Aussie048

I rebuilt the pinnace cradle to allow for removal of grates with the pinnace in place.

 

 
Here is a sequence of making the large cleats and then the small cleats per a previous request to show.
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Here are the small cleats.

 

 

 
Now back to adding the rest of the cleats and then onto the eyebolts and paint touch up.
 
 

Thank you both for your kind compliments; and yes having the right tools make a great difference. This is why I really like the precision of the Sherline lathe cutting these tiny details.  
 
I finally glued the spar decking in place using the cross beams through the gunports and wedges for tight fitting and allowed the assembly to set overnight. I then located the deck structures with their locating pins and drilled needed holes into the deck. I will next address the various items to be attached to the ceiling walls using locating pins. Thus the deck structures will not be glued in place for now so that holes can be drilled without their interference.
 
Here are pictures of the structures just set in place for now just to get a feel for how they will look.
 

 

 

 

 

 
One detail I am trying to sort out is the 1/32" raised deck area shown on the plans, but is not seen on the photos of the restored ship. It is a deck doubler extending from the companionway aft of the main mast to the mizzen mast fife rail.   Any advice or knowledge on this detail is welcomed on which would be correct for what period?

Hi again folks.  
 
Well I just couldn't live with the incorrect location of the studding sail booms (aft of the yard rather than forward as shown in photo 1), so I attempted to fix the location of the studding booms on the fore lower yard.  I decided the best way was to try and fix it in-situ, as completely unrigging it would have been problematic. This brought about another complication in that it would be impossible to lash/bend the inboard ends of the boom as they were very close to the mast and quite difficult to get at.  Having experimented a little, I found the best way was to actually use thin CA on the inboard lashings to hold them in shape.  I then used a little acetone to weaken the bond on the yard.  I am not sure what the long term effects of this process will be on the scale rope, but I am hopeful.  This was the only way I could find to ensure the lashing held its shape while I rotated them.
 
I decided to cut/snip the end cap iron and was then able to slide the studding boom out, but unfortunately, not without braking the solder joints on the mid-yard arm irons.  As you can see from the photos, the lashings held their shape very well when I rotated them forward.  I then rotated the mid-yard arm iron forward also, rest the studding boom and held it in place with a soft peg while I resoldered the the mid-yard arm joints.  I then used a third hand (from GRS) to hold the end iron in place and resoldered them also.  This process was only possible due to using a resistance soldering unit which gave me total control over the placement and level of heat.
 
Overall a satisfactory result, but I will need to clean-up and stain the yards again as the acetone wrecked the finish - this was unavoidable but an acceptable result.
 
The part one photos show the start of the process, through to the reinstall of the boom.  The same process was carried out for both sides.  Photo 1 shows the incorrectly positioned studding sail boom;  photo 2 shows the end cap iron cut ready for the removal process (sorry a little out of focus); and photo 3 shows the repositioned boom held temporarily in place for soldering the mid-yard iron.
 
     
 
cheers
 
Pat

Part 2 - sorry some of the photos are not that well focused in the earlier post.  In the following you can see the new solder joints, and the finished results for the port side also.  Unfortunately it was impossible to get any shots of the actual soldering operations.
 
Photo 4 (first in this post) shows the third-hand setup which was raised by using solid wood blocks, photo 4 shows the new soldered joints (mid-yard and end-cap are visible (before cleanup and repaint) and photo 5 shows the port side boom completed.
 
     
 
cheers
 
Pat

All "glass" on place ( every passage, central gathering area, restorant roof ...) glasses visualy conect all modules of elementary school in one object
 
Model is almost finished. Boy who had to do laser cutting, forgot to put on machine table with gym roof and 50 decorative trees ... I hope he wil do it tomorrow

Step forward. Details
 
Only allowed material is card panels and Iuvidur 1mm thick
 
Wood of any kind is not allowed
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Happy Fourth of July to All!
 
Back to ship pictures for skylight rail details. I formed a circle to size using 1/32" brass rod and then cut 3/32" long 1/16" tubes and fitted on the rail and fitted the circle ends within one tube and soldered. Then six 1/32" stanchions with mating flanges soldered in place. The deck flanges were cut and will be glued in place to conform to the deck crown once the deck is glued down to the hull. Here is a sequence of pictures. Pardon my misspelling of stanchions in photos. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
I decided to use a piece of stainless steel for the base plate; the painted brass one just did not look right. Now to add rails and cannon ball holders to hatch components and grates.

