UdoK

Hi All,
The shipyard has finally applied the deck planks to the decks.
I did my best to work out a layout similar to that in the AOTS, with some minor changes to accommodate the materials and my capabilities. I found it challenging to get all the planks tapered and touching together, taking into account each plank width and the width of the deck(even width planks was the aim). Some small gaps if one looks carefully, however once above deck fit-out and rigging is applied, maybe get lost ?
 
Short break then onto ? hatches and hinges.
 
Cheers
Dave R.

My build continues on the Morgan. I enhanced the ponce wheel jig to make the copper plates. I took a strip of wood and lined it with very thin strips a quarter inch apart. These strips are just a hair thicker than the copper tape. I then played two more thin strips on top of the two previously glued down. Except, I pushed them closer together so there is a slight overhang such that the copper tape will slide between the bottom two and under the top two. I then laid some more thin cross strips that I could trace the vertical ponce lines. I put these just under 3/4" apart and the others are line up guides. I start by running the ponce wheel along one side of the entire horizontal strip. Then, as I pull the copper strip through the jig, I make the vertical lines. I keep repeating the process until done. I only put one horizontal line because the strips will overlap slightly as they are being applied to the hull.
 
I've taken some pics of the hull completion. I also added the 1/8 X 1/8" waterway and sanded the top inside edge down. This will eventually taper into the ceiling planks. 
 
I have included pictures of the copper plate jig and ponce for making the plates. Of interest, I purchased chemicals to put a black, red, rust and patina affect on the copper. I did like the way some of them turned out but in the end, I used Acrylic pain with a make-up rubber do-hickey that my wife uses to apply her make-up (I think!). I would dip the soft rubber sponge thing into the paint, tap it a few times then dap it onto the copper plates. I had much more control of the coloring this way. If you recall, I posted a while back that I like the way the copper plates look on the Model Shipways box cover. So, I came close to that but added a patina look and while they are not the most realistic ... I like it and that's what counts!!! :-)   
 
Oh, while I was making the copper plates, I would constantly wipe with alcohol. Then, after the plates were painted I sprayed a clear matte finish onto them. This way, when I applied them to the hull, my prints wouldn't get on them. After they were all applied, I sprayed them again. I suspect they will continue to age as I've read on this site. So, we'll see what happens!
 
Here are some pics:
 

I turned my attention to the stove. Due to the restricted headroom it was difficult to fit it under the fore deck. So as part of final assembly I reduced the lengths of the legs such there was only 2mm clearance between the stove bottom and the brick base. I also reduced the height of the fittings on the still. 
 

 
A down side was that the stove now sits low against the drip try by about 0.5mm. It is not immediately obvious so I will leave it as is.
 

 
The stove now slid under the fore deck easily.
 
To fix it in place I put super glue on the underside of the base. To avoid getting glue on the adjacent grating as the stove slide in I laid in a strip of polythene which I was able to pull clear once the stove was in the correct position. The flue was glued in place through the fore deck.
 
I also added the deck beam under the rear edge of the fore deck. Of course the deck supports the beam rather than the other way round. This has got rid of the ripple effect in the deck. As can be seen in the next photo the beam protrudes beyond the deck in places so needs some final dressing. Sadly with the beam in place the still is now completely invisible.  
 

 

Hi Al,
you're definitely on the right track, edge gluing of the Planks is strongly recommended as it gives a lot of strenght to the hull and planking.

Proof of life... it ain't dead yet...
 
The main wale needs sanding as does the next stake down (up in the photo) but I'll hold off until I get more strakes done towards the keel.
 
Planking on the "gun port stripe" (such that it is) is done.   I'm still sanding and need to finish opening all the ports and get them shaped.
 
The bottom photo shows in blue what will be ebony..
 

Thank you Nils.
 
Window framing completed and I made some good progress on the hull fairing last weekend.
 
 

Well on the 13th month anniversary of the start of the build the final full frame has been installed.
 
Ben

Foremast

20 midship frames are cut (which makes it 50% of overall frames!):

 

 
Looks ship-alike!

 
Starting from the midship ones because other frames are much more complex, I can get some skill and experience on an easier midship ones.
 
Overall build status:

(the frames I currently have installed on a model would be replaced by the newly produced - they are made out of different wood, more yellow-ish)
 
Next step is nasty, and I am trying to push it down the road - sanding the face of every frame on a sanding board. Produces lots of dust, takes around 20 min per frame..
So will switch to the keel instead, then simulate the iron bolts with monofilament, then...

