Aussie048

​One step forward, two steps backward. Paying back time for my impatience comes again.
 
Today I started with cleaning of white panels, it goes well, and happy, cleaned my working table to make comfortable place for delicate working ...
 
And ... you can guess ... all my work with dead eyes goes to hell
 
At next pictures you can see why
 

 
Here is 3mm dead eye on position next to it`s own hole
 

 
And here is 4 mm dead eye also on position next to it`s own hole
 

 
Obviously, my idea to simulate real way they are connected under rail with wire and deck - simply - does not work, at least not in this way. Under rail construction is too wide, and demands hole to be expanded to 3mm, which is out of question. Holes are too close, and expanding all of them them easily can make rail, at least, ugly
 
So, in this scale, having in mind my earlier mistake ( not equal width of bulwark under rail), I will waive this solution, and make something like this
 

 
Why, dummy Nenad did not make some test before making this bunch of dead eyes? 
 
Blessing in disguise is that I have enough ( more than I need) new 4mm and 3 mm dead eyes already laser cut
Let`s go again, third time !!! 

Boys! Where are you? There is some workk to do here!
 

Our Hero hath spent the past few weeks deep in contemplation, but thought it be high-time he didst update this Redux. Verily, CaptainSteve has been able to take many hours in his ship-yard. But he hath also spent a goodly amount of time in naval navel-gazing.
 
“Arrr … “, he were heard to be a-grizzlin’ and a-moanin’.
“Workin’ under this ‘ere Cap’n Hull fellow doth mean-eth that I shall be needin’ to lift me game !!”, CaptainSteve didst grumble.
“With THIS guy, it’s practice, practice, practice. Drill, drill, drill. Day in, day out !!”, he were to be a-mumblin’.
 
“Seriously !! Whate’er happened to the days o’ ‘Measure Once, Cut-eth Thrice, Profane Profusely, Start-eth Over Anew ??’”
 
“Tragically,” Our Hero didst confess, “me first attempts be somewhat less than successful.”

 
Apparently, there be somewhat of a learning curve for CaptainSteve to overcome in terms o’ his carpentry skills. And so, most verily, he didst venture to the wood store, where-upon he were to purchase balsa blocks a-plenty. Our Hero were to be a-figurin’ that, as the fillers shall be over-planked later, it be a-matterin’ not what wood wouldst be use-ethed for them.
“Besides, this stuff be a heck o’ a lot easier to carve-eth into shape !!”
 
Thusly, he were to take-eth up his wood-axe and his tree-saw, and didst commence, yet again, to hack-eth out the various filler blocks.
 
Firstly, CaptainSteve were to turn-eth his attentions astern. As Our Hero didst declare-eth from the outset, he doth be plan-ething upon an 1812-ish appearance wi’ this build …
 
“For starters,” he were to explain-eth, gesticulating wildly whilst pointing at his MS plans, “this be a-meanin’ that me transom counter doth be require-ething curvature.”

 
The Counter didst prove-eth to be not so difficult, once Our Hero didst finally grasp-eth the concept o’ making templates …

 
The hole fer the rudder post doth remain-eth un-excavated, and o’course, CaptainSteve will be a-needin’ to curve the tops of the filler blocks to accommodate the curvature o’ his Counter.
 
“But,” he were to declare-eth, “I be-eth relatively happy wi’ this piece fer now …”
 

 
Moving onto the Stern Filler blocks, and this be where CaptainSteve didst make-eth many, many a trip to his Muse …
That ‘twould be, Our Hero were to acknowledge, the Man from Massachusetts.
“Verily, Tom,” he didst state-eth, “your pics be of untold value whilst I work-eth through me framing stages.”
 

 
Much cutting and trimming and sanding didst occur-eth, but upon checking with his template pieces one final time, CaptainSteve doest now be seriously contemplating a re-do o’ these two pieces …
 
“I be most sure,” he were to bemoan, “that I hath taken off too much wood again !!”

 
Next time couldst prove-eth most advantageous were Our Hero to actually employ-eth the templates he didst cut-teth.

