BLACK VIKING

The main topsail was the last sail to mount. As most of the sails, I had inserted copper wires to give the sail curves, to simulate wind. Without the sheet lines to the yard below, the curvature is actually too much. Attaching to the yards results in a nice wind-like appearance. The sheet lines, from the topsail through the violin block to below had to have a lot of tension to bent the sails close to the yard.
With the topsail installed, I could also fixate the lower yard and then hoist the bunt lines and clue lines to have the main sail semi-folded. My attempt was to simulate the Vasa Museum 1:10 model, but my sails are of too thick and stiff fabric to have the sail hang like that. But I am happy with the result anyway.
Meanwhile also installed the bowlines of the main mast sails and also the sheet lines of the lower sails.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shops main gun 

I have an update for the bomber.....really not much left to add to her now.  all of the glass has been framed out.....even the top turret glass which had no frame to speak of...no detail.  so I gave it some,  added the guns and cemented it in place.  the rest of the glass,  with the exception of the waist gunner's glass has bee added,  along with the gear wheels.

 

 

the tail gunner's glass didn't have framing either...that was also ad-libed.

 

 

since the model is a tail dragger,  I will make a base for it.  it might wait though till I can get some decals for her.  until then   

EJ, Kirill and Dan - thank you very much!
 
Well, it has been a slow and painstaking process, with much re-touching, but the lower stern is finally painted:


From here on out, the paintwork should not be so challenging.
 
Thank you for stopping by!

A model of Averof was in my mind for some time, but the resin kit from YS was really expensive. I dont have much experience with scratchbuilding, only kitbashing, so I decided that the best course of action was a small waterline diorama in a familiar scale. So 1/700 it is! I'll propably add photo etched railings so that will help. But needless to say the ship comes up quite small.  All this because the Royal Louis kit is really tiring me out...
 
The diorama will show Averof in Faliro as she is today. 
 
So, materials are foamcore, cardpaper, superglue balsa and melted spruce. 
I went for a simple bread and butter method (the ship is tiny) It will require a lot of filling and sanding though
 
First steps

And here we go again. 
 
Short positional test of the guns in interaction with the capstan.
 
Guns run out ...
 

 
... stowed ...
 

 
... cleared out of the radius of the capstan bars.
 

 
The next stages of construction will require the missing deck beams. Here is the status. The missing beams give a spaciousness and light that never existed.
 

 
Beams pre-bent in a template. Supports prepared. Yes, you might be amazed, actually these are parts of the kit 😉
 

 
Because of the main mast, no deck beam can be set at this point. Therefor, two strong carling bridge the gap and also give guidance to the mast. But alas, there's my double-deck pump in the way. This mystery, the haunting specter of all plans between 1790 and 1860.***
 
*** 
 
 
 
Either the mast does not fit through ...
 

 
... or they are too far apart.
 

 
A quick look at the model of the Princess Royal reveals that the pump cases are built around the carlings, so one inner tube lies to the left and one to the right of the carling. 
 

 
So pump torn out, a through hole was dug into the case, carling fitted.
 

 
A cotton pad was put as dirt trap underneath and the groove for the carling was carved.
 

 
And done.
 

 
XXXDAn

Hi all,
I went up with the bulwark and removed the portion of the strakes that was not glued to reveal the opening between the strakes of the bulwark:
 

 
Then, I lined the inner wall with walnut strips:
 

 
I think the result is not too bad. At this point, before starting with the second planking, I need to finish the transom, because I want that the planking of the hull covers the thickness of the planking strips of the tramsom. I gave the final shaping of the dead wood of the hull and traced the lines for the planking:
 

 
I chosed to lay down the planking with an angle of 30 deg which is easily found with my drawing triangles and resembles what seen on my reference books for the ships of that period. After gluing the stern post, I started gluing the strips:
 

 
Here with the lids of stern chaser cannons provisionally in place:
 

 
I need now to complete the glazing of the windows, which is something that I delayed until now, because I need to find out a good method to replicate the lead framing. That's all for now, any comment or suggestion is welcome.
Best regards,
Dan.
 

The bowsprit gammoning is next. 8 runs of loops, over the bowsprit, passed down to the knee of the head, through the gammoning hole, and up again to the bowsprit... The last run was passed over the bowsprit to the middle of the gammoning, taken around the gammoning and made fast..
 

 

 

 

 


Bowsprit manropes have been installed as well..
 

 

 

 

 


Happy modelling..

Work on the decorations continues with the outside of the taffrail arch completed. Next up will be work on the frieze. Slowly the stern decorations are coming together. 

