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Glenn-UK

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  1. Glenn-UK
    Bowsprit Blocks and Deadeyes I have been unable too spend much time in the ship yard over the last few days however I have managed to add the various blocks and deadeyes. There are two blocks fitted to one side of the bowsprit. Before these were fitted I did check the 0.5mm black thread could be threaded through the block holes. In the next photo I have added an open heart block and 5mm deadeye assemble, a double 3mm block assembly. I have also started to add the final open heart block and the three remaining 5mm deadeyes are ready to be added. The following three photos were taken after the final three deadeyes were added. To complete the task I just needed to glue the bee's and end cap in place and also to double check that the fit of the spritsail yard. As you'll note I have drilled the holes in the end cap ready for the 11 off eyebolts which I will add during the rigging process. The dolphin striker also need to be added but I'll wait until the bowsprit is ready to be added to the Indy.
  2. Glenn-UK
    Bowsprit Topmast It has been a hectic few days with family staying and spent all my free time with the grandkids so no work in the shipyard. Peace and normality has returned to our household this morning although the peace will be shattered once again at the weekend when the grandkids return for a quick overnight visit. I was able to return to the shipyard this morning and decided that I should make the bowsprit topmast. I think it is important to make sure it will fit through the bowsprit end cap before the end cap is glued to the bowsprit. Starting with a length of 6mm dowel I reduced the diameter down until I could pass the end cap down to the required position. This was accomplished using my Proxxon mini lathe. Once I was happy I reduced the diameter of the end section so the PE part would fit over. Next I used a sharp blade to create the next section which is conical shaped. I was pleased with the work so far. The next task was to add a octagonal section. Using a simple jig which holds the dowel in place I was able to make a reasonable job of the octagonal section. After the first flat was filed I rotated the dowel through 90 degrees and then filed the next flat edge. Once I had repeated this two more times the dowel was then rotated through 45 degrees for the next flat edge. After three more 90 degree rotations the task was complete. It was then time for a dry fit check with the bowsprit and everything seems to match the plan sheet. I will need to shape the top and bottom edge of the edge cap, as indicated by the blue arrow. All that was left to do is to create an octangle section of the other end of the dowel. Using the same method as detailed above it was a simple task to complete. I did use a scrap piece of planking material, cut to the required width of the octagonal flat edges as a guide during the filing process. I also made the flying jib this morning and was very pleased with the dry test fit, as shown below. There is still plenty of work required to complete the bowsprit assembly, such as adding the various blocks to the bowsprit, making the spritsail yard, etc.
  3. Glenn-UK
    Thanks. I did make a jig to hold the dowel in place as I created the 3 flat edges. Have a great Christmas.
  4. Glenn-UK
    Bowsprit Endcap Musings I have started work on making the bowsprit. The dowel has been cut to the right length +10mm spare. The end of the bowsprit requires shaping for the bees and end cap. Using an offcut of the dowel material I made a bowsprit test piece. The bee sits perfectly on the top flatten section. The side sides which were also flattened are nice and even along the length. The end section required an oval shape for the end cap. Finally the required 25 degrees cut to the end was made. I am reasonably happy with the end result. After a bit of filing and sanding the end cap was a good fit, and could be set to the required angle. With the end cap test fitted and set to the required angle some filler would be required to fill the gaps, as can be seen below. This is not a problem as this area will be painted black. I also made a test end section piece which was a good tight fit in the end cap. In order to set the end cap at the required angle the hole requires tapering. This is what I have done on my previous models. If I do taper the end cap slot then the holes for positioning the dolphin striker could be comprised. With regards to the Indy build I am more inclined toward making the smaller oval shape and using filler as necessary. Before making a final decision on the way forward I will make a test bowsprit topmast piece so I can check it can be passed through the upper hole in the end cap.
