CaptainSteve

Hey anyone,
 
Since I finished my Revell 1:96 Plastic Constitution in the spring, I've been wanting to get into wood modeling.  As I've only been a plastic modeler to date, I was a bit apprehensive as it feels like a whole new skill set (which I don't have).  I've done nothing with wood, other than trim a few tree branches along the way.
 
So, with that in mind, my first wood ship was the Midwest Peterboro canoe (at 1:12).  It took maybe 6 weeks to do (I never seem to do any of this fast), and here's the result:
 


 
Next up, I needed more experience.  I have a Syren kit "on deck", but don't feel ready to tackle that yet.  I felt a cross section would be a good next step up in complexity, as it involves some planking, some deck furniture, some masting, etc.  A little bit of everything and with a ship I know pretty well from the Revell model.
 
So, taking advantage of a nice sale by ModelExpo, I purchased the Mamoli USS Constitution Cross Section at 1:93, so very close in scale to my full ship plastic build.
 
I'll detail the build step by step and stick to the instructions as best I can.  I'll also be using some fine builds here on MSW to guide my progress.  Suggestions and criticism welcome - I'm a wood novice so I'm especially interested in tips, tricks, best practices, painting suggestions, etc.
 
Thanks for looking.
 
Andy.
 
 

Thanks Adam.
 
  Cut, shaped, and painted the starboard side channels.  Pinned and glued into place.  Port pieces are sitting on deck waiting to be worked. 
 
  It's amazing how much dust the macro setting on the camera picks up.
 
                Bob R.

Thanks for all the comments and likes, everyone!

Anyway, I did some work on the carpenter's chest. I modelled it in the open position. I took inspiration from Cap'n Rat Fink's chest here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/849-hms-bounty-launch-by-teleman-116-bashed-completed/?p=12090 (copied the hollow lid idea), as well as Meredith's hinges here: http://modelshipworld.com/index.php?/topic/2160-hms-bounty-launch-by-meredith-modelshipways/?p=143922
 
At the time I was wondering whether I could make metalwork as fine as hers, but as it turns out ... I can't. Try as I might, I am not able to make two "F" shapes in the supplied brass strip, so I made an "I" and a "C" instead. Still, I think the result looks OK. 
 
Here are some pictures for your viewing pleasure or amusement. Probably the latter
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For some reason I cannot get 'Bentnick' out of my mind.
This guy, John Bentnick, was a clever officer in the British Navy and apparently invented several useful additions to the ships on which he served.
Here is what my thoughts are about his idea about adding this shroud that, otherwise, seems to cross the ship in an unusual fashion.
This is a picture of my build, but notice the crossing line
 
Most pictures I have seen show how the upper shrouds (from the topmast) go down to the futtock shrouds, which are then either tied to the main shrouds or go across to the opposite side where they are tied to those main shrouds. What that means is that all the forces imposed on the upper shrouds are transferred to the main shrouds.
Assuming that the main shrouds are loaded to the maximum allowable, this extra force is not what is wanted. I can see in reality that the stresses would be more than normal, be it on one side or the other.
 
What Bentnick's shrouds do is to isolate the upper shroud forces (stress-strain, call it what you want) and transfer them to the bottom or main part of the hull.
Clever, I think.
 
Later there will be another line coming across from the right to make an 'X'.

Back to the ratlines.
 
I finished the fore mast rats but did not include the extra staves Henry referred to. They might come later, but already I am getting dizzy with too many lines. Port is my 'bad side' and I hope that the starboard ratlines will come out as bad as shown below.

The starboard shrouds are still dangling aft waiting to find a home. I will hold off with those until the topsails are rigged. The reason is that since I decided to have the Connie on a starboard tack and since the sails and spars are pointing in that direction, there is no room on port side but plenty on the starboard side to work the ratlines. Having a clear view and access without the shrouds has been helpful to me. Again my idea of working from the inside out.
 
After this come more ratlines for the main. RATS!!!
And then I hope to get back to rigging more sails.
 
BTW if anyone is interested in doing ratlines with thread-and-needle, like I do, here is a suggestion.
Thread all ratlines but leave both ends loose. I leave about an inch or two at both ends. Periodically I snug up on those ends to see if all is going ok. The thread should go through the shrouds nicely for adjustments.
BUT I DON'T GLUE THEM IN PLACE UNTIL THEY ARE ALL THREADED.
 
Then I glue the ends on one side with a touch of CA (using a toothpick), let it set and do the same on the other side (while tugging here and there) making sure the shrouds are aligned the way I see them best.
Since I sew through all of the shrouds, I check and align the inside shrouds and touch some here and there to make sure they stay that way.
The last thing I do is to trim the 'loose ends' of the ratlines.

You're crowning glory, Danny.
 
John

Thanks John, Christian, Ben, Adam and Nils .
 
