.jpg.f26acc9a74319261612561bfa7da1303.jpg)
vaddoc
-
Posts
1,521 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Reputation Activity
-
.thumb.jpg.6fd4c1b78768bb3efd745ab810936005.jpg)
vaddoc reacted to Mirabell61 in ELBE 1 1948 by Mirabell61 - scale 1:87 - Lightship
Update
all portholes with glassings, all doors with doorknobs and wall boxes for rolled up fire hoses are mounted to the deck housing
Nils
-
vaddoc reacted to Mirabell61 in ELBE 1 1948 by Mirabell61 - scale 1:87 - Lightship
Update
made the removeable deck-house together with hand rails and lightshafts with seatight hinged covers. After primering painting the deckhouse portholes were inserted. Also the aft bulkhead was fitted out with two doors and portholes therein .... Slowly its getting shape
Nils
the making of the deckhouse
the handrails are from brass wire. There are 5 screws that position and hold down the deckhouse to the deck
Dechhouse with portholes
there are 10 lightshafts around the deckhouse, The doors will be next
-
vaddoc reacted to Mirabell61 in ELBE 1 1948 by Mirabell61 - scale 1:87 - Lightship
Update
made the updated forecastle bulkhead and support for the front mast, also the seawater tight access doors. The mushroom-anchor chain end will be connected to the ringspring buffer element on deck
Nils
-
vaddoc reacted to Mirabell61 in ELBE 1 1948 by Mirabell61 - scale 1:87 - Lightship
Update
Yesterday I finaly got the lettering done and positioned as intended. This morning I placed all the portholes (painted in hull color, and now all is prepared fore doing the porthole-glassing. The upper row of the forecastle is glassed already. I use 3mm OD silicone transparent cord for the glassing, glue the bits in with CA and cut off from outside square to the porthole face
Nils
the lettering at the stern (aft) is made from 5mm high white adhesive stickers
-
vaddoc reacted to Mirabell61 in ELBE 1 1948 by Mirabell61 - scale 1:87 - Lightship
Thanks for your idea Veszett, I`ll keep that in mind .....
meanwhile I finished the semi gloss black part, nice clean paint borderline ( credit to Tamiya masking tape ), and removed the propeller before doing the paint job
Nils
-
vaddoc reacted to Mirabell61 in ELBE 1 1948 by Mirabell61 - scale 1:87 - Lightship
Thank you very much Lefebvre, John and Richard,
Lefebvre,
yes, its a pitty that this happened, but that paint does not allow reasonable corrections after this happened during spraying. I already tried my best to mend it.
John,
I think I`ll leave it as is, because heavy paint corrections will make things worse. I`ll take it as a rough touch with the kay wall in the harbor longer ago
Richard,
now the time has come to start with the decals for ELBE 1
I did the masking off for the sub waterline black coating, and fitted the ships name and homeport with small 5mm high white sticker letters, that I had already bought earlier for this purpose. It worked well, and I had left the space on the hull rounding there without "rivets"
Many, many thanks to you again for your kind help in encouraging me to do my own decals. I have received white decal paper for inc-jet printing, but am still eagerly waiting for the decal softener to arrive
Nils
the ship`s name is "Bürgermeister Oswald" and the homeport is the town Cuxhaven at the mouth of the Elbe river
to date I hve had good results with Tamiya masking tape
The painted bow-sprit bumpkin in place
both waist railings are fitted
both the stb. side hall-anchor and the mushroom-anchor are fitted
-
vaddoc reacted to Mirabell61 in ELBE 1 1948 by Mirabell61 - scale 1:87 - Lightship
Update
except for the black underwater coating I´ve got the paint on. I think that I will never again apply this bright red signal coating. Once a mistake is made ( I sprayed over several tmes) it ca`nt be corrected propperly. Unfortunately I did not see that the paint started running on the far side. I did`nt hesitate to carefully wipe off the concerned area with a soft cloth, but the red paint had also solved the underneath primer. Now there are some ugly patches on the stb. side. Hopefully I`ll get that mended a bit later on, if not it will conncidered as wear effect, with other paints on other models I never ran into such trouble with the paint coat before, and I was so pleased that before that all had worked out well so far.
Nils
Port view and front view is all OK
here the ugly patches (aft stb. and stb. mid side )
-
vaddoc reacted to Mirabell61 in ELBE 1 1948 by Mirabell61 - scale 1:87 - Lightship
Update
the upper forecastle portholes are mounted after plating this area, and the Stb waist reling is dry fitted. Also the area for the sprit bumpkin and its fastening eyebolts and stays.
Aft deck the template for the breakwater is being estimated for fit. I am eager to get all the hull-related plating complete in order to continue with the painting job and the ELBE 1 name decals.
For making the decals I got a great support from another MSW fellow builder. Here credit and thanks go to "Retired Guy", Richard for all his help. That gave me confidence to try and make my own decals instead of using larger sticker letters ( problems with the structured hull surface )
Nils
The Railing is from Aronaut- Modellbau in brass and nickel plated. the wooden fastening rail underneath is to get the correct hight
the aft breakwater will be mounted in this area. The blank space in the plating ( aft round between the rails ) will take up the 5mm small sticker-letters for the name "Bürgermeister Oswald" and the homeport "Cuxhaven" after painting.
-
vaddoc reacted to Mirabell61 in ELBE 1 1948 by Mirabell61 - scale 1:87 - Lightship
Update
yesterday I made the fastening (still removable) of the stb side anchor. Because when the forecastle-deck is on, there will be no more access to the fastening line (no visable chain here), and the line is running in a curved thin copper tube, leading the line to midship area where the end will be fastend using a spring to the frame somewhere. That gives a little springload to the line and keeps the anchor well in contact with the achor fairlead.
