archjofo

Hi there, the first strop for the heavy garnet tackle block with (croc à émerillon) the swivel hook is ready. The others are then produced in the same way. Quelle: Atlas du Génie maritime, annexe Nr. 1, Pl. 2

Fantastic work !

Hello John, congratulations on the very nice and very informative construction report, with many suggestions. In addition, a wonderfully built model ship.

Hello, what a fantastic work. I admire all who can do this kind of modeling. But in your case a particularly clean and precise work.

Hello, first of all, thank you all for your interest and kind comments. Also thanks to all for the many LIKES. @BobG @druxey @Keith Black @Hubac's Historian @jdbondy Hello JD, unfortunately, I do not have any pictures of it. But I will try to explain it. The bracket was soldered hard. So it was no problem to soft solder the head on the hook without melting the other one away. I hope that I have explained it understandably.

Garnet tackle - Palan d'etai The garnet tackle were generally used for loading goods, cannons and for lowering and hoisting boats. With regard to the execution of the stage tack, there are differences between the graphic representation of J. Boudriot in the monograph and the original model in the Paris Museum compared to the model of La Créole. Source: Monograph La Creole by J. Boudriot pp. 125 and 126 Source: Monograph La Creole by J. Boudriot p. 101, photo detail of the original model The execution of the garnet tackle documented in the Atlas du Génie maritime corresponds to the representation on the Paris model. Accordingly, I also do this on my La Créole model. Source: Atlas du Génie maritime, annexe no.1, pl. 50 I was able to identify another garnet tackle on the photo of the original model. I will also represent this accordingly on my model. I started the preparations for the appropriate arrangements of these rigging details with the production of the double and single blocks. A total of 6 double and 4 single blocks are to be produced. I determined the block size by scaling the drawings from the atlas in comparison with the block list from the monograph (dependency on the rope diameter), which ultimately fitted pretty well. Thus, the double blocks have a length of around 6.8 mm and the single blocks have a length of around 5.2 mm. The blocks were made in the manner that has meanwhile been tried and tested for me. In this context I would like to emphasize that, from my point of view, it makes no sense to prepare the blocks in their entirety in advance. That would be several hundred blocks for this corvette. In the meantime I have laboriously learned that all these blocks have the most varied of sizes and shapes, depending on the purpose. There are also many differences in terms of their fittings and fastening. That's why I manufacture the blocks individually based on the respective detail section. Due to the complexity of rigging, any other approach does not seem expedient to me, unless one simplifies and differentiates less, which of course is at the expense of the level of detail. Ultimately, everyone has to decide for themselves. As can be seen on the following drawing from the Atlas du Génie maritime, the French used heavy garnet tackle blocks with so-called swivel hooks (croc à émerillon). Source: Atlas du Génie maritime, annexe no.1, pl. 2 Below is a picture collage for making the swivel hooks. The majority of the required blocks, thimbles and hooks for the arrangements of the garnet tackle were made as far as can be seen in the next picture. The manufactured brass parts are of course burnished to give them an iron-like appearance. The next step is to make the garnet tackle. For this I still have to make the ropes in the appropriate strengths and serve. The necessary block strops must also be made. Sequel follows …

@glbarlow Congratulations on the completion of this fantastic model !

@jdbondy Hello, thanks for your advice. @garyshipwright Hello Gary, thank you for your appreciation. you have an admirable workroom and the height-adjustable table looks very good too. But, if I see it correctly, the lowering is limited. For the work on the upper level of the rigg, it was also very important for me to be able to lower it down far enough.

@Chuck @mbp521 Hello Chuck, hello Brian, thank you for your positive comments and to all the others for the LIKES. Continuation: Rigging work - height-adjustable work platform Today I would like to say a few words about the design of the working platform as part of the further rigging work for my French corvette. Who doesn't try to design the working environment in such a way that one can work effectively and especially ergonomically advantageous. I have therefore followed with great interest the discussions that have taken place from time to time on this subject in various forums. Especially when working on the rigging of a 1:48 scale model, one feels the need to adjust the height of the working area continuously, depending on the area of the rigging in which one is working. Adjusting the seat height or working on the model standing up has its limits. It is of course more obvious to raise or lower the model (actually even more important). As I plan to complete the difficult weaving of the shrouds in the near future, and also with a view to the further rigging work on the current property, I thought about how I could realise a stepless height adjustment of the model for my needs. Inspired by the restoration workshop of the Musée national de la Marine in Paris, where scissor lift tables are used as working platforms for the ship models, I searched the net specifically for a similar solution. The work platforms used by the Paris museum cost up to several thousand euros, which of course was out of the question for me. Source: Musée national de la Marine in Paris After some time I found what I was looking for and bought a mini scissor lift table for relatively little money, as can be seen in the following pictures: The minimum height is about 35 cm, and the working platform can be raised or lowered continuously by foot pedal to about 87 cm with a small hydraulic cylinder. This height difference is more than sufficient for my purposes, as is the load capacity with 150 kg. See you soon ...

