Aussie048
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Aussie048 reacted to UdoK in HMS Bounty by UdoK
Hi all,
the keel has been glued to the structure and the stem half Frames are installed.
Before I move on to the modification of the Stern and Transom Frames I will prepare the Hawse pieces.
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Aussie048 reacted to UdoK in HMS Bounty by UdoK
Thanks for the Likes!
The new Backbone is ready, beside the Modification on the after Deadwood I have cut the Stem Rabbet, tapered the head of the Knee and glued together all the parts.
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Aussie048 reacted to UdoK in HMS Bounty by UdoK
Well, I think I have figured out something what should work.
A close comparison of the Hahn plans by the AotS Body lines of the Bounty pointed out that Hahn has drawn the rear Framework to the overall size including the Planking. It seems he started to increase the Cant Frames from the bottom of the whale towards the sternpost and keel to meet the rabbet.
So, I need to reduce the width of Frame 29 - 35 plus the transom wings by the plank thickness for a true and nice run of the Planks into the rabbet.
The Pictures already show a modified deadwood, the thickness of the deadwood is reduced to meet the rabbet.
Here we go, making sawdust to see am I right!
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Aussie048 reacted to UdoK in HMS Bounty by UdoK
Hi all,
after a break due to several different reason the new Stem and head of the knee from pear is ready.
To simulate the caulking I did some Research on different sorts of black paper.
Finally I ended up with the black paper supplied in the Caldercraft kit of my Endeavour. I find it the best result for the strenght of the Joints and thickness.
The paper is 0.18mm thick, converted to real size it makes a caulking of 9mm (11/32") between the Joints what I think is very realistic.
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Aussie048 reacted to popeye the sailor in Half Moon by popeye the sailor - Billing Boats - 1:40 scale kit
I went into the camera........yea, there were still a few in there. here is a close up of the nests.
horror show...........or no?
more work on the rails......progress on the top rails.
here is the center rails
the other side of the rudder is planked over.......now to wrap the outer edges to hide all the plys
the top rails are shaped and ready for stain. the center rails are next, and then I can make the final pair of curved rails.
I'll even need to bend a couple to run along the edge of the mid ship...from the bow to the stern. more to come.
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Aussie048 reacted to Tarjack in HMY Royal Caroline 1749 by Tarjack - 1:50 - bone model
Step 2
The roof is placed
Step 3
the bell beam
Step 4
Finally a few belaying pin´s
Finish
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Aussie048 reacted to Tarjack in HMY Royal Caroline 1749 by Tarjack - 1:50 - bone model
Search picture riddle
find the 22 differences
before
after
Who can find the differences, may read more
The conversion was necessary because I was still a bit inexperienced in the processing of bone 20 years ago
Step 1
The belfry is equipped with wheels in the supports
to be continue
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Aussie048 reacted to NAZGÛL in Wasan 1628 by Nazgul - FINISHED - Billing Boats Vasa 1:75
Small update. I had lots of work this week, but had time to mount the knights.
First two reference pictures of the real ones:
And here are how mine turned out:
/Matti
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Aussie048 reacted to CaptainSteve in Bounty Launch by KeithW - FINISHED - Model Shipways - SMALL - kitbashed
Keith,
Thanks (once again) for addressing a topic which undoubtedly will become very pertinent for myself within a few months. I went a-googling for pics which I'd hope would answer your question and came up close to empty-handed.
The best I could find was by our very own Chuck Passaro. Even this doesn't really answer the question you asked. But here it is, anyway:
The only other somewhat appropriate pic I could find was this next one ... which really is a much more modern type of sailboat:
Other than these, the best I can suggest would be taking a stroll down by Port Phillip Bay to see if you can spot something you like. Although, I suspect that 18th Century boats might be rather thin on the ground (or water, in this case).
For my own build, I was thinking of semi-furled sails - almost as though they were in the process of being raised (or lowered).
PS: I agree with Bindy ... your sewing machine really could do with a couple of Hello Kitty stickers.
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Aussie048 reacted to michael mott in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
I had posted this last night but....
Again thanks for all the positive comments and for the likes.
Yesterday I finished up the deck part of the main sheet tackle. first I used some rubber like insulation from some heavy wire.
I slipped about 3/4 of an inch onto some 1/8th inch diameter brass rod and parted it off into some 1/4 inch long sections.
then made the small sliding part after grinding up a form milling cutter. after fitting it up I spent the rest of the day making the two single blocks and fitting them to the deck.