 
Arrrrggg-geth !!!!
Continuing on, and Our Hero didst cast his gaze a-forward.
 

 
“Indeed-eth,” he were to declare, “I be most in favour of the whole rabbet concept and also o’ these ‘ere filler blocks.”
For, despite-eth this bein’ not his first build, he hath ne’er encountered this type o’ constructiveness in kits a-fore.

 
But still, further troubles didst lay ahead to thwart CaptainSteve’s galloping progress.
 
“I be a-readin’,” Our Hero were to mention, by way of explanation, “that ‘twouldst be easier to cut-eth the grooves for the bow framing into a veneer piece aforehand.“

 
Really, CaptainSteve … ??
So it had absolutely nothing whatsoe’er to do with you having sanded too much material from the top, thus making yet another re-do nigh-on inevitable ??

 
“Ahem … “, he didst splutter. “Well, that is, mayhaps I be planning on using some sawdust and PVA to fill the gaps just a tad.”

 
"And, this be where things stand as of the present."

 
Meanwhile, in an unrelated matter, a mysterious cloth bandage has been photographed in the vicinity o' CaptainSteve's stern area …

This just be a brief update fer now … jus’ to be proving that reports of my demise have been greatly exaggerated. Work has progressed in CaptainSteve’s shipyard o’er the past few weekends, despite him havin’ not a lot to show fer it.
 
First up, Our Hero has managed to finish his bow framing …

 
But it were to be upon turning his attentions stern-wards that CaptainSteve didst come-eth unstuck.
 
“Me main problem,” Our Hero were to begineth, “were in not bein’ able to visualize the filler blocks properly in all three dimensions.”
The first set which Our Hero were to be happy with didst verily look most good … but be totally unsuited to the stern o’ this ship.
 
“These were the MK II version … “ CaptainSteve didst mutter-eth under his breath, “in a long line o’ failures. Ye can see that I be takin' too much off where the red arrows be.”

 
Essentially, what he didst end-eth up doin’ were to be marking precisely where the rabbet line wouldst be-eth …. and thence Dremelling everything else into sawdust. Then didst follow some light sanding with ever-reducing grit sizes, until he were to be satisfied wi' the shape o' Connie's derriere.
 
"I be a-modelling this stage with a vision in mind ... clothed in a tight pair o' Levi Strauss jeans."
 
Finally, Our Hero didst push-eth his chair back from the work-bench, wipe-eth his brow, and declare-eth, “The MK XVII version ‘ere doth look to be keepers.”

Thank ye all fer the well-wishin's. I hope to finally be gettin' some work done on me Connie, for a change.
 
As fer work done thus far, the above be bringin’ ye all up-to-date with what CaptainSteve has actually accomplished. Plans have been afoot for sometime as to what he doth intend to do with the sternal region … but, thus far, nought hath been achieved – except fer many new additions to me bone-yard.
 
 
Indeedeth, George, Our Hero doth intend to use the kit supplied stern frames. He be intendin’ to be a-modifyin’ them to create an open (and viewable) area beneath.
“To go-eth from six frames up to seven (thusly allowing fer six windows),” he explained, “wouldst be-eth a most simple matter. It just be meanin’ that I be needin’ to make one additional copy of the central (larger) frame.”

 
But problems a-plenty didst plague CaptainSteve whence he were to try cut-ething out the body of the kit-frames.

 
Wi’ much wailin’ and gnashing of teeth, were Our Hero to discover the pieces be a-breaking up on him.

 
Essentially, what he be trying to achieve wouldst be to removeth the bulk of the material, to leaveth him something like in this sketch below.

 
Having spat-eth out his pacifier many a time, more work remains for Our Hero with regards these.
“Mayhaps,” he were heard to mutter, “after I hath picked up a Scroll Saw.”
 
When he doth, eventually, get these cut and sized, then CaptainSteve has plans for how he wouldst like to see the Captain’s quarters (and stern galleries) to be a-takin’ shape.
 
