Glenn-UK
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Everything posted by Glenn-UK
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Thanks, I had noted that in your log and is something I need to look at. -
Today I have been working on the ships wheel and tiller. First task was to shape the tiller by rounding off the square edges. Once this was done I set about adding the 2 x 2mm single blocks. The first thing I did was to carefully run a 0.4mm micro drill through the blocks holes and then test fed some 0.1mm thread through the blocks. Next, using the quad hands, I started to seize the first 2mm block using 0.25mm black thread. Once I had completed the seizing I thought it looked a bit bulky so I then started again, this time using 0.1mm thread. I think this produce a better result. I used the seizing method suggested by Derek (DELF) which was to use alternate half hitches top and bottom and I worked toward the block, and this proved to be a very good method. Eventually had the two blocks seized to one length of thread which was then secured to the tiller. I had already primed and painted the brass ship's wheel PE parts so it was a very straightforward task assemble the items. In the picture below the ships wheel and tiller have both been dry fitted to check everything fits ok. My next task will be to seize 6 off 2mm blocks to their respective eyebolts, once again I will follow the seizing method outlined by Derek (DELF) in his Speedy build log. I will use a blacking solution on the eyebolts prior to the seizing. I then plan to run the rigging thread through blocks in turn and once each block has been threaded I will secure the ship wheel and eyebolts in there respective positions and then tension and tie off the rigging using two more blackened eyebolts. I have already dry fitted the Tiller Housing which I will glue in place once the rigging has been completed.
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- Vanguard Models
- Duchess of Kingston
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This morning work as progressed well. The painted figurehead as now been installed and the lower cheek rail was put back in place without any problems. Prior to painting the figurehead I did try a dry fit and found in necessary to remove some of the excess resin casting bits from the base and back of the main figurehead part. I did manage to knock of the feathers from the top of the helmet however. Thankfully I was able to find the very small piece and using a touch of CA gel I was able to reattach without any problems. I have added the final PE decorations to the Bow ‘V’ Frames, cathead assembly, Bow Bracket and Hawse Bolsters. The cathead decorations and bow bracket with the decorations added, with an out of focus figurehead
- 382 replies
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New To Building Ships Help and advice needed
Glenn-UK replied to Richard O's topic in New member Introductions
You have made a very wise choice with the Duchess Of Kingston. There are some great build logs to help you along the way. -
I have noted that the Lower Cheek Rail leading edge (the curly bit) prevents the installation of the figurehead. I have been able to release the Lower Cheek Rail on one side and I have now test fitted the figurehead without any problems. I noted on the pictures in the build manual the curly bit has been removed. I have also fitted the Catheads, the Cathead Support Brackets and the bow upper and low rails. I have now started painting the figurehead, the blue background is now complete and the paint is now drying. I will paint the gold bits in the morning. I have been using my latest gadget, the LED hands free magnifier headband visor and this is going to be an excellent addition.
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Thanks, overall I'm reasonably happy with the build. I'm slowly getting better with each build I do.
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Time for another update in my progress. The two attached close up photo's show just had badly I painted the hull, thankfully it is not that noticeable to the naked eye when viewed from distance😂. I have now fitted the rudder assembly. I took my time in shaping the upper stem of rudder so that there was sufficient clearance to allow the Rudder Pintles to be seated in the stern post. Looking ahead at rigging the wheel and tiller the 2mm single blocks look very small so I will need my LED hands free magnifier headband visor to see what I'm doing. I then proceeded to fit the Lower Cheek and Upper Cheek Rails followed by the 3 Bow ‘V’ Frames which I had tapered in readiness for the upper Bow Rails. I also fitted the Bow Brackets and Hawse Bolsters. Once the glue had had time to cure I will fit the both the upper and lower Bow Rails patterns.
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Thanks Bob, I think everyone is building to an amazing standard. I have made a few mistakes but overall I'm happy with the result so far.
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I have had a good day in the shipyard. I started off by adding the missing decorations to the port side. I also added the horseshoe and fish plates to the hull. I then decided to build and dry fit the mid ship bulkhead assembly. This was a nice task and fits really well. A really nice bit of design work by Chris. I then added the window and gun port decorations to the starboard side. I just need to add the decorations patterns to complete this task. I did add a black backing sheet behind the quarter gallery window.
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Hello Derek As always I have found your post(s) very informative and full of plenty of great advice and detailed methods. I have always used a jig to set the distance between the deadeyes but never seem to have a level set of deadeyes once rigged. The problem I have is setting the same amount of tension to each lanyard line. Do you have any tips? I have an idea on my current build to use a small weighted item (e.g. my normally closed tweezers) to the lanyards so each line so I know each line will have the same tension applied. I can then to use your method of using a white thread to mark the position at the bottom of the deadeye.
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Never heard of that before. Thanks for the info
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Great work. I'm eagerly waiting for the follow up note
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I painted the lower stern panel blue. I painted the transom red which looks really nice with the blue, gold and white. I painted the quarter galleries as shown in the manual, black background with red infills and gold decorations and white window frames.
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Thanks Chris. The holes suffered paint clog and I did not notice them. I will remove, clean and pin as per the instructions. The mis-alignment actually looks far worse in the picture.
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I decided to start adding the decorations to the hull. I have worked on the port side from stern to midships. The patterns have really added another dimension to the hull. Over the next couple of days I should be able to complete this task for both the port and starboard sides. Picture of port side decorations Picture of Quarter Gallery Window. I added a black sheet behind the window frame. With a steady hand I will touch up the paint work around the window frame. Picture of the two side windows. The left hand frame should have been positioned better I have only noted the error when looking at the photo. I might apply some acetone to remove it and to then reposition. There was no need to add a black sheet as the deck is visible through both windows.
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I have made some more progress today and have completed adding the stern rails and decoration patterns. Everything went together very smoothly and looks much better than shown in the two photos below. Looks nice with a black background and I did add a black backing sheet behind the windows I included the following photo to show the gold painted top edge and I made sure the picture was nicely out of focus
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Happy new year. Posted this on Jim's log in error (now deleted that post). Progress on my build did slow down over the last few days due to forming a child care bubble with our new granddaughter. I have fitted the wales and cappings to the hull. The wales proved to be more problematic than I was expecting. I had to remove and refit the port side to get them looking right. I'm not sure what I did but the top wale started and finished at the right points (according to the plan drawings) but drooped somewhat around the midships. Once the lower wale was fitted the bottom edge was far too close to the water line. I did ponder leaving it as fitted but decided it would be better to remove both wales and start again. I used a strip on my 2mm tape to set the correct line for the upper wale. Once that was fitted I used another length of my 2mm tape to set the correct line for the lower wale, maintaining the 3mm gap between the wales. I then proceed to paint the stern area blue (sorry no photo) and then moved on to painting stern decorations. The resin upper part has been painted blue and gold. The fascia panel has been painted red and I have added a black backing sheet behind the windows. The PE parts have been cleaned in acetone and given a couple of light coats of white primer and are now ready to be painted gold and white as necessary. It was not easy to get a decent photo of the white primed PE sheets.
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Looking good
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Great job Rusty. Did you soak and bend the stern decoration before painting blue and gold?
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