MSW Spring Donation Drive

rlb

NRG Member

View Profile See their activity

Posts
651
Joined
February 15, 2013
Last visited
2 hours ago

Reputation

3,374 Excellent

Reactions Given

770

Reactions Received

3321

Content Type

Profiles

Forums

Posts

Gallery

Events

Reputation Activity

rlb reacted to Toolmaker in What kind, brand and where do you buy your end mills? February 9

Maybe, but it’s a long time past that I did much serious practical work, and there is not much “mere” about either your advice or your machining output. I always enjoy reading your posts.
rlb got a reaction from Canute in What kind, brand and where do you buy your end mills? February 10

Paul, thank you for referring me to "No Idea"'s build log. That is exactly the type of milling that I need to do. I just want to make sure I buy the right type and quality of end mill bit.

Here is a sketch of some of the cuts. Yes, Jaeger, all can be done with a chisel (and I have made them all more than a few times!), but with so many to be done, learning to do these with a milling machine will save me much time.

Ron
rlb got a reaction from Canute in What kind, brand and where do you buy your end mills? February 10

I'm talking 1/4" or 1/8" shank size, 1/16" to 1/4" cutting size.

See below.

This image refers to "router" bits, but I have seen the terminology when talking about end mills as well (not even sure what, if any, difference there is between the two).

Ron
rlb reacted to Jaager in What kind, brand and where do you buy your end mills? February 9

I am having a difficult time imagining where I would need to make any of the three cuts in wood.
For an outside shape, a sanding drum -slower, but more forgiving.
A slitting/slotting blade for a thru channel
A burr for short.
The tip of a 220 twist drill for a rabbet- but in hind sight, I think a chisel would have been wiser - much slower - but wiser.

In any case, I would want to get the wood shaving out. If doing that affects the edge or surface, I would use a different tool.
For wood - slow and shallow?
rlb reacted to Toolmaker in What kind, brand and where do you buy your end mills? February 9

Terminology has to be learnt and even then can remain confusing when we are writing explanations from different countries.

Not all milling cutters can be used to “plunge” cut. In the UK the different types of cutters regarding this issue were known as “end mills” and “slot mills”
What is the differences between a Slot Drill and an End Mill? A slot drill is a mixture of a drill and an end mill meaning it can plunge in like a drill then slot across like an end mill. Conversely, an end mill will primarily cut laterally and horizontally.
If you want your cutters to be able to “plunge cut” make sure you buy the right sort.

Another relevant term is climb/conventional milling. Whether your cutters have right or left hand flutes it will be the direction of travel that dictates whether you are climb milling or conventional milling. This terminology is also known as “up” milling and “down” milling depending where you learn your trade.
There is plenty of internet explanation for the different methods. If your milling for a living it’s worth knowing but for hobby milling taking very small cuts on wood it is really not important.

Member No Idea has discussed milling cutters on his build log and I think his advice is as good as you will ever need.

Good luck with your milling
cheers
Paul
rlb reacted to wefalck in What kind, brand and where do you buy your end mills? February 9

I am coming more from the metal side, where the terms conventional and climb-milling are used.

As toolmaker has pointed out there are end-mills that have one cutting edge that cuts over the centre, these are the ones that can be used for 'plunging' into material (like you do for a drill). Other end-mill can only be used for side-milling.

The only end-mills I have ever come across in practice that do 'down-cut' are certain single-lip carbide cutters. Everything else I have encountered transports the cut material upwards. I am not quite sure for what application the 'down-cut' single-lip carbide cutters were meant for - I got them by accident.

When milling in wood, it is important to have a cutter with a lot of room for chips, which is why router bits typically have only two lips. Three- to four-(or more) lip cutters are for metal. You also want a cutter with a steep spiral to lift the chips quickly out of the slot.

The ubiquituous two-lip carbide end-mills with 1/8" or 1/4" shaft are probably good for most wood applications, if run fast enough.
rlb got a reaction from CiscoH in What kind, brand and where do you buy your end mills? February 10

Paul, thank you for referring me to "No Idea"'s build log. That is exactly the type of milling that I need to do. I just want to make sure I buy the right type and quality of end mill bit.

