Aussie048

Thank you very much nmbrook. I used informations from book James Lees - The masting and rigging of English ships of war. In download section you can find the table which is very helpful.
 
Back to my model. I finally finished lower parts of masts.

Another detail on masts - collars.

Thanks everyone for the compliments .
 
Little bit progress in mast constuction.

Re-post continuation

Hi all,
 
first I will re-post pictures from the old forum. Then I will continue with new pictures.

Jason, Jim, thank you so much.
 
It was time today to fix in place all the deck blocks and the respective sliding decks, using cyano gel.
The conscecutive steps in photos just for the beginners....

Top deck warping:
By wrapping the deck in soaked paper towel and two minutes in the microwave I was able to rubber-band the deck in place and let it dry.
 
Then I glued it and nailed it down and set it off to dry again with some rubber-bands.

 
The rear bulkhead suffered some slightly aggressive sanding by someone and I might have to redo it. I was trying to flatten it out to put the deck on but as you can see it is a little off.

 
Does anyone know if that rear deck should have the same curve as the main deck?

My first ever treenails!
Tools: #69 drill bit and pin vise
Bic mechanical pencil 0.7mm lead

 
I had tried with the #70 drill bit but it turned out to fit better with the #69, not to mention I broke my #70 bit in the first few holes drilled I also tried fitting the lead in by hand and by tweezer, it worked best right out of the pencil and just snapped off.
 
This is also sanded with 220 grit and treated with wipe-on poly from min wax clear satin.

 
A few of the holes went clear through. Oops.

 
I am quite pleased with the result however.

Moving along

I am now planking the false decks or lower decks. Sadly not gun decks but, deck planking none the less.
The kit has made some improvements as far as I can tell. Some wood has changed and it's hard to tell from the parts list and supplies what is what. I've noticed that only some of the photos in the instructions have been update and not all.
 
Having fun. This might be my favorite part of building... Assembling the hull framing and bulkheads. It went far to quickly on the Jolly boat the first boat I built. Making me think I might like a Fully Framed model project one day.
 
Cheers

Something like this?

It was time to break out the keel and see if it was warped. I'm prepared with my cutlass and whiskey.
 

Unfortunately even before starting I noticed this piece of plywood was warped. And upon putting it together, it was painfully obvious I would need extra work to get it straight. This is dry fitted.
 

I also noticed a serious flaw/hole in the plywood.  I am just thinking of filling it with wood filler.  Anyone have experience with this sort of thing?
 
Another picture of the warp.

 
Kind of a rough start to a project, immediately finding flaws. But I guess if this were easy it would not be as satisfying once you're done.
 
 
 

This build is coming right on the heels of the Bounty Jolly Boat. 
 
I decided to go with the same maker, Artesania Latina, while I was not particularly impressed with their instructions it did leave me with some creative license in the end.
 
I chose the Swift 1805 at 1:50 scale. I wanted increase in size and complexity, double planking and two masts.

 
The following is the unboxing and contents.  I noticed it was definitely bigger but not by much. Much bigger than this and I will need a bigger shipyard. Admiral?!

 
Some nice selection of parts. I noted 167 parts on the part list.

 
Here is a picture of the simplistic instructions. One picture of the completed step to be paired with a short two or three sentences on what to do. Make note here, never do they say how to do it.  But that was this forum is for, and build logs!
I really excited about the two little decks under the main deck, don't know what they might be call beyond a hold.

 
The plans, nice, they say 1:1, big readable, I'll have to check to make sure they are 1:1. Long part list.

Spar/mast lay out as well. A fair bit more rigging diagrams, but I have bought a reference for that since the Bounty had basically no guidance.

 
And here are the wood bits and pieces.  Comes with sails. And a base and mounts. (Still trying to figure out the base for the Jolly Boat)

 

this is a new build of the billing boats. st roch 605 1.72 scale this going to be a fun build the boat sits in vancouver iam 4hrs away from there . so here are some pic of the boat kit 
 
 

 
and yes its all here in the kit i did a check list of all the parts .ps i took a break and yes iam back 

The deck clamps were installed next.