@shipman Thank you very much for the appreciation, and all ohters für the LIKES. With unwavering perseverance and joy, here we go: Continuation: Main topgallant stay - Étai grand mât de perroquet Analogous to the mizzen topgallant stay, the main topgallant stay (ø 0.58 mm in 1:48 scale) is made and fixed, but it is not guided to the main top by a single block, but by a guide collar with integrated thimble. The guide collar, consisting of a leg strop (ø 0.35 mm in model scale 1:48) with eye splices at the ends, was completely served. The following picture shows the serving machine with the finished stropp, into which the thimble was subsequently bound. The next picture shows the finished arrangement of the main topgallant stay. The leading collar is attached with a lashing around the main topgallant mast. Before I could attach the main topgallant stay to the model, however, a small area had to be served where the lead-through is through the thimble of the guide collar. The main topgallant stay did not need this serving, because it was led through a block disk and therefore there was less danger of falling into the pubic. Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime, Annexe Pl. 1 Finally, the lashing was made and the main topgallant stay was fixed to the two-legged strop in the top. See you soon

Hello, I am very happy about the extremely nice comments from all of you and the many LIKES. That of course motivates me a lot and gives me the feeling of being part of a really great community that pursues the same interests. Thanks again for that. Continuation: Mizzen topgallant stay - Étai mât de perruche As already reported on this topic some time ago (LINK), the monograph by J. Boudriot does not reveal in detail how the mizzen topgallant stay was attached. In this respect, I orientated myself on examples from relevant literature. Before attaching the stay (model rope ø 0.46 mm), its length must be determined on the model, as it is guided over a single block (length 4 mm) and integrating the thimble on the model is not necessarily recommended. The next picture shows the finished mizzen topgallant stay and the two-legged sling (counterpart for the lanyard lashing), which is attached to the trestle trees. The lanyard for the lashing to fix the mizzen topgallant stay was set up with a simplified splice or fake splice (unfortunately I don't know the English name). In the last picture you can see the finished lanyard lashing. A corresponding enlargement in the cut-out at the top left. Sequel follows …

Hello, a solidly built hull is the best condition for a wonderful model. And it certainly will be!

@bdgiantman2 Hi there, I am happy to comply with your request. Of course, the model looks a little messy in this condition. Besides, I'm not a professional photographer. I will soon get myself a real background for taking photos so that I can bring the whole model onto the picture. I hope that you like the pictures so far.

@G. Delacroix Hello, thank you very much for the interesting contribution and that you have answered my questions so quickly. With this I can continue my work with a clear conscience.

Hello, I have not yet come to the assembly of the mizzen topmast preventer stay and main mast preventer stay. I still have to finish these steps and will of course report on them. At the moment I am dealing with the detail clarification for the following stays: Mizzen topgallant stay and main topgallant stay - Étai mât de perruche et Étai grand mât de perroquet The mizzen topgallant stay of La Créole had a diameter of 22 mm, the main topgallant stay 28 mm (recalculated according to G. Lacroix method). Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime, Annexe Pl. 1 These stays did not have open eyes like the top mast stays (Fig. 1). The collar was spliced directly to the stay (Fig. 2) and served accordingly. Based on the illustration in the atlas (1860), I assume that these stays, also due to their small diameters, were made as hawser laid rope. Unfortunately, I did not find corresponding information in the monograph on La Créole, also not regarding the continuations and fixations on the respective tops. Also on the picture material available to me I cannot see any indications in this respect. Only to the mizzen topgallant stay I have read in the monograph that this is led down to Mars via a single block, which was attached to the mast cap. About the attachment of the stay again nothing concrete can be taken from the description. Therefore a few questions arise in this connection, which I try to bring to a clarification. In addition first the following representation for the overview of these two stays: Source: Monograph "La Creole" by J. Boudriot, p. 129 My research gave, as shown graphically above, from my point of view a conceivable fixing possibility for these stays (numbers of the overview assigned) on the respective crosstrees. In my opinion, the main topgallant stay could be forwarded by means of a collar (number 3) with a thimble. To what extent this way of fixing and forwarding the stays for the La Créole is historically correct, I could not find out. Therefore I would be grateful for any hints and your valued opinion. See you soon ...

Hello, here it goes on after a small creative break: In the meantime I have made the ropes for the main topmast preventer stay (Ø 0.63 mm) and mizzen topmast preventer stay (Ø 0.50 mm). In principle, these are attached as shown in the following sketch. Source: Internet unknown This method of attachment was described in the monograph by J. Boudriot. I hope that I have interpreted it correctly. Accordingly, the collars were prepared with thimbles. At the corresponding places the stays are served. Shortly I will show how they are then mounted on the model.

Hello Doris, to conclude your wonderful model I would like to express again that I admire your way of model building very much. The Royal Katherine is a model ship of the highest level. Congratulations on the magnificent model and I hope that you will not let us wait too long with a new project. Or does it already exist and I missed it?