“It be nought but mere conjecturin’ at this point in time,” he postulated. “But, I wouldst like-eth ye to check out the work of a couple more muses which I has been following of late.”
 
First up, wouldst be Siggi52 with his HMS Dragon build. If you haven’t already seen this log, then do-eth yerself a favour and spend-eth an hour or two in amazement. Secondly be NenadM’s Cutty Sark build. Here, Nenad has actually shown Our Hero precisely how he can go about achieving the look that he wouldst wish-eth.
 
“I be a-figurin’’, he were to close, “on riding the coat-tails of these two fine gentlemen in order to have me stern quarters come-eth to life.”
More work doth remain …

Arrg-eth !!
CaptainSteve doest wish to apologize most sincerely to the assembled Horde fer his tardiness in posting an update o’ late, but he has been somewhat distracted with life.
“Well, firstly an’ foremost”, Our Hero began. “May I just be saying, thank ye very muchly fer your concern there, Nigel (an’ everyone else what has asked.)”
“In truth an’ most verily,” he didst attempt to explain-eth. “I be not a-wanting to bore the bejeezus out of those o’ ye who be only here fer the saw-dust with e’ery minute minutiae.”
 
Howe’er, he doth be slowly getting himself ship-shape and back into action with Connie.
“At least this girl cannae be unfriendin’ me on the FaceBook.com !!”, he were to mumble-eth into ‘is beard.
Ahem (cough cough) …
 
“Anyways, as noted, you lot be here fer the sawdust. So let’s get back to the ship modellin’.”
 
And so, whence last we left him, CaptainSteve had made some grandiose promises. The first of these matters which he didst wish to deal with, was to be lookin’ to a-strengthenin’ and a-re-inforcin’ his ‘ull.
 
O’er the past few weeks, CaptainSteve hath spent many a moment a-starin’ at his shapely rear end. “Err, that be Connie’s shapely rear end,” he didst state, by way o’ clarification.
 
Even though the better part o’ the past two years hath been devoted to learn-ething as much as he couldst about the real Connie, he didst give-eth narry a thought unto how those details may affect-eth the actual construction of his model !!
 
Verily, ne’er afore hath Our Hero added blockage to the POB kits what he has done-eth. “That be-eth true,” he were to say, “but I doth wish to do this build justice to ‘er name.”
 
Indeedeth, CaptainSteve didst draw inspiration from a goodly number o’ the wonderful builds here on MSW. Two of these would be by MrHollom and JesseLee.
 
And so, first up he didst spend-eth some time installing filler blocks to go betwixt the bulkheads.
"Here be pictures !!", was all Our Hero would say, in closing.

Don't sweat it, Mobbsie ... I usually model in a confused state-of-mind.

Arr …
Avast and ahoy, Maties. Thanks fer droppin’ by fer a look-see, and a big Thanks to those o’ Ye who have hit the Like button (apologies to those who thought it was the Exit button).
 
A belated Merry Christmas to Ye one an’ all, by the by !!
 
Well, it be bein’ way too long since Our Hero was last postin’. Howe’er, that doest not meaneth that he has been slacking off … entirely.
“In truth,” he didst declare-eth a tad somewhat too defensively, “I has been spending many a while staring at Connie’s shapely rear end and doing much thinkin’ and ponderin’.”
 
But not much else, Ay, CaptainSteve ??
“Err … that be,” he didst bluster. “I mean … mayhaps.”
 
Now, whence last we didst leave Our Hero, he were workin’ on the second version o’ his stern timbers.

 
“Problems didst occur-eth,” he muttered ‘neath his breath, “and modifications were of necessity.”
 
Now, for others who wouldst wish-eth to do as CaptainSteve be doing, and wouldst modify thine own Model Shipways kit such that stern windows are featured, Our Hero explains further:
“Essentially,” He were to begin-eth, by way o’ explanatory narrative, “I didst discard-eth the four kit-supplied frames, using just the back and the top o’ each frame piece. “

 
Thus, Our Hero were to use-eth the empty frame templates from the kit to sketch and create a set of seven open frame timbers, thusly allowing for the opening-up of the Gallery area, and for the framing o’ six windows.
 
