archjofo

I wish you all a wonderful Christmas and many happy moments surrounded by your loved ones!

@druxey Yes, I turned them on my Unimat SL. The profile can certainly still be optimized.

@druxey Hello, first of all I would like to thank you for the appreciation of my work. Of course, I'll be happy to show you how I make the thimbles. I hope that the following pictures explain this as far as possible. Should there be any unanswered questions, please don't be shy and just ask.

@albert Hello, thank you for the recognition of my model.

Continuation: Standing rigging of the royal masts Meanwhile I am already installing the royal shrouds of the foremast. To keep the distances of the thimbles more or less equal, I use a correspondingly curved piece of wire for the installation. See you soon ...

@giampieroricci Thanks for the recognition. I admire your work as well. I would also like to thank everyone else for the many LIKES. Continuation: Mizzen topgallant and mizzen roayl shrouds The shrouds on the royal mast on my corvette have a model scale of 0.25 mm. The following picture shows a prepared shroud with integrated thimble (ø 0.9 mm) and the counterpart for the lanyard lashing, which is attached to the end of the crosstree of the topgallant mast. In this context I show again the thimbles I used on this model, which are made of blacked brass. The smallest thimble has a diameter of around 0.9 mm. The mast trucks that were stupidly glued in place by me when building the topgallant masts are of course extremely cumbersome when laying the shrouds and stays. It is very problematic when attaching the stay collars with the integrated thimbles. So I tried to carefully remove these mast trucks again. This worked quite well for the fore and main mast. With the mizzen mast, on the other hand, it did not work with the best will in the world without causing damage. As an alternative, I therefore tried to install the collar for the lifts of the mizzen royal yard directly on the model, which ultimately succeeded with the help of a corresponding device. I tried the first variant with a rope ø 0.35 mm for the collar and with thimbles ø 1.2 mm. The dominance of this collar on the royal mast top bothered me and seemed immeasurable to me. So I started another attempt with a rope ø 0.25 mm for the collar and with thimbles ø 0.9 mm, which now suits me much better. So the next picture shows the completed standing good of the mizzen mast, starting with the crosstrees. Which means I can then move on to the main mast to attach the royal stay and shrouds there too. I have already prepared the royal shrouds for the main and foremast with other corresponding rigging components as shown in the last picture. Up soon …

@j.guydal Bonjour Jaques, merci beaucoup pour ton commentaire positif. @druxey Hello, thank you for the compliment. Yes, it is a weather vane. In German it is also called a Verklicker. The special thing about it is that the commissioning pennant has been attached to the top of the main mast. That's what the little ring is for. I will only attach this pennant at the very end, as they are very long and would therefore be a hindrance to the rigging work.

Standing rigging of the royal masts Before I lash the boats, I would like to finish off the standing rigging as a whole. To complete the standing rigging of the royal masts (shrouds, stays), a few more detailed clarifications and preparations were required. As can be seen in the image section of the upper rigging of the original model, the royal masts are very filigree components. In the model, the royal masts are between a maximum of 2 to 3 mm thick. In the picture I have the stays marked in yellow and the royal shrouds in red. Source: Monograph by J. Boudriot, detail of the original model Since neither the plan nor the description of the monograph contain any specific information on how the edition of the royal stays and shrouds should look in detail, I tried to find relevant information in relevant sources (literature, internet). Unfortunately, I was unable to get much information on this. Somehow the stays and shrouds have to be given a fixed position. Therefore, I orientated myself on the book by KLAUS SCHRAGE - RUNDHÖLZER, RUNDHÖLZER, RUNDHÖLZER, RUNDHÖLZER UND SEGEL page 92, Fig. 255. There you can see cleats on the royal masts. Accordingly, I tried to make these cleats as suitable as possible. In the first step, the fastening of the cleats (model size 2.8 mm / 1.2 mm) had to be clarified. For this I needed tiny bolts, which I made from brass wire ø 0.25 mm using the method of a Russian model maker. Furthermore, the ropes for the royal shrouds (mizzen mast ø 0.25 mm or fore mast and main mast ø 0.35 mm) and the stays (ø 0.25 mm or ø 0.40 mm) were made with the rope making machine manufactured. There was also the question of how to manage the lifts for the royal yards. There was only one royal shroud per side. In this respect, the thimbles for the royal lifts could not be integrated. So I made a mast collar with two thimbles (ø1.2 mm). A serving of these thin ropes was not given in the original either. The stays are placed with one eye on the cleats. The stays were brought down using thimbles and fixed with lanyard lashings. I still have to clarify these fastening details. The location of the cleats on the royal masts was above the sheaves for the royal halliard, as can be seen in the following picture (mizzen royal mast). Sequel follows …

@druxey Hello, thanks for the interest and the nice comment, and all the others also for the many LIKES. Continuation: Garnet tackel - Palan d'etai To check that the garnet tackels do not collide with pendants and guys, I attached them provisionally before final assembly. As already described, there is nothing in the monograph of J. Boudriot about the attachment of the granet tackle to the tops. Accordingly, I am guided by the representations in the Atlas du Génie maritime and by the photos from the original model. Accordingly, it can be seen that the attachments of the two garnet tackels to the tops were made on the starboard side. In the next picture a single block for guidance and the pendant with the tackle can be seen in detail: After the garnet tackle installation is complete, I will begin lashing the chaloupe and pinasse. The exact details of this still need final clarification. To be continued ...

