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Glenn-UK

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  1. Glenn-UK
    Thanks, I should have at looked at pictures closer. I can now see the pins.
  2. Glenn-UK
    I'm not I understand what you meant when you said "It is also pinned through the pear." Nice looking work bench. Mine gets a clean and tidy every couple of weeks, though I do try to be tidy but fail repeatedly 🤣
  3. Glenn-UK
    I really love your attention to detail. Very impressive.
  4. Glenn-UK
    Great build information, and very nice looking cannons.
  5. Glenn-UK
    I was experimenting with a photo editor this morning and decided to import a selection of my build photo's into a video. The build sequence goes a bit awry at times, due to an error when initially saving the photo's. I thought I would upload the video to YouTube, see link below. https://youtu.be/81qTGQlQoGA I would like to try to make some video's showing some of my build methods. As I only use my phone to take the pictures / videos I have to rely on the auto focus feature. I have found, at times, the phone does not focus where I would like. I have used the back of the plan drawings to try to overcome this issue which has helped to a degree. I have now bought a photo backdrop kit to try to improve the quality of my photos further. I have completed adding the top mast and top gallant mast shrouds to the starboard side and I only have two deadeye to fit to the port side main top mast shrouds before I add the ratlines. I will then add the two back stays. Once that is complete I will move on to adding the foremast shrouds, ratlines and stays. Once that is complete all that remains is adding the various yards. Fingers crossed I will complete this model by the end of the month. I have the Cutter Alert waiting in the wings which will fill the void until the Sphinx kit is released.
  6. Glenn-UK
    Nice work. It will not long before you start adding the rigging.
  7. Glenn-UK
    Great work, and I'm glad my method has helped you. I have learnt so much from your build which has greatly improved my rigging skills. Thanks Glenn
  8. Glenn-UK
    Hello John. I had noticed that when I started to add the next lanyard. Many thanks and a great spot. It has been corrected.
  9. Glenn-UK
    Thanks Theodosius. I did apply some tension to the lines as they were rigged. Before adding the final securing knot I pulled the lines in turn to get additional tension. Very similar to tensioning lanyards, just a few more line to pull.
  10. Glenn-UK
    Hopefully the Alert build time will fit in perfectly with the Sphinx release date, no pressure Jim😃. I am planning a slightly differerent build sequence for the Alert and I will also use the Alert to refine and improve my modelling skills.
  11. Glenn-UK
    Thanks Rusty, the shroud work is slow progress but I think it will be completed in the next couple of weeks.
  12. Glenn-UK
    I have just ordered the HM Alert (V2) from Vanguard Models and I am looking forward to receiving the kit next week (UPS delivery scheduled for Tuesday 6th April). I am currently rigging the Duchess of Kingston (Vanguard Models) which should be completed in a few weeks time. I choose the Alert for my next build as I think it will fit the gap between the completion of the DOK build and the release of the Sphinx kit from Vanguard Models release in few months time.
  13. Glenn-UK
    As work progresses on adding the main top mast shrouds I thought I would share my methods. I started by cutting a 40cm length of black 0.75mm thread. This was wrapped around the top of the main mast to create the first two shroud lines. The quad hands were used to tension the shroud, as shown in the photo below. The photo also provide a nice vista of the view from my ship yard. Using the top and bottom half hitch method with 0.25mm black thread I applied the seizing to secure the shroud. I opted for 6 top and 5 bottom half hitches. The end result of the seizing is shown in the next photo. It took approx. 30 minutes to add the 4 shroud line pairs. Next it was time to add the 3mm deadeyes. The first task is to form a hole for the deadeye. To do this I used my deadeye jig, as described in an earlier post. In the photo below the jig has been position and the first shroud line wrapped around it. To keep the tension in the shroud line I have used a pair of reverse action tweezers attached to the end of the shroud line. Using the black fly tying thread I was able to form the hole in the shroud. It was then then a simple task to fit the deadeye in said hole. It is a nice snug fit. The next task was to add whipping to the shroud line. I held the deadeye in the quad hands and adjusted the position to ensure the line was tensioned. I then cut a length of 0.1mm natural thread and started the process of adding top and bottom half hitch knots. I added 5 top and 5 bottom knots and in next to no time the task was complete. A 15cm length of 0.1mm natural thread was cut for the lanyard which was then threaded through both deadeyes. The shroud line was tensioned as the lanyards were adjusted. The thread was then passed through a small gap between the top of the deadeye. The shroud line and will tied off later on once the final tensioning process has been completed. The above process is now to be repeated for the 7 remaining shroud lines.
  14. Glenn-UK
    I have now completed adding all the shrouds, ratlines and stays to the mizzen mast and mizzen top mast. The mizzen is now ready for the yards. Before fitting the yards I will have to complete adding the shrouds, ratlines and stays to the main and fore masts. Tomorrow I will start work on adding the shrouds and ratlines to the main topmast, followed by the main top gallant mast. This is a picture taken as I was adding the mizzen top mast ratlines. I quite like adding ratlines. I start with the bottom ratline, then I add the middle one and then I add the top one. I then fill in the gaps in stages. Once I am happy with the position I coat the ratlines and shrouds with a 50/50 diluted pva solution. After all the ratlines have been added I dyed the lines black. Picture showing the shrouds, ratlines and stays. Another picture showing the shrouds, ratlines and stays.
