Glenn-UK
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They are nice to build. They are also a welcome distraction when I need a small break from rigging the DOK. -
Batch Hatch Assembly Today I have built the batch hatch. This only comprises two wooden parts. The hatch fits inside the combing. When complete there are two eyebolts and rings to be added to the hatch. This is a picture of the Batch Hatch Assembly (minus the eyebolts and rings) I thought I would try enhancing this part, so I added some thin wooden strips to simulate wooden construction. The instructions require the wooden parts to be painted red. I added an oak stain which I think think looks quite nice. This is a picture of the modified Batch Hatch Assembly (minus the eyebolts and rings).
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Great work Derek. I always need new tools so I have ordered the cutter😀
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Sorry Alan I'm not. I normally spend about 3 hours a day on the build
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I have built the Aft Companionway Assembly which was a nice simple task. Aft Companionway Assembly Video The wooden parts were removed from the sheet, and the laser char removed from the visible edges. To make the assembly easier I decided to make a simple jig to hold the frame in place whilst the parts were glued. PVA glue was applied to all the joints and the assembly aft companionway frame was then securely positioned in the frame. Once the glue had had time to cure the frame was removed from the jig. It was checked to make sure it was square. The completed frame assembly A thin layer of pva glue was place on the top edges so that the two roof parts could be fixed in place The roof parts were clamped in place while the glue was curing The first coat of red ochre paint was applied, which highlights any defects which may need attention, as can be seen in the photo below. A second coat of paint was applied after a quick fix with a sanding stick. It looks much better now. The photoetched handle was cleaned in acetone and blackened. It was then fixed in place. The deck item is now complete. https://youtu.be/BayCkBRd-PQ
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Today I have added the crows feet rigging to the foremast on my Duchess Of Kingston build. I have added a some of pictures of the completed rigging. Next I will add the fore topmast and fore topgallant shrouds. A picture which shows all three masts crows feet rigging. I have also added a video showing my full rigging process in this rigging aspect. It might not be the best or correct rigging method but it works well for me. Crows Feet Rigging Video Another angle of the completed crows feet rigging A head on view of the crows feet rigging
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Progress update on the rigging of the Duchess. I am taking small breaks from the rigging to build some of the deck items for the HM Cutter Alert but I am spending the majority of my build time on completing the DOK rigging. I have now added the shrouds to the foremast. I still have to add the shrouds to the fore topmast and fore topgallant mast. Once all the shrouds have been installed I will have add all the ratlines. I do like the process of adding the ratlines as I find it quite relaxing and therapeutic. Prior to adding the foremast shrouds I did pre run the spritsail yard brace lines through the platform blocks. I think this proved to be a good call. Before moving on to the adding the fore topmast and fore topgallant mast I decided to fit the foremast stay and foremast preventor stay. I found this a good way to rig before the futtock staves and shrouds are added as it less cluttered. This is a picture showing foremast shrouds and 2 x foremast stays. The rigging of the 2 x spritsail yard braces had not been completed when this picture was taken, but the lines have been run in ready. I like the angle of this picture showing the foremast stays and shrouds The two spritsail yard brace lines were fastened to the foremast stay just below the mouse. The lines were tensioned and then belayed to the appropriate belaying pins. This is a picture showing the spritsail yard braces This picture shows the current progress of the rigging
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I used the quadhands base to aid the clamping of the sheets. I am only doing bits and pieces on the Cutter Alert at the moment when I feel the need to take a small break from the rigging of the DOK. It should be a nice build.