Here is a sketch of some of the cuts. Yes, Jaeger, all can be done with a chisel (and I have made them all more than a few times!), but with so many to be done, learning to do these with a milling machine will save me much time.

Ron
rlb got a reaction from Mike Y in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship April 2

Thanks, CiscoH, Håkan, davec and JJ, and all who are looking in and liking.

Yes, I like the "workaday" stowed look better than perfectly coiled lines. The inspiration came from seeing how the working carronade on the Niagara replica ship had been tied down. There is a photo of it earlier in this log (post #116), but here it is again--

My take on it is a little different (simpler to accomplish), but retains the idea of wrapping the tackle falls back and forth across the top of the carronade.

The 6-pounder long guns have been installed--

Now it's time to put the ship away again--

And continue work on Oneida's spars--

All for now,
Ron
rlb got a reaction from kgstakes in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship February 18

I spent the last week lashing down the carronades--

At the bow are the tackles for the two 6-pounder cannon, and also their breeching lines.

The two carriages are nearing completion here, black monofilament fishing line was used for the truck "pins"--

After they were finished, fitting the breeching lines was next. One end was lashed to it's eyebolt and temporarily fixed into the bulwark. The line was checked for length, allowing for a loop around the cascabel, and the fastening to the other eyelet--

The cascabel loop was temporarily tied, as well as the first lashing of the eyebolt, and the length was checked again--

As the first breeching line was finished, the second could be made up more quickly using the first as a guide, without needing to check it in place on the ship--

I've reached my stopping point for the day.

Ron
rlb got a reaction from mtaylor in What kind, brand and where do you buy your end mills? February 10

Forgive me if this has been discussed--I did a quick search but didn't find what I was looking for.

I'm new to milling (other than some crude experiments with a Proxxon rotary tool in a drill press type holder), and I'm trying to get my information in order before spending any more on bits/mills

It seems that a 2-flute end mill is good for wood, upcut or downcut I'm not sure, but thinking downcut may be better. I'm not sure how much this matters. Some don't say whether they are up or down cut. I'm looking for good quality, smooth finish, minimal tear-out.

What do you recommend, and who do you get them from? Any other useful info that I should know about end mills?

Thanks,
Ron
rlb got a reaction from davec in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship February 18

Thanks, CiscoH, Håkan, davec and JJ, and all who are looking in and liking.

Yes, I like the "workaday" stowed look better than perfectly coiled lines. The inspiration came from seeing how the working carronade on the Niagara replica ship had been tied down. There is a photo of it earlier in this log (post #116), but here it is again--

My take on it is a little different (simpler to accomplish), but retains the idea of wrapping the tackle falls back and forth across the top of the carronade.

The 6-pounder long guns have been installed--

Now it's time to put the ship away again--

And continue work on Oneida's spars--

All for now,
Ron
rlb got a reaction from Canute in How to "unstick" this chuck from the mill spindle? February 5

Got it!! After a few more vigorous taps (still with a very small hammer) it came loose--

Thanks everyone for your help--this case is now closed.
Ron
rlb got a reaction from Canute in How to "unstick" this chuck from the mill spindle? February 5

Thanks for the video, Dziadeczek. He looks like he is tapping harder and with a bigger hammer than I did, so I will probably try this again. The mill sat unused for many years, which might make the chuck harder to dislodge. I did try with a wooden wedge, but the wedge broke apart.

Ron
rlb got a reaction from Canute in How to "unstick" this chuck from the mill spindle? February 5

Thanks everyone for your advice.

Sherline does sell a "knockout bar" as described by Roger Pellet, so perhaps they expect light tapping (with a soft hammer) would not be harmful? I do take mnl's caution seriously though, and I have also looked into the Jacobs chuck wedge sets. With shipping and tax one of those would be around $30, not the end of the world, but it would be easy enough to make a similar "U" shaped hardwood wedge that I think I will try first.
rlb got a reaction from Canute in How to "unstick" this chuck from the mill spindle? February 5

Thanks Pat and Alan.

I was able to find a draw bar in the box of accessories, and thread it into the top of the chuck through the spindle assembly.