I swung out the boom to finish threading the rope plus I wanted to see how much rope I would need it turned out to be almost 18 feet, with about 1 foot laying on each side of the cockpit as part of that distance.
All I need to do to finish the main sheet control now is to add either a couple of cleats to the deck or to set in some bits and also to fit a proper bit of hardware to the boom.
I have also been looking at the whole way the rudder assembly is fitted and the way it penetrates the deck. The tiller attachment area is a bit small and I don't like the fact that it is fixed.
Michael
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Aussie048 reacted to Rustyj in HMS Winchelsea 1764 by Rustyj - 1/64 - POB - 32-Gun Frigate
I've been working my way towards the center and this is how far I've gotten.
While gluing them up I had a thought about putting some bracing between the bulkheads to
help stiffen them some more for when I have to fair them. I also thought it may help eliminate
any change of the hull twisting. I took and measured the distance between the bulkheads at
the former and cut a piece of bracing and glued it towards the outer edge making sure not to
displace the bulkheads.
It seems to be working. I'll let you know when I finish with all of them.
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Aussie048 reacted to fifthace in Bounty by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - OcCre - 1/45
What do the plans say with regard to planking? On the Bounty that plank should follow the bottom edge of the bulwark upwards towards the stern, (as it is flush with the lay of the deck), and at the bow again should follow the bottom edge of the bulwark upwards. and the top of that plank should be level with the deck amidships. Though looking at the forward bulwarks the plank should be flush with the top edge...
See on mine:
Also, the map pins, put them through the frames rather than the plank. The pin will help hold the plank in position and stop it from springing straight and the cap of the pin will hold it against the frame, and you won't be putting holes through the planks or risk splitting them.
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Aussie048 reacted to Mike Dowling in Bounty by Mike Dowling - FINISHED - OcCre - 1/45
Hi all,
I have just spent 3 days trying to make the Bounty launch with virtually no instructions. I have done my best by looking at other logs and plans so please don't be too judgemental. My filling balsa has arrived!! I have put some in and nearly finished the sanding so I am now running out of excuses for not starting the planking. I am just so scared I can see loads of lack of sleep worrying about it but, seeing as how we are supposed to admit to both our successes and mistakes I will keep you updated. Here is my work to date!!
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Aussie048 reacted to Tarjack in Holding tool for holding small parts
what does the gross motor modeler if he wants to produce parts that are so small that it can no longer hold it in your fingers ?
1 He curses : * ohnowhatthef............ *
2 It clamps the part in the vise .......... a 10th of a second later .............. crunching ..............* ohnowhatthef........*
3 He holds the part convulsively with the tweezers ............. 2 10ths of seconds later ............ pling ............ *sowhatthehel....*
4 He reads this report carefully .................................
For my mini-blocks at the Royal Yacht Caroline , I needed a device to the tiny blocks 2 x 3 x 1,78 mm (with wheels ! ) To process .
The existing watchmaker Hand vices was too rough .......
Take two strips pear wood 7.5 x 4 x 100 mm connect with screws
At the ends of each milling a notch , filing, carving . The notch is adapted to clamp the workpiece , not crushed.
Then prepare the workpiece
Well , the workpiece can be processed (without crunching or pling )
And here is the result. A block 1.7 x 2 x 3 mm with washer
Hand vices To prepare the Special I (incl. Search the screws, etc. ) used about 10 minutes
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Aussie048 reacted to Vivian Galad in Red Dragon by Vivian Galad - Artesania Latina - 1:60 - modified
Some more updates. Finished the cabin and closed it. As I study the AL plans, I wish they could be more acurate on their model - There are some issues with bullwarks stanchions, for there are none and I have to ask what holds the bullwarks in place? There are 2 platforms and nothing to hold them from below - even when they seem part of the deck, my instincts and knowledge say to me there should be some beams.
Have found some problems with wood, too, since some of the them aren´t the same color they´r suposed to be - for that matter, I´m using my scrapbox.
Cabin closed and planked. Still don´t know if I´ll let the wood be or if I paint it in the process - All indicates I should paint the wood, but my heart loves the wood alone. I´ll frame the windows on the outside, yet.
Oh, yes, I remade the bed. It was a little rough.
A night view from the deck. I´m still thinking if the rest of my lanterns should be functional. Maybe one or two.
