rlb

Thanks Ben, and all, for comments and likes!
 
Here is the stem, sitting in place--
 

 
 
The three stem pieces are glued, but not the boxing joint.
 
I've been shaping the two apron pieces.  Here is the lower apron sitting in place--
 

 
 
And the upper apron added--
 

 
 
The stem and apron pieces are held together here just by finger pressure--
 

 
 
I'm reading between TFFM, the Naiad book, and of course, the Euryalus book, for fabrication techniques and instructions, and importantly, the order to proceed.  They all are a little different from each other in that respect (that, or my reading comprehension is very poor).  I.E. when to glue certain joints, when to taper the keel and stem, when to cut the keel and stem rabbets, etc.   I'm delaying gluing any of the stem for now, and planning whether this is also the best time to cut and shape the bow pieces.  
 
Ron 
 

I came downstairs this morning, and the sunlight was peeping through a curtained window--
 

 
 
I had placed the Scale Captain there last night!
 
Ron

I have spent a lot of time on the boxing joint.  It is dry fit here.  The stem is now centered side-to-side, and reaches the forward point as it should--
 
 
 
 
A close-up shows that there is some final tidying up of the upper curve to do, as it reaches the aft end of the joint--
 

 
 
Here it is after that final shaping has been done--
 

 

 
 
There are still many pieces to be shaped and fit before the boxing joint can be glued.  The next piece will be the tricky lower apron, and here it is roughly cut out, and and held in place against the stem and keel to test its initial fit--
 

 
 
I  have also marked and drilled the holes for the keel scarf bolts, and lightly marked the rabbet line--
 

 
 
Ron

Ha! Well done, druxey!  I'm going to send all my photos to you for editing!
 
Ron

I've worked on the stem scarfs.  
 
Here are the three stem pieces test fit together against the drawing--
 
 
 
 
And a look at the joints--
 

 
 
These are just being test fit, and the shadow on the first (upper) joint is due to the upper stem piece being wider than the rest, to allow for the stem taper.
 
In this photo, the scarf between the lower and middle stem has been glued, and paper shims are being used to (hopefully) maintain the alignment as the scarf between the middle and upper stem is glued--
 
 
 
 
Now I can test fit the stem to the boxing joint and get a rough look at what needs to be refined.  There is a lean to starboard that will need to be corrected as the joint is made--
 

 
 

 
 
I have to say, that tree trunk is distracting!!
 
 
Ron

Thanks, druxey.  The bar is high, and I am trying!
 
The false keel is glued, one piece at a time.  I am using pigmented glue in the joints, and the first few times were a mess, but I am getting better at judging how much glue needs to be used, and how to keep it relatively clean. --
 

 

 
 
The final false keel piece glued.--
 

 
 
The basic keel assembly is glued.  It hasn't been tapered yet at the bow or stern, nor scarf bolts installed, or rabbet cut.  I have cut out the stem and apron pieces, and am getting ready to cut the stern deadwood.--
 

 
 
The boxing joint is done, I mistakenly didn't angle it as the scarfs are, but as it won't be seen, that's okay.--
 

 
 
Ron

Rick, generally, counting the chocks, either 9 or 11 pieces.  They form a pair together, though they need to be built and installed separately.
 
Allan, the sawdust and chips are pretty well relegated to the workshop (at least so far), but the exercise point is well taken!
 
After dry fitting, and adjusting each scarf to make sure the overall length is correct, I have glued the keel pieces together except for the formost.  Still working on the boxing joint and scarf for that one.   The keel height dimension (is that the sided or molded dimension?--I should know that) has been sanded to the final 15".  The width is still 16-17".   The false keel pieces have been cut out and dry fit.  They will be glued one at a time to the keel.--
 

 

 

 
 
Both the foremost keel piece and false keel piece are being left a little long until final shaping of the boxing joint and scarf, then they will be trimmed to length and glued.  Then the assembled keel width will be sanded to the final 15" dimension.
 
Sorry for the poor photos-a mixture of poor light, and different color light sources causing white balance issues.  
 
Ron

Thanks, Ed.  I will continue work on Oneida.  It would be unacceptable to abandon her at this point!  
 
I plan to use Swiss Pear for the framing.  The stock I have is a light shade--not as dark as most I see.  Hopefully this will not cause problems down the road (when I run out and have to restock).  Castello Boxwood for hull planking and carvings, and maybe Holly for deck planking.  I'm not sure, will have to see how it looks.  Black will be "ebonized" pear, as I did on Oneida.  I'm very happy with the way that looks.
 