Thanks Nenad, Steve, Al, Geoff, and David, and the folks who hit the like button. I feel bad for not having an update in a while, but I haven't been home much and when there I have had to deal with other things. But, I am back in the shop for a bit this week so I was able to make some progress.
 
I have been working on the process of stropping the deadeyes and attaching them to the hull with the chains and plates. I wanted to go through the whole process with one channel to make sure it was going to work before totally committing to it. So, I started with the port fore channel to see how this would work. I first stropped the large and medium deadeyes I would need for this channel. I tried first using a copper wire, but it was too soft and I didn't like how easily it bent. So I went back to the 24 gauge black steel wire that I have used many times before. I first wrapped the wire completely around the deadeye, but with a small piece of brass strip where the two wire ends crossed. The strip was to make a small space so that I could slip the end of the chain between the wire and the deadeye later.
 

  I then cut the two wire ends at the same place, making a loop with a small space under it. I tried soldering the ends together at this point, but I could really only get the soldering iron on one end of the wire which didn't heat up the other end, so the solder joint was pretty lousy. Also, the soldering iron was scorching the deadeye. A little scorch would have been OK since I was painting them black later, but it was too much. I thought of trying silver soldering but I was really afraid of setting them on fire! I settled with just a tiny drop of medium CA glue that I applied right at the joint. It actually flowed nicely into the joint like a good solder would and the bond seems very strong. I could have also added more glue to glue the deadeyes to the strops, but I wanted to be able to rotate the deadeyes in the strops to get the holes to line up correctly later. I used the alligator clip to hold the deadeye by the sides when I glued them, which forced the two ends of the wire together.       I then painted the deadeyes and strops black. One thing I found with this method was to make sure the holes in the deadeyes were lined up correctly with the joint because after painting them I could not easily rotate the deadeyes in the strops. I had to take a couple of them apart to get the holes right after painting, but now I make sure the holes are lined up correctly before painting. I blackened some chains and plates, some rings, and some nails that I had that will fit through the holes in the chains and plates, after I opened then up a bit with a #72 drill bit in a pin vice. I drilled out the holes while the chains and plates were still on the brass etched plates, so they were easy to hold. i also made up some eyebolts with rings, which are used in place of nails at the ends of some of the chains.   To attach the stropped deadeyes to the channels, I first marked the line that the chains make on the hull with some masking tape, to try to get them to line up nicely. I also added a dowel for the fore mast and marked on it where the ends of the fore shrouds would be and tied a piece of line at that height. I then slid a chain down through each hole in the channel, set the end at the masking tape and used tweezers to hold it at the top of the channel. I then carefully removed the chain and bent it 90 degrees at the tweezers, pushed this bent end through the gap in a deadeye strop and bent it the rest of the way back onto itself, covering the joint in the strop. I used the same procedure for the rings that are attached with chains.     I was then able to slid the chains back into the channels, pull them down so the strop was at the channel, and drill a hole into the hull, again using the string on the mast to get the right angle for the chain. I added a plate to a nail or ringbolt, cut off the excess length of the nail, pushed it through the hole on the end of the chain and into the hole in the hull. I put a small drop of medium CA on the nail shaft before pushing it all the way into the hole. Before the glue dried, I positioned the plate to be in line with the chain, then after the glue dried I drilled another hole in the hull for a nail through the bottom hole of the plate. Here is how they came out.           There was a little collateral damage during the process, like having to reattach the first gun port lid in the pictures, but nothing major. I still need to touch up the black paint on the nail heads and a couple of other areas. There are also a couple of extra holes that need to be filled where I didn't have thing lined up quite right.   I glued the fore main and mizzen channels to the hull last night, so they will be rigged next.  
 