“If Ye be examinin’ the four stern frame templates from the kit,” CaptainSteve continued, “then Ye shall be seein’ subtle variations atwixt them … “
 
“Essentially, FRAME1, the biggest from the kit, becomes my middle Timber #1 …

 
“... the FRAME2 template is duplicated to become Timber#2, and Timber#3 …

 
“… the FRAME3 template is duplicated to become Timber#4, and Timber#5 …

 
“… and lastly, the FRAME4 template is also duplicated to become Timber#6, and TIMBER#7.

Using this system, Our Hero thus numbers his frames as such: 7, 5, 3, 1, 2, 4, 6.
 
Once cut out, further modificationing were to prove-eth necessary. In particurly, the upper beam of each Frame Timber was extended, to allow for seating into the back of Bulkhead R. Additionally, a “footing” were to be formed for each timber, giving somewhere to affix the pieces to the transom.

Furthermore, groovin’s for cross-beams were marked and cut, allowing for support and frame strength.
 
Next he were to interdict, “I didst happen to read-eth somewhere in me travels o’ how the stern window frames on the USS Constitution were angled e’re so slightly in such a manner that shouldst an imaginary line be drawn upwards from each, all wouldst meet at a singular point at the very tip o’ the upper spanker boom.”
(Jeez, stop to take a breath every now and then, CaptainSteve !!)
 
Thusly, the footing o’ each frame piece has been angled e’er so slightly:Frames 2 and 3, by 3 degrees …

 
Frames 4 and 5, by 6 degrees …

 
Frames 6 and 7, by 9 degrees …

 
“If Ye doth squint,” he explained, “ye shall notice that the upper roof beams in the next few pictures be just a tad short in length …”

 
Hmm. ‘Twouldst appear-eth that yet another re-do be-eth featuring in CaptainSteve’s future …
 
“But, afore that,” CaptainSteve didst announce. “And afore I continue to stumble blindly for’ard, I doth have some final pics with me latest re-do of the stern timbers dry-fitted into position …”

 
Verily, the final product will look most different to the above pictures.
 
“Fer one thing,” Our Hero tried most helpfully to explain. ”There will be cross-timbers.”
And then, almost as an afterthought he declared, “And panelling … and doorways … and … and …”
 
But fer now, Our Hero jus' be wondering if he be on the right path at this time …

What-eth so ever couldst thou mean-eth, my Goodly Man ??

 
And where is this "Perth" of which ye doest speak ??
I thought Perth was in Scotland.
 
 
 
"Arr ... thank ye, Jay !!" said CaptainSteve, blushing most deeply.
 
But a-fore Our Hero be getting ahead o' his ownself with all this newly-acquired stardom, mayhaps some progress .. some proof-of-life wouldst be in order.
 
"Well ... erm ... ahh," he were seen to blather, blushing even deeper than beforehand. "That is, umm, well," Our Hero tried to explain.
"Y'see, most of what has been done has, erm, needed to be re-done. And re-re-done. Numerous times, even."
 
For now, CaptainSteve has been playing with his newest Proxxon toy (the Scroll Saw), and working on the scantlings for the Captain quarters and galleries.
(Look, George !! I finally got to use that word !!)
 
"I be working on a proper update fer ye, I doth promise," he were to a-vow.
 
"I be leavin' ye with this, as a teaser", he didst state, in closing.

That now brings us to the “tribulations” section o’ this series of postings …
 
“Arr !! Indeed-eth it does !!” noted CaptainSteve, forlornly. For, twouldst seem-eth that, upon final inspection, one o’ the stern timbers were to be out of alignment.”

 
Further, and far worse, whereby Our Hero didst e’er so lightly attempt to correct this piece, tragedy were to strike … and it didst break-eth !!!