  5. Glenn-UK
    Many thanks. It is my first model without shroud distortion, taking it very slow and steady was the key. I know what you mean about inking and I do like the look of the natural thread ratlines, so I might not ink. Having built a few models I am pleased that my modelling skills are slowly improving,
  6. Glenn-UK
    Lower Foremast Shrouds Completed After a few days work I have finally completed adding the ratlines to the lower foremast shrouds. There were a total of 588 clove hitch knots required to complete the task and I am pleased with the end result. They are not perfect but they are a marked improvement compared with my previous builds. I am now contemplating what I should tackle next. I am currently leaning toward constructing the bowsprit. The natural thread used for the ratlines will be coated with black Indian ink, but I will probably wait until all the ratlines have been added before I do this. I have included a few pictures of the decks.
  7. Glenn-UK
    Great progress, you'll soon be finishing the Indy.
  8. Glenn-UK
    Ratline Video's I have added two video to YouTube showing me adding some ratlines to the foremast shroud. I did record two videos, each taken from a different view point, in an attempt to keep the back of hands obscuring the view, but it was not always possible. Links to the two videos: Ratline Video 1 Ratline Video 2 As a general rule the I cut a length of thread that is approx. twice the width of the shroud for the ratline. The thread is then pulled through a block of beeswax a few times. I then use a hairdryer on the thread which helps the beeswax to flow. As each clove hitch knot is created I check the position with the template. Once I am happy I brush on some diluted wood glue to the knot and ratline
  9. Glenn-UK
    Ratline Video's I have added two video to YouTube showing me adding some ratlines to the foremast shroud. I recorded two videos, each taken from a different view point, in an attempt to keep the back of hands obscuring the view, but it was not always possible. Links to the two videos: Ratline Video 1 Ratline Video 2 As a general rule the I cut a length of thread that is approx. twice the width of the shroud for the ratline. The thread is then pulled through a block of beeswax a few times. I then use a hairdryer on the thread which helps the beeswax to flow. As each clove hitch knot is created I check the position with the template. Once I am happy I brush on some diluted wood glue to the knot and ratline .
  10. Glenn-UK
    Lower Foremast Shroud Progress Is Slow I am different to many of modellers as I actually like adding the ratlines. I find the repetitive nature of tying hundreds of clove hitch knots can be very therapeutic at times. Today I completed every 7th ratline on the left-hand side. These are the ratlines that are connected to each shroud line. Next I added a ratline to every 5th position as I find this helps to maintain the shroud shape. Also to help keep the shape I have also completed the first 5 ratlines at the bottom, as can be seen in the photo below. With regards to the pencil markings on the template the X's indicate every 5th ratline and the O's indicate the central ratline between each 5th pair. I also like to add a complete set of 5 ratlines near the top as this also helps to keep the shrouds line running true. The next photo shows the mid section of the shroud with some of the completed 5th (X) ratlines. I have now started to add the middle ratlines, as can be seen with ratline 7, marked with an O. In the past I have rushed through adding ratlines but I am taking much more time with this build and I can already see the benefit. I should have the left-hand shroud completed in the next couple of days. I then have to do it all again on the right-hand side.
  11. Glenn-UK
    Hello Dan In the past I have used a very small micro drill around the edges of a glued in part which normally enables me to release CA glued in parts. Once the part have been removed a bit of diluted filler can be used as necessary before the new part is fitted. Glenn-UK
  12. Glenn-UK
    Foremast Lower Shroud Ratlines - WIP I have started adding the ratlines to the foremast lower shroud. I started by printing out a template. Every 7th ratline is tied to every shroud line and all the remaining ratlines only tied to the leading 8 shroud lines. I indicated the full length ratline positions on the template using bold text. When adding the template I trimmed the top edge so it could positioned under the shrouds up to the bottom of the crosstrees. I started by adding the ratlines on lines 1, 10 20 30. I also added the one on ratline 35. Next I added the ratline for line 2 as this is one which needs to be carefully positioned with the shroud seizing's. The next photo shows the ratlines on lines 1,2 and 10. The 10th ratline looks to be out of position but this is not actually the case and is due to the position of the camera. By moving the camera for the next photo it can be seen that ratline 10 is correctly positioned but ratline 20 looked to be misaligned which is not the case. Ratlines 30 and 35.