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I took a 15 min break from the DOK this morning to build another deck item for the Cutter Alert, namely the two deck hand pumps. Deck Pump Assembly There are two identical deck pump assemblies. Each deck pump requires the following parts: 1 x 40mm length of 4mm dowel. 2 x hand pump upper side bracket (photoetch part) 1 x hand pump upper main body (photoetch part) 1 x hand pump top cap (photoetch part) 2 x small pins The photoetch items for both deck pumps were cleaned in acetone and then blackened using a photo etch burnishing solution. The 2 x 40mm lengths were cut from a piece of 4mm dowel. The parts are now ready for the assembly phase. I started the assembly process by gluing (ca gel) each hand pump top cap to the top of their respective dowel, ensuring the hole in hand pump top cap was positioned in the centre of the dowel. Next the hand pump upper side brackets were fitted to each side of the hand pump upper main body using ca gel. The small pins were used to ensure these parts were correctly aligned. The small pins were also glued in place and the excess pin material was trimmed flush with the side of the hand pump upper side brackets. I always like to test fit items before adding any glue to ensure everything is a good fit. When doing this I noted the hand pump assembly did not quite fit in the hand pump top cap locating slot. I solved this by running a needle file through the top cap locating slot. After a few quick passes of the file the hand pump assembly was a perfect fit and could be glued in place, again using a ca gel. 2 x Completed Deck Pump Assemblies
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Thanks for your comment. I hope you enjoy the rest of the build as it progresses. The instructions simply state: "The handles (PE-33) are to be bent and glued to each end of the shaft on F-2". The picture in the manual does however show the handles placed at 180 degrees opposite each other. I opted to have the handles placed inline with each other as I liked it that way. I don't think it matters either way in my opinion.
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I completed adding the foremast shrouds to the DOK build this afternoon so I had a little bit of time to kill so I decided to build another deck item for the Cutter Alert, which was the Jeer and Topsail Bitt. Jeer and Topsail Bitts Assembly This assembly comprises: 1 x mast bitt cross piece (3mm wood) 2 x mast bitt and standard (3mm wood) 1 x jeer and topsail bitt windlass (resin cast item) 2 x handles (photoetch parts) The wooden parts were painted ochre red. Once the excess casting resin had been removed from the windlass resin part the central barrel part was painted walnut brown and the spindles and gears were painted metalwork (iron) black. The two photoetch handles were cleaned in acetone and then blackened using a photo etch burnishing solution. The parts are now ready for assembly. Before committing the parts to the glue process, I tried a dry fit. I noted the windlass spindle would not locate in the respective holes of the mast bitt and standard wooden parts. I ran a 0.8mm micro drill bit through the holes which solved the problem. I used some wood glue to secure the mast bitt cross piece to the mast bitt and standards, ensuring the jeer and topsail bitt was fitted at the same time. Once the wood glue had cured the two photoetch handles were bent to 90 degrees along the fold line and glued (ca gel) to either end of the jeer and topsail bitt windlass spindles. This was a simple build and produced a very pleasing deck item as can be seen in the photos below.
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Thank you very much, it is a very nice model to build.
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I took a day off from the DOK rigging yesterday and spent a couple of hours on the Cutter Alert, building the winch drum and pawl bitt which was a nice distraction. Cutter Alert Winch Drum and Pawl Bitt assembly post Today I returned to the DOK rigging and commenced rigging the foremast shrouds. Before I started with adding the shrouds I decided it would be a good idea to run 2 lengths of 0.25mm natural thread for the spritsail yard braces through the 3mm blocks as it would be tricky to run the thread through these 3mm blocks later as they located behind the shrouds. I have temporarily belayed the each thread to the bitt rail to keep a little bit of tension in the line. These lines cannot be fully rigged until the foremast stays have been rigged as the other end of the spritsail yard braces are secured to the foremast stay. This picture shows one of spritsail yard brace thread which has been run through the two 3mm blocks. The shroud lines have been added but need to positioned in front of the spritsail yard brace thread, and not behind it has shown in the picture. I have also added all the foremast shroud lines and they are now ready for 5mm deadeyes to be fitted.
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My main priority at the moment is completing the DOK rigging therefore I will only be tackling some easy sub projects on the Alert. Today I decided to build the winch drum and pawl bitt assembly. I have uploaded a video to YouTube which contains more images and commentary of the build process. Winch drum and pawl assembly - YouTube The winch drum is a nice resin item, however there is some excess resin left from the mould. I used a craft knife fitted with a brand new blade to excess the resin. The winch drum needs to be painted a dark wood colour. I opted for a walnut finish. I used an iron metalwork black for the teeth. There are 4 x carrick bitt iron straps and 2 x pawls which are photoetched parts which need to be painted black. I opted to clean these parts in acetone and then used a photoetch burnishing solution to blacken them. All the wooden parts, with the exception of the two belaying pin racks, need to be painted red. I have decided to use Red Ochre for all the deck fittings. I decided to paint the pieces in situ before removing them for the 3mm sheet. The edges can be painted red during the assembly phase. As I removed the wood parts I did remove the laser char from the exposed edges this will be better when the edges are painted red. The various parts required for the build were checked against the build instruction. The 6 x belaying pins required for the 2 racks will be fitted when I'm ready to start the rigging phase. The parts are now ready for the assembly phase. The winch drum assembly and pawl bitt head assemblies are complete and ready to be joined together using the 2 belaying pin racks The two belaying racks were fitting to the winch drum assembly and their positions adjusted so the two pawls lined up with the winch drums teeth.
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Thanks Bruce, Jim and Chris. I only brushed on some water, I did not wish to saturate the sheets. When I removed the clamps and metal plate this morning the warp had been removed.
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Thanks Uwe. I hope to produce a detailed build log, detailing all aspects of my build for the Cutter Alert which I hope other modellers will find helpful and informative.
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As I had completed the work on the DOK main mast rigging earlier than planned today I thought I would start the Cutter Alert build process with a complete dry fit of the bulkheads and various securing patterns to the false keel. I placed sheet 1 of the 3mm MDF on my cutting mat and fitted a brand new blade fitted to my craft knife, I was all set to make the first cut. However before making the first cut I noticed the sheet was not laying flat on the mat. On closer inspection I noted there was quite a significant warp to the sheet and more to the point it ran along the length of the false keel. I also checked sheet 2 3mm MDF sheet which was also warped. Sometimes this is not an issue with kits as the assembly process will naturally straighten the parts during the assembly process. Having a quick look at the build manual I was not sure if this would be the case with this kit. There are two securing patterns (part 12 bow and bulkhead securing pattern and part 14 bow pattern) which may take care of any warping issues. I decided to air of the side of caution before removing any parts from either sheet and applied some water to both sides of the MDF sheets. I then clamped both sheets together with a heavy metal plate on top. I will now leave the sheets to fully dry out, whilst clamped. Fingers crossed this does the trick.
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Today I completed adding the main topmast stay, main topmast preventor stay and the main topgallant mast stay. I also completed adding the two main mast back stays. I am now ready to add the all the shrouds, lanyards and ratlines to the foremast assembly. I expect this will take me around a week to complete before moving on to adding the various yards. I have attached a few pictures showing the current state of play. Experimenting with the Cutter Alert packing box as the backdrop Main topmast and main topgallant mast stays Main mast backstays Belaying of main mast stays I have also taken delivery of the Cutter Alert from Vanguard Models which I will start build in earnest once the DOK is complete. I think this will be a nice filler project as we all wait for the release of Chris's next design (Sphinx) in a few months time.
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The Cutter Alert kit arrived safe and sound this morning. I have made a very quick video of the kit's contents which can be found on YouTube. Work will be slow to start with on this kit as I am currently rigging the Duchess of Kingston which should take me around another 4 to 6 weeks to complete.
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Work is progressing well on adding the main topmast stay and main topmast preventor stay. Each of these stays are secured at the deck using 1 x 4mm double block and 1 x 3mm single block arrangement. To start with the 3mm block requires a hook and loop at either end. A length of 0.1mm natural thread is then fed through the loop and secured. A picture of a completed arrangement is shown below. The 4mm double block requires a single loop which the stay line will be seized to. To start with I secured a length of 0.25mm black thread around the 4mm double block using a simple reef knot. Next I formed a loop, noting the loop is on the big side to start with With a spare length of 0.75mm black thread the loop is closed up to the right size and then a drop of ca gel is applied to the knot. The 4mm double block is then added to the main topmast stay line Once the 4mm block has been secured the 3mm block positioned and the natural thread is thread through one side of the 4mm double block Tension is then applied to all the lines as the thread is then passed through the 3mm block and then back through the 4mm double block. All the lines are then readjusted as necessary before finally belaying the 0.1mm natural thread.
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I have now completed adding the shrouds and ratlines to the main mast. I did find it tricky to tie off the topgallant shroud line to the lower deadeyes but managed to do so eventually. The fore topgallant mast is missing in the following photo as I damaged it when rigging the main mast. Thankfully it was a fairly easy task to remove it. DOK Main topmast and topgallant shrouds Next on the agenda will be to add both the top main mast and topgallant mast backstays. After that I will move on to adding the main topmast stay, main topmast preventor stay and main topgallant mast stay before starting work adding all the shrouds the foremast assembly.
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