“And it be a corner timber, as well !! Thusly, I beseech-eth, o’ Ye o' the Horde,” he were to implore-eth. “Wouldst I be able to re-attach the piece ??”
 
As of this past even-tide, CaptainSteve hath re-glued the broken timber upright …
“But,” he sighed, most heavily, “I be left a-wondering, will this be structurally sound ??”
 
Given that it is a corner upright, couldst he drill-eth a hole, and mayhaps use a small piece of wire – a piece from a staple, mayhaps – as an anchor, to re-affix-eth the errant timber upright ??

“Now, those wi’ a keen eye,” CaptainSteve were to continue, “may ha’ noticed above that there still be two o’ the stern timbers yet to be fitted.”
This be because, as previously mentioned, he doth plan on adding LED lights to this build.
 
These timbers have been drilled for the LEDs …

 
… and grooved to take-eth the wiring for same …

 
“A’ready,” Our Hero began-eth, “the wiring plug hath been fitted to me keel, and wiring stubs hath been brought inside.”

 
Unfortunately, that be close to the limits o’ CaptainSteve’s electrical know-how. Fortunately, he doth know-eth of a colleague much skilled in the (un)dark arts.
“As such,” he went-eth on, “I be leavin’ this update here for now. But a-fore we get into matters of Electrification, an anecdote …”
 
Indeed-eth, CaptainSteve doth recall-eth an incident from his own Youth, whereby he were to discover-eth for his ownself the basic principles o’ the process o’ Electrification.
 
“T’was Christmas time o’ that year”, he were to begin-eth. “And I be but ten years o’ age. Me brother, CaptainDennis (fer whom this ‘ere build be intended), were but 16 months younger ‘an me ownself.”
 
“Indeed-eth,” Our Hero were to explain, “he remain-eth so, to this very Day !!”
Ahem …
 
To cut a long an’ rambling story short, Our Hero and his brother had managed to con their beloved parents into a deal whereby these two schemers would receive the super-duper-all-extras-included-bestest-deal-on-the-planet-ever-Mum-and-Dad-honest-to-God-electric-race-car-track-set as a combined Xmas AND next birthday present for the both of them.
 
(Regular fans may wish to take-eth note o’ CaptainSteve’s choice o’ terminology here: specifically, "a combined ... present” and, " ... for the both of them".)
‘Scuse me ?? Betwixt two brothers, you say, CaptainSteve ??
Surely this could lead to nothing but co-operation and an out-pouring of filial love.
 
All were goodly up until the time whence we didst taketh to re-designing the track lay-out. Something went awry, and one car didst becometh stationary and most uncompetitive !!
 
Reasoning, even at this tender age, that there be no mains power, Our Hero decides to test the voltage … by applying his tongue across the metal bits of a section of track.
 
Crouched o’er the track and with his tongue in contact with the rails of the track, he signals to his beloved younger brother:
“Juth a wee bid, bruvva-deareth”, he were to utter.
 
“What ??” asked his beloved younger brother, as he plunged the plunger on the controller to its’ full-plungeable depth.
 
“GAAAAAAAAAAahhhhhhh !!” were CaptainSteve heard to reply-eth.

There hath been troubles, triumphs and tribulation a-plenty in CaptainSteve’s modellin’ room o’er these past few weeks ...
 
Now, despite being greatly enthused and inspired as he was by works of magnificence such as those from Doris … and Siggi … and so many, many others, CaptainSteve doth wish-eth to note that he hath always intended fer the stern quarters interior detailin’ to be viewed at “galloping horse” speeds.
 
“Or faster, if possible !!”, he were to interject.  
 
“Forsooth,” he were to open with. “I didst maketh plans and all …”

 
For, verily, from whence Our Hero didst first plan to display some sort of furniture in the Great Cabin region, he didst intend-eth plan to utilise the veneers of Tasmanian Blackwood for the interior panelling…

 
“It be a beautiful wood, don’t it ??” he enquired of the horde.
 