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Aussie048 reacted to Tarjack in HMY Royal Caroline 1749 by Tarjack - 1:50 - bone model
As a small interlude to the tiny eyebolts, hooks, blocks, etc. something right once again great. Exept for men hands.
The Channels
The channels serve the shrouds of the side walls away from the shipside.
They are made allmost from 2 pieces. The woods are lengthwise lasching with each other
Then left and right curved out the board.
The holes for the backstays iron sawing out before assembling the two pieces and also set the holes for the eyebolts
bring together
The holes for chains made with tablesaw
The profiles for cover the chainholes
here is it
Have fun
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Aussie048 reacted to Tarjack in HMY Royal Caroline 1749 by Tarjack - 1:50 - bone model
But now .... a few impressions of figures ....... this time there are two roosters
they represent the the form of the Protestants in GB
First search the Material
Now enjoy the working steps
Have fun
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Aussie048 reacted to coffeebeans in Cutty Sark by coffeebeans - Artesania Latina - scale 1:84
Onwards with the build, and onto the side rails and embellishments
first off the list was the troublesome stern part of the kick board, the angle needed was tricky to get with the provided sapelli, the grain of almost all strips were to an angle rather than ripped straight, meaning any attempt at bending ended up with it flaking out at the bend.
Finaly, after about 5 attempts i had one i could work with
from then on it was fairly easy sailing
here it is blended in
now for the uprights, these were spaced at 14mm
the 'embelishments' took a fair chunk of time to make, and i wasn't too keen on them protruding from the sides, but this was just a case of what the kit called for, also i am awear that they dont continue around the stern on the actual ship but the kit instructions pictured them to
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Aussie048 reacted to coffeebeans in Cutty Sark by coffeebeans - Artesania Latina - scale 1:84
While glue is drying on the gunwales, i thought i might start on some of the deck hardware, but was instantly halted.
first on the list was the windlass.
the materials provided in the kit were ok but i wanted to get it a bit more realistic.
this is what would have been if i followed the plans.
The toothed wheel, brakes and spacers were alright, just the drums were off as shown in the pictures
from the rebuild
and from Lou's Onedrive page
to start i took a piece of spare dowel and attached strips of 2x1 evenly around it.
then cut to length and just a small square was glued to the ends which would later be carved to shape.
here is the comparison to the original drum
last of all everything got a coat of primer and matt black, then everything was assembled on a Ø2mm axle
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Aussie048 reacted to coffeebeans in Cutty Sark by coffeebeans - Artesania Latina - scale 1:84
Straight into the gunwale covers, using provided 'sapeli' timber i soaked the strips in water for about an hour before clamping into place
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Aussie048 reacted to michael mott in Bristol Pilot Cutter by michael mott - 1/8 scale - POF
Thank you all for your kind remarks and for all those who pushed the like button.
I did a little work today on the bracket to hold the main-sheet tackle to the deck.
First some sketches after looking at a few on the web.
the block of brass was 2 inches by 1/2 inch by 7/8th inch. using a 5/16 ball end I roughed out the main block.
Then with files after the rest of the machining got the block to the final shape.
A little more work with finer files and some wet and dry sandpaper then a buff in the dremmel
A pin machined down from some 3/16th with a 2x56 thread for the cap end.
Next the central unit that will be sandwiched between some rubber buffers each side, that the shackle and lower block attach to.
Michael
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Aussie048 reacted to harlequin in HMS Bellona by harlequin - FINISHED - Corel
First planking now completed. Not much filler needed to produce a clean smooth hull. The outlines of the next gun ports have been marked out. Now the fun begins. That's a lot of the prep work out of the way. I always find the first planking annoying simply because of the amount of work involved but will ultimately be hidden from view. Some of the deck planks will be added next to the bow and stern transom.
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Aussie048 reacted to bill24 in HMS Bellona by harlequin - FINISHED - Corel
Thanks Harlequin,
I think I am a little wiser on how to do the planking, am I right in thinking that you have modified the planking method from how the plans show it? I have completed the planking above the gun ports, so I am ready to complete the rest of the hull, will try this week and then post some photographs of my efforts
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Aussie048 reacted to harlequin in HMS Bellona by harlequin - FINISHED - Corel
stern planking. The small gaps will be filled with slithers of wood, and prior to the second planking the stern planks will be reduced quite considerably in thickness.
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Aussie048 reacted to harlequin in HMS Bellona by harlequin - FINISHED - Corel
couple of first planking pics. Took a long time coming. Not a lot of filler will be required and the gun ports need finishing.
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