I made the “brick base” from Padauk and the stove from basswood.

So carrying on.....
 
The fairleads for #3 and #4 have now been cut in to the aft bulwark. Bits have also been added along the length of the spar deck.
 
I did have to make some modifications to the aft end of the spar deck, namely adding extra deck space to allow for the winches to be mounted together aft of #20 hatch. This ties in with alterations that needed to be made to the afterhouse.
 
The kit supplied afterhouse needed to be shortened, and a new superstructure for the promenade deck built. Looking back, these are the two issues that bugged me about my original attempt, so not they're being dealt with. Shortening the afterhouse improved the overall look of the vessel considerable, bringing everything into better context.
 
For anyone in the area interested I will be displaying my ship at the Toronto Railway Prototype Modelers meet tomorrow, at Humber College. For Info: Toronto RPM
 
Andy

Yambo no apologies needed, regarding the cutting from the solid wood it is something that I am contemplating finding a piece of cherry with a bit of curved grain would make that decision much easier. You are correct though about the difference in appearance and it is something I need to decide on from the aesthetic point of view.
 
Ed thanks for endorsement on the tube, and you thoughts on the gluing I will try that, it makes a lot of sense. I did just clamp up the cherry that soaked overnight, bending it cold and with a metal wrap perhaps I will go unclamp it and redo it with the glue.
 

 
I am also looking at some thinner sections.
 

 
Michael

thank you for the comments
 
sorry I haven't been posting for awhile but I have taking a bit of a break from the online world
 
I have been slowly but steadily working on this build though
 
second planking is finished
 
I have applied a first layer of filler, mainly to seal most of the gaps between the planks and have sanded most of it smooth
 
after that I have added the last keel part and used some more filler to seal the gaps between that part and the hull
 

 
I will now finish the sanding and then check for bumps and such and apply more filler
 
this will then finally allow me to start the painting of the hull
 
 
 
 

I made up my culverins, at the end of the barrel they had more of a protrusion than anything, so I filed and started drilling them out with a 0.5 mm bit.. They look alright...Ollie

Young America - extreme clipper 1853
Part 50 – Port side ceiling continued
 
In the first picture some of the 8” thick bilge ceiling members between the forward and midship view ports have been installed and one of the lower members is being glued into place.
 

 
The next picture shows this area a bit later, unobscured by clamping.
 

 
Strapping installation has been proceeding in parallel and keeping ahead of the ceiling members and deck clamps.  The next picture shows the extent of the midship view port – left free of strapping.  The members marked “X” will be removed later up to the middle deck clamp.
 

 
In addition to exposing the inside of the lower hull, the view ports will also show the cross sections of the ceiling and other inboard planking and structural members.  A part of the ceiling cross section can be seen below.
 

 
Below is another view of the port side inboard area aft of midship.
 

 
Bolting of the bilge ceiling and deck clamps is keeping pace with the other work.  The next picture shows the area between the view ports drilled and partially bolted.
 

 
The bilge ceiling ends are easier to fit after the lower deck clamp is in place.  The next picture shows the aftermost section of the lower deck clamp being installed.
 

 
The strapping is nearing completion in this picture.  The next picture shows most of the strapping work completed.  A few lower pieces near midship have not yet been installed.
 

 
The outline of the aft view port can be seen in this picture.
 
 
Ed

Hi Mates,
 
Gun carriages part one.
 
Moving forward knowing that I still needed to finish up some deadeye channel plates, but I needed a "fresh" task. I was in the doldrums.
 
So, since it's really time for thinking about the weather deck cannons, here are some preliminary details. Having fun with this.....
 
Choices were to install Corel issued cannons and carriages or disregard these. I had already purchased some decorative cannons so the real decision was; should I use Corel carriages or build some. Easy choice.
 
