Glenn-UK

Stage 2 - Fairing The Hull Hull Construction – Fairing The Hull Build Steps 21-22 This is an important task to get right and requires plenty of test fitting of planks during the fairing process. I used a mixture of a sanding block fitted with 220 grit sandpaper, a 400 grit sanding stick and 220 grit sandpaper. As can seen in the following photos the planking seems to be sitting fully on the various bulkheads. Parts Time Taken 60 mins Hull Construction – Fairing The Hull Build Steps 21-22 When doing a test fit of the bulwarks there is still a little bit of fairing work required at the stern, as can be seen in the next photo. The bulwarks do line up perfectly with the deck however. Hull Construction – Adding Prow and Keel Bottom Build Steps 23-27 There are two prow supports to be glued to the prow, using a locking peg to help with the correct alignment. The leading edges of the prow supports were chamfered before they were fitted. The prow and keel were then glued and clamped to the hull assembly. Parts 57, 65, 107, 108 Time Taken 10 mins

Stage 1 – Hull Construction Part 2 Hull Construction – Stern Frames, Gluing Hull Frame and Sub Deck Build Steps 13-19 After a test fit of the inner and outer stern frames the laser char was removed from the visible edges as I felt this would be easier to do prior to their installation. Once I had cleaned and glued the stern frames in place a diluted wood glue solution was brushed to all the bulkhead / false keel and lower deck joints. The final task of this section of the build was to add the sub deck. Glue was applied to all the keel and bulkhead contact points and the sub deck was slotted into place, checking that the sub deck was clicking into the locating slots on each bulkhead. As an added precaution diluted wood glue was then bushed into all the sub deck joints. Parts 109, 110, 29 Time Taken 30 minutes Hull Construction –Sub Deck Items Dry Fit Build Steps It is now a good time, before bulwarks and planking has been added, to check that the various deck items will pass the the sub deck openings and will then locate in slots provided in the lower deck. As can be seen in the next three photos everything aligned up perfectly and there is also a nice rake angel for the mast. Parts Time Taken 10 minutes Hull Construction – Transom and Stern Counter Build Steps 20-21 I decided it would be prudent to soak the inner stern counter in warm water for a few minutes before clamping it to the curved section of the stern frames. I used a hair dry to accelerate the drying process once the wetted pattern had been clamped in place. I also added a chamfer to the lower inside edge for a better fit. Once I was happy with the fit the stern counter it was glued and clamped to the stern frames, using the laser etched guides. After an initial test fit of the inner transom pattern I added a chamfer to the bottom edge to ensure a nice tight fit with the stern counter. It was then glued and clamped in place. Parts 62, 63 Time Taken 10 mins Basic Hull Construction Completed Build Steps The basic (stage 1) hull build is now complete and the Sherbourne is now ready for the next stage which is fairing and 1st planking. I am also expecting to take delivery of the Harpy tomorrow (6th December) but I will do my best to resist making a start on the Harpy until I have completed the first planking on the Sherbourne. Parts Time Taken

Build Log Index Stage 1 – Hull Construction Part 1 Hull Construction – Pre bevelling of Bulkheads Build Steps 1-2 Laser etched guidelines are provided on bulkheads 1-4 and 13-17 and chamfers were added to these bulkheads. Once the basic hull had been assembled all the bulkheads will be faired to the required shape, so the planks are in full contact. Parts 1-17 Time Taken 30 mins Hull Construction – Keel Assembly and Lower Deck Build Steps 3-9 Bulkheads 1-16 were then slotted in place to the false keel but were not glued in place at this stage of the build process. Bulkhead 17 will be fitted at a later stage in the build process. Next the left and right keel doublers were slotted in place. I did add the chamfer using the laser etch guide lines before they were fitted. The locking pegs were then glued in place to ensure the keel doublers were correctly aligned with the false hull. After a test fit of the lower deck glue was applied to the top contact areas on the bulkheads and the deck then added using the laser etched “top” marking to ensure the correct orientation. Parts 1-18, 19L, 19R, 22, 23 Time Taken 15 mins Hull Construction – Bow Frames, Longitudinal Support and Deck Camber Beams Build Steps 10-12 The two bow frames, after a test fit were chamfered and then they were glued in place. Next the two longitudinal support patterns were chamfer and glued in place, after a test fit. With reference to the plan sheet the various deck camber beams were glued in place. All excess glue was removed from the top edges, where the deck will be placed. Parts 20L, 20R, 21L, 21R, 24, 25 Time Taken 15 mins Although I have not seen any reference to it I think the top edge of bulkhead 17 will require a chamfer so the deck, when fitted, will sit flush. I think can be seen in the following build manual photo. With bulkhead 17 in place I have marked the top edge that needs to be chamfered.

