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shipaholic
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Everything posted by shipaholic
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Hi Mike I wondered what happened to you, can't wait to see your updates. Steve -
Hi Mick I just used the planks as they were supplied, 250mm long, but made sure I staggered the joins. Steve
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Hi Mick The dark bottom planking was layed without pressure just following the curve of the hull. The upper planks on the sides was a different matter, I was trying to get them to curve upward to follow the lines of the ship and being such thin wood the planks just wanted buckle so I had to coerce them to stay flat by using lots of pins and clamps. I used PVA glue for the planks but every two inches I put a spot of CA for quicker grip. Cheers Steve
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Hi Mick I dug into my archive and here are a few pics of my planking from a long time ago, I pretty much followed the instructions for the first layer and the darker bottom planks, the planks on the sides I layed to follow the lines of the ship instead of just hrizontal. You need to cut a fair few planks to a tapered shape to fill in the gaps, its a bit tricky getting them exactly the right shape and its really noticable when you don't on the dark planking, a bit of trial and error sometimes. Steve
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Sunday, raining and cold outside so I lit the wood heater in my garage and went to work to finish making the gun carriages.
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Hi Slog I laquered the blocks first with