I gave it a few taps with a small hammer but it didn't budge. I'm nervous of hitting it too hard. But am I on the right track?

Ron
rlb got a reaction from Canute in How to "unstick" this chuck from the mill spindle? February 5

Hello all,

Today I had the opportunity to buy a used Sherline lathe and mill, so I did.

I have no prior experience with them so I am reading the online manual from the Sherline website, and trying to familiarize myself with the basic nomenclature and basic operation of these machines. From what I have learned so far, they are somewhat older machines, (probably pre 1999) but still model 4000 for the lathe, and 5000 for the mill.

I have one roadblock immediately. The jacobs chuck is stuck in the mill spindle--

Am I right that this should be just a friction fit? What is the best way to loosen/remove this? I ask this knowing that some may be thinking "if he can't do this, these machines are wasted on him".

Any advice is appreciated.

Ron
rlb got a reaction from j21896 in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship February 9

Thanks, CiscoH, Håkan, davec and JJ, and all who are looking in and liking.

Yes, I like the "workaday" stowed look better than perfectly coiled lines. The inspiration came from seeing how the working carronade on the Niagara replica ship had been tied down. There is a photo of it earlier in this log (post #116), but here it is again--

My take on it is a little different (simpler to accomplish), but retains the idea of wrapping the tackle falls back and forth across the top of the carronade.

The 6-pounder long guns have been installed--

Now it's time to put the ship away again--

And continue work on Oneida's spars--

All for now,
Ron
rlb got a reaction from schooner in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship February 8

Thanks, CiscoH, Håkan, davec and JJ, and all who are looking in and liking.

Yes, I like the "workaday" stowed look better than perfectly coiled lines. The inspiration came from seeing how the working carronade on the Niagara replica ship had been tied down. There is a photo of it earlier in this log (post #116), but here it is again--

My take on it is a little different (simpler to accomplish), but retains the idea of wrapping the tackle falls back and forth across the top of the carronade.

The 6-pounder long guns have been installed--

Now it's time to put the ship away again--

And continue work on Oneida's spars--

All for now,
Ron
rlb got a reaction from j21896 in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship February 9

I spent the last week lashing down the carronades--

At the bow are the tackles for the two 6-pounder cannon, and also their breeching lines.

The two carriages are nearing completion here, black monofilament fishing line was used for the truck "pins"--

After they were finished, fitting the breeching lines was next. One end was lashed to it's eyebolt and temporarily fixed into the bulwark. The line was checked for length, allowing for a loop around the cascabel, and the fastening to the other eyelet--

The cascabel loop was temporarily tied, as well as the first lashing of the eyebolt, and the length was checked again--

As the first breeching line was finished, the second could be made up more quickly using the first as a guide, without needing to check it in place on the ship--

I've reached my stopping point for the day.

Ron
rlb got a reaction from tlevine in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship February 5

Thanks, CiscoH, Håkan, davec and JJ, and all who are looking in and liking.

Yes, I like the "workaday" stowed look better than perfectly coiled lines. The inspiration came from seeing how the working carronade on the Niagara replica ship had been tied down. There is a photo of it earlier in this log (post #116), but here it is again--

My take on it is a little different (simpler to accomplish), but retains the idea of wrapping the tackle falls back and forth across the top of the carronade.

The 6-pounder long guns have been installed--

Now it's time to put the ship away again--

And continue work on Oneida's spars--

All for now,
Ron
rlb got a reaction from Dowmer in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship February 4

I spent the last week lashing down the carronades--

At the bow are the tackles for the two 6-pounder cannon, and also their breeching lines.

The two carriages are nearing completion here, black monofilament fishing line was used for the truck "pins"--

After they were finished, fitting the breeching lines was next. One end was lashed to it's eyebolt and temporarily fixed into the bulwark. The line was checked for length, allowing for a loop around the cascabel, and the fastening to the other eyelet--

The cascabel loop was temporarily tied, as well as the first lashing of the eyebolt, and the length was checked again--

As the first breeching line was finished, the second could be made up more quickly using the first as a guide, without needing to check it in place on the ship--

I've reached my stopping point for the day.