There are a few different planking and rigging ideas I want to experiment and the HM Armed Cutter Sherbourne kit ticked all the boxes for this task. One of the methods I wish to try out is the use of steam to bend bend and twist the planks. The twisting of tapered planks around the bow region, I think, should produce the same result as Chuck's lateral planking method which I have tended to use, with limited success, on some of my last recent builds. I can also see the benefit with twisting some planks in the stern area, particularly those that fold under the stern counter and with the lower garboard plank(s) which twists toward the stern post area. There are some excellent YouTube videos, showing this method on Jason's Modelkit Stuff YouTube channel. The Sherbourne kit is scheduled for delivery tomorrow (4th December 2024) morning and the shipyard is ready and waiting for the new arrival. My next my major project will be the Harpy (Vanguard Models) which may arrive later in the week, but will probably arrive sometime next week, depending on when @chris watton receives the manual and plan sheets from the printers.

Hello Chris Is there any news on the Harpy? I think you were expecting the printed material this week.

Hello Paul I had not considered tubing which is an excellent suggestion. I could make a sleeve which may look a bit odd. Food for thought. THANKS

The damage was where the topgallant yard was pinned so not reallt possible to add a pin with repositioned the topgallant yard. I did consider a few different options.

MY FINAL BRIG ADDER BUILD LOG POST I had about another weeks work left to complete the Brig Adder as I only had the yard braces and lifts to rig. This would have tied in nicely with the expected release date for the Harpy, which is my next build project. Unfortunately when I started work on the Adder this afternoon I noted the fore topgallant mast had been damaged, I can only assume I knocked yesterday when I was adding one of the fore topsail yard jeers. After trying to repair the damage I ended up making matters far worse and realised that I would have to remove fore topgallant mast and all of its associated rigging. Once that was done I would then have to make a new topgallant mast and redo all the rigging. I know from experience, with the Indy, that this is not an easy repair. The most difficult aspects are trying to remove the damaged mast from the end cap and the shroud rigging that is belayed around the topsail deadeye strops. This is a photo of the damage. I have really enjoyed building the Brig Adder but my interest in model boats, as a hobby, is the building process and developing methods to make the building process easier. I was so pleased when someone bought my Indy as there is no room left in the house to display all of my completed models. At the moment I have two small Vanguard Models fishing boats on display on the living room. The Sphinx is on display in the dining room and both the Alert and Duchess of Kingston are on display in the conservatory. I have decided to stop work on the Adder; a) I do not have the space to display the Brig Adder when completed b) My next build (Harpy) is due to released in the next week or two which I will want to start immediately. c) I do struggle with some aspect of the rigging due to my poor close vision d) I may end up doing more damage when I try to remove the damaged mast and associated rigging Thank-you to everyone who has been following and commenting / liking my Brig Adder build log posts it is greatly appreciated. Many thanks also to @chris watton for designing and selling this amazing kit and I am sorry Chris that I have sadly failed to cross the finish line when I was so close to the end. I have already downloaded then Harpy manual so my free time will be spent reading the manual and checking out @James H excellent Harpy build log.

Good news with the Harpy as I am waiting like an expectant father for its arrival.🤣 I am very pleased that VM is growing and is testament to your philosophy with regards to providing high quality kits.

Build Log Index Date: 20/11/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 140 hours. Gaff Boom and Main / Fore Yard Jeers Adding the running rigging for the gaff boom was a bit more involved compared with the driver boom but not to taxing. With the gaff boom secured to the mast via the parrel beads all the other running rigging was installed and adjusted and belayed. I was happy with the result. I then secured the main and fore yards to their respective masts and added the jeer rigging.

Build Log Index Date: 19/11/2024 Time worked today: 2 hours. Total time spent on build: 136 hours. Driver Boom Running RIgging This was a mundane and simple task to complete. Step 1 The driver boom was added to the main mast as shown below. Step 2 The inter-block rigging, shown in the next photo was then added, but not belayed. Step 3 Next a length of thread was added to the end of the driver boom. Step 4 This thread was then reeved through a block on the main mast. Step 5 The first inter-block block was then belayed. Step 6 The thread from the end of the driver boom was then belayed to deck, via a double block arrangement, as shown below. Step 7 The final task was to add a second thread, as shown in the next two photos

Build Log Index Date: 19/11/2024 Time worked today: 2 hours. Total time spent on build: 136 hours. Driver Boom Running RIgging This was a mundane and simple task to complete. Step 1 The driver boom was added to the main mast as shown below. Step 2 The inter-block rigging, shown in the next photo was then added, but not belayed. Step 3 Next a length of thread was added to the end of the driver boom. Step 4 This thread was then reeved through a block on the main mast. Step 5 The first inter-block block was then belayed. Step 6 The thread from the end of the driver boom was then belayed to deck, via a double block arrangement, as shown below. Step 7 The final task was to add a second thread, as shown in the next two photos

Build Log Index Date: 19/11/2024 Time worked today: 10 hours. Total time spent on build: 134 hours. Shrouds, Ratlines, Stays and Backstays I have finally completed adding all the shrouds and ratlines. I have also completed all work related to the stays and backstays. I find it is difficult to take good quality photos at this stage of the build process. I have attached a couple of photos showing the current build and a three showing some of the rigging. I will now look at adding the running rigging for the driver boom and gaff boom. Once that is done it will time to add and rig all the masts. This means the end is now in sight and it should tie in nicely with my next project as I now have the Harpy on pre-order with Vanguard Models.

