vaddoc

Update
 
yesterday I made the fastening (still removable) of the stb side anchor. Because when the forecastle-deck is on, there will be no more access to the fastening line (no visable chain here), and the line is running in a curved thin copper tube, leading the line to midship area where the end will be fastend using a spring  to the frame somewhere. That gives a little springload to the line and keeps the anchor well in contact with the achor fairlead.
Also in accordance with the plan drawing, a rather short bumpkin with fastening points, a handrail on top and an eyebolt to the ships stern frontside was made. Also a non spanable metal bupkin stay
 
Nils

here the anchor line, and the eyebolt (upper right side) for the waterstay

copper lad-tube for the line

the line goes to the mid ship for fastening with a spring. The plate with the 13mm boring will adjust the lighttower later on. The deck is in 4mm wide pine-strips and black pencil "caulking" at the plank contact lines

waterstay with fastening points and topside  handrail

side anchor when pulled up and waterstay in dryfit
 
 
 

Thank you very much Keith,
I`m moving on with the plating, its almost completed ...
 
Nils

 
 

Hi and thank you Gary,
many of the sequences have been performed with my previos models before, so I don`t have to spend too much time and headachs in thinking of how I shall do it.
Here for example, I started with the plating today.
New this time is the use of 10 mm wide Tamiya masking tape as a space holder, as I`m plating in "Belts" and need the better steady horizontal line for optical appeal 
The plates are cut from a self adhesive aluminium foil roll with a table paper guilutine. Poncing is done with a suitable double tooth wheel ( clock cock wheels) to the back of the protection paper before removing it.
The foil thickness (without glue film) is 0,125 mm for best results
 
Nils

starting with the trick part

in Basic the plates are 15 x 50 mm, The rows, apart by 10mm, and then a cover plating "belt" over the 10 mm wide horizontal gap. The platings are stagered to the next line above.
 
 

a nice smooth hull surface provides a good ground for plating on
 

10 mm Tamiya distance holder, removed again before the covering, overlapping "belt is put on

Welcome Max! The "bad result" bit made me smile. Nothing some filler cannot fix!

Welcome Max! The "bad result" bit made me smile. Nothing some filler cannot fix!

Welcome Max! The "bad result" bit made me smile. Nothing some filler cannot fix!

I think Jaager's post summarises things well, although I use epoxy a lot for laminating wood. For this task contact cement does not look too appropriate. For wood-wood you can't really go wrong with PVA. Yellow (aliphatic) PVA has very short opening time, white gives you more time to adjust the pieces. However, if you coat a large surface of thin wood with PVA it will absorb the moisture and buckle (does not happen that much with plywood). To avoid this you can wet the opposite surface.

I think Jaager's post summarises things well, although I use epoxy a lot for laminating wood. For this task contact cement does not look too appropriate. For wood-wood you can't really go wrong with PVA. Yellow (aliphatic) PVA has very short opening time, white gives you more time to adjust the pieces. However, if you coat a large surface of thin wood with PVA it will absorb the moisture and buckle (does not happen that much with plywood). To avoid this you can wet the opposite surface.

Very nice EG. Now, this is a beefy speedometer mechanism!

Very nice EG. Now, this is a beefy speedometer mechanism!

Short update...
 
Front Axle... (not complete just a progress update)
 

And an overall shot....

Working out the spindle pivot tubes now....
 
Onwards...
 

Another short update....
 
Lower Rear Springs....
 

It was interesting and a lot easier than doing the uppers....
 
An overall look, Full Frame...

Now I have to go back to the Front Springs and adjust a few details, I found a better way of doing them on the rear springs....
 
Anyway, next up will be an axle, not sure whether front or rear yet....
 
Onwards...

Well the Upper Rear Springs are done.... 
 

And the bottom side...

And an overall view....

Now I have to repeat this but upside down to complete the lower half....
 
Onwards....

Well another update...
Rear Springs, I was hoping that I would be able to use the springs I had already made to build the second version... Unfortunately no That wasn't going to work so I've set about building a whole new set of Rear Springs.....
 



And in measuring it against the detailed photos I now have I found that I also needed to rework the Bracket as well to more accurately reflect it's true position on the car... 3/4ths inch closer to the rear and up at the turn of the curve on the frame rail...  
Then I added in the old springs and the ends sat way to low, so I was forced to completely rebuild the springs reflecting the correct measured position on the car... The curve is now accurate, 40" long by 2" wide with a 3" drop at each end... 
I've included two pics showing the current iteration colored in the cars natural yellow color....

And one of the spring itself showing the upper mainspring and first leaf...

and it's one solid piece as well....
Next posting when the spring itself is finished...
 