Still using hand tools, though I have also become a Byrne's customer!
 
Right now this is taking shape in my living room.  This is one advantage to being single!--
 

 

 
 
I don't have a place for it in my regular workshop.  I'm running up and down the stairs (my workshop is upstairs) constantly.  Eventually I'm going to have to fit it in my workshop somehow.   Ah, that's why I should finish Oneida sooner rather than later.
 
I have the gantry mostly complete, have installed a sternpost support, have trued two more of the keel scarfs, and worked on the boxing joint a bit.--
 

 
 
The last three keel pieces lie true, and you can see I have work to do on the forward two scarfs.--
 

 
 
Ron

Work continues--
 
I have fastened the layout plan to the baseboard, though I had some issues when I sprayed a matte protective finish over it.  The protective spray seemed to weaken the spray adhesive underneath, and in the high humidity of recent days I have some bubbles in some areas.   I don't think it is a problem, but I am considering taking the plan off, re-copying it on heavier paper, and trying again.
 
I built two clamp squares (a sliding gantry will also be built), and cut out the 6 keel pieces.  They are slightly oversized—especially the foremost which will receive the boxing joint. The keel alignment pieces are adjustable and can be snugged up when the keel is finished to its final width--
 
 
 
 
I cut the keel scarf edges with a razor saw--
 

 
 
And after cutting the long angle roughly on a bandsaw, worked to smooth and true it with a chisel and files--
 

 
 
The scarf between 6 and 5 is ready to be glued, but that won't happen until the rest are also ready--
 

 
 
I have also made a few "Tosti" clamps (of the simpler "basic" variety), which I plan to use to clamp the keel pieces together when they are ready--
 

 

 
 
Ron
 
 
 
 
 

I am embarking on a new build.   I had thought to not start another until I finished Oneida, but progress is going slow on her, and I am not getting any younger!  Since Oneida is getting near the rigging stage, perhaps going back and forth between hull work on Euryalus, and rigging on Oneida, will keep my interest up in both.
 
I am building a proper layout board, and this is the extent of my progress to date!   It's not finished, and the framing guide is not fastened down yet.
 

 

 

 
It is based on Ed Tosti's Naiad building board, but bigger, as his was for a similar sized ship, but at 1:60 scale.  I understand why the smaller scale.  When I saw the Euryalus plans which are drawn at 1:48, I was quite surprised at the size.  However, I quite like the idea of always building at the same scale, so as my Oneida is 1:48, so also will be my Euryalus.
 

 

 
As I mentioned, I am rigging Oneida, but I have no plans to rig Euryalus.  I would have no place to put it.
 
I have one issue, as I begin.   Volume 1 of Euryalus is now sold out, and out of print at Seawatch books.  I have purchased a new Vol. 2, so I have a complete set of the second volume drawings, but I am missing some drawings from Volume 1.  I am wondering if anyone out there, who owns Volume 1 would allow me to copy the ones I am missing--I believe the ones I need are #6 Body; Bow Pieces; Rudder; Cross Section, and #13 Beam Patterns; Stern Timbers.  Or, if you own Volume 1 (with all the drawings) and do not think you want to keep it.....
 
If the book was still in print I would, of course, purchase it and support the authors, Allan Yedlinsky and Wayne Kempson; and Seawatch books.  Allan and Wayne have been very helpful to me in getting off the ground (off the ways?).  I just need to get copies of those missing drawings!  PM me if you can help.
 
Ron
 
 

Thanks JJ,
 
Going off course a little bit, I worked on making some closed hearts for the bowsprit stays and shrouds--

 
I need two different sizes--4 for the stays, and 4 slightly smaller for the shrouds.  After doing a few after cutting them off, I realized it would be much easier to shape them before cutting them off--


 
Now I need to make a bunch of deadeyes for the topmast shrouds, as well as the backstays.
 
All for now,
Ron

The masts have all been shaped, and fid holes and sheave holes cut into them in various places also.  I blackened using my usual method (shown a few times earlier in this log), and here they are--

 
They are not completely finished.  Tung oil finish is only partly applied, as part of the procedure to minimize bleed of the staining.  I need to attach some eyebolts to the caps; and the shroud deadeyes and some blocks to the tops, but they can finally be temporarily assembled to see how they look--

 
And on the ship--


 
Next will be finishing those parts I mentioned earlier, and checking the deck to see if there's anything else that should be done before starting the standing rigging.   Also making the rest of the bowsprit, and the trymast that attaches to the aft side of the mainmast.  And I'm sure I'll discover additional things that should be done before the stays and shrouds go on!
 