Just in time to order after I have finished the Harpy

I have placed an order

Another masterclass in building. I am looking forward to building the Harpy

Great news. I will be placing an order for the Harpy.

Build Log Index Date: 08/11/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 124 hours. Futtock Staves and Catharpins I have started to add the futtock staves and catharpins. When adding the futtock staves I used the quad hands to hold the staves in place. I did use a template to make to help position the staves. It was then a case of securing the stave to the shrouds. In the photo below I have secured the staves both ends. I did secure the stave to the middle two shrouds after I took the photo The quad hands were used when adding the catharpins. With the one end of the catharpin thread wrapped around the stave I was able to add the seizing. It did not take two long to complete the process. The next task was to add the ratlines. I used a template for this. I added the ratlines above the stave first. I did mark the template to help with the positioning. When adding the ratlines added all the 1's followed by all the 2’s and then finally all the 3’s. The final task is to add the futtock shrouds, these have been prepared and are ready to be installed.

Build Log Index Date: 05/11/2024 Time worked today: 4 hours. Total time spent on build: 120 hours. Topsail Stays To start this post I have attached a photo showing the current build status of my adder. I have now added the topsail mast stays and the back stays. The topsail stays are belayed to the deck via a two block arrangement. The lower block is a single block secured to the deck (main) and hull (fore) via an eyebolt. The inter-block rigging is added to these blocks via an thimble. A double block is added to the end of the stays. I started the process by adding the double block to each of the stays. To do this I make a loop in the stay. The loop is then closed around the block and its position can be adjusted up or down the stay as necessary. As can be seen in the next photo I am checking the position which is just about where I want it to be. Once I was happy with the positioning of the block a second set of seizing was then added. Once that was done the single blocks were seized to the eyebolts and then secured to the deck / hull. Adding and belaying the inter-block rigging was then a straightforward task. The belaying of the main and fore mast stays have also been completed. And finally another photo of the Adder I will now start work on adding the topgallant masts and shrouds.

Build Update I have had an enforced 3 week break from building this model. It started when I had an offer to sell my model of the Indy. I took a few days to dust her down and to build a suitable shipping frame. I also hand painted the figure of Captain Pellow. Unfortunately she suffered some damage when the buyer tried to fit her in his car,. It then took me a week to repair the damage, which required two new topgallant masts (Main and Fore) and then removing and then replacing all the topgallant mast and yard rigging. I also had a weeks holiday in France in the middle of all of this mayhem. The repaired Indy has now been delivered to the buyer intact, using a specialist delivery company (Lenspeed). Therefore today I was finally able to return to the Adder build and I will be able to start posting my progress later this week.

Harpy methinks might be next 🤔

Sad to see her go, but I had no room for her and happy that she has gone to a place to be displayed.

Many thanks, once I had managed to release the remaining bits of the damaged masts from the caps I was able to work methodically to redo the rigging. The hardest task was to remove the topgallant shrouds from the belaying points.

Goodbye To My Indy I was approached recently to see if I would be interested in selling my Indy. As I did not really have the space for her I was more than happy to let her go. There was not quite enough room in his transport when he came to pick the Indy and sadly the main and fore topgallant mast suffered damage, as can be seen in the photo below. I could have cried and thought a trip to the local tip was on the cards. He was still very keen to have the model so I set about repairing all the damage. I had to make and fit two new topgallant masts. Next I had to redo all the damaged rigging, such as the shrouds, jeers, lifts, braces, stays, back stays, etc. This was a nightmare to do due to the limited access. After a few days hard work the repairs were complete, and most people will be hard pressed to see the repair. The Captain looked impressed. Next I transferred the Indy to a transport shipping frame which should prevent lateral and longitudinal movement. The inner faces of the blocks were felt lined. The client then used a specialist transport company, called Lenspeed. They were fantastic, taking great care to load and adding additional damping and strapping to prevent unwanted movement / vibration during the 2 hours drive. I was a bit sad to see her go, but very happy knowing she has gone to a good home where she will be appreciated.

I'm currently enjoying a cruise on the river Seine. Today I visited Honfleur, an old port town used by sailing ships, and discovered a wooden church built by the boat builders. As can be seen in the attached photo the church roof does look like the bottom hull of a ship.