Glenn-UK
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011 - Second Planking LHS I have now completed the second planking layer on the left-hand side. I was really happy with how the first few planks were fitted. I then seemed to find one plank really difficult to fit. So I decided to experiment with the lateral edge bending method to see if that would help. A plank was held either end of the required bend with clamps. I then glued two small lengths of some planking material off-cuts to make a simple jig, the top off-cut overhung the bottom so when in place it would keep the plank to be bent flat. The jig also allowed me to apply a required bend to the plank. With the plank held in place I brushed on some water and then left it dry overnight. I could have applied some heat to sped up the process (with hair dryer or iron). However when the plank was released from the clamps it had retained the bend. I was then very pleased that the laterally bent plank was a perfect fit. I have attached some pictures of the completed left-hand side. There will be a little it of work required to sand, fill and smooth the hull below the water line .before the painting process. I still struggle to use super glue (gel) when adding these planks. I start by adding a few drops along the first 50mm (approx) of the plank and then I place it on the hull. Once I am happy the glue is holding the plank in place I add more drops, this time to the hull, under the plank, working in sections. I use a broken micro drill end to add the glue to the hull. Any excess glue is wiped away.
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- Nisha
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010 - Adding the outer patterns and start of second planking I have now added the outer patterns for the stem, keel and stern post. I have also added the outer bulwark patterns and the first plank underneath the bulwarks. I then added the upper and lower outer stern counter patterns. With reference to the next photo you will note that I did manage to break the upper outer stern board pattern, indicated by the blue arrow. I will need to tidy up the broken joint area before I apply a coat or two of white paint. There is also a little plank filler required as indicated by yellow arrow. With a little bit of work the filler piece was added, as indicated by the yellow arrow in the following photo. I have also tidied up the joint where I had broken upper stern board pattern.
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I would simply replace the damaged shroud pair with a new shroud pair and strip away the ratlines. In the past I have undone completed ratlines without any problems. Good luck with your repairs whichever way you chose to go.
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009 - 1st Planking Completed Over the last two days, with limited time in the shipyard, I have managed to complete the first planking layer. I did not make such a good job on the LHS planking compared with the RHS but I did make a reasonable job of it. I did experiment with fitting a laterally bent plank. The photo below shows the plank held in the place as the lateral bend is applied. The next few photos are a selection of the completed first planking, noting I have also fitted the stern board. I have made a start sanding the hull smooth. I started with 120-grit sandpaper and then used 220- grit and finished off with 400-grit sandpaper. The hull does feel smooth to the touch and is ready for the second planking. I have attached a few more photos of the sanded first planked hull.
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Many thanks Kevin. You're doing a great job on the Lady Eleanor. Nisha is a nice easy build (so far). I am really looking forward to the release of the Indy which will be a mammoth undertaking. It took me 11 months to build the Sphinx but I would expect Indy will be 2 to 3 year build project.
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008 - 1st Planking RSH Completed I have now completed the first planking on the right-hand side. After completing the first banding I fitting the garboard plank. Although it was not strictly necessary I did fit this in two halves. It was then a simple job to fit the remaining two planks to complete the right hand planking. I am very happy with the first planking and it should not take too much sanding to create a nice smooth surface ready for the second planking. I did stop the planks short of the stern post which will enable to planks to be tapered (thinned) so the second planking will fit flush with the outer stern post pattern. I will test fit the outer stem post pattern and will trim the planking around the stem post as necessary to ensure there is a nice rabbet for the second planking.
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I don't think there issue with the 2nd planking as I have test fitted the stem outer patterns after fitting the first two planks. When I built the Erycina and Saucy Jack I did end up trimming some of the 1st planking back a bit so the 2nd planking would fit in the rabbet.