Onwards.....

Update;
 
Well starting off the rear springs, First we need the mounting plate....

The spring lays across the top and is bolted through the bottom on all four corners.... It also pivots on the shaft of the Mounting Bracket...
 
Here it is attached to it's bracket....

And in it position in the frame....

Next up, the upper rear spring itself.....
 
Onwards...
 

Another Update, I know it's been a while, but this part took a bit of time to re-design....
 
Front Springs...
 

And the bottoms....

All correctly laid out...
 
They might look a little weird when compared to normal leaf springs, this is because they are asymmetric leaf springs... Asymmetric means that one end is longer than the other...
 
This particular set of springs were 2" x 35" with a 15" forward axle mounting point leaving 20" behind the axle.... They have been through 8 iterations before I could finally get them to configure into a solid block and still look like the real thing...
 
An overall view...
 

They do look good if I do say so myself... {chuckle}
 
Anyways, I'll be taking a few days to do some RL stuff before starting on the rear springs... (shouldn't be too bad as I now know how to do them)
 
That's all for now, Onwards.....

Now, this is impressive. Its one thing to design a hull on CAD, but these complex shapes like brake handle and gear selector or the gearbox, this is on another level! 
Hope all go well with your health.
 
Vaddoc
 

@allanyed This is it pretty much Allan. Actually the hole left when the screw is removed is smaller and can even be filled with a smaller 0.7 mm wood nail dipped in PVA (or copper or brass wire dipped in CA which is a much faster process). 

In my experience, there is a world of difference between cheap and higher end CA glue.
An issue to consider with any glue is the degree of contact between the mating surfaces. PVA needs excellent contact and pressure, not always possible with planks. CA just a bit of contact as it is incredibly strong. Thickened epoxy will bridge any gap but is very messy. Expanding glues like the amber Gorilla one are even messier. I would not trust contact cement for this task. Hide glue I have no experience with.
If I was gluing planks to frames I d probably go for CA. Have debonder at hand though to detach your finger from your eyelid!

I use 1 mm screws which I then replace with wooden nails. In the past I ve used brass wire dipped in CA glue. All planks in all of my models are fastened this way - no plank is glued.
Once I thought of threading brass wire and using it without glue but the amount of work needed would be far too huge.

What a nice subject Nils and truly enjoyable to follow, although your pace is lightning fast! Never heard of a mushroom anchor.

And building a simple boat first and progressively taking on more complex projects allows one to gradually buy the truckloads of necessary and "nice to have" stuff without the admiral realising the cost. Also, one can gradually expand and occupy space in the house that otherwise would be point blank denied.

As long as it is under the Admiral's radar, it is ok. And as per you logo:
“Τα πάντα ρει, μηδέποτε κατά τ’αυτό μένειν“
Everything is in motion, alas also money.

So the paint has settled further and it actually looks pretty good! Especially the red and Turquoise are really nice. Some photos bellow in natural light. The hull of course is rough despite so many cycles of filling and sanding. Never use Beech!




But look what the postman dropped, all the way from the colonies across the pond!

Till next time
Vaddoc

Dear Friends
 
Another quick update to share some photos!
Mark, it is Valejo matt acrylic paint, it is just that the photo was taken immediately after the coat went on so still wet.
 
@64Pacific Thanks Scott, welcome!
 
@KeithAug Keith, I do not think Humbrol enamels will be arround for long so if you use enamels, stock up. I bought some of the enamel varnish.
 
So I carried on with painting. The white paint has exceptionally poor coverage. I must have put on 15 coats, not with the greatest of care I must admit. But it came out alright - modern paints are so forgiving. I am not sure what the shiny areas are but it does not matter, these should disappear after varnishing.
 
I then masked again and added the red waterline. The red color has much better coverage


I could have sanded the paint but I decided not to bother. Also, I should have first painted the red zone, mask and then paint over. I did not really pay much attention but in the end it came out fine, I just had to mask and remask again and again.
 
Then, I added the turquoise - very nice color, excellent coverage. I was more careful this time and came out much better.

 



There is a masking line that shows, I masked without thinking. I could have sanded it off but did not bother, it actually looks ok.
I will now give it a couple more days for the paint to cure and then I will protect the paint with enamel Humbrol varnish. I am dissapointed with the water based ones - Poor adhesion and not as hard.
 
So next I started work on the rudder. In the plans it is only 1.5 inch thick - that is 4 mm in the model. So I made a card template and cut three pieces to laminate

Waiting for epoxy to cure - then the rudder will be painted in same colors.
 
Take care all
Vaddoc