  15. Glenn-UK
    Great to see the progress, you are doing a great job. This looks to be a brilliant kit.
  16. Glenn-UK
    Following on from yesterdays post I have now completed adding the main mast crows feet rigging. I started by taking a 3m length of 0.1mm natural thread. There are 18 holes in the main mast platform. To ensure I finished with the thread running through the last platform hole nearest to me I started the rigging up through the 10th hole, then I passed the thread through the euproe back towards me then I fed it down platform hole 9 then back up platform hole 8 back and then back through the next hole in the euproe etc. Picture of the start of the rigging As the rigging progressed the more observant will see I made a error with the threading pattern which meant I had to unthread it all and start again. I did not waste much time thankfully. 2nd time around and everything is looking better, no mistakes so far! After a few more minutes the rigging was finally completed. I will start to add the shrouds to the mizzen top mast next.
  17. Glenn-UK
    Today I thought I would detail my work on the main mast Euproe assembly. I will follow this up with the rigging of the main mast crows feet in a separate post. The assembly consists of 2 x 2mm blocks and 1 x euproe photo etched part which I blacken using a burnishing product. I ran a 0.5mm micro drill through both the 2mm blocks to help with the threading the rigging thread. Using 0.1mm natural thread this was seized this to the 2 2mm blocks using black fly tying thread. Stage 1 - Setting up the 1st 2mm block in the quad hands. Stage 2 - Starting the seizing. I used an alternate top and bottom half hitch method to add the seizing. I found it better to work toward the block when adding the seizing. Stage 3 Adding the euproe I ran the 0.1mm natural thread thread through the euproe hole and then seized it with black fly tying thread using an alternate top and bottom half hitch method. It produces quite a nice end result as can been seen below. Stage 4 - Rigging the blocks Once the 2 x 2mm blocks and 1 x euproe part were seized it was a simple case of running the 0.1mm rigging thread through both blocks. The assembly is now ready to be added to the Main Stay. After viewing the attached photo I did tidy up the seizing and badly cut ends on the right hand block.
  18. Glenn-UK
    The 1mm black thread I ordered has still not arrived from CMB so I am unable to progress with adding the fore mast shrouds. I therefore decided to add the main stay and the main preventer stay. I had just enough 1mm black thread left for the main stay and I used the kit supplied 1.3mm black thread for the main preventer stay. I added a little bit of serving to each stay line hold the mouse in place. Once the stays were fitted I coated the lines with a diluted solution of pva which has stiffen them up nicely. I plan to add the main mast crows feet next. Main Stay and Preventer Stay Deadeyes. I am really pleased with how they have turned out. Much improved compared with the main mast shrouds. I am starting to get the hang of this rigging malarkey.
  19. Glenn-UK
    I am currently waiting for a delivery of some additional thread from CMB (it has now been dispatched) before I can continue with the Fore Mast shrouds. I had managed to use all the kit supplied thread because I had to redo the main mast shrouds. Over the last couple of days I have added the mizzen stay and mizzen crows feet. I decided to manually serve a bit of the mizzen stay to hold the mouse in place. I have quite pleased with the end result. Mizzen Mast Crows Feet with a nice reflected shadow. Very fluffy lines (no beeswax!!!!!) They do not look fluffy to the naked eye however, Mizzen Mast Stay (again with a shadow).
  20. Glenn-UK
    A great weekend of work, very impressive looking even at this very early stage. What is the sanding tool you are using?
  21. Glenn-UK
    Work progressing slowly at the moment. Adding shrouds, futtock staves, catharpins and futtock shrouds to the main mast has proven to be a very time consuming task. It has also a really test of patience at times but as I progressed with this aspect I found my skill levels were improving. When adding the futtock stave I found the use of the quads hands to be of great benefit. I used the quad hands to hold the futtock stave in positions as whilst I seized the copper bar to the shroud lines. The attached picture shows a long length of copper held which enabled me to cut the copper bar to the required length. The following picture show the futtock stave after it has been seized and painted black. As can be seen there was still a little bit more trimming of excess thread required. The main mast is now ready and waiting for the ratlines to be added.
  22. Glenn-UK
    I also use quad hands. Has made many rigging tasks much easier
  23. Glenn-UK
    It looks very good, and thanks for the shout out.
  24. Glenn-UK
    Great to see you have started on this build, it is going to be once of my next projects after the DOK
  25. Glenn-UK
    I am happy to report that take two of the main mast shroud and lanyards work is much better. The jig used is simply a thin strip of wood fitted with two copper wire lengths set for the channel deadeye and a dowel (approx 4.8mm diameter) to represent the shroud deadeye. With the jig in place the shroud line can be wrapped around the dowel. Using some black fly tying thread I seized the shroud to make a loop for the deadeye. Picture of jig in place and shroud being siezed Completed shroud with deadeye fitted With deadeyes fitted to the first starboard shroud pair I added the lanyards, using 0.25mm natural thread. I will continue to add the deadeyes and lanyards to the other shroud lines.

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