The problem, and the part that he forgot to be mentioning, is that it also be an extremely close-grained hardwood, thusly making it most difficult to work with …
“But it also be a right PITA to work-eth with, and prone to much splinterin’ and shatterin’ !!”, Our Hero were to declare-eth.
 
“Whilst I were not to keep many pictures o’ me failings,” he stammered weakly, by way of explanation, “I didst try to simulate the panelling with me Proxxon mill.”

 
Eventually, CaptainSteve did constructeth a board-room table from a small piece of the Blackwood …

 
CaptainSteve explains: “In the instance o’ the first, I be a-planning on adding false doors at the back of Bulkhead R …”

 
“… as well-eth, there wouldst be doors leading to each o’ the side galleries.”

 
“In addition, I didst also paint-eth some wall-paintings …”
If truth be known, Our Hero didst merely build-eth a frame, some 3mm square, and didst glue-eth such to a postage stamp. All that remained was a quick trim.

“Arr !!” he were to mumble, sheepishly. “I be found out. I didst think-eth that, at a ‘galloping horse viewing distance’ mayhaps no-one wouldst notice.”

 
Here be pictures ….

 
“Ye may note,” CaptainSteve noted, “that the lounge be just a piece of doll-house furniture which I were to ha’ a-layin’ about the place.”

 
Our Hero intends to be a-leavin’ the doors sittin’ ajar …
“It be the better fer allowing me lighting to be visible through the side gallery windows.”

 
As a final touch, he didst make-eth up a pair of map scrolls …
“These, I be just sitting lazily upon me Blackwood Captain's table,” he explained.

 
“By the by … “, CaptainSteve were to cry-eth out !! “I didst modify the angle o’ me window frames e’er so slightly.”
 
Upon checking the pictures in AOTS more closely, Our Hero didst find-eth that the angles of the window frames are, more accurately: 3.50, 70 and 10.50. As such, new templates were cut from scrap card pieces.

“In truth,” he were to explain-eth, pointing to the above picture, “I didst decideth to go instead with angles of 40, 80 and 120.”
 
CaptainSteve be thinkin’ that these settings be more aesthetically pleasing …
 
What say-eth the Horde ??

They do make disks for the sanders in "standard" (for some value of "standard") sizes with come with sticky back on them.   I use them not just for my disk sander but also when making sanding sticks, etc.  Here in the States I get them at the local hardware/lumber/home improvement store but I have seen them online.   A variety of grits and types of grit seem to be available for reasonable money.

Hi Michael!
 
I just received the same Proxxon TG125 last week, but I have yet to fire it up.  I ordered mine through Amazon (needed it quickly for a project that ended up falling through...oh well, finally got a sander), and got some additional sanding disks at the same time.  I found a pack of some random brand of 5" discs with adhesive backing - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JX4LJT0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
These are pretty cheap ($12 for 50 discs in assorted grits), but I haven't been able to test the quality yet.

hello friends!
i just boat the Disc sander TG 125/E
and i can say that tool is from the category : "Must have"
a very good quality there is degrees guide and the table also can move with degrees guide (beside the ruler !)
i just want to ask if some one has this tool and if he know about alternative for sandpapers Because for that tool you need a spacial sand paper that cam with sticker 
best regards!
Michael.

Thanks Popeye. I do like making those small parts and am finding that scratch building them can be very rewarding.
 
I have finished up the spar deck, except for the adding the ships wheels which I will wait a little longer to do. I added shot holders around some of the gratings and added shot, but for this deck I spaced them out more in the rack. I happen to be reading TFFM Vol2 and saw that the English Swan class had a fixed block on the planksheer in the open waist for the fore sheet. This got me thinking that the Constitution plans show a fixed block in the bulwarks for the fore sheet, but I don't have bulwarks there because of the open waist. So, I am going to add a fixed block on the planksheer so that the fore sheet will look right coming back to the large cleat I put on the planksheer for it. Now I just have to figure out what it should look like.
 