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007 - 1st Planking Band 1 Having decided to try using a banding technique for the first 4 planks I tapered some planks, based on my bulkhead measurements. The taper would start from bulkhead 5 tapering to 4mm at bulkhead 3 and 3mm. I tapered four planks and did a test fit. In the photo below you can see where I marked the positions of the bulkheads. The next set of photo's show the progress made after the first two plank were fitted. Each plank was test fitted and I did slightly sand some of the bulkheads before gluing the planking in place so the plank height looked level with the adjacent plank. In the next photo you will note the method I used to hold the plank in place on bulkhead 11 to ensure it was in full contact with the bulkhead. The next set of photos is after the completion of planking in the first band. I did also dry fit some planks in the gap to verify the infill at the widest point was 9 planks in total. The next plank to be fitted to the stern counter required a bit of shaping. The next photo shows me checking the shaping As the plank required a bend I did slightly wet the plank and then pinned it in place hopefully retaining the bend once the plank has had time to dry out.
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006 - Start of 1st Planking One of the reasons for buying this model was so I could use it as a practice piece for some aspects of model building which I need to get better at. Planking is one such area which I would like to improve on. With that in mind, and after reading several different methods, my head is now full of different ideas, such as: a) simply follow the build manual instructions with regards to tapering b) Create different banding areas for planking and taper the planks as per the banding requirements c) use Chuck's lateral edge bending method Starting with the basics. I have measured the distance from the bottom of the bulwarks to the keel and recorded them in a table. At the widest point 9 planks will be required. The planks are 5mm wide so with a very simple bit of maths the required plank width at each bulkhead has been calculated. After a little bit of careful consideration I have opted to followed the build manual for the first plank which has been split in two with a joint at bulkhead 6. This also means the rest of the planking can be split into 2 x 4 planking bands should I decide to the taper the planks to fit into these bands. I have plenty of spare planking material so I think I will test fit the next 4 planks with the required taper from bulkhead 5 to bulkhead 1 which is 5mm down to 2.9mm. Depending on how the planks look when test fitted I may also look at experimenting with Chuck's lateral plank bend. The taper for the first plank has been marked and is now ready to be trimmed. I will will provide further updates once I have made more progress with the planking.
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- Nisha
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005 - Stern Counter and Bulwarks I spent a bit of time fairing the hull. I started off with 180-grit sanding sticks and 120-grit sandpaper. I then used 400-grit sanding sticks. I have checked the hull with a test plank and as far as I can tell there is good contact for the planks. I did try a few different planking runs The stem, keel and stern posts were then added. To help ensure I had a good adhesion I did brush a diluted titebond solution into the joints I did test fit the outer stem post patterns and drew a line on the stem post so I know where thew second planking needs to terminate. The stern counter pattern was soaked in hot water for 30 min and then clamped to the stern frames and left to dry overnight. The dried stern counter pattern was a nice fit as it was glued into place. Next was to add the two bulwark patterns. I did bevel the bow end leading edges and aligned the lower marked line with the deck level. I am at a loss to explain why the right-hand bulwark does not line up properly with the stern frame. The deck is firmly resting on the framework. The stern frame parts were fully pushed into the locating slots. The bulwark bottom line is aligned with with the deck. I am not going to worry about it at the moment. I will decided on what needs to be done when the bulwarks are ready to be painted and the stern gunwale is ready to be fitted. I am now ready to start adding the first planking layer. As can be seen in the photo below and have marked some 5mm steps which indicates I should be fitting 8 planks at the widest point. I have checked and believe 5 planks (per side) will be required to cover the distance between the bulwark and the stern post.
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004 - Hull Construction Work Continues The next task is to fit the main deck plywood base. This part should slip over the bulkheads and locate into slots. Before fitting the deck I did sand the area where the deck would sit to ensure it was a nice flat surface. It is essential to check the deck fully engages with the locating slots on each bulkhead w hen it is installed, noting there is a nice click when this happens. There was no issues with aligning the deck and after clicking it into place I was pleased that it was sitting nice and flush on top of the bulkhead assembly. After double checking the deck was fully engaged I brushed a diluted titebond solution into the joints. I also fitted the outer stern filler patterns. Before moving on to the next task, which is fairing the hull, I decided it would be prudent to check some of the deck items which pass through the main deck and locate in slots on the lower deck. This is always a worthwhile task prior to the planking in my opinion. The various parts were test fitted and located in the lower deck slots without any issues. I can now turn my attention to fairing the hull.
