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Q A's Revenge

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  1. Available in the USA here: http://sandplate.com/index.html
  2. Ok, just given it a quick try on these two woods and it seems quite good. The packaging said the abrasive "plate" that it came fitted with was medium grade but it gives quite a fine finish so fine/medium might be a better description. I compared it to my standard sander fitted with 400 grit and it seemed pretty similar performance wise except the the conventional sander clogged quite quickly and lost its sharpness as well. The NT Dresser Tool remained unchanged. Whether it lasts 50 times longer than abrasive paper remains to be seen but I expect it's quite possible on woods that are not very hard. The tool itself is a nice shape and fits nicely in the hand. It appears to be some kind of alloy casting with a painted finish. It is perhaps a little slippery though so I think I'd prefer it if they used a matt paint on it but I may well get used to it. If not I have a sand blaster in the garage so it may get "blasted" in the near future if it bugs me! UPDATE. I've just washed the wood dust off and it's not as slippery as it seemed so maybe my comment was a bit harsh! Total weight is around 145g or just over 5oz. I would like to try some of the other different abrasive plates with it but I've yet to find a supplier for them. Dictum only seem to stock the standard plates. Next time I place an order with them I plan to buy the smaller triangular detail sander.
  3. Will do. They also make this detail sander:
  4. Just got one of these to try. Not used it yet though so you'll have to wait for a review! http://www.ntcutter.co.jp/m-20g.htm I bought it from Dictum in Germany. http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/705127/Precision-Hand-Grinder-NT-Sanding-Platen-Rectangular-Slim.htm
  5. This users guide is pretty good as well. http://www.littlemachineshop.com/gallery/ug/4700%20Micro%20Mill%20Users%20Guide.pdf
  6. Sure Bob, any help? The base is only MDF which I don't much like so I'll replace it when I can. The main column is 20 x 330mm Silver Steel (precision ground rod)
  7. A heat shunt stops parts getting too hot if that's what you mean? http://www.maplin.co.uk/heat-shunt-3930
  8. No I did'nt make it. They made a batch of them where I worked for PCB drilling and were kind enough to let me have one when I said I was going to make one myself. It seems like a nice design though.
  9. This is interesting stuff. Would there be any merit in a "show us your drill press setup" thread? I like to see what stuff others are using so maybe you guys do as well. I suggest we keep the chatter down between posters so the pictures can speak for themselves. Any thoughts?
  10. I've noticed on some models the sails look really floppy and do not hang in a very realistic way. Perhaps moisture is causing the problem in some cases. Is there some kind of treatment that can be applied to improve the appearance of sails on model boats?
  11. Looks nice painted. http://www.boatinternational.com/2011/10/10/j-class-yacht-endeavour-relaunched-by-yachting-developments-after-major-refit/
  12. I have though about tool cabinets with drawers (I actually have a spare Par-X box) but like the idea of having the tools easily to hand on the wooden "rack".
  13. I first came across this tool box some time ago and dismissed the idea for general tools because it was quite expensive and I wasn't sure the arrangement of slots and holes would suit the tools I had in mind for it. http://www.mehr-als-werkzeug.de/product/718811/Systainer-T-LOC-with-DICK-Tool-Carrier-Cabinet-Making-Interior-Work.htm I've always liked the concept though and recently came across this version: http://www.mtmc.co.uk/Festool-497658-SYS-HWZ-T-LOC-Systainer-With-Insert__p-41606.aspx I'm now thinking that something like this would be good for my modelling tools this time. Still not sure about the configuration or the size of the box overall but I'm now thinking I could make my own plywood insert to suit my own tools to fit the bigger SYS 5 box. http://www.angliatoolcentre.co.uk/festool-497567-sys-5-t-loc-systainer-pid37800.html Seems like the best of both worlds, somewhere safe and secure for tool storage but with easy access once the plywood "tote" containing the tools is taken out. What do you guys think, worth the effort or not?
  14. Meredith, what are you trying to do to me! I already have a tool addiction and you start posting very nice pictures of some very nice tools. And to add insult to injury you've even posted links as well! Not sure how my bank balance is going to recover now. Your posts should have a "wealth warning" for folks like me. :-)
  15. Motor tools normally come with a range of at least three or four collets. One on these collets should take the smaller bits. Most (import) drill presses seem to have pretty poor chucks that don't clamp anything much smaller than a 3/32 bit. You could put the bit in a suitable pin chuck first then put this in a drill press but I doubt the bit will run true unless you're very lucky. Best option would be to replace the chuck with a better one that goes down to the size you need. I have a 16mm (5/8) capacity chuck that is supposed to go down very low but I've not actually checked the smallest bit it can grip. Update: I've just checked on one ME site and most drill press chucks only go down to .5mm. Some of the small 6mm capacity chucks claim to go down to .4mm so that's nearly down to #78.
  16. Hhm, I only have a bandsaw so I'll have to give this some thought! :-)
  17. Model engineering is one of my other hobbies Bob and when folks ask what machine to get on any of the other forums I frequent, the answer is always the same: "buy the biggest machine you can afford/have space for" and "you can do small work on large machines but you can't do large work on small ones!" I have quite a large mill in the garage but if I was after something smaller for model boat building I personally wouldn't go for anything smaller than the two I linked. In fact I think the specs make them almost ideal for the job provided you have the budget and space for one.
  18. I would expect that it would be best to remove the burnt residue. Is there a good solvent that can be used instead of sanding on bulkheads that are to be left unfaired?
  19. Not helpful for this build I know but it illustrates what experienced builders on here have been saying about the importance of edge gluing and getting tight joints. ;-)
  20. The earlier linked Mill is also available to UK buyers here: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Milling-Machines/SIEG-Super-X1LP-Mill
  21. Your thread on milling and jig making is going to be very useful to folks Nigel. Many thanks and keep them coming!
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