Hi JD, Sorry, I only got around to answering you today. You are right, these are prepared hypodermic needles. I rounded off the sides to prevent the yarn from being cut. Thank you for your interest.

Ratlines for the topmast shrouds The topmast shrouds were thinner than the lower shrouds (comparison on the model: Fore mast shrouds ø 1.08 mm / fore topmast shrouds ø 0.66 mm), their ratlines are also to be made with smaller diameters in proportion, which is the result of earlier research. Some time ago, I tried to clarify whether the required eye splices could be made with a thickness of ø 0.25 mm. For this purpose I made a splicing tool with a smaller diameter ø 0.8 mm, as shown in the next picture. The fake splice (2x sticking through) with a dew thickness of ø 0.25 mm was already quite successful at that time. In the following picture you can see the comparison of the ratlines thickness again.I don't like the simpler alternative version with knots, because it is too thick and doesn't correspond to the original version. In the meantime I have found the time and muse to make these filigree ratlines with the fake splice directly on the model. It has to be said that this is an extremely difficult job, but it can be done. In my opinion, the result speaks for itself. In this respect it is worth the effort. But now we will continue with mizzen topmast stay. I still have to find out how it was attached. I would be very grateful for any information. See you soon ...

@jdbondy Many thanks ! In the meantime, the rope for the mizzen topmast stay was made from fine silk yarn, three strands are laid up right handed to form a hawser laid rope with ø 0.77 mm in model scale, which corresponds to ø 37 mm in the original. A guide collar was also made, as for the main topmast stay, to guide it down along the mast for attachment. As already mentioned for the main topmast stay, this detail needed further clarification, which has now been done. Behind both the foremast and the mainmast was a set of guide blocks, which were carried on an iron rod. The respective stay was attached in the middle to this iron rod, which was fastened to the deck with three holders.For this purpose, the iron rod was inserted through the thimbles tied into the stays. Here you can see the binding of a thimble: The following three pictures show the mizzen topmast stay from the top to the attachment point: The following are three pictures of the main topmast stay from the top to the attachment point at the guide blocks: To be continued ...

@Jeronimo Hi Karl, many thanks for the nice comment. Main topmast stay - Étai grand mât de hune The main topmast stay of the La Créole had a diameter of 43 mm, which corresponds to a diameter of 0.89 mm in model scale 1:48. I made the corresponding rope from the finest Japanese silk yarn from Yli; 4 x 3 righthanded, and then these 3 strands were laid to the left to form a cable. The next picture shows the main topmast stay with the open stay eye and the eyes spliced into the legs. Next to it is the prepared guide collar with thimble, which is placed around the masthead and then lashed down. The main topmast stay is led through the thimble in the guide collar down to the deck and fastened there. I still have to finalise this detail. To be continued ...

@G. Delacroix Hello, Fantastic, finally a concrete statement. Thank you very much for the competent information. That makes me really happy.

@druxey Hello, thank you for your words of appreciation. @Dowmer @Dziadeczek I would like to thank you both very much for the important advice. It helps me further.

@Jorge Diaz O Hello, I am particularly pleased with your last post. I would like to thank you very much for that. Hello, and here it goes on: Fore topgallant stay - Étai petit mât de perroquet In preparing to make the fore topgallant stay, the following question needs clarification and I hope for your expert assistance to clarify it: In the monograph for La Créole, a diameter of 40 mm is given for the fore topgallant stay, not only in the overview with rigging plan but also in the text. The fore topmast stay has a diameter of 41 mm. In this respect, the fore topgallant stay with a diameter of 40 mm seems to me to be much too thick. In my opinion, the stay should be be much thinner, perhaps around 19 mm in diameter. What do you think?

@GrandpaPhil @Gahm @allanyed Many thanks for the nice comments und all the others for the LIKES. Fore topmast stay - Étai petit mât de hune According to my announcement in the last post, I am dealing with the topmast stays. So I prepared the assembly for the fore topmast stay. According to my original assumption that a left-hand rope was used here, this is obviously not the case according to my current research. The stay had a diameter of 41 mm in the original, which corresponds to 0.85 mm in model scale. The fore topmast stay is attached in the same way as the main stay. This requires an open eye. The two legs are spliced into the stay. Finally, the ends receive spliced-in eyes, which then receive a lashing, as can be seen in the following picture. For comparison, I have laid a rope next to it that corresponds to the mainstay. The fore topmast stay was routed on the starboard side of the bowsprit top via stay sheave to the bow for fastening by means of thimble and eyebolt. The area of the stay that was led around the sheave was served. Source: Atlas du Génie Maritime Source: Original model in the Musée de la Marine Paris The lashings for the fore topmast stay have to be applied directly to the model, as it is then no longer possible to pass the rope through the sheave cleat. The next picture shows the eyebolt with thimble of the stay attachment on the forecastle. Here you can see the guidance of the stage over the side sheaves with the served areas. The last picture shows the fore topmast stay on the topmast crosstrees. To be continued ...