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003 - Hull Construction and Deck Items (highlighting a slight snag with the companionway jig) The bulkheads were positioned along the keel along with the lower deck pattern. The bow and stern planking edge patterns were next to be added, using the 4 off locating pegs to ensure they were correctly positioned. The clamps parts for bulkheads 4 and 7 were then added using the locating pegs to ensure the correct alignment. Next the two longitudinal brace patterns were slotted in place. These patterns help to align and lock the bulkheads in position from position 3 to 12. Finally the 6 stern frame patterns, 2 inner, 2 middle and 2 outer were slotted in to place. Once I was happy everything was in place and fully engaged I brushed a diluted titebond glue solution into all the joints. The hull assembly will now be left for 24 hours to ensure the glue has fully cured. I did add a clamp between bulkhead 2 and 3 on the right hand side to keep bulkhead 2 in the correct position. With a bit of time to kill before I can continue with the tasks on the hull construction I decided to make a start with some of the small sub-assemblies. Rudder Sub-Assembly There are two decorative patterns to be added to the rudder. The two patterns were glued and clamped in place. I used a couple of brass pins to ensure the patterns were correctly aligned. The 6 off PE hinges will be added later on. Fore and Aft Fish Hatch Sub-Assembly Each fish hatch has an upper and lower frame which were glued together and then clamped. Once the glue had been given time to cure the laser char was removed from the visible edges using a 180 grit sanding stick then a 1000 grit standing stick. The fish hatch covers were then test fitted. I will add the 0.5mm thread to the fish hatch covers later on in the build process. Companionway Sub-Assembly The first task was to build the jig. The side pieces were slotted in place on the base plate followed by the jig's cross beam. I then took the two side pieces of the companionway and glued them to the companionway cross beam. Once the glue had time to cure I tried to place the companionway assembly over the jig so the curved canopy could be added. This is when I hit a snag as the companionway assembly would not fit over the jig. With a little bit of investigation I noted the jig was fractional oversized, as can be seen in the next photo. In order to resolve this I will need to sand the outside edges of the companionway jig to reduce the overall dimension which I believe should be 11mm, but currently measures 11.4mm.
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002 - Start of Hull Construction I am taking a slightly different approach to this build. This time, after review of the build manual instructions, I am making my own build notes. I think this will help me visual the build process better and it hopefully it will help me reduce my normal array of build errors. My first set of build notes is a bit sparse as they relate to building the temporary cradle. I am now ready to start work on building the cradle. The 4 cradle parts were removed removed from the MDF sheet. I then clean up the tab ends from the bottom edges. I did this by simply rubbing the edges over a piece of 120-grit sandpaper. The four cradle parts slotted together without any problems, the slots were a good tight fit. I now have a completed cradle. I think I need to go for a rest now.😂 The next task was to remove the 12 off bulkheads from the 3mm MDF sheet. I noted that bulkheads 1, 2, 3, 10, 11 and 12 have laser etched lines for the pre-beveling of the edges. Before starting the pre-bevelling I decided to check that the bulkheads would fit on the keel. I also checked the fitting of the stern counter patterns (inner, middle and outer) and planking edge patterns (bow and stern). Everything seems to fit together very well so I now have confidence to move on to the pre-bevelling phase. I used my Gilmour rotary tool for the initial pre-bevelling. I then used a sanding stick on the bevelled edges and finally completed the process with some 120-grit sandpaper. I also pre-bevelled the planking edge patterns. I have made a good start today, with limited time in the shipyard due to grandparent duties. I am now ready to start the initial hull assembly steps. I don't think it will take too long before the basic hull frame is built.
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001 - The Fleet My next venture with Vanguard Models starts today with the arrival of the Nisha Brixham 'Mumble-Bee' kit. The plan for this build is for a test piece so I can work on improving some of my techniques in readiness for the Indy build, especially the planking and painting aspects. I think this build will fill the time nicely before the eagerly waited release of the Indy, hopefully late Feb early March. The existing fishing fleet (Eyrcina and Saucy jack) are both excited about a new arrival to the shipyard. The bigger ships in the fleet also showed a passing interest, Speedy not included as she was only a part build. The Alert The Duchess Sphinx The fleet in unison
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Thanks for all the comments and likes. The shipyard has now been cleaned and tidied up ready for the Nisha build. The kit should arrive in the next day or two.