Addendum: garnet tackle - Palan d'etai I almost forgot something. Because to secure the garnet tackle, eyebolts still have to be attached to the deck. I also found out that according to the Paris model, the hauling part for the garnet tackle, which is attached directly to the mainstay, has to be led over a single block. So for this purpose some parts had to be made, which can be seen on the following picture (double block with swivel hook only for size comparison): See you soon ...

Continuation: Garnet tackle - Palan d'etai In the meantime I have finished all the components for the garnet tackles. The pendants were hung up on a specially made mast collar with a thimble. I made these hooks with thimbles using my own method. For this purpose, an 18 mm long brass rod with a diameter of 1.2 mm was turned off with a needle file on the Proxxon fine grinder so that the thickened areas were created at the corresponding points on the hooks. I made the thimbles in the tried and tested manner from brass tubes. The next picture shows the finished hooks with thimbles, not yet blackened. The other two pictures show all components of the 3 garnet tackles: - 6 double blocks, 3 of which have swivel hooks for the tackles - 4 single blocks for the guides, 2 of them with hooks - 2 guide elements - 2 mast collars (one tackle was lashed directly to the stay with an eye) - ropes ø 0.46 mm and ø 0.67 mm (original ø 32 mm or ø 22 mm) - 3 pendants ø 0.90 mm (original ø 43 mm) Sequel follows …

Hi there, the first strop for the heavy garnet tackle block with (croc à émerillon) the swivel hook is ready. The others are then produced in the same way. Quelle: Atlas du Génie maritime, annexe Nr. 1, Pl. 2

Fantastic work !

Hello John, congratulations on the very nice and very informative construction report, with many suggestions. In addition, a wonderfully built model ship.

Hello, what a fantastic work. I admire all who can do this kind of modeling. But in your case a particularly clean and precise work.

Hello, first of all, thank you all for your interest and kind comments. Also thanks to all for the many LIKES. @BobG @druxey @Keith Black @Hubac's Historian @jdbondy Hello JD, unfortunately, I do not have any pictures of it. But I will try to explain it. The bracket was soldered hard. So it was no problem to soft solder the head on the hook without melting the other one away. I hope that I have explained it understandably.

Garnet tackle - Palan d'etai The garnet tackle were generally used for loading goods, cannons and for lowering and hoisting boats. With regard to the execution of the stage tack, there are differences between the graphic representation of J. Boudriot in the monograph and the original model in the Paris Museum compared to the model of La Créole. Source: Monograph La Creole by J. Boudriot pp. 125 and 126 Source: Monograph La Creole by J. Boudriot p. 101, photo detail of the original model The execution of the garnet tackle documented in the Atlas du Génie maritime corresponds to the representation on the Paris model. Accordingly, I also do this on my La Créole model. Source: Atlas du Génie maritime, annexe no.1, pl. 50 I was able to identify another garnet tackle on the photo of the original model. I will also represent this accordingly on my model. I started the preparations for the appropriate arrangements of these rigging details with the production of the double and single blocks. A total of 6 double and 4 single blocks are to be produced. I determined the block size by scaling the drawings from the atlas in comparison with the block list from the monograph (dependency on the rope diameter), which ultimately fitted pretty well. Thus, the double blocks have a length of around 6.8 mm and the single blocks have a length of around 5.2 mm. The blocks were made in the manner that has meanwhile been tried and tested for me. In this context I would like to emphasize that, from my point of view, it makes no sense to prepare the blocks in their entirety in advance. That would be several hundred blocks for this corvette. In the meantime I have laboriously learned that all these blocks have the most varied of sizes and shapes, depending on the purpose. There are also many differences in terms of their fittings and fastening. That's why I manufacture the blocks individually based on the respective detail section. Due to the complexity of rigging, any other approach does not seem expedient to me, unless one simplifies and differentiates less, which of course is at the expense of the level of detail. Ultimately, everyone has to decide for themselves. As can be seen on the following drawing from the Atlas du Génie maritime, the French used heavy garnet tackle blocks with so-called swivel hooks (croc à émerillon). Source: Atlas du Génie maritime, annexe no.1, pl. 2 Below is a picture collage for making the swivel hooks. The majority of the required blocks, thimbles and hooks for the arrangements of the garnet tackle were made as far as can be seen in the next picture. The manufactured brass parts are of course burnished to give them an iron-like appearance. The next step is to make the garnet tackle. For this I still have to make the ropes in the appropriate strengths and serve. The necessary block strops must also be made. Sequel follows …

@glbarlow Congratulations on the completion of this fantastic model !

