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Glenn-UK

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  1. Glenn-UK
    My pleasure, not sure it's a master class it's just detailing the methods which work for me.
  2. Glenn-UK
    Mizzen Mast Shrouds Our new granddaughter Betsy Beau Constance finally arrived early on Monday morning which this meant there was no time in the shipyard as my wife and I had to look after one of the other grandkids for a couple of days. Returning to the shipyard this morning I started work on adding the shrouds to the mizzen mast, The first task was to add the burton pendants. There is one pendant per side required. There are 3 shroud line pairs per side required for the lower mizzen mast and these were added to the mizzen mast. The position of each shroud pair was carefully adjusted as they were installed. A jig is used to set the position of the deadeyes in the shrouds. With the jig in position a deadeye can be added to the first shroud. You will note there is a hole in the top of the jig which is there to aid the process. The purpose of the hole in the jig is to help set the position for the start of the seizing, as can be seen int he next photo. With the deadeyes added to the first shroud pair the lanyards were added. The jig seems to be working a treat as the shroud deadeyes look to be set to the same height.
  3. Glenn-UK
    You are making great progress and great workmanship.
  4. Glenn-UK
    Great work.
  5. Glenn-UK
    The manual comes in English as standard. The ,build manual is also downloadable as from the web site vanguardmodels.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/Flirt-Construction-Manual.pdf
  6. Glenn-UK
    Using the refined method outlined in my last post has resulted, in my opinion, a set of shroud deadeyes which are fairly well aligned with each other. A little bit of tweaking will be possible when the lanyards are tied off around their respective shrouds. I also have found that my refined method is much easier and quicker to use, compared with some of my previous methods. I am also happy with the how the chainplates and links follow the same path as their respective shrouds.
  7. Glenn-UK
    Main Mast Shrouds Our new granddaughter has decided she is quite happy where she is no rush to come out of the womb to meet her parents or brothers, etc. This means I have been able to spend a bit more time in the shipyard so I was able to started to add the deadeyes to the main mast shrouds. I was using a jig to set the deadeyes to the same height but as I added the lanyards I was not happy with the alignment. It may not be that evident when looking at the photo below but the deadeye on the left hand side (arrowed) is much lower than the other two deadeyes. The middle one is also a bit to high. I ended up removing all the deadeyes (and seizing thread) and starting again, refining my working method, so I could (hopefully) get a more consistent result. The refined method is detailed below as so far is yielding much better results. Step 1 - Position the shroud in the jig and apply a known amount of tension With the jig in place the shroud was positioned. Two pins were added to the bottom of the jig to aid the alignment. The line is held in place using reverse action tweezers. This should ensure the same amount of tension is applied to the shroud in readiness for the seizing. Step 2 - Ensure the seizing starts at the same point for each shroud Next a length of seizing thread was feed through the shroud line, whilst the line was held under tension. This should mean the seizing is set to the same height for each shroud. Step 3 - Create the loop, ready for the deadeye With the seizing thread in position the shroud could be held in the quad hands so a loop could be formed. Step 4 - Add the seizing With the shroud held in the quad hands it was a simple job to apply the seizing to the loop. Step 5 - Add the deadeye After a touch of ca glue was added to the seizing the excess seizing thread was trimmed. Next a deadeye was added and the loop could be closed up by pulling the free end of the shroud. Step 6 - Check the alignment The final task was to add the lanyards and to then check the overall alignment. So far the refined method seems to be working much better. Once the lanyards were added it was possible to look at the alignment. It is looking much better.
  8. Glenn-UK
    Main Lower Mast Construction Completed As my wife and I are still waiting for the birth of our newest granddaughter I have been able to spend a bit more time in the shipyard. The banding was added to the square section of the mast. I also added the banding to the the mizzen mast. I then added the deadeye to the main mast. The next job was to add the burton pendants. As can be seen in the next photo(s) I also added a hole ready for the pinning the lower main mast yard. With the burton pendants in place I then add the shroud lines to the main mast. In the photo below the shrouds are looped around the chain plates to get an impression of how they will look when rigged. The shrouds are nicely positioned around the main mast above the platform.
  9. Glenn-UK
    Many thanks, I am pleased with the build so far.