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- Saucy Jack
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024 - The Completed Saucy Jack All good things must come to an end and this morning I completed the final task so the Saucy Jack is now complete and will be added to my ever expanding Vanguard fleet. To date I have built Speedy, Alert, DOK, Sphinx, Erycina and Saucy Jack. The Indy, when released will be a major undertaking and I expect it will take 2 to 3 years to complete. Thanks to everyone who has been following this build and for all the kind comments and likes. It is greatly appreciated. Thanks also to Chris and James for all the the work they have put in to developing and producing a brilliant range of models. Until the Indy kit is released, which I have pre-ordered, I need another small project so I have now ordered the Nisha – Brixham ‘Mumble Bee’. My plan for the Nisha is to use it as a practise piece to try to hone some of my weaker skills, especially the planking aspect which needs great improvement. I have attached a few pictures of the completed Saucy Jack.
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023 - Adding the Inner and Outer Jibsails I started with the inner jibsail which was installed without too much fuss. I used the same method for the installation of the inner jibsail as detailed for the outer jibsail, later on in this post. As with the inner jibsail I started the installation process for the outer jibsail by making the various blocks, as can be seen in the three photos below. The outer jibsail was then attached to the lower main mast end cap, via the eyebolt and double block arrangement, as can be seen in the next photo. The lower fastenings were then added, but not belayed, so the position of the outer jibsail could be adjusted as necessary The outer jibsail has now been positioned and is ready to be belayed. I am using a couple of reverse action tweezers to hold the two of the three unbelayed lines in place in the photo below which shows the current the current state of the Saucy Jack build. Once the three outer jibsail lines have been belayed I will make the stand and the build process will then be complete.
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Thanks, I use reverse action tweezers, straight and right angled. I did buy a set of rigging tools many years ago from CMB's when build HMS Victory but I never used them. Perhaps they can help, I will give them a try.
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Compared to my other boats this seemed much more difficult, especially accessing the belaying pins under the shrouds. I have plenty of tools. I find reverse action tweezers are usually the most useful, both straight and right-angled versions.
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022 - Main Sail and Top Sail Rigging I have been able to spend a little bit more time in the shipyard and I have now completed the work related to adding the main and top sails. The photo below shows the current state of play. The top mast stay has been added but I have not belayed the free end which is why it looks wrong after passing through the bowsprit thimble. The next few photos are a collection of various aspects of the main and top sail work, in no particular order. I have rigged a few model boats but I have found some of the belaying to the bitts very tricky due to the limited space. It took me the best part of an hour to belay the line shown in the next photo as I found it almost impossible to hook the rigging line around the bottom of the belay pin. Some of the belaying block arrangements are shown in the next photo. The boom looks a bit long. I did double check the measurement and it is as per the plan sheet.
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- Saucy Jack
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021 - Ratlines I printed out a template and added my usual 0, 1 and 2 markers. The ratline sequence I follow is to add all the 0's first. Then I add all the 1's. The job is completed by filling in the gaps by adding all the 2's. As can be seen in the photo below I have positioned the template behind the shrouds and I ready to start adding the ratlines. As can be seen in the next photo I have added all the 0's. The more observant will note I actually added the bottom 2 rather than the bottom 0 ratline. I will add the bottom 0 ratline once all the other ratlines have been added so I can then repositioned the bottom clamp. In the next photo I have added the 1's ratlines, except the one at the top which can be added when the top clamp is repositioned. In the next photo I have added the all the 2 ratlines. In the final few photo's all the ratlines have now been added and all the ends trimmed. I now have to repeat this process for the other side. It does not take me to long to complete this process.
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I am going quite slow at the moment for me. I might have to build another fishing boat in the new year before I get the Indy kit.🤣
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