  13. Glenn-UK
    Looks great
  14. Glenn-UK
    Foremast Shroud Work Continues I tied off the lanyards on the lefthand side this morning and then added a temporary thread which will be used to indicate the lower edge of the first shroud sizing. This also means I have left a bit of room to add the lowest ratline. Once the lower shroud seizing's were completed the lowest ratline was added. As can be seen in the photo below I also tied a thread around the first shroud to indicate the position of the lower edge for the next shroud sizing. You will also note that the first two shroud deadeyes (left hand side) have rotated anti clockwise and are now slightly misaligned. I will try to rotate them back to the correct position without removing the lanyards, but I suspect I will have to remove the lanyards to rotate the deadeyes. Of course I could just leave them as is.
  15. Glenn-UK
    Foremast Lower Shrouds I have continued with my work adding the lower fore shrouds and the deadeyes have now been added. The seizing still needs to be completed. I have done my best to get the shroud deadeyes to the same level and for the most part I am happy with how the shrouds are looking in that respect. There is a bit of room for adjusting the deadeye positions by adjusting the lanyards. My progress has been slow as I have been taking my time with positioning each of the shroud deadeyes. The method I have been using has yielded much better results compared with some of my previous builds.
  16. Glenn-UK
    I have not try fitting them as yet, but will have a look once I've finished with the initial fitting of the foremast lower shrouds.
  17. Glenn-UK
    Loving your work and attention to detail, beautiful work, as always.
  18. Glenn-UK
    Always good to reach this milestone, excellent work.
  19. Glenn-UK
    Foremast Lower Shrouds - Take 2 Following on my last post, where I had an issue aligning the shroud deadeyes, I did some experimentation this morning. Using the method I had previously outlined I did find it difficult to ensure the loop seizing was added to the same point. With previous builds, once the deadeye has been seized in the loop, the shroud deadeye height could always be adjusted by moving the loop seizing. This is not an ideal method but it did seem to work reasonable well. This method did not seem to work to well with the Indy, possibly due to using larger threads for the shrouds. I thought there must be a better /easier method. After a little bit of thought I devised a modified jig, as shown in the picture below. By adding an additional pin (blue arrow) above the shroud deadeye the shroud line can be fed into the jig. A bit of tension is applied to the line by clipping on a pair of my reverse action tweezers. I have a vague recollection that another member MSW passed a loop seizing through the shroud line. I thought this would be worth a try. Using a sewing needle I was able to feed the seizing thread through the shroud line, thus ensuring the seizing point was fixed in place. It was then a simple task to complete the seizing. Once I had added the deadeyes to the first shroud pair I did an alignment test with some lanyards. I am much happier with the end result compared with yesterday effort. Tomorrow I will continue to add the deadeyes and, fingers crossed, the new method will yield a more consistent end product.
  20. Glenn-UK
    Starting work on the fore shrouds After due consideration I decided to start with rigging the lower fore shrouds. Based on a bit of research I thought a spacing of 25mm would be an acceptable distance between the deadeyes. As a rule of thumb it seems this distance is normally 3 to 5 times the diameter of the deadeye. I made a simple jig to set the required distance between the deadeyes. With the jig in place a shroud line is wrapped around the deadeye. The loop was then seized. With the seizing completed the deadeye was correctly positioned in the shroud loop and the loop was tightened around the deadeye, using the jig to double check the spacing was correct. The following is another photo showing the jig in position. With the loop in place I added a temporary thread to hold the shroud end in place. These will be properly seized once all the shrouds have been added as I have a plan to ensure all the seizing's are level with each other. With the first shroud pair in place I added the lanyards, noting these will be redone as I plan to get rid of the fluffy edges. Once the lanyards were properly adjusted the phrase "Houston we have a problem" seemed appropriate. Thankfully It is not a major issue as I can easily redo the right-hand shroud, as the left-hand side lanyard spacing is set to the required distance.
