Pirate adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from mtaylor in USF Confederacy by ChrisLBren - FINISHED - 3/16 Scale
Great work. Looking forward to Renommee!
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Pirate adam got a reaction from mtaylor in Le Fleuron 1729 by rekon54 - 1:24
I am always blown away by the "on board" views. Amazing!
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Pirate adam got a reaction from EricWilliamMarshall in Referance Library (Modeling)
I also agree with the zu Mondfeld book. It is the book that got me into the hobby after building some simple kits. I also really like The Art of Ship Modeling by Bernard Frolich.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from ErRains in Referance Library (Modeling)
I also agree with the zu Mondfeld book. It is the book that got me into the hobby after building some simple kits. I also really like The Art of Ship Modeling by Bernard Frolich.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Canute in Referance Library (Modeling)
I also agree with the zu Mondfeld book. It is the book that got me into the hobby after building some simple kits. I also really like The Art of Ship Modeling by Bernard Frolich.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from alde in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
Now things will slow down with the posts, as I assemble the frames. I have completed all of the lettered frames as well as the cant frames.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from alde in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
Next I cut out all of the frame timbers with the scroll saw. Here are the ones corresponding to the numbered frames.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from alde in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
Next step was building some fixtures to properly attach the keel to the building board. I used moveable fixtures to hold the stem and the stern post. This makes everything removable and should allow me to readily re-use the building board once I cut my Alfred model from its upside down Harold Hahn-style building board.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from alde in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
The next step was assembling the keel. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of the process. Trust me it is done and here it is. I cut the slots in the deadwood using a sled on a Proxxon table saw.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from alde in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
I drilled 2 holes in the building board, and then glued in place some short sections of brass rod to help hold the keel in place during construction.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from alde in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
Here I have attached the partially shaped hawse pieces to the first cant frame.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Ron Burns in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
Here I have finished shaping the hawse pieces using a combination of a drum sanding attachment in a Dremel tool and hand sanding. There is some additional fairing to be done to the cant frame once it is attached to the keel with the other frames. I didn't want to mess it up for now.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Canute in Ancre Publications
I have bought several books from the website. The books are very high quality and in my experience arrive quickly despite being shipped from France.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from mtaylor in Ancre Publications
I have bought several books from the website. The books are very high quality and in my experience arrive quickly despite being shipped from France.
Adam
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Pirate adam got a reaction from alde in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
Here I have finished shaping the hawse pieces using a combination of a drum sanding attachment in a Dremel tool and hand sanding. There is some additional fairing to be done to the cant frame once it is attached to the keel with the other frames. I didn't want to mess it up for now.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from Ron Burns in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
I am using brass wire for the drift bolts. I though about leaving these out, but I am pretty happy I didn't. I am going to leave them natural brass color. This is the back side of the frame, as the drawing is still attached to the front. The color should pop a bit more as the pear wood darkens over time.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from russ in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
Now things will slow down with the posts, as I assemble the frames. I have completed all of the lettered frames as well as the cant frames.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from russ in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
Next I cut out all of the frame timbers with the scroll saw. Here are the ones corresponding to the numbered frames.
-
Pirate adam got a reaction from russ in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
Next step was building some fixtures to properly attach the keel to the building board. I used moveable fixtures to hold the stem and the stern post. This makes everything removable and should allow me to readily re-use the building board once I cut my Alfred model from its upside down Harold Hahn-style building board.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from alde in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
Here is the keel mounted on the build board with the brass pins for alignment.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from russ in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
The next step was assembling the keel. Unfortunately I didn't take any pictures of the process. Trust me it is done and here it is. I cut the slots in the deadwood using a sled on a Proxxon table saw.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from daHeld in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
I drilled 2 holes in the building board, and then glued in place some short sections of brass rod to help hold the keel in place during construction.
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Pirate adam got a reaction from alde in Washington 1777 by Pirate adam - 1:48 scale - Galley - POF
First step was constructing the building board. The building board was inspired by the one in Ed Tosti's Naiad build log and books. I used melamine coated MDF for the board. Two slots were cut into the board and two parallel sections of T-track were screwed in place level with the top of the board. I also attached some bracing to the back of the board with scrap lumber to add some stiffness and make it easier to pick up.
I drew a centerline down the middle of the board and attached the framing drawing to the board with spray adhesive.
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