Kirill4: Thanks so much for your images, very informative and helpful – very kind. I do have the Anderson book, indeed excellent. Yes all mast yard hails will use the same methods. Thanks again for your excellent comments.
 
Minor update – still waiting for bits from Cornwall – not their fault; international flights, USPS mail,  both almost out of business…..🙁
 
So in the meantime worked on the capstan, bilge pumps, and main deck gratings; the Sergal provided pumps and capstan were actually quite good.
Added some details but all in all fairly satisfied with these bits. The gratings Sergal provided (laser etched) I did not plan on using, much the same with all the decks. But for these bits the Sergal instructions were very useful. Here are some images. 
 
Regards,
 

I never thought I'd see Lily James look frumpy.
 

Small update.
Installing the mastfeet (mastfoot)

I first had the idea to replace some of the bolts of the mast feet with eye bolts. But later decided not to do this, just bolts.
The fore and bowsprit foot was a bit complicated, and i needed three parts for this.

Mizzen mast

Main mast, with pumps installed

Fore mast and bowsprit (pumps are not glued here)

Thanks for following
 

Before I introduce this product, I would like to show you a cheat sheet for better and cheaper building slip solutions. 😉
 
http://www.hobbyworld-usa.com/Store/index.php?id_product=2074&controller=product&search_query=hobbyzone&results=64
(Soldout)
 
http://www.hobbyworld-usa.com/Store/index.php?id_product=9610&controller=product&search_query=hobbyzone&results=64
(Small size, but in stock)
 
I bought this Ukraine building berth due to out of stock last December.
 
 
 
 
Sarcasm warning!
 

 
I was surprised when I received a package. This building berth covers up to 850mm, but the package size is only 600 x 300mm, and its weight is 2~3 pounds...
 

 
Compact package with bubble cap.
 

 
LMG!
 

 
Only one paper. 
 

 
Not user friendly, hard to notice each parts. Spent several hours to assemble.

 
This is a bonus item. However, as you know, this is really not useful item and I already have it.
 

 
Carefully cut the inner corner.
 

Forget the bolts and nuts.
 

This is a proper bolts and nuts for upper and under holes. You can't use other bolt because this kit has no excess bolts.


 
The center bolt holds pencil, but it is inconvenience.
 

 
I modified the pencil holder using my bolt and nut.
 
By the way, should I use this waterline marker? No. I have much better marker with angle change function. Also, its smell is really bad. I'll paint it with shellac. Even if I didn't have any waterline marker, I would have paid $1 for this one or made my own marker.
 
 

 
Let's start to make a building berth. As I said, this kit's package is smaller than an assembled item. This kind of structure is not reliable.
 
As you see the picture, an actual part and manual picture are different. It happened again and again.
 

 
Here is another different point.
 

 
I crossed 3:2 strips to get structural strength.
 

 
Found the first critical error.
 

 
Fixed.
 

 
Glued.
 

 
It looks good, but it's not flat. This berth is easily twistable. If you want flat surface, you should place an inch thick MDF panel under this berth.
 

 
I'm showing you an assembly knowhow a manual never say.
 

 
A keel holder is done.
 

 
I checked the ruler's accuracy. Both center and sides are very good as laser engraver usually does.
 

 
This is also very tricky part. The manual is very confusing.
 

 
Why they didn't make same 6 long rails?
 

 
The manual doesn't show these details.
 

 
The height of an axis is about 100mm.
 

 
I'm not sure this is correct, but it is the best way to clear exceed parts.
 

 
This is a hidden part.   How may minutes I spent to understand this part?
 

 
Sub arms.
 

 
It's done.
 
Surprisingly, surprisingly, it works. Unbelievable!
 

 
Each part works as planned.  
 

 
Let's try it.
 

 
Uh-oh....
 
 

 
😨
 

 
The arms are too short! And its thickness is more narrow than my ship's keel! The building berth's plywood has 1.4 inches thickness. (3.60mm) It can't hold my ship's keel that has 8.00mm thickness. 
 
It is not a bad end. I can make my own arm and change the bolt and nuts to fit my ship. Also, I'll fix and add some features to catch my fancy. Most of all, I'll paint it with shellac it at first because of strong smell causing headaches.
 
However, I never recommend this kit to anyone. I spent hours to assemble with unfriendly manual. Also, I could have bought the Hobbyzone's building slip at same price if a seller had stock. Please consider this post as a case of failure.

 
remaining parts.
 