All for now,
Ron
   

Thanks, CiscoH, Håkan, davec and JJ, and all who are looking in and liking.
 
Yes, I like the "workaday" stowed look better than perfectly coiled lines.  The inspiration came from seeing how the working carronade on the Niagara replica ship had been tied down.   There is a photo of it earlier in this log (post #116), but here it is again--

 
My take on it is a little different (simpler to accomplish), but retains the idea of wrapping the tackle falls back and forth across the top of the carronade.
 
The 6-pounder long guns have been installed--


 
Now it's time to put the ship away again--


 
And continue work on Oneida's spars--

 
All for now,
Ron
 
 

I made 4 card templates, and sanded the area of the deadwood below the bearding line.   In between sessions of doing that, I beveled the aft side of the sternpost-

 
After this was done, I glued the sternpost to the keel, and went back to sanding the deadwood.
 
When I was satisfied that I had done enough there, I cut two shallow mortices into the bottom of the deadwood assembly, and then glued in two small tenons.  These weren't meant to be historically accurate, but would add some strength, and help in keeping the piece aligned when gluing the deadwood to the keel and sternpost--

 
The tenons were filed down until they extended only about 1/32nd of an inch.  I then cut two shallow mortices in the keel and glued the deadwood to the keel and sternpost.   I had also morticed and tenoned the sternpost to the keel when I glued it to the keel earlier.   I did not tenon into the sternpost from the deadwood.
 
Here is the sternpost and deadwood glued to the keel.  You can see 4 pencil lines on the upper part of the deadwood (the fourth is barely visible) that had marked the locations for using the card templates--
  
 
Next will be work on the transoms, and fashion timbers.
 
All for now,
Ron
 
 

Thanks JJ,
 
Going off course a little bit, I worked on making some closed hearts for the bowsprit stays and shrouds--

 
I need two different sizes--4 for the stays, and 4 slightly smaller for the shrouds.  After doing a few after cutting them off, I realized it would be much easier to shape them before cutting them off--


 
Now I need to make a bunch of deadeyes for the topmast shrouds, as well as the backstays.
 
All for now,
Ron

Thanks JJ,
 
Going off course a little bit, I worked on making some closed hearts for the bowsprit stays and shrouds--

 
I need two different sizes--4 for the stays, and 4 slightly smaller for the shrouds.  After doing a few after cutting them off, I realized it would be much easier to shape them before cutting them off--


 
Now I need to make a bunch of deadeyes for the topmast shrouds, as well as the backstays.
 
All for now,
Ron

I made 4 card templates, and sanded the area of the deadwood below the bearding line.   In between sessions of doing that, I beveled the aft side of the sternpost-

 
After this was done, I glued the sternpost to the keel, and went back to sanding the deadwood.
 
When I was satisfied that I had done enough there, I cut two shallow mortices into the bottom of the deadwood assembly, and then glued in two small tenons.  These weren't meant to be historically accurate, but would add some strength, and help in keeping the piece aligned when gluing the deadwood to the keel and sternpost--

 
The tenons were filed down until they extended only about 1/32nd of an inch.  I then cut two shallow mortices in the keel and glued the deadwood to the keel and sternpost.   I had also morticed and tenoned the sternpost to the keel when I glued it to the keel earlier.   I did not tenon into the sternpost from the deadwood.
 
Here is the sternpost and deadwood glued to the keel.  You can see 4 pencil lines on the upper part of the deadwood (the fourth is barely visible) that had marked the locations for using the card templates--
  
 
Next will be work on the transoms, and fashion timbers.
 
All for now,
Ron
 
 

I made 4 card templates, and sanded the area of the deadwood below the bearding line.   In between sessions of doing that, I beveled the aft side of the sternpost-

 
After this was done, I glued the sternpost to the keel, and went back to sanding the deadwood.
 
When I was satisfied that I had done enough there, I cut two shallow mortices into the bottom of the deadwood assembly, and then glued in two small tenons.  These weren't meant to be historically accurate, but would add some strength, and help in keeping the piece aligned when gluing the deadwood to the keel and sternpost--

 
The tenons were filed down until they extended only about 1/32nd of an inch.  I then cut two shallow mortices in the keel and glued the deadwood to the keel and sternpost.   I had also morticed and tenoned the sternpost to the keel when I glued it to the keel earlier.   I did not tenon into the sternpost from the deadwood.
 