Been keen to get started on the deck planking, get something done.
I am not able to do real fiddly work, as my left hand is in a splint(from cutting my thumb).
 
At the shipyard, "ochre" red has been applied inside of the gunwales and some of the mid planking about the Main Partner is in place. I reckon the partner(where the mast penetrates the deck) stands out quiet nicely.
Plenty of planks to cut, some to shape, keep me busy for a while.
 
 
Dave R

Thank you Nils.
 
Window framing completed and I made some good progress on the hull fairing last weekend.
 
 

Thank you Nils.
 
Window framing completed and I made some good progress on the hull fairing last weekend.
 
 

Thank you Nils.
 
Window framing completed and I made some good progress on the hull fairing last weekend.
 
 

I have spend some spare time on the Bounty,
 
All the Frames are installed now, followed by the Transom wing.
I think it will be better to start fairing the hull before moving on to the transom parts to prevent damage as the parts are very fragile.
So, next is to copy the Body lines from the planes and prepare some templates for the sanding party.
 
 
 
 

Thank you Nils.
 
Window framing completed and I made some good progress on the hull fairing last weekend.
 
 

Thank you Nils.
 
Window framing completed and I made some good progress on the hull fairing last weekend.
 
 

Work at the shipyard has been somewhat slow.
 
Before going ahead with decking and other components I stepped the 3 masts - mainly to set the mast partners on the deck.
 
I made 3 partners for where the masts go through the deck.
Turned down each mast to required diameter.
Fore     8mm dia
Main     9mm dia
Mizzen 6.5mm dia (should of been 6mm by my calculations but seems so small)
 
Each mast goes through a mid collar on the lower deck and down to rest on the keel, the partner and collar allowed to set the rake and plumb sideways of each of the 3 masts.
 
So onto the decking next.
 
 
Dave R

Hi all, waiting time is over, it continues...
 
Although hull fairing has not been completed yet I have started to fit the transom parts to have a break from sanding.
 
To complete the hull fairing  a few more "low" spots on the Frames require attention. I will cut some left over material from Frame building to be cut to the Frame width, run it trough the thickness sander for approx. thickness and sand it to the hull shape after glueing.
 
 
 
 

Hi all, waiting time is over, it continues...
 
Although hull fairing has not been completed yet I have started to fit the transom parts to have a break from sanding.
 
To complete the hull fairing  a few more "low" spots on the Frames require attention. I will cut some left over material from Frame building to be cut to the Frame width, run it trough the thickness sander for approx. thickness and sand it to the hull shape after glueing.
 
 
 
 

Hi all, waiting time is over, it continues...
 
Although hull fairing has not been completed yet I have started to fit the transom parts to have a break from sanding.
 
To complete the hull fairing  a few more "low" spots on the Frames require attention. I will cut some left over material from Frame building to be cut to the Frame width, run it trough the thickness sander for approx. thickness and sand it to the hull shape after glueing.
 
 
 
 

I have spend some spare time on the Bounty,
 
All the Frames are installed now, followed by the Transom wing.
I think it will be better to start fairing the hull before moving on to the transom parts to prevent damage as the parts are very fragile.
So, next is to copy the Body lines from the planes and prepare some templates for the sanding party.
 
 
 
 

Hi all,
the last half Frames are roughly shaped and dry fitted to the hull structure.
 
Next is to adjust and glue them before moving on to the transom parts.
 
I wish a happy Easter weekend to all of you!
 
 

Hi all, waiting time is over, it continues...
 
Although hull fairing has not been completed yet I have started to fit the transom parts to have a break from sanding.
 
To complete the hull fairing  a few more "low" spots on the Frames require attention. I will cut some left over material from Frame building to be cut to the Frame width, run it trough the thickness sander for approx. thickness and sand it to the hull shape after glueing.
 
 
 
 

Hi all, waiting time is over, it continues...
 
Although hull fairing has not been completed yet I have started to fit the transom parts to have a break from sanding.
 
To complete the hull fairing  a few more "low" spots on the Frames require attention. I will cut some left over material from Frame building to be cut to the Frame width, run it trough the thickness sander for approx. thickness and sand it to the hull shape after glueing.
 
 
 
 

First bit of planking is done with Swiss Pear.   Just the counter so far.  I've hung the stern post and rudder blank for position and to make sure I made the hole right.
 
There will be a bit of ebony trim over the exposed yellowheart after the rest of the planking goes one.  And "above" the counter and below the lights I'll be putting in the shaped trim strip after the rest of the stern has been planked.
 
All in all, I'm pretty pleased.