Glenn-UK

Thanks Glenn (USA) from Glenn (UK)

The instructions were easy to understand and implement. Many thanks.

Thanks Kevin I am just summing up the courage to start with the second planking. Glenn (UK)

Second Plank Position for Main Wale Following on my my last post regarding the position of the main wale I have made a test fit of the plank after adding a series of dots to indicate the planks position.

Outer Bulwark Patterns and Lower Stern Counter With the outer bulwark patterns clamped in place I drew a pencil line along the bottom edge. I then removed the outer bulwark patterns and brushed Titebond III to the hull, using the pencil line as a guide. Each pattern was glued and clamped to the hull in turn. I did consider following Kevin’s lead and using boxwood to plank the lower stern counter. However, as I do plan to paint the upper section of the hull and noted the stern counter would be painted black. Based on this I decided to add the kit supplied outer lower stern counter pattern. I brushed Titebond III to the inner lower stern counter pattern and then outer pattern was carefully aligned, using pins to line up through the holes. A series of clamps were then used to hold the pattern is place. Turning my attention to the start of the second planking the requirement is to add the first and second planks, one after the other, directly underneath the outer pear bulwarks. When I test fitted the first plank I noted that the natural run meant it would not sit flush with the underside of the bow outer bulwark pattern. I noted this was also the case with the prototype when looking through Jim’s and Kevin’s build log and the photos in the build manual. With regards to the second planking one key plank must be fitted as a guide for the main wale, when it is added. A series of dots need to be added to indicate where this plank needs to be laid. The position of these dots is taken from measurement from plan sheet 6. Once the dots have been added a plank will then be added along the underside of those marks. This plank should also align with the top of the prow when fitted correctly.

Hello Kevin Great work on your boxwood planking. I am about to start mine today and I have a couple of questions. Did you use ca or wood glue for the second planking? I noted in the build manual that Jim used Titebond wood glue for all second planking on the prototype. I am not how to get the second layer of planks to stay in contact with the hull as the glue starts to cure and grip without using pins. My current thinking, once I am happy the plank is ready to be added, is to apply some ca to the hull and to spray the planks with an activator before fitting. Did you use any lateral plank bends when adding the planks around the bow area? I noted you thought you started to taper to early. My initial thought will be to plank downward until I need to start to taper and then to divide the hull into bands for the the rest of the planking. I did find adding Chuck's lateral bending method to the planks on my first planking paid dividends around the bow area. Keep up the good work and informative build log. Thanks Glenn (UK)

Preparation Work For Second Planking Following on from my last post the lower stern counter pattern was soaked in hot water for 30 minutes and then clamped to my plastic 2 pint measuring jug so the required bend could be applied. Once the pattern had been left for over 12 hours the stern counter pattern was glued in place. The outer patterns were glued and clamped to the stern post and whilst the glue was curing the prow and two keel patterns were then glued to the hull assembly. Once the stern post assembly glue had been given time set it was glued to hull. There are outer patterns to be fitted to the prow and keel. I brushed glue to the prow and keel and then, using the alignment pegs, the outer patterns were added. You can never use to many clamps. With the clamps removed the Indy is now ready for the next phase of the build process which will be the start of the second planking The first task for the second planking is to add the outer bulwark patterns (bow and stern). I have dry fitted the parts to check the fit and alignment. Everything looks good so when I next return to the shipyard I will glue outer bulwark patterns to the hull. I noted that Kevin used boxwood to plank the lower stern counter pattern rather than using the kit supplied pear pattern. I might follow suit.

Many thanks.