  10. Glenn-UK
    Thanks, there is still quite a few more months work left. I will be happy when she is finished also
  11. Glenn-UK
    Main and Mizzen Mast Construction Over the last few days I have been constructing the main and mizzen lower masts. I still have to add some blocks / thimbles to these masts. There is some banding to add to the square sections of these masts. With the imminent birth of our 6th grandchild I am not sure when I can complete this work as my wife and I are on standby for baby sitting duties. A photo of the three lower masts is shown below Now a photo of the main and mizzen masts The main mast is shown in the next photo. The blocks have been added to the bottom of the main platform, as can be seen in the next photo The mizzen mast is shown in the next photo. And finally a photo of the mizzen mast platform.
  12. Glenn-UK
    Channels. Main and Mizzen Mast After a few days work I have completed adding the deadeyes, links and chainplates. The design of these parts made it reasonable easy to fit. I have taken a few pictures. It was a little bit fiddly to fit the two links and chain plates fitted with the aft most channel. Ideally they required a much shorter link so the chainplate can be secured to the hull above the gun port. I did experiment with making shorter links but opted to use the kit supplied parts. It is not pretty but once fully rigged I don't think it will not be that noticeable and is something I can live with. I then moved to building the platforms, starting with the main mast platform. I plan to follow the same approach for the main and mizzen mast that I used when constructing the foremast whereby I joined square stock material with the mast dowel material. Therefore I cut a suitable length of 8mm square walnut material and then made a check that this would fit through the platform's square hole. The same work was also carried for the mizzen mast platform and a check that the 6mm square section would fit.
  13. Glenn-UK
    She is a beast.
  14. Glenn-UK
    The Next Phase After due consideration I have decided that the next phase of my build will be to add the remaining channels to the hull and to then construct the main and mizzen masts so the associated shrouds and ratlines can be rigged. This will take a few weeks to complete. Before starting work in that respect I did touch up the figurehead and then I did a trial fit along with the bowsprit. Looking at the next photo perhaps the beard on the top lip needs a bit more work I have now added the remaining channels and knees to the hull. In readiness for adding the deadeyes to the channels the various deadeye strops were placed in their respective slots. Some of these PE parts still require to be blackened before the deadeyes, chain plates and links can be added. The captain has fallen over (alseep on duty?) in the next photo.
  15. Glenn-UK
    I'll be spoit for choice for my next project
  16. Glenn-UK
    Many thanks for all the kind comments and likes on my build log
  17. Glenn-UK
    Figurehead It is clear I lack the skills of a true artist together with poor close up vision and an unsteady hand but the figurehead has been painted to the best of my ability. I will redo the skin tones on the arms and legs
  18. Glenn-UK
    Spritsail Yard For the last few days I have been working on building the spritsail yard. It was an interesting element to construct and I am happy with the end result. The process I followed was as follows. Starting with a suitable length of dowel the tapers were applied. The central section is a hexadecagon, i.e. a 16 sided polygon. Using a simple jig to hold the dowel in place I was able to file and create the 16 flat edges required for the hexadecagon. Next I marked and drilled the holes required for the eyebolts and footrope stirrups. A hole was also drilled for the pin that would help secure the spritsail yard to the bowsprit. After the eyebolts and footrope stirrups had been blacked they were added to the spritsail yard along with the various cleats. The spritsail yard was then painted black. Next the various blocks and thimbles were seized and secured to the spritsail yard. You may note in the attached pictures that I did forget to add two blocks, which are located at either end of the spritsail yard. The final task was to add the footropes. The two outer footrope loops could have been more even with each other for a better symmetrical look. However once all the rigging has been added I do not think it will be that noticeable. I now have to decide what task to tackle next. My intention was to add the bowsprit to the Indy and the foremast stays and then continue with the adding the fore topmast and fore topgallant mast. On the other hand I might move on to constructing and installing the both main and mizzen channels and then adding the masts and their associated shrouds and ratlines. I also need to paint and fit the figurehead.
  19. Glenn-UK
    Many thanks.