Pics are fairly self-explanatory.
 
First pic is what Corel offered.
Second pic is taken from the museum upper gun deck. Carriages are much boxier.
 
The "M” I used as a template for aligning the sides during gluing.
 
I did not have a wide enough piece of timber to make the bases so I glued two pieces together and then shaped them to the correct width.
 
The first semi-completed carriage is just a sample. I will need to adjust the cannon placement. Its a bit too far aft, but you get the idea. Also sanding and further detailing will follow, along with grooves for the axles. I will use smaller wheels for the rear.
 
I have all of the metal bits, hooks, wheel metal rings, and beautiful blocks and ropes that I just received from Chuck at Syren.
 
Yes, I know that the weather deck cannons are incorrect for the Vasa, but in this instance I don't care (:-)
 
Lastly I just received a set of 50 decorative cannons for the upper and lower gun decks. So all of the cannons will at least match. Again, thanks so much for dropping by it is so appreciated.
 
Regards,
 
Michael

Keith,
 
Hi, thanks so much for dropping by. When I started this log, I did not include the very early stages, as those tend to be very redundant for so many kit builds. However in the case of the Corel's Vasa it could be informative in that Corel very much miss-managed the shape of the stern. Here are some early pics of the build. I hope that they are helpful. I followed the kit plans to a "T".
 
With regard to adding 8 mm per side it would, I think create other issues.
 
1) it would sort of "Bow" outward the entire stern as you would need to add girth from the keel up to the weather deck. You would have to start a bit aft of mid-ship to still create proper longitudinal look to the hull
 
2) it would probably create larger gaps when you install the decorative pieces. Note on my build that I did not broaden the stern and there still are minor gaps in the spacing of the "wooden" decorative artwork. See the museum photo compared to mine, everything is tightly connected. Widening the stern may not look good, given the sizes of Corel's gilded parts.
 
The primary issue with this kit is the mis-shaped stern, which I did manage to fix after the fact. Now that is an area you could easily circumvent during the initial stages.
 
As I went along, I was very self critical with certain failures, on my part, that could have been avoided had I also referred to other sources during early build stages. I've learned a lot since. The Corel is a nice kit, though it is the least accurate of the three available commercially. With much extra detail work it will produce an acceptable and beautiful build. All of my friends who know nothing about this ship think its perfect--funny, only we fanatics here at MSW, especially Vasa builders will be able to see the errors among the kits. I've droned on a bit too long (:-)
 
If you have any other questions, please post them. I'm very happy to assist in any way I can. And as I said, if your scroll through what I've criticized of my work, it will certainly be helpful for you to  avoid if you decide on the Corel.
 
MIchael

Now the Dumas... I'm glad I didn't start with this kit. It's die-crunched and the instructions need a little interpretation compared to Midwest but easy enough to figure out having built the previous boats.
 
Start with the keel & I've added the frames & sheers:
 

 
Then the chines:
 

The deed is done.
 

 
The square cherry for the straight sections. The colour is closer to the mahogany but will still provide some contrast.
 

 
A series of short pieces soaked for a short time and wrapped around the form.
 

 
The rest of the cherry will soak overnight.
 
Michael
 
 

Thank you all for the really positive comments it really means  great deal. and for all the likes.
 
The things that we are pleased with seem to be countered sometimes by those that we are not.
 
The fittings for the ropes through the bulwarks will be fine using copper.
 

 
The cap rail of the cockpit however is a different story, I am not happy with the way this has turned out. after sanding it to profile it was treated with Tung oil. the joints are way too obvious and the contrast is much greater than I anticipated. I will see what it looks like when the oil has dried but my guess is that I will still be disappointed. In that event I will sand it off and do it over using some slightly different steps.
 

 

 
The first thing will be to use solid material for the straight parts and re laminate some new corners. I think I will use either Maple Birch or Cherry, I will look at how each laminate up on the tight radius first.
 
Michael