Here is the sternpost and deadwood glued to the keel.  You can see 4 pencil lines on the upper part of the deadwood (the fourth is barely visible) that had marked the locations for using the card templates--
  
 
Next will be work on the transoms, and fashion timbers.
 
All for now,
Ron
 
 

Thanks JJ,
 
Going off course a little bit, I worked on making some closed hearts for the bowsprit stays and shrouds--

 
I need two different sizes--4 for the stays, and 4 slightly smaller for the shrouds.  After doing a few after cutting them off, I realized it would be much easier to shape them before cutting them off--


 
Now I need to make a bunch of deadeyes for the topmast shrouds, as well as the backstays.
 
All for now,
Ron

The masts have all been shaped, and fid holes and sheave holes cut into them in various places also.  I blackened using my usual method (shown a few times earlier in this log), and here they are--

 
They are not completely finished.  Tung oil finish is only partly applied, as part of the procedure to minimize bleed of the staining.  I need to attach some eyebolts to the caps; and the shroud deadeyes and some blocks to the tops, but they can finally be temporarily assembled to see how they look--

 
And on the ship--


 
Next will be finishing those parts I mentioned earlier, and checking the deck to see if there's anything else that should be done before starting the standing rigging.   Also making the rest of the bowsprit, and the trymast that attaches to the aft side of the mainmast.  And I'm sure I'll discover additional things that should be done before the stays and shrouds go on!
 
All for now,
Ron
   

I spent the last week lashing down the carronades--


 
At the bow are the tackles for the two 6-pounder cannon, and also their breeching lines.
 
The two carriages are nearing completion here, black monofilament fishing line was used for the truck "pins"--

 
After they were finished, fitting the breeching lines was next.  One end was lashed to it's eyebolt and temporarily fixed into the bulwark.  The line was checked for length, allowing for a loop around the cascabel, and the fastening to the other eyelet--

 
The cascabel loop was temporarily tied, as well as the first lashing of the eyebolt, and the length was checked again--

 
As the first breeching line was finished, the second could be made up more quickly using the first as a guide, without needing to check it in place on the ship--

 
 
I've reached my stopping point for the day.  
 
Ron
 

Thanks, JJ.
 
Now that I have finished stropping the blocks, the ship comes out on to the table for rigging the carronades, and two 6-pounder cannon--
.
 
Tackle lines have been cut, dyed a little darker, and are in process of tying to an eyelet in one of each pair of blocks--

 
I had assembled one of the 6-pounder cannon carriages a while ago, now I need to assemble the other one, as well as finish the first with cap-squares, breeching rings and other eyelets.  I have two extra axles pieces here!--

 
All for now,
Ron 

I made 4 card templates, and sanded the area of the deadwood below the bearding line.   In between sessions of doing that, I beveled the aft side of the sternpost-

 
After this was done, I glued the sternpost to the keel, and went back to sanding the deadwood.
 
When I was satisfied that I had done enough there, I cut two shallow mortices into the bottom of the deadwood assembly, and then glued in two small tenons.  These weren't meant to be historically accurate, but would add some strength, and help in keeping the piece aligned when gluing the deadwood to the keel and sternpost--

 
The tenons were filed down until they extended only about 1/32nd of an inch.  I then cut two shallow mortices in the keel and glued the deadwood to the keel and sternpost.   I had also morticed and tenoned the sternpost to the keel when I glued it to the keel earlier.   I did not tenon into the sternpost from the deadwood.
 
Here is the sternpost and deadwood glued to the keel.  You can see 4 pencil lines on the upper part of the deadwood (the fourth is barely visible) that had marked the locations for using the card templates--
  
 
Next will be work on the transoms, and fashion timbers.
 
All for now,
Ron
 
 

Thanks JJ,
 
Going off course a little bit, I worked on making some closed hearts for the bowsprit stays and shrouds--

 
I need two different sizes--4 for the stays, and 4 slightly smaller for the shrouds.  After doing a few after cutting them off, I realized it would be much easier to shape them before cutting them off--


 
Now I need to make a bunch of deadeyes for the topmast shrouds, as well as the backstays.
 
All for now,
Ron

That looks very nice, Ron. Well done