In the mean time I have started making the channels, now that I know their sizes. I started by cutting the rough rectangles out of 3/32" basswood sheet, leaving enough on them to cut in any curves needed to get them to fit to the hull. I then fit each one to the hull, using manila folder material as a template for the fore channels, since they curve more than the others. The main channels didn't need much curving and the mizzen channels I just sanded until they fit. I then cut each one to width duplicating the outside edge to the same curve as the inside curve.
 
I then had to taper the undersides so that they came to 1/16" at the outside edge. I could have done this by hand and it probably would have been OK, but I have this new thickness sander just waiting to be used. So, I first had to make a jig to hold the channels at an angle so I could run them through the sander. I came up with this simple arrangement, which is just a 1/32" strip along one edge and a higher fence on the other side. The channels ride against the fence and sit on top of the 1/32" strip.
 

 
I ran them through the sander using the jig after iterating on the first one until I had the 1/16" edge.
 

 
Here is a completed one in the jig
 

 
OK, now that they were tapered I needed to cut the notches into the outside edges for the deadeye strops. After some experimentation on how I was going to strop the deadeyes (more on that in a future post) I came up with the size of the slots. Now, how was I going to hold the channels while milling. I didn't want to lay them flat on the XY table because I didn't want the mill bit contacting the metal table. I thought to hold them upright in a vice and use the mill bit to cut the slot that way, but then I just happened to see this recent post from Frank.
 
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/13125-dunbrody-irish-famine-ship-by-mahuna-148-sectional-model/page-13#entry418554
 
Now I knew how to do this right. I took a piece of plywood and bolted it to the XY table, then screwed a fence to the table that was parallel to the X axis. I held the channel against the fence and cut each slot with the bit down into the plywood slightly. I then cleaned up the slots with a small square file.
 

 

 

 
I have the fore and main channels milled and will do the mizzen channels tonight. Then I will use a smaller bit to mill the slots for the eyebolts on the channels that have chains attached to them. More on these later too.
 

Hi Capt.
 
simple little gadget....
two laundry pegs , backs glued together, and inner legs cut off...
 
Nils
 

 
 
 

Build log part 35
 
Update
 
Starting with the 8 mm high railing of and around the promenade deck.....
 
the railing is a very fragile piece of equipment. I start with the portion which requires the most attention. In opposite to the forecastle deck railing this long railing will be glued on in sections to the base rail, instead of soldering it. I`ll ty and fit a handrail afterwards, in order to stabilize it better
 
Nils
 

 
The two rectangular (unplanked) patches take up the nav-light cabinets
 
 

 
the stern anchor rests on a special place aft / midships
 
 

 
before cutting the railing lengths to fit, I made some templates.......
 
 

 
the railings are from chemical etched copper, 0,5 mm thick, in scale 1:150 (also suits my scale 1:144 well)
 
 
 
 

Many thanks mmdd, and Greg (the pegleg sailor)
 
mmdd,
from this stage onwards its getting a bit more ambitious.....
 
Greg,
there are no stanchion posts and no holes in the deck (too fragile in this scale).
the railings are glued to the base L-profile around the edge of the deck, please refer to enclosed scetch
 
Nils
 
 

 
 

Al.
 
Check the home DIY stores like Lowe's and Home Depot.   I, personally opted for the 18" long bed as I have need for this saw to be dual purpose... home stuff and ship stuff.  I also started online using their websites and scrutinized the reviews carefully.   Some reviews will blast it and some will praise the product but one needs to read deeper and see the "why?".  For example, I was looking at a bandsaw and the one with great reviews wouldn't handle the wood thickness I wanted to cut.  So it's a matter of perspective.

Hi Matt,
I wouldn't sweat the fairing on this model too much. The MS Constitution is only my second build, so I'm hardly an expert, but I found that there wasn't really that much fairing required, certainly not when compared to my MS Armed Virginia Sloop which is a much smaller model. I think it's because the model is so large that the majority of the bulkheads through the central portion of the hull need minimal attention. I agree that the plywood bulkheads are a nightmare to sand. They were solid basswood on the AVS and were very nice to work with.
 
