th and 17th century ships with some "ball park" guesses; nature of the hobby given that it was not until later that builders used master plan sheets that survive today as references. I'm thinking of the HMS Victory et, al--
 
Anderson is certainly our best "bible" his work certainly is based on as accurate as possible historical notations. That said I would think it nearly visually impossible to "eyeball" a completed three mast model ship and determine if lines are connected to wrong pins one-way-or-another (well for me anyway (:-) )
 
For now I'm much more comfortable with wood and paint than with rigging - maybe after this learning curve it will become easier for the two or so waiting under the table. One of which will involve copper plates - can't wait to learn how to do that correctly ha has.
 
As usual thanks for your kind words and following along...
 
Cheers

Wow stunning work Michael the attention to detail is brilliant
 
BV

Wow stunning work Michael the attention to detail is brilliant
 
BV

FIRST PLANKING.

After finishing some other projects I finally managed to get back to brig Mercury . 

Update - chainplates are now installed. I substituted the lower links from the kit with smaller links because the kit links(on the left in the first picture)had holes that I thought were way too big & out of scale. I used a string & some stub masts to set the angles of the chainplates. Unfortunately,the chains were supposed to reach the middle wale but due to my error in positioning the wale too low they don`t quite reach. To make them long enough to reach the wale,they would be way too long.
 

 

 

 

 
Mark

Ahoy Mates
 
Since I am now sensitive to CA-it causes me to have symtoms like I have hay fever,I also just use CA to stiffen the ends of thread and with material that PVA can not hold. It was a great change in my building quality of the rigging and how the thread looks after it has been glued. I also use flat varnish to hold knots.
 
I use transparent Titebond and Titebond II. The transparent Titebond has a more flexible when it hardens,and is almost clear.
 
Then only problem I have is with black thread and how the silvering shows if you do not water  it down enough. It causes holding problems since there is not the same thick glue to start with. Sometimes I just use the regular thick glue and then touch up the silvered area with flat black ink or paint,and then cover with flat varnish.
 
But it always beats the problems with brittle,stiff and glass like surfaces that CA can create on the thread and where you use it. With the PVA,it still shrinks down into the thread when it dries,which CA doesn't.
 
It doesn't harden as fast as CA,so you do not build as fast,but that's a great thing since you end up looking and thinking about what you are doing and have done. Remeber you are doing this for enjoyment not a speed building race.
 
Just try doing the same knots and rigging with CA and then PVA and really look at the end results. You decide- it's your build and you are the one who knows which one you like best. And PVA is easier to debond with just rubbing alcohol . 
 
 
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year form Pickels and Keith

The flu has left the house here as well. if only the teenagers could do the same!!!
 
Sjors: Was your bamboo also 2x5mm?

Those planks look a lot better. Hope you get over the flu quickly and looking forward to seeing your your next update
 
Happy Christmas BV

Those planks look a lot better. Hope you get over the flu quickly and looking forward to seeing your your next update
 
Happy Christmas BV

... then it comes the interior :
 
let's start with the planking ... Do the planking until we reach the bilge keelson... Then we install the bilge keelson to the both sides :

Thank you for the nice comments. 
 
After all the ribs were glued to the floor, the next step was to sand back the edge of the floor to make it even with the ribs. This took a long time. After that I sanded the stern floor at a 45 degree angle to match the stern. Then we sanded the bow support into a V shape and glued that to the floor as well.
 
We are now ready to build the sides!
 
Andrew.

Hi Mates,
 
Thanks for the likes, and thank you LMDAVE29 for being kind enough to want to follow along. Welcome aboard this very slow build…
 
Evolution of Corel Vasa galleries (Evolution because this area is now part of three years of on-and-off intermittent changes, and additions – finally - Done)
 
As it turns out got “side-tracked” again trying to add further details to the kit’s galleries (to be a bit more representative of the actual ship) after looking at the 1/10th TOO many times, and feeling bouts of frustration. So as I was (moving forward) attaching the mizzen shrouds, it mentally clicked that I could “play” with the galleries again just a bit more.
 