Ron
rlb got a reaction from Dowmer in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship February 4

Thanks, CiscoH, Håkan, davec and JJ, and all who are looking in and liking.

Yes, I like the "workaday" stowed look better than perfectly coiled lines. The inspiration came from seeing how the working carronade on the Niagara replica ship had been tied down. There is a photo of it earlier in this log (post #116), but here it is again--

My take on it is a little different (simpler to accomplish), but retains the idea of wrapping the tackle falls back and forth across the top of the carronade.

The 6-pounder long guns have been installed--

Now it's time to put the ship away again--

And continue work on Oneida's spars--

All for now,
Ron
rlb got a reaction from bhermann in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship February 4

Thanks, CiscoH, Håkan, davec and JJ, and all who are looking in and liking.

Yes, I like the "workaday" stowed look better than perfectly coiled lines. The inspiration came from seeing how the working carronade on the Niagara replica ship had been tied down. There is a photo of it earlier in this log (post #116), but here it is again--

My take on it is a little different (simpler to accomplish), but retains the idea of wrapping the tackle falls back and forth across the top of the carronade.

The 6-pounder long guns have been installed--

Now it's time to put the ship away again--

And continue work on Oneida's spars--

All for now,
Ron
rlb got a reaction from bhermann in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship February 4

I spent the last week lashing down the carronades--

At the bow are the tackles for the two 6-pounder cannon, and also their breeching lines.

The two carriages are nearing completion here, black monofilament fishing line was used for the truck "pins"--

After they were finished, fitting the breeching lines was next. One end was lashed to it's eyebolt and temporarily fixed into the bulwark. The line was checked for length, allowing for a loop around the cascabel, and the fastening to the other eyelet--

The cascabel loop was temporarily tied, as well as the first lashing of the eyebolt, and the length was checked again--

As the first breeching line was finished, the second could be made up more quickly using the first as a guide, without needing to check it in place on the ship--

I've reached my stopping point for the day.

Ron
rlb got a reaction from scrubbyj427 in US Brig Oneida 1809 by rlb - The Lumberyard - 1:48 scale - POF - Lake Ontario Warship February 4

Thanks, CiscoH, Håkan, davec and JJ, and all who are looking in and liking.

Yes, I like the "workaday" stowed look better than perfectly coiled lines. The inspiration came from seeing how the working carronade on the Niagara replica ship had been tied down. There is a photo of it earlier in this log (post #116), but here it is again--

My take on it is a little different (simpler to accomplish), but retains the idea of wrapping the tackle falls back and forth across the top of the carronade.

The 6-pounder long guns have been installed--

Now it's time to put the ship away again--

And continue work on Oneida's spars--

All for now,
Ron

About us

Modelshipworld - Advancing Ship Modeling through Research

SSL Secured

Your security is important for us so this Website is SSL-Secured

NRG Mailing Address

Nautical Research Guild
237 South Lincoln Street
Westmont IL, 60559-1917

Model Ship World ® and the MSW logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,929,264 & No. 6,929,274, registered Dec. 20, 2022)

Helpful Links

About the NRG

If you enjoy building ship models that are historically accurate as well as beautiful, then The Nautical Research Guild (NRG) is just right for you.

The Guild is a non-profit educational organization whose mission is to “Advance Ship Modeling Through Research”. We provide support to our members in their efforts to raise the quality of their model ships.

The Nautical Research Guild has published our world-renowned quarterly magazine, The Nautical Research Journal, since 1955. The pages of the Journal are full of articles by accomplished ship modelers who show you how they create those exquisite details on their models, and by maritime historians who show you the correct details to build. The Journal is available in both print and digital editions. Go to the NRG web site (www.thenrg.org) to download a complimentary digital copy of the Journal. The NRG also publishes plan sets, books and compilations of back issues of the Journal and the former Ships in Scale and Model Ship Builder magazines.

Our Emblem ®

Nautical Research Guild ® and the NRG logo are Registered Trademarks, and belong to the Nautical Research Guild (United States Patent and Trademark Office: No. 6,999,236 & No. 6,999,237, registered March 14, 2023)

Sign In

rlb

Posts

Joined

Last visited