@jdbondy Hello, thanks for your advice. @garyshipwright Hello Gary, thank you for your appreciation. you have an admirable workroom and the height-adjustable table looks very good too. But, if I see it correctly, the lowering is limited. For the work on the upper level of the rigg, it was also very important for me to be able to lower it down far enough.

@Chuck @mbp521 Hello Chuck, hello Brian, thank you for your positive comments and to all the others for the LIKES. Continuation: Rigging work - height-adjustable work platform Today I would like to say a few words about the design of the working platform as part of the further rigging work for my French corvette. Who doesn't try to design the working environment in such a way that one can work effectively and especially ergonomically advantageous. I have therefore followed with great interest the discussions that have taken place from time to time on this subject in various forums. Especially when working on the rigging of a 1:48 scale model, one feels the need to adjust the height of the working area continuously, depending on the area of the rigging in which one is working. Adjusting the seat height or working on the model standing up has its limits. It is of course more obvious to raise or lower the model (actually even more important). As I plan to complete the difficult weaving of the shrouds in the near future, and also with a view to the further rigging work on the current property, I thought about how I could realise a stepless height adjustment of the model for my needs. Inspired by the restoration workshop of the Musée national de la Marine in Paris, where scissor lift tables are used as working platforms for the ship models, I searched the net specifically for a similar solution. The work platforms used by the Paris museum cost up to several thousand euros, which of course was out of the question for me. Source: Musée national de la Marine in Paris After some time I found what I was looking for and bought a mini scissor lift table for relatively little money, as can be seen in the following pictures: The minimum height is about 35 cm, and the working platform can be raised or lowered continuously by foot pedal to about 87 cm with a small hydraulic cylinder. This height difference is more than sufficient for my purposes, as is the load capacity with 150 kg. See you soon ...

@shipman Thank you very much for the appreciation, and all ohters für the LIKES. With unwavering perseverance and joy, here we go: Continuation: Main topgallant stay - Étai grand mât de perroquet Analogous to the mizzen topgallant stay, the main topgallant stay (ø 0.58 mm in 1:48 scale) is made and fixed, but it is not guided to the main top by a single block, but by a guide collar with integrated thimble. The guide collar, consisting of a leg strop (ø 0.35 mm in model scale 1:48) with eye splices at the ends, was completely served. The following picture shows the serving machine with the finished stropp, into which the thimble was subsequently bound. The next picture shows the finished arrangement of the main topgallant stay. The leading collar is attached with a lashing around the main topgallant mast. Before I could attach the main topgallant stay to the model, however, a small area had to be served where the lead-through is through the thimble of the guide collar. The main topgallant stay did not need this serving, because it was led through a block disk and therefore there was less danger of falling into the pubic. Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime, Annexe Pl. 1 Finally, the lashing was made and the main topgallant stay was fixed to the two-legged strop in the top. See you soon

Hello, I am very happy about the extremely nice comments from all of you and the many LIKES. That of course motivates me a lot and gives me the feeling of being part of a really great community that pursues the same interests. Thanks again for that. Continuation: Mizzen topgallant stay - Étai mât de perruche As already reported on this topic some time ago (LINK), the monograph by J. Boudriot does not reveal in detail how the mizzen topgallant stay was attached. In this respect, I orientated myself on examples from relevant literature. Before attaching the stay (model rope ø 0.46 mm), its length must be determined on the model, as it is guided over a single block (length 4 mm) and integrating the thimble on the model is not necessarily recommended. The next picture shows the finished mizzen topgallant stay and the two-legged sling (counterpart for the lanyard lashing), which is attached to the trestle trees. The lanyard for the lashing to fix the mizzen topgallant stay was set up with a simplified splice or fake splice (unfortunately I don't know the English name). In the last picture you can see the finished lanyard lashing. A corresponding enlargement in the cut-out at the top left. Sequel follows …

Hello, a solidly built hull is the best condition for a wonderful model. And it certainly will be!

@bdgiantman2 Hi there, I am happy to comply with your request. Of course, the model looks a little messy in this condition. Besides, I'm not a professional photographer. I will soon get myself a real background for taking photos so that I can bring the whole model onto the picture. I hope that you like the pictures so far.

@G. Delacroix Hello, thank you very much for the interesting contribution and that you have answered my questions so quickly. With this I can continue my work with a clear conscience.