First, if you don’t mind, some changing looks of these for me “troubling galleries”; then the final finish.
 
First pic is out-of-the-box kit build per Corel’s official photo.
 
The next two are from a brilliant example of a right out of the box Euro commercial builder’s work. And he added sails J  - Posted only for comparisons to the kit provided bits…. Kudos to this builder’s excellent work.
 
 

 
What Corel supplied in the kit for, and my earliest attempt at adding initial extra details to the galleries (decided to initially scratch built in any case)
 
 

 
Early attempt at painting the very poorly represented guilded figures that Corel supplies in this kit.
 

 
That just did not suit - IMHO. So tried to instead “antique” paint the figures, and then also added a basswood border relief along the lower platforms of both galleries.
Though I am very happy with the many other guilded pieces that Corel included, and enjoyed painting those as they appear today.  
 
 

 
Added the circular opening in the forward bobbinets along with a basic wood trim ring. At that point I left this area alone thinking that I was done.
 

Revisited the area by adding painted white extra vertical bits, and those green decorative pieces on the bobbinets (sourced from a necklace at Michael’s art Supplies)
 

Added small basswood lower horizontal trim pieces as well to the lower bobbinets. And removed their forward wood rings adding decorative guilded pieces instead– same as those provided in the kit for weather deck cannon openings
 
(PS: Corel has ALWAYS been very kind in sending me any requested extra parts)
 
 

 
That was when I thought that I was (again) done “obsessing” over this area. Then another thought crossed my mind; decided to use anchor chain links, kit included lion heads and cannon door hinges to finally finish off this area’s detailing.
 
I kept referring back to photos of the 1/10th gallery details for help  --
 

 
So final solution –
Painted the chain link centers with green paint as well as the canon door hinge centers. Then added the two lion heads per side.
 
some pics of the finished efforts – I WILL leave this area alone now – I promised myself- Though the very last pic  - Still makes me nervous – ha ha
 
Cheers,
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I went through the planking material and decided that most of it can be used by facing the bad cutting inwards... 
 
Because of horrible teenagers and a deadly manflu it took some time to post the update. 
 
There wasn't much to build this time but here it is:
 
The reinforcements from the frames to the "well" should be at a 90 degree angle. but even if the frames are positioned by slots in all the reinforcements they where still off. I knocked the worst of them loose and glued them so that mostly they where at an angle.
 

 
Fitting the second "well":

 

 
This is how she looks now from above:

 
And front:

 
 
Now on to painting the decorations....
 
I'll be back!
 

FOREMAST MAIN STAY AND PREVENTER STAY
 
I served .045 rope for the main and .035 rope for the preventer stays.
 
I then measured them for length, and clamped in a closed heart.  I purchased 7mm closed hearts from Chuck and Syren. Great product again. After some assembly, I gave them a coat of cherry stain and finished with tung oil.
 
I was able to position my portable vice with a spring clamp close enough to insert the heart for lashing. The heavy served stay ropes were pretty stiff, so the whipping was a bit challenging. I weaved a section of .018 tan rope for the lanyard.
 
Once done, I threaded the lanyard and tied it off on the upper lashing of the heart. It turned out pretty good.

Have done some work on the foremast trees, shrouds etc, and was able to dryfit the top mast. I also have fitted a toprope although not shown in the AL plans. Not sure if this correct. Having fun...slow progress.

Hi Mr Pucko the good thing with Deag is they supply a lot more wood than you need. Having built three of their kits I have lots left over
 
BV

Hi Mr Pucko the good thing with Deag is they supply a lot more wood than you need. Having built three of their kits I have lots left over
 
BV

Hi Mr Pucko the good thing with Deag is they supply a lot more wood than you need. Having built three of their kits I have lots left over
 
BV