  20. Glenn-UK
    Bowsprit Blocks and Deadeyes I have been unable too spend much time in the ship yard over the last few days however I have managed to add the various blocks and deadeyes. There are two blocks fitted to one side of the bowsprit. Before these were fitted I did check the 0.5mm black thread could be threaded through the block holes. In the next photo I have added an open heart block and 5mm deadeye assemble, a double 3mm block assembly. I have also started to add the final open heart block and the three remaining 5mm deadeyes are ready to be added. The following three photos were taken after the final three deadeyes were added. To complete the task I just needed to glue the bee's and end cap in place and also to double check that the fit of the spritsail yard. As you'll note I have drilled the holes in the end cap ready for the 11 off eyebolts which I will add during the rigging process. The dolphin striker also need to be added but I'll wait until the bowsprit is ready to be added to the Indy.
  21. Glenn-UK
    Bowsprit Topmast It has been a hectic few days with family staying and spent all my free time with the grandkids so no work in the shipyard. Peace and normality has returned to our household this morning although the peace will be shattered once again at the weekend when the grandkids return for a quick overnight visit. I was able to return to the shipyard this morning and decided that I should make the bowsprit topmast. I think it is important to make sure it will fit through the bowsprit end cap before the end cap is glued to the bowsprit. Starting with a length of 6mm dowel I reduced the diameter down until I could pass the end cap down to the required position. This was accomplished using my Proxxon mini lathe. Once I was happy I reduced the diameter of the end section so the PE part would fit over. Next I used a sharp blade to create the next section which is conical shaped. I was pleased with the work so far. The next task was to add a octagonal section. Using a simple jig which holds the dowel in place I was able to make a reasonable job of the octagonal section. After the first flat was filed I rotated the dowel through 90 degrees and then filed the next flat edge. Once I had repeated this two more times the dowel was then rotated through 45 degrees for the next flat edge. After three more 90 degree rotations the task was complete. It was then time for a dry fit check with the bowsprit and everything seems to match the plan sheet. I will need to shape the top and bottom edge of the edge cap, as indicated by the blue arrow. All that was left to do is to create an octangle section of the other end of the dowel. Using the same method as detailed above it was a simple task to complete. I did use a scrap piece of planking material, cut to the required width of the octagonal flat edges as a guide during the filing process. I also made the flying jib this morning and was very pleased with the dry test fit, as shown below. There is still plenty of work required to complete the bowsprit assembly, such as adding the various blocks to the bowsprit, making the spritsail yard, etc.
  22. Glenn-UK
    Thanks. I did make a jig to hold the dowel in place as I created the 3 flat edges. Have a great Christmas.
  23. Glenn-UK
    Bowsprit Endcap Musings I have started work on making the bowsprit. The dowel has been cut to the right length +10mm spare. The end of the bowsprit requires shaping for the bees and end cap. Using an offcut of the dowel material I made a bowsprit test piece. The bee sits perfectly on the top flatten section. The side sides which were also flattened are nice and even along the length. The end section required an oval shape for the end cap. Finally the required 25 degrees cut to the end was made. I am reasonably happy with the end result. After a bit of filing and sanding the end cap was a good fit, and could be set to the required angle. With the end cap test fitted and set to the required angle some filler would be required to fill the gaps, as can be seen below. This is not a problem as this area will be painted black. I also made a test end section piece which was a good tight fit in the end cap. In order to set the end cap at the required angle the hole requires tapering. This is what I have done on my previous models. If I do taper the end cap slot then the holes for positioning the dolphin striker could be comprised. With regards to the Indy build I am more inclined toward making the smaller oval shape and using filler as necessary. Before making a final decision on the way forward I will make a test bowsprit topmast piece so I can check it can be passed through the upper hole in the end cap.
  24. Glenn-UK
    Many thanks. It is my first model without shroud distortion, taking it very slow and steady was the key. I know what you mean about inking and I do like the look of the natural thread ratlines, so I might not ink. Having built a few models I am pleased that my modelling skills are slowly improving,
  25. Glenn-UK
    Lower Foremast Shrouds Completed After a few days work I have finally completed adding the ratlines to the lower foremast shrouds. There were a total of 588 clove hitch knots required to complete the task and I am pleased with the end result. They are not perfect but they are a marked improvement compared with my previous builds. I am now contemplating what I should tackle next. I am currently leaning toward constructing the bowsprit. The natural thread used for the ratlines will be coated with black Indian ink, but I will probably wait until all the ratlines have been added before I do this. I have included a few pictures of the decks.

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