Also in accordance with the plan drawing, a rather short bumpkin with fastening points, a handrail on top and an eyebolt to the ships stern frontside was made. Also a non spanable metal bupkin stay
Nils
here the anchor line, and the eyebolt (upper right side) for the waterstay
copper lad-tube for the line
the line goes to the mid ship for fastening with a spring. The plate with the 13mm boring will adjust the lighttower later on. The deck is in 4mm wide pine-strips and black pencil "caulking" at the plank contact lines
waterstay with fastening points and topside handrail
side anchor when pulled up and waterstay in dryfit
-
vaddoc reacted to Mirabell61 in ELBE 1 1948 by Mirabell61 - scale 1:87 - Lightship
Thank you very much Keith,
I`m moving on with the plating, its almost completed ...
Nils
-
vaddoc reacted to Mirabell61 in ELBE 1 1948 by Mirabell61 - scale 1:87 - Lightship
Hi and thank you Gary,
many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.
Here for example, I started with the plating today.
New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal
The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.
The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results
Nils
starting with the trick part
in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.
a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on
10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on
-
-
vaddoc got a reaction from Maxthebuilder in here I am
Welcome Max! The "bad result" bit made me smile. Nothing some filler cannot fix!
-
vaddoc got a reaction from Keith Black in here I am
Welcome Max! The "bad result" bit made me smile. Nothing some filler cannot fix!
-
vaddoc got a reaction from Scottish Guy in A question about glue.
I think Jaager's post summarises things well, although I use epoxy a lot for laminating wood. For this task contact cement does not look too appropriate. For wood-wood you can't really go wrong with PVA. Yellow (aliphatic) PVA has very short opening time, white gives you more time to adjust the pieces. However, if you coat a large surface of thin wood with PVA it will absorb the moisture and buckle (does not happen that much with plywood). To avoid this you can wet the opposite surface.
-
vaddoc got a reaction from Canute in A question about glue.
I think Jaager's post summarises things well, although I use epoxy a lot for laminating wood. For this task contact cement does not look too appropriate. For wood-wood you can't really go wrong with PVA. Yellow (aliphatic) PVA has very short opening time, white gives you more time to adjust the pieces. However, if you coat a large surface of thin wood with PVA it will absorb the moisture and buckle (does not happen that much with plywood). To avoid this you can wet the opposite surface.
-
vaddoc got a reaction from Egilman in Keeping my head in the game.....
Very nice EG. Now, this is a beefy speedometer mechanism!
-
vaddoc got a reaction from Jack12477 in Keeping my head in the game.....
Very nice EG. Now, this is a beefy speedometer mechanism!
-
vaddoc reacted to Egilman in Keeping my head in the game.....
Short update...
Front Axle... (not complete just a progress update)
And an overall shot....
Working out the spindle pivot tubes now....
Onwards...
-
vaddoc reacted to Egilman in Keeping my head in the game.....
Another short update....
Lower Rear Springs....
It was interesting and a lot easier than doing the uppers....
An overall look, Full Frame...
Now I have to go back to the Front Springs and adjust a few details, I found a better way of doing them on the rear springs....
Anyway, next up will be an axle, not sure whether front or rear yet....
Onwards...
-
vaddoc reacted to Egilman in Keeping my head in the game.....
Well the Upper Rear Springs are done....
And the bottom side...
And an overall view....
Now I have to repeat this but upside down to complete the lower half....
Onwards....
-
vaddoc reacted to Egilman in Keeping my head in the game.....
Well another update...
Rear Springs, I was hoping that I would be able to use the springs I had already made to build the second version... Unfortunately no That wasn't going to work so I've set about building a whole new set of Rear Springs.....
And in measuring it against the detailed photos I now have I found that I also needed to rework the Bracket as well to more accurately reflect it's true position on the car... 3/4ths inch closer to the rear and up at the turn of the curve on the frame rail...
Then I added in the old springs and the ends sat way to low, so I was forced to completely rebuild the springs reflecting the correct measured position on the car... The curve is now accurate, 40" long by 2" wide with a 3" drop at each end...
I've included two pics showing the current iteration colored in the cars natural yellow color....
And one of the spring itself showing the upper mainspring and first leaf...
and it's one solid piece as well....
Next posting when the spring itself is finished...
Onwards.....
-
vaddoc reacted to Egilman in Keeping my head in the game.....
Update;
Well starting off the rear springs, First we need the mounting plate....
The spring lays across the top and is bolted through the bottom on all four corners.... It also pivots on the shaft of the Mounting Bracket...
Here it is attached to it's bracket....
And in it position in the frame....
Next up, the upper rear spring itself.....
Onwards...
-
vaddoc reacted to Egilman in Keeping my head in the game.....
Another Update, I know it's been a while, but this part took a bit of time to re-design....
Front Springs...
And the bottoms....
All correctly laid out...
They might look a little weird when compared to normal leaf springs, this is because they are asymmetric leaf springs... Asymmetric means that one end is longer than the other...
This particular set of springs were 2" x 35" with a 15" forward axle mounting point leaving 20" behind the axle.... They have been through 8 iterations before I could finally get them to configure into a solid block and still look like the real thing...
An overall view...
They do look good if I do say so myself... {chuckle}
Anyways, I'll be taking a few days to do some RL stuff before starting on the rear springs... (shouldn't be too bad as I now know how to do them)
That's all for now, Onwards.....
-
vaddoc got a reaction from Canute in Keeping my head in the game.....
Now, this is impressive. Its one thing to design a hull on CAD, but these complex shapes like brake handle and gear selector or the gearbox, this is on another level!
Hope all go well with your health.
Vaddoc
Our Emblem ®