I've finished fitting the Channels, Standards and Drift Rails to the Port side :
 

 

 
Quarter Badge Crown
 
I've also carved the Crown for the Upper Finishing on the Quarter Badge. It's certainly not up to the standard of some of the great carvers on this site, but I'm happy enough with it. Here are some pics from the rough-cut blank to the finished article. I used English Box - it took me about 3 hours work. It measures 6mm wide by 4mm high :
 

 

 

 

 

 
  Danny

Just now I´ve almost finished my main sail and it´s rigging. Had a lot more job than the fore and remade some things more than one time. Now I´ll take a break for my eyes are tired and began to lose patience. Here are some photos.
 

 

 

 

 

 
Mizzen is already waiting for her rigging. If you wonder why the sail is stained, well, I did it on purpose. If the ship has traveled the Atlantic lining the African coast, it´s more than logical that some dirty would be there, with gulls and other birds flyng and landing around...

Scott, have been hard to hold my hands off the other kits. As I wait to finish my caravel, it´s almost impossible not to dream with the next builds. But, one step at a time. Won´t get ahead of me. Breath, Vivian, breath and patience!!!

Jerome (well, ppl call you crackers, but since I called u from the first time by your city, I´ll keep doing that ) - I´ll keep the photos coming, well, at least when I go outside to buy more string. Just ended those who came with the kit yesterday. Ty!
 
Nigel, I´m hooked as a fish in there!! When I get to my ship its the best moment I have. Thanks ^^
 
Sam, I´ll read it carefully, since my experience with circular saws are from my time in university, some 10 years ago. I want to have all my fingers on till the day I die, lol. As for my build, I´m already studying the Red Dragon. One change I´ll do is about the doors and windows on deck, cause I want to have a cabin of sorts, furnitured and all (as chinese as my research can lead me) and the doors and windows need to let light on it - The door will be a chalenge at this scale, since I want it to be left open - and that´s all Doris´ fault, cause now I need to have cabins and furniture in my ships

Vivian, getting caught up here. WOW! I am with the others, great job. I REALLY like the "on deck" pictures. I see those pictures on other builds and think I need to buy a little point and shoot, my SLR is just to big and clunky to get those kind of shots. 
 
May I put my vote in for the Red Dragon as your next build also? A unique build for a unique builder.
 
When you get your saw, before you use it there is a topic in the tools forum on saw safety, if you have never used a circular saw before, may I strongly nudge you to read that post? You have talented fingers and none of us want to hear about you doing the "Owie Dance!"
 
Sam

Now, for my sails. Have begun on fore mast but should be going for the main mast. Well, at least I did not put the mizzen and the fore mast before the main...
 
Fist 4 pics are from early stages, the rest from the sail rigged and ready.
 

 

 

 

 
 
 

 

 

 

Now, I´ll try my patiance:
 

 
(How can I wait to begin???)

You could put a crew aboard and make them look frightened, that would give it that Atlantic look. Leave your shrouds alone unless you can get under that deck without damage and spread them out so there is room for the dead-eyes to lay flat. Looks fine for an early build and the next time you will be thinking about the placement of the lower ends. Keep up the good work.
jud

Hey, Ulises, don´t make me full o´ myself! I´m a student on a teachers´ room, just learning - and they´r so great in teaching!!! Thanks!!!
 
Bug, that´s true. Even if didn´t matter, I would never look at her without that feeling I did something unworthy of her.
 
Canadian Sailor - Yep. I can see it and think if not for pride, at least for practice for the sailors, as doing it right should mean something regarding skills or following one´s orders.
 
Casey, I´ll bring them back aligned, that´s the right thing to do.
 
Ty, guys. I asked it as someone really interested in knowing how a ship works - Can´t think on things only for aesthetics. As I said before, I want to bring a "live" model. To have that feeling that it sailed on the Atlantic, venturing down the african coast, facing new worlds and braving an unknown ocean.

And now, my latest progress. Before that, a phantasmagoric view of my ship at night!
 

 
Well, the work on deadeys began with rope and learning, for I had to consult some tips on the subject. I´ve waxed my ropes so they could look worn out, like the rest of the ship

 
It took me some time till I got it and could do that rolling up the rope look what it should look.

 
After that was a matter of repeating the process through the deck till all deadeys were in place.

 
And, that´s the rigging? Step by step my advance on the first pair holding the main mast.
1.

 
2.

 
3.

 
Last one showing how it came out. Have to say I´m very happy looking at it - it´s the first pair of a set of 8 and took a lot of time from me.
 
I´m happy too cause my first new ship is waiting for me at my local post office and, aside a problem with taxes, I´m as a little girl waiting for a puppy. lol

Hola Raymond! Every time I got to my ship is a passionate thing and I can see myself on my 80´s still there, woods and tools and love to bring these beauties to the world =D. Have 3 more ships coming and can´t barely wait (thoughts of going after them pollute my mind...).