Many thanks James

Preparation Work – Stern Area I have now sanded the hull (1st planking) to a nice smooth finish. Before moving on to adding the 2nd planking there is a bit of preparation work such as fitting the lower stern counter. The first task was to glue the tiller bulkhead in place. Next the rudder casing top canopy part was dry fitted. As the rear face did extend past the stern frames it was necessary to sand it flush. I made a carboard template of the poop deck and when test fitted the back edge did not extend past the stern frame so there was no need to sand the back edge of the actual poop deck pattern. Next it was time to start to assemble the quarter galleries. The first task was to glue the two quarter gallery stool spacers. Before the quarter gallery upper and lower stool patterns can be fitted it is necessary to bevel so they are flush fitting with the quarter gallery base pattern. After checking the fit after adding a bevel the quarter gallery upper and lower stool patterns were glued in place. The back of the stern frame patterns has been sanded to follow the required curve. I did manage to damage the top of the right side bulwark pattern and I had to made and fit a new part. I had to use some wood filler to fill some of the gaps along the joint line. The inner upper stern counter pattern was then positioned. As per the build manual instructions the pattern was set to be approx. 2mm above the top of the bulwarks. The quarter gallery assemblies were clamped to the hull (no glue) and it was necessary to make some minor adjustments to the position of the inner stern pattern assembly. Next the middle stern counter pattern was added. In the photo below I have used some clamps to hold the pattern in place, but this pattern will be pinned in place before the position of the lower stern counter pattern is finalised. Before the lower stern pattern position can be finalised it does need to be soaked in hot water for around 30 minutes and then bent to follow the curve of the stern frames. In the picture below I have done a pre-bend test fit to get an idea of what the completed stern counter assembly would look like.

Your second planking looks good. I have found lateral bending and planking in bands takes a lot more time and effort but the end results justify the means.

Thank you, I will have to excercise greater care and be prepared to take much more time when I start to add the boxwood planking. I will keep an eye on @Kevin 2nd planking progress as he is the current pathfinder for this model.

Thank you

Thanks

Sorry to hear about your Mum. Your second planking to progressing nicely.

First Planking –Completed I have made good progress over the last few days and finally completed the first planking this morning. This is, without doubt, my best attempt at adding the first planking layer to a model boat. It is by no means perfect but I think it will provide a good solid base for the second planking layer. I think using Chuck’s lateral bending method for fitting planks around the bow area really paid dividends for this build when I added the planks in the first planking band. I wish I had the patience and commitment to continue with adding the planks in banks, with lateral bends. However after fitting the garboard plank I decided to continue to plank upward from the keel. In doing so I did master the skill of adding half stealers which is something I had not done before. I have added a few photo’s of the completed planking for your viewing pleasure.

Thanks Jeff

First Planking – Left Side Completed After a few day work I have completed the first planking on the left-hand side. I decided to abandon the planking in bands and continued to plank upward. I now have a few days more work to complete the right-hand side. I have attached a few photos. I am really pleased with how this has turned out.

Looking forward to watching your progress with the 2nd planking.

First Planking – Adding Stealers Previously when fitting a stealer I would ignore the general rule that planks never be tapered by more than half of their width and would simply taper to a point. As I continue on my model building journey I decided that I should try improve my skills with regards to fitting stealers. The next planks to be fitted at both the bow and stern required half stealers. Once I had determined the start point for the stealer and selected a suitable planking off cut the half stealer plank was tapered. It was then a case of using the stealer as a template to make the required cut out in the adjacent full plank to be fitted. The join between the stealer and full plank was checked and once I was happy both planks were glued in place. This is a little bit more time consuming than a simple “tapered to a point” type stealers but does look much better The blue arrows indicate the half stealers. You will also note, when looking at the photos below, that I made a couple of mistakes elsewhere with the bow and stern section and which required some small filler planks to be added. Thankfully these errors will be covered up with the second planking layer.

Thanks Gus

First Planking – Planking Garboard Yesterday I had to attend to a plumbing issue as the water in our kitchen sink disposal unit was not draining away. After removing the unit and cleaning it there still seemed to an issue with the water drainage, so I ended up buying and fitting a new unit. I was therefore unable to spend much time in the shipyard. Having completed planking under the stern counter area today I decided to add the garboard plank. I was very pleased with how the first three planks looked around the bow area. The stern area is only being planking up to the dead area which avoid the need to taper the keel. I am working with an inverted Indy which is resting on two spacers to stop the bulwarks resting on the work bench. I am using pins to secure the planks to the various bulkheads However I am also using clamps to ensure the plank edges are aligned which should reduce the amount of sanding required.

Thanks Allan I do normally work on shaping a few planks at a time. But as you say this is a hobby so I'm in no rush at the moment.

Agreed

Many thanks and I have certainly found it much easier working aft - forward. Glenn-UK