Bill Hime
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Bill Hime reacted to DocBlake in Armed Virginia Sloop by Hill202 - Model Shipways - scale 1:48
Joe: You mention "chapter one". Are you using Bob Hunt's Lauck Street practicum to build your AVS? If so, you can join his forum, where I posted my full build log for my AVS. My log, and several others are there that were never posted here at MSW. My MSW log is really the very end of the build and doesn't show very much.
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Bill Hime got a reaction from Elijah in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
Dave,
What a beautiful build! love the wood choices as well. Also very clean!!! This is an excellent tutorial
Bill
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Bill Hime reacted to PamW in Armed Virginia Sloop by PamW - scale 1/24 - enlarged Model Shipways plans
I bought some sample wood to play around with until the poplar and walnut come from Ocooch hardwoods.
I got maple, birch, cherry
They didn't have teak...I'll have to go elsewhere.
Tomorrow I'm going to drag out the lil table saw and mess around ripping deck planks.
Pamela
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Bill Hime got a reaction from Altduck in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
Dave,
What a beautiful build! love the wood choices as well. Also very clean!!! This is an excellent tutorial
Bill
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Bill Hime reacted to PamW in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
If I use teak decking careful planning for all the hull planking to enhance each others color rather than contrast them
Pamela
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Bill Hime got a reaction from phebe in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
The more tannin a wood contains the higher it's propensity to react (oxidize) in the presence of UV light. I've not worked with Bloodwood at such small scale.
Managing moisture content of your woods is everything. As I do for furniture, etc.. I maintain color matched pieces together and don't cut them until I'm ready to use them. I think especially for cutting planking/decking, I would cut them 24-48 hours before use. this gives any stress in the grain a chance to relax, but keep them bundled and straight.
I am building a "humidor" for the new shipyard to store my materials while they await to be used in the build I'll post the construction of the humidor when I start it.
Teak, would be interesting. It has a pretty open grain pattern. I would think as with any wood, a careful selection of the pieces chosen would be worth trying on a larger scale model
Bill
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Bill Hime got a reaction from phebe in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
Good morning Mike!
Yellowheart..and Redheart are really nice woods. Their grain is tight and linear. I have ripped down some test planks/decking strips, it is flexible, holds a nice crisp edge.
Over time they will both fade a bit with a grayish hue. Proper sealing and finishing to really close up the wood's cells can minimize this. The fading is more dramatic if continuously exposed to sun light.
Bill
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Bill Hime got a reaction from Canute in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
The more tannin a wood contains the higher it's propensity to react (oxidize) in the presence of UV light. I've not worked with Bloodwood at such small scale.
Managing moisture content of your woods is everything. As I do for furniture, etc.. I maintain color matched pieces together and don't cut them until I'm ready to use them. I think especially for cutting planking/decking, I would cut them 24-48 hours before use. this gives any stress in the grain a chance to relax, but keep them bundled and straight.
I am building a "humidor" for the new shipyard to store my materials while they await to be used in the build I'll post the construction of the humidor when I start it.
Teak, would be interesting. It has a pretty open grain pattern. I would think as with any wood, a careful selection of the pieces chosen would be worth trying on a larger scale model
Bill
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Bill Hime got a reaction from Canute in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
Good morning Mike!
Yellowheart..and Redheart are really nice woods. Their grain is tight and linear. I have ripped down some test planks/decking strips, it is flexible, holds a nice crisp edge.
Over time they will both fade a bit with a grayish hue. Proper sealing and finishing to really close up the wood's cells can minimize this. The fading is more dramatic if continuously exposed to sun light.
Bill
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Bill Hime got a reaction from mtaylor in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
The more tannin a wood contains the higher it's propensity to react (oxidize) in the presence of UV light. I've not worked with Bloodwood at such small scale.
Managing moisture content of your woods is everything. As I do for furniture, etc.. I maintain color matched pieces together and don't cut them until I'm ready to use them. I think especially for cutting planking/decking, I would cut them 24-48 hours before use. this gives any stress in the grain a chance to relax, but keep them bundled and straight.
I am building a "humidor" for the new shipyard to store my materials while they await to be used in the build I'll post the construction of the humidor when I start it.
Teak, would be interesting. It has a pretty open grain pattern. I would think as with any wood, a careful selection of the pieces chosen would be worth trying on a larger scale model
Bill
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Bill Hime got a reaction from mtaylor in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
Dave,
What a beautiful build! love the wood choices as well. Also very clean!!! This is an excellent tutorial
Bill
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Bill Hime reacted to donrobinson in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
Bloodwood is aptly named as it is splintery and pierces the skin with ease. It is a very oily wood that makes quick work of sandpaper, especially on power tools.
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Bill Hime reacted to donrobinson in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
I have seen teak used and it looks good, it would be great on larger scales..........let's say 1:24
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Bill Hime reacted to PamW in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
Anyone tried teak? I know on many full size ships especially warships of the 20th century decking is teak. Might be a bit wide on grain tho.