Been making some of the fittings. The kit supplies photo etched harpoons & lances. Also copper wire to solder them to.
 
Does anyone here know any household liquids to blacken em with ?
 

 
The oars are simpler to make. I used poplar from H. Depot.
 

 
Now the compass was furnished with the kit but not the C. rose. I hope my home made rose doesn't get the boat steerer lost.
 
Still a way to go.
 
S.os

I got all the thwarts installed. I also took the liberty to depart from the plans furnished in the kit.
With the C.W. Morgan undergoing major repairs there are many independent boat builders  furnishing new whale boats for the bark. Like many boats the whale boat isn't a "cookie cutter" craft.
 
With this in mind and using one of the whale boat sites ( Beetle)a building on the internet I decided to use a different version of the steering oar brace. It looked more substantial then the one shown on the Erik Ronnberg pattern. One problem I had was the size to make it. After making two of different sizes I settled on the one shown in the images.
 
Also in the kit is no provision for a mast and spar rest after the sail gear is lowered. This U shaped chock is located on the stern just to the stb. side of the loggerhead.
 

 

 

 

 
Most of the boat itself is finished. Now all I have to do is construct , improvise and install all the various whale hunting craft. A kit in it self.
 
S.os
 
 

This weekend, I hit the model with some paint. I was very hesitant as I wasn't sure just what scheme course to take. The thwarts are just temporary as before . I still have to make the thwart knees and rudder hardware as well as the brackets that hold on the steering oar and numerous other details just to the hull alone not mention all the gear carried aboard these unique craft. I intend to weather the model some and an attempt is made with some rust stains on the fwd.Stb. bow.
 

 

 

 
Any weathering tips would be appreciated.
 
Thanks
 
S.os
 

Lieutenant. 
 
My kit did not contain plans for the crane but the book was most helpful. I don't intend to make a crane but will carve, steal or otherwise acquire a scaled cat stalking a rat which will also be in the finished model.
 
For me a fun way for an observer to get an idea of scale.
 
S.os

I started this model about three weeks ago. So far not many problems as the book provided with the kit was very helpful. I'm ready to paint and have applied a sanding sealer. I'd like to know if acrylics are OK to use for the model.
 
Here is what it looks like so far:
 

 
Thanks for any info.
 
S.os

ROUND TOOTHPICKS (AGAIN): To simulate treenails.
1- Cut a bunch (big bunch) of round toothpicks in half.
2- Drill the hole  in your deck or hull of the desired size.
3- Dip one point of one of your half toothpicks in full strength wood glue.
4.- Stick it in the hole and let dry.
5- Cut using a toe nail clipper or similar utensil. A nail clipper is better because it has a straight edge and both edges come to close at 
the same level. Unlike scissors which overlap the cutting edges and put more tension on the object being cut. This 'may' tear the toothpick out of place.
6- Sand until flush.
7- Apply your favorite finish.
Sometimes is better if the treenails do not stand out too much, so I prefer not to stain the toothpicks. When you apply your finish, the treenails and the surrounded wood, being different, will assimilate the finish differently and provide a nice smooth contrast.

I tapered the stem and sternpost, and finally started glueing the bulkheads!
 
Here's the first one. One small step for mankind, one giant leap for ship builder.

 
Three already...
 

 
And four...
 

 

 
Those damn bulkheads has a predilection to go awry after glueing. Permanent struts are great idea to keep everything straight.
 

 
Now I have already six bulkheads glued. They're pretty much straight and OK from deck and underside. Instead of that extensions for bulwarks are not in line, but need to see later what can I do with them. Also bulkhead G has 1mm extra in right side, which needs to be removed. I'm focusing to keep the deck lines and lower hull lines in balance, and everything else comes after that.
 
I also spent some money today. Ordered some Dremel tools. I will show them when they arrive.
 
Markku

I'm back from my trip, so I have continued some work with this boat. Over the weekend, I completed the standing rigging.
 
I have seized shrouds many times in the past, but I have never been satisfied with the results. This is the theory:
 

 
So how do you do that in miniature scale on a ship model? The answer is to use crocodile clips, like this:
 

 

 
If you can't see what's happening, I have created a series of diagrams that show how the seizing is accomplished. The text and pictures are self-explanatory.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
This is the result:
 

 
I also added an eye bolt for the mainmast stay. Mackay's plans indicate that this was present, but did not indicate where it was attached - so I took a guess.
 

 
The boat as of tonight:
 

 

 
Next I should tackle the spars and sails, but I am thinking of buying a cheap sewing machine to help me make the sails. The sails are therefore on hold until I do a bit of research and learn how to sew on spare cloth. Neither can I attempt making the oars, because I want to reserve that for when my new lathe arrives. I suppose i'll just make the toolbox and a few other little accessories while I wait.
 
It also appears that I have run out of rigging thread. Let's hope that my local hobby shop stocks the same thread used by Model Shipways.