Ending Mizain mast's parrel :
 

 

 

 

Thanks gentlemen 🙂.
It's ready for painting the camo now all the bits are fitted, although I do have to fashion a headlight as one shot off into the abyss of dropped parts 😒
Thanks for the likes and comments. 
Cheers 

I remember landing at RAF Alconbury, back in 75-76 and chatting with some spotters. They gave me a rundown of every paint scheme/marking/basing summary of the F-4E I had just arrived in. Talk about enthusiasts. We were on our way to Huntington station for the train to London town. 👍

Yep we are  a nutty breed  - mine extends to logging serials/registrations, and under lining them in cross reference books both mil and civil, I have a system now of trying to get a photo of every aircraft I see  (especially  those civial airliners flying over on airways).
 
Its a cool hobby.
 
OC.

Wow thank you for the brilliant photos of your grandad . It's amazing that he was just up the road from where I live and 35 missions.  I take my hat of to legends like your grandad.  The model is now at the Rougham Tower Museum near Bury St Edmunds, well worth a visit if you're in the area. 
Thanks again 
Martyn 

Hi all and thanks for the comments and likes  
A bit more done the wings and tail fins have been fitted and the fuselage glue together.
I have dry brushed the whole aircraft to give it a worn look.
 I have found out that she was hit by flack and number 2 engine caught fire but was put out quite quickly. It was replaced and a new cowl fitted but wasn't painted for a few weeks so I have shown this.
Just a little bit more to do then she will be complete.
Thanks for following 
Martyn

The kit decal sheet comes with the green color accents similar as seen in this photo, which differs from the photo in the previous photo (none). It might be that certain year models had color accents that were not applied to later or subsequent year models. Don't know for sure. I am not a Kawasaki expert at all. Builder's choice? I like the green accents. Breaks it up a bit. The side panel on the fairing seems to be a lighter shade of metallic gray, maybe silver. Decisions, decisions. 
 

today was a good example of how bright it is in the spare room.   it snowed last night and I got in from snow blow'in....kinda nice since we haven't really gotten too much snow this year.  after a while....and a cup of coffee.....the sun came out and I got to work.  first thing was to dry brush some aluminum on the engines.......little heavy on the dry brush,  but with the cowls on,  they don't look too bad.

the cheek guns were next to go on.....

 

when the cowls dried a bit,  the wings were added to the plane.

 

 

good shot of the nose guns......  stepped out for a bit from here......it was getting dark when I got back to her.  I decided to do a few decals.

 

 

the rest of the evening will be devoted to glass frames.

the props and side windows are about all that's left to paint now.......time to start assembling the plane.   the nose section is finished,  complete with the guns...I wish I had a better shot.   later pictures are a bit better.

I was going to add the control sticks next,  but somehow I got side tracked.  I should have added the hatches in the opened position,  but I decided to have them closed....and they were terrible to fit.  I closed up the fuselage.............forgot to add the control sticks!    perhaps I can still do it.........

I also cemented the bombs on the racks.   after I joined the fuselage........I began to hear a rattle.   the inner bomb had broke loose and is runn'in amok in there.  I might try and fix it.......I mean,  it's like I'm not going to be shaking it like a maraca.  to think it over,  the landing gears were added to the wings.

here's a better shot of the nose......I added it to the plane

I could still add the control sticks.......happy times  

 

the tires are painted now.......and the tail gunner glass is finished too.


the stabilizer / rudder ensemble is added to the plane......the glass will be added when dry

the cockpit glass is done too.......came out pretty good.

 

more assembly to follow  

in a blurry photo..........it shows that the inner walls of the fuselage has been painted.   I used the Chromate green,  used in the Memphis Belle project,  but I greened it up a bit more.

 

the narcelles were assembled.....since the majority of the plane will be done in the Navy Blue,  they will be assembled along with the wings.  there is a bit of hind sight here......if the landing gears are in the down position,  the gear doors should be in the open position.  with this model,  the two main door are closed.........strange and a cause for thought.

 

 

 
the tail section was assembled as well........

 
the cockpit and bomb bay sections were painted in the chromate green...

More progress on the road being made for me  - its looking Superb  -
 
OC.

Evening/morning all,   I have a bit more progress  - I  have ordered my display case  it will take about a month to be made  (cant wait)   also I have ordered some made to measure  dirt road scenery  resplendent with cart ruts,   also I have been  having another bash in Paint  ot show where I will be cutting back on the rear part of the farm  - just showing the rear part as a Two dimensional  aspect  (I will include the stables roofs but they will be Two dimensional also  not sloped)  - 
 
OC.