 

Hi All,
 
I hope all is well at your end of the world.  It's been a fair while since my last post but, I finally got the model out of dry dock and spent some time working on the Trimming Channels. I didn't like the way Artensania did their bit with the Trimming Channels so I've done it my way.  Instead of gluing the Trimming Channels straight onto the side of the rubbing strakes, I re-manufactured the Trimming Channels with tabs that fit into slots that I cut into the side of the model and I'm really happy with the result so far..... However, right now I'm losing the plot as I'm trying to upload some photos but there are internet issues with my e-mail carrier that are preventing me from doing so..... Grrrrrrr.....  So, as soon as they get them fixed, I'll post a couple of photos.  In the mean time, I'll post this for now and get back to you soon.  Have a great day and happy modelling.
 
Rowan D.

Thanks Gerhard,
 
sure, its a tricky area in place where there is only the thin promenade deck to fasten the stachions.
But that will have to wail until the deck housings are done.
Made a few more raw doors and windows today and some light-vents stb / port of the foremost housing walls (only dry fitted, finaly mounted later on
 
Nils)
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Thank you Denis.
 
in the moment I`m checking the hights between the decks in relation to the scale. Here some (airline 1:144) figurines come very handy
 
Nils
 
 

 
need some strong support for rilling the row of holes for 4 vent tubes later on
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
maybe the deckhousing walls are still a bit too high, but I also have to consider the deck curvature
 
 

Thank you very much Mark, Rob and Geoff.
for your kind comments,
 
and all the "likes" for looking in....
 
Nils

well, heres what I found at the local ACE and HD. They ARE made foe electrical use but the price is right and you can solder stuff to these. You can even make third hand units by soldering them to each end of a heavy piece of copper wire and put it in your little bench vise.   Bill in Idaho

Zoltan,
 
I seriously doubt those are made for this hobby.  I've seen them for years in electronics stores, etc.  A lot of times they're used with mulitmeters to clip the probes to the electrical connection being tested.   You might also check with any electrical shops in your area and see if they carry them.

thank you very much Piet,
 
have now painted the long railing and mounted the aft cabin (removeable per screws).....
 
Nils
 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

 
 

Kinda spendy at MicroMark considering its usually about $9 to ship plus the cost of the clips. Alligator clips should be found in any hardware store even Home Despot in the electrical section. Just checked online and they're $2.19 for a six pac or somethin like that. Bill

Sweet work on the stack, Ken.  And another great tutorial.

Jon here is an example why a lathe comes in handy. The kit smokestack was a POS casting with the mold being squeezed too much and formed an oval versus a round part aside from the rough porous surface it had. 
 
I started with a piece of 1/2" diameter bar stock and turned a new stack out of brass faster than it would take to cleanup the POS casting. Again I went to the images of the real ship and added the spark arrestor as well.
 
Here is a sequence of pictures explaining what I did to make it. 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Now back to other parts.

Thanks Popeye and John.  Managed to fix one of the yards (stunsail booms but not the other yet ).  Thanks for the compliment John, coming from you it is much appreciated.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Will advise You beforehand to make cuts with a knife along the edges of the groove, I am confident that the groove will turn out beautiful.

What I never liked is one an endmill dulls out it is not easy to properly sharpen it wihout sending it out.  At work we alway used carbide when we could get it and the guys in charge cried about the cost.  But the stuf we worked with would dull a bit very fast.  They finally gave in when the material started smoking and stinking up the entire shop.  Polyethelene and HSSS steel do not play nice with each other.
David B

Just thought I'd share a little lesson I learned this week.
 
My milling machine and all of the related tools were bought as used equipment - in the neighborhood of 15 years old when I got them.  The end mills all seem to cut metal OK, but cause a lot of tear-out in wood.  I thought this was normal, until I had to buy a new end mill of a size I needed and didn't have.  The difference in cut is amazing, so I think the old end mill must be dulled by years of use.
 
Here's a cut using an old cutter.
 

 
And here's a cut with the new cutter.
 

 
Lesson learned - use a sharp end mill for cutting wood.

I practiced on a small piece of pear in different mills. The result has very much pleased me and my colleagues!

Thanks Mark, Per and Dave; and all for the likes.  It was a quiet BD but just what you need as the good doctor says above.
 
That's the two most complex yards in place now so hopefully the others will not take as long.
 
cheers
 
Pat

Pikers, that beauty is worth at least a keg. Gorgeous workmanship there, Dan. Slainte. :cheers: :cheers: