Glenn-UK

Work continues on the slow and painstaking task of adding the various blocks to the mast assemblies. I have completed adding everything to the mizzen mast today and this is now ready for the rigging phase. The main and fore masts are almost complete, each require just 6 more blocks adding to complete (topsail ties x 2, topsail yard lifts x 2 & topgallant yard lifts x 2). It is a time consuming task to add each block. I have opted to make each pair on one length of thread which I have found to be better when positioning and securing to the mast. I should have these made and added to the masts by the end of week.(Sunday). If everything goes to plan I intend to start the rigging phase on Monday morning, starting with the Anchor Hawse Thread and followed by adding the bowsprit gammoning and bowsprit stays.

As indicated in my previous post I was thinking of trying a 2nd method for the fore and main yard double block yard lifts. When in doubt I should have gone to my book of reference, which is Rigging Period Ships by Lennarth Petersson. I have found this to be a very useful book. Under the section about the yard lifts it shows the following picture Armed with this I decided to ditch my previous yard lift double blocks and started a fresh. I held a 3mm block using my quad hands and secured the thread using a standard reef knot. Next I positioned the 5mm block next to the 3mm block. The quad hands proved to be really useful for this task. With the 5mm block in place I secured it in position using a reef knot. I did adjust the thread shown in the picture below so it sat in the grove. I then applied the seizing to the thread between the two blocks, as shown in the illustration provided in the book, using thin black fly tying thread. The end result was a much better looking double block arrangement for both the fore and main yard lifts. I did trim the seizing thread ends a bit more after I took the following photo.

Thanks. I understand your method. I think my 2nd method will yield similar results.

I am in the process of adding the all the blocks and deadeyes to fore, main and mizzen masts, including their respective top and top gallant masts. It feels like I am doing a lot of work but I'm making very little progress. That said I should have completed this in the next day or two and can then make a start on adding the standing and running rigging. This afternoon I have made both the 2 x fore yard lifts and 2 x main yard lifts. Each of these lifts requires a 3mm and a 5mm single block. I was not sure how to go about this task. I have detailed my first method below. I found this method was relatively straightforward and both blocks were secured together as one assembly. I do have another idea for securing the two blocks together, without adding the seizing which I will try in the morning. Method 1 - Seizing Blocks I started with the 3mm block which I held in place, using the quad hands. Using the thin fly tying thread I added three loops of seizing, using half hitch knots top and and bottom. Next I positioned the 5mm block and clamped the thread in place Using top and bottom half hitches I seized the 5mm block in place As I was using white seizing thread I applied a touch of black between the two blocks. After about an hours effort I had completed all 4 yard lifts, which now just need to be tied to the masts. Method 2 - Not yet tried but will reduce the gap between blocks a) Secure a 3mm block with thread using a reef knot. b) Add the 5mm block, and clamp the thread in place c) Secure a 5mm block with thread using a reef knot (or maybe add a seizing).

Nice work

I know what you mean, rings would be accurate but as I am only adding partial cannon rigging for decoration purposes I think the lack of rings will not be noticed once the standing and running rigging has been completed. I have no plans to move my cannons either.

Thanks Jim, I will be starting the main rigging in the next week or two.

Much appreciated. I have been rigging my cannons following your method. I have found the fly tying thread a really improvement for my seizing.

Today I have started to rig the cannons. I am undecided if I will add the inhaul tackle but I have added the breach rope to the first 3 cannons. I started by seizing an eyebolt to a length of natural thread, using black fly tying thread, as can be seen in the photo Once I had seized the eyebolt I threaded the breach rope through the two cannon eyebolts and then set about seizing the other eyebolt. I have tried to show this in the next picture, which is a little bit blurry. The end result The cannon was then place on deck and the eyebolts inserted in the two holes on the bulwalks.

Great work as always. I would love to see a side on picture of your wire catherpins😀

All work on the lower masts and lower platforms is now complete. I did not encounter any problems with completing this aspect. Speedy is hiding in the background With regards to adding the wolding to the fore and main mast it was a straightforward task. I started by marking the various position, using tape. Next I took a length of black thread and clamped the loop. I added 5 full turns and then 6th turn was feed through the loop, as shown in the plan drawing. To finish off I applied a very diluted solution of pva over the wolding. It took me around 10 mins to per mast to complete. Once that was I done I added the cleats, deadeyes and blocks to the fore and main masts.

Thanks Rusty. I should be starting the rigging in the next couple of weeks, just a little bit bit work left on the yards and masts. Also the 6 cannons need rigging. Busy times ahead.

I think we all had the same problem. The kit is supplied with spare legs.

I am currently adding the deadeyes to the channels, the starboard side is complete. With previous builds I secured the strops in the channels using a 2 part epoxy resin glue. For this build I have opted for a different method which I have detailed below. There may be better ways to tackle this task, but I found this method worked really well. I added the 6 off (per side) 3mm deadeyes to the channels first and then added the 9 off (per side) 5mm deadeyes. Step 1 - The strop was bent into shape prior to being placed in the channel. I used my round nose pliers for this task. Step 2 - With the strop in position I used a 0.5mm drill to make the hole in the hull for the pin. I found this to be the most fiddly part of the process. Where possible I used a full length pin but in some cases this was not possible so I used a shortened pin. Step 3 - I did apply a touch of pva behind the strop and on the pin shaft as the pin was inserted. Once the pin was fully inserted the excess pva was wiped away. Step 4 - pva was added to the channels slots around the strop. I found it best to use a fine paint brush for this step. Once I was happy I had the slots had plenty of glue the excess pva was wiped away. As the glue cured and dropped a bit in the channel slots I did add more pva as can be seen in the next photo where all the deadeyes have been fitted to the channels and I have topped up some of the slots with pva.

Great work

Well done, looks very nice. I really enjoying making the masts and yards, which is still very much work in progress interspersed with fitting the deadeye and strops to the channels which is quite fiddly when drilling the holes in the hull for the pins.

At an outrageous cost of £20.00 for materials and about 2 hours of my time and effort I have designed and built a bespoke serving machine. I have not tried it out as yet, but it was a fun project.

I have added all the cleats and footrope stirrup's to the mizzen yards. I was planning on adding the blocks and then moving on to the main and fore yards. However I got a bit side tracked as I have been thinking about serving the lanyards. Chuck is unable to ship his serving machine from the USA to the UK due to COVID so I have bought some gears and some brass tubing and I will now see if I can build one myself. Then I thought about the best way to add the lanyards, i.e.: a) with a full assembled mast installed add the lanyards, seizing them around the masts, as indicated in the manual b) add the lanyards prior to installation of the mast assembly c) Install the masts in turn, adding the lanyards before the mast cap is fitted, which is my normal method As I continue to ponder the lanyards I decided to complete platform assemblies. Mizzen mast platform installed I then added all the channels to the hull. This was a bit more time consuming than I first thought, as it was essential to ensure the channel support pins matched the holes provided in the hull. I used a 0.5mm drill to add the support pin holes in the channels. I also ran the 0.5mm drill through the hull holes to get a bit more depth for the support pins. Mizzen channel test fit The channels require a total of 12 x 3mm deadeyes and 18 x 5mm deadeyes. I drilled each 3mm deadeye lanyard hole with a 0.6mm drill and each 5mm deadeye lanyard hole with a 0.7mm drill which should aid the lanyard rigging. I used my round nose pliers to stretch the strops so the deadeyes could be fitted and then used them again to close the strop around the deadeye. 3mm deadeye and strop assembly 3mm & 5 deadeye and strop assembly, a couple of deadeyes need to realigned.

I took a quick picture this morning with the spritsail pinned in place, this will be removed and glued and lashed in place during the rigging phase. On with adding fixtures and fittings to all the yards and tapering. My fly tying thread has now been dispatched so I will also look at the rigging of the 6 off cannons when that arrives.

Thanks Rusty. I think I will fix in place and add the gammoning once the foremast lanyards / ratlines have been completed as I think, looking at the bowsprit rigging plans, will be easier.

Matt They are certainly are very small, but not too bad with the magnifier headset. The quad hands are also a very useful tool

Thanks Matt, it was all straightforward, apart from the deadeye ring assembly which did test my patience and eyesight.

JIBBOOM The jibboom required a 3mm single block adding. I ran a 0.6mm drill through the 3mm block holes to help when the rigging is added. I seized a length of black thread to the 3mm block which was then attached to the jibboom. Seized block on Jibboom BOWSPRIT The bowsprit requires the following items to be fitted: a) 11 x cleats b) 1 x bowsprit fairlead c) 2 x bowsprit bees d) 1 x jibboom saddle e) 1 x 5mm deadeye f) 1 ring comprising 1 x 5mm deadeye and 3 x 3mm deadeyes. g) 1 ring comprising 1 x 5mm deadeye and 1 x 3mm deadeye. As indicated in a previous post one I had already added a centre line to the bowsprit dowel. The positions of the cleats, bowsprit fairlead, bowsprit bees and jibboom saddle were marked and then glued in place, using wood glue. Picture of Bowsprit with fittings added I seized the three 5mm deadeyes and attached the single one to the bowsprit. Picture of seized deadeye 3 x 5mm deadeyes seized, bowsprit and jibboom also shown I then moved on to making the ring of 4 deadeyes. I had marked a piece of tape with the approx. positions of the various deadeyes. I started by adding the 3mm deadeye in the 4 o’clock position. I used the method detailed by Derek (DELF) in his Speedy log. The 3mm block was seized but before any ca was applied and the ends trimmed. Following the method detailed by Derek I was able to adjust position of the deadeye, first by checking with the tape markings and then double checking with it position on the bowsprit. I applied a touch of ca and trimmed the seizing ends once I was happy with its position on the ring. I repeated the process to add the 3mm deadeye in the 8 o’clock position. Starting to make loop for 8 o'clock 3mm deadeye. Using quad hands 8 o'clock deadeye loop formed and ready for deadeye and adjustment to correct position Deadeyes now fitted and ready for final 6 o'clock deadeye I applied a small touch of ca gel to the two cleats and applied tension to the ring and pushed it into the cleats. I was able to add the final 3mm deadeye in the 6 o’clock position. The 3mm deadeye in the 6 o’clock position was seized on the same thread as the 5mm deadeye for the 2-deadeye ring. I checked it was in the right place, prior to securing to ca and trimming the excess thread, first by the marks on the tape and then by positioning it on the bowsprit. I applied a small touch of ca gel to the two cleats and applied tension to the ring thread and pushed it into the cleats. A reef knot was used to complete the process. I fitted the 6 off eyebolts to the bowsprit cap; a 0.7mm hole was drilled for each eyebolt. I did fit the 3 off 3mm blocks, two on the bottom pair of side eyebolts and one to the bottom eyebolt before they were added to the bowsprit cap. I included a loop on the bottom 3mm block. I used the same method for adding a loop to a block as detailed in Derek’s (DELF) Speedy build log. The bowsprit cap was then glued in place, again using wood glue. The ends of the bowsprit and jibboom were both then painted black, covering the area from the bowsprit cap to the first set of cleats. Finally, the jibboom was attached to the bowsprit, with wood glue applied to the jibboom saddle and bowsprit cap hole and finished off with the strapping. Bowsprit and Jibboom dry fitted - gammoning still to be added Bowsprit and Jibboom dry fitted - gammoning still to be added

Nice work Rusty. I am going to experiment with adding the rear tackle with custom made hooks. I am not adding the side tackle.

Thanks Rusty. I like to share my methods, even though they may not be the best way to do things. Hopefully they will provide some help.