Pamela
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Bill Hime reacted to Landlubber Mike in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
Hey Bill,
I've been using redheart on my Pegasus build, and really have enjoyed working with it. It can be a bit crumbly at times, but unless you're doing detailed carving, it hasn't been an issue for me at least when it comes to using it for planking or creating deck structures like the bitts:
http://modelshipworld.com/index.php/topic/7267-hms-pegasus-by-landlubber-mike-amativictory-models-scale-164/?p=441236
I haven't worked with bloodwood, but I heard that it can be splintery, and the UV aging effects are much more dramatic. Redheart will age to an orangy-brown color, while bloodwood will turn a very dark brown almost bordering on black.
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Bill Hime reacted to RussR in What is your favorite wood to plank the deck?
If one was going for realiziam, wouldn't the only factor be whether or not the wood bent well and easy to work with?
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Bill Hime reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
Thanks, guys,
Mike: The yellowheart can be a bit splintery, but I think it can work for smaller parts. I think the color is perfect for the Morgan's bulwark planking!
Don: I use East Indian rosewood, and select for pieces that are dark brown to purplish-black in color.. Even lighter pieces will age to a dark, dark brown. The pores are actually quite small and the grain pattern hardly noticeable if the color isn't terribly variegated.
Scott: Yep! The planking "fans out" after the final bulkead. The hull measurement there is significantly smaller than at the absolute stern, hence the need for a couple of stealers. I have to decide where to put them, but I suspect they'll be in the lowest of the three planking belts.
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Bill Hime reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
This ship has a very odd shaped hull. I drew lines for three bands of planking. At the bow, the hull measurement is significantly less than amidships. This is fairly typical. Using tapering and edge-bending with heat, I should be able to fit all the planks without any trop planks. The stern is different. At the level of the last bulkhead - right where the stern post is, the hull measurement is only slightly (about 1/4") longer than amidships! But from there to the stern, the hull "flares" quite a bit. It will take at least one and maybe two stealers to accommodate the widening, but they won't be very long! We'll see how it goes.
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Bill Hime reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
After installing the upper wales I planked the upper hull with yellow heart and added the lower wales. They are rosewood and measure 1.5mm X 5mm. Given the bluff bow, there was no way to easily bend the lower wales so I built them up using 2 layers of stock 0.75mm in thickness. The wales actually curve under at the counter. I'm still trying to figure our how to install fashion pieces! Hull planking below the lower wale will be holly. The photo is of Fair American planked in holly below the wale.
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Bill Hime reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
Thanks!
Ken: The gun ports are precut into the bulwark formers, as are the scuppers. That part is one continuous strip of thin plywood. The gun port scale gave me some second thoughts. because given the kit's nominal 1/35 scale, the bulwark and gun port sills would be very low - possibly to low to actually place a 3 pounder cannon on the main deck. At the scale I'm building her, (5/16" = 1 foot), The bulwark is a hair under 2 feet high, and the gun port sills are 1foot above the deck. It turns out these are the same dimensions for the gun ports on the Halifax according to Hahn's plans, so I'm OK!
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Bill Hime reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
I'm back at work on "Independence after taking some time to finish my POF Armed Virginia Sloop.
I started planking the hull by installing the upper wales. They are 3mm wide and made of rosewood. The bulwark planking is 3mm wide Swiss pear, 1/32" thick. Below the upper wale will come 3 strakes of yellowheart, each 5mm wide (7-1/2 scale inches). Then comes a 5mm wide main wale, and the lower hull planking, also 5mm wide.
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Bill Hime reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
Here is a series of photos showing how I approached building the windlass. I took a piece of boxwood 3/8" square and cut it into an octagon on my table saw. The piece was cut to 3" in length (about 9'8" in scale). I measured in about an 1-1/8" from each end, and tapered the boxwood by sanding, maintaining the octagon profile. I measure and marked the rabbets for the supports and the center gear. They are all about 1/16' deep. Next, I cut the gear in the center to shape, using a #10 X-Acto blade. Last, I laid out where the holes for the lever rods would go and drilled 1/16" pilot holes at each location. I then took a nail that I had previously filed to a square point and tapped it into each hole, converting the round drill holes into square holes. In the photo, the holes on the left side of the windlass are still round, Tomorrow the supports!
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Bill Hime reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
Thanks, guys!
Elijah: The sailor is a .jpg I scaled down. He is about 5'6" tall, in scale...about right for the average man in the late 18th century.
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Bill Hime reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
The binnacle, with my 5/16" = 1' scale sailor standing next to it.
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Bill Hime reacted to DocBlake in Independence 1775 by DocBlake - Artesania Latina - 5/16" scale.
I'm already impressed. I resawed my lumber to about 1/16"-3/32" on my bandsaw . A pass or two with the coarse paper, and a pass or two with the fine and I was good to go. I am also blown away by the accuracy of the ramp adjustment wheel. It's dead-on. A great tool!
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