I haven't built a kit by another manufacturer yet, so I can't legitimately comment on the quality of MS kits when compared to others, but from what I gather reading many different build logs is that none of them is perfect. I have a Mamoli kit waiting in the wings, so I'm looking forward to finding out how building it compares.
 
David

What has left is the “key” of the shackle.
You might find your way to represent that “key” but following the above method, you have to consider at least the diameter of the holes of the shackles. It’s rather rare to find something to look like nail…3-4 mm long and with less than 0,50 mm in diameter.
 
Thankfully I recalled a tip from another mate some years before.
For those who are not familiar with the inner of a pc, the processor has one of its surfaces full of pins. What I did, is to set up a small fire in my backyard and take the last offer of an Athlon processor….
Then I collected many and ready for use “keys” for my shackles.
For those who will follow the same tip, you will find that many of those pins come out with some lead on their head. Don’t panic. Just keep them with a tweezers over a lighter's flame…

 
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That’s all mates. I hope at least I have inspired you and I’m sorry if you get tired with the use of English language... 
 
Many thanks

Next stage is to give a general “U” shape to those metal pieces.
-So by the use of a rounded nose plier on the edge of a surface (I suggest a wooden one), push each piece to bend it. Be aware, not to exert pressure at the edge of each piece but on the not flattened part of it. Because of the flattening and the hole, the edge has been weakened and you might ruin it. That’s why I mentioned “on the edge of a surface”.
 
-It’s also important to bend them symmetrical so that the edges be equal to each other.
 
-At this stage, when you have “U” shaped them all…you must align the holes on each metal piece by both axis.  

 
Finally, we come to the last stage.
Take every “U” shaped metal piece and place it under that modified hinge and in specific, between the pivot and a wooden pad. Then with a round nose plier exert pressure on the metal piece at the same time at both sides of the hinge. One or two passes will give you that “Ω” shape-the result you want. No need to mention, practice always leads to improvement…

Ok, let’s set a Shackles producing line….
You may choose your way for each of the following stages but I’m showing what I do…
 
-Take a piece of paper and draw two lines at the total length that a shackle should has to be, depending on the scale you work. I work at 1:24-1:26 scale so I found suitable the 8-9 mm length.
Place the wire between those lines and cut as many pieces you want to transform into shackles. In the photo is shown those ear piercing nails I use and incidentally the lines of the page are printed in 8mm space. !
-Take the heavy duty pliers and place each end of those pieces between its jaws, up to the line of the masking tape. Exert pressure and you will have a flat part on each end of the wire. Try to create those flat ends at the same level, although it will be a correction, later in the process.
Remember, the tape was placed at 2mm on the flat space, so it helps you not to measure every time how much part of the wire should be flattened.

 
When you finished with the flattening, it’s time to use the haemostatic pliers.
Take each piece of the wire and place each of the flattened parts between the jaws of the h. pliers under the 0,50 hole you have made.
Then with your rotary drill, and through that hole, try NOT to make a hole but a scratch mark on the flattened surface of the wire. You might have some holes (as in photo) on some of the pieces but this is not the aim at this stage. There is only one hole in the nose of the h. pliers, so if you try to make a hole in the wire by force, you probably will need a drill bit, for every hole you open…You can finish the job later over a wooden pad by the help of the scratch marks.

 
At this stage and if you like, you can round a bit the edges by the use of a thin file.

 
 

Before you start you need to make some modifications, as below.
 
a.Take the haemostatic pliers and if it’s necessary trim down (about to 4mm/ 0.15748 ‘’) one part of its nose. Then, making first a scratch mark on the surface of the same part, make a hole at 0.50 mm. You might need some drill bits here…

 
b.Take the part of the hinge and modify it as in photo. Namely, remove the pivot cut off the inner support and bring down the other support so that the pivot can be as close to the main part of the hinge.

 
c.Take the heavy duty pliers and place pieces of masking tape on both parts of its nose, leaving a flat space about 2mm/ 0.0787402’’.

 
That’s all for now mates, thank you and stay tuned…