  21. Glenn-UK
    Many thanks for your advice @chris watton. I am currently tending toward adding the shrouds before the foreyard. The deck area, after looking at the belying requirements, seems to have a bit more room compared to the smaller models I've built. The one aspect I am not totally clear on is where the jeer line is belayed after it passed through the bitt hole (blue arrow). Either it should be wrapped around the bitt (top yellow arrow) or around the bitt rack (lower yellow arrow). The position of the belaying pins on the rack makes either option awkward. The photo I took last year (HMS Trincomalee) does not really help me.
  22. Glenn-UK
    Decision Time My initial thought process was to add the foreyard to the foremast before the shrouds are rigged. The reasoning for this was for easy of access with regards to the foreyard central rigging (truss pendants, sling, jeers and lifts). With that in mind, after constructing the foremast, I built the foreyard which is now ready for installation. I am now reconsidering my strategy as this requires the end cap to be in place so the foreyard sling and lifts can be added and rigged. However I prefer to make the shrouds off boat and then drop them in place before the mast cap is added. This can be done as I can keep the shrouds out of the way whilst I add the foreyard and rig the truss pendants, sling, jeers and lifts. My concern is will the foreyard make adding the ratlines, futtock shrouds and catharpins more difficult. I decided that I should set the two jeer blocks located on the foremast to the required height and then seized to the figure of 8 lashing. With this done I then decided I should also add the burton pendants. I then decided that I should made the shrouds. The large loops allows the shrouds to be dropped oved the foremast. When the shrouds are correctly positioned the loop seizing can be adjusted to tighten the loop. The shrouds were then added to the foreyard, but kept them out of the way as can be seen in the photos below. Please note the shroud loops have not been tightened as the shrouds are not in their required positions. I am now going to study the rigging plans (again) to see where the truss pendants, jeers and lifts are belayed at deck level before deciding on weather to rig the shrouds or to add the foreyard next.
  23. Glenn-UK
    Foreyard It took quite a bit of time to add the various blocks to the foreyard. It is important to ensure the block holes are correctly positioned and orientated on the foreyard, in readiness for the rigging stage later on in the build process, as they are added. After the all the blocks had been secured to the foreyard I turned my attention to the truss pendant rigging. I started the process by creating a thimble to one end of each truss pendant. The truss pendants were then secured to the foreyard. The final task was to add the footropes. Thankfully this turned out to be a relatively straight forward task. I started by creating the loops either side of the foreyard mid point. The footropes were then passed through the footrope stirrups. I then made a loop each end which were placed over the end of the foreyard and positioned just before the end cleats. The two end loops were then slowly tighten up until I was happy with how they footropes looked. I have added a selection of photos of the completed foreyard. Before securing the foreyard to the foreyard I will add the lower fore shrouds to the foremast.
  24. Glenn-UK
    Seizing a Block I have often described in my build log posts the method I use to seize a block using a series of alternate half hitch knots. Today I thought I would make a video showing how I do this in real time. In this video a 4mm single block is wrapped with 0.25mm black thread and then seized with 0.1mm black thread. With the block held in place using my quadhands the video starts after a length of 0.25mm black thread had been wrapped around the block. Sometimes the seizing can slide away from the block during the seizing process therefore you will note after I added the first pair of half hitch knots a touch a ca glue was used to prevent the slide from happening. This video also shows that once I had completed the seizing a micro drill was used to check the block hole and the required rigging line was then test threaded. This method works really well for me, but I know modellers will have other methods which suits them better,
  25. Glenn-UK
    Seizing a Block I have often described in my build log posts the method I use to seize a block using a series of alternate half hitch knots. Today I thought I would make a video showing how I do this in real time. In this video a 4mm single block is wrapped with 0.25mm black thread and then seized with 0.1mm black thread. With the block held in place using my quadhands the video starts after a length of 0.25mm black thread had been wrapped around the block. Sometimes the seizing can slide away from the block during the seizing process therefore you will note after I added the first pair of half hitch knots a touch a ca glue was used to prevent the slide from happening. This video also shows that once I had completed the seizing a micro drill was used to check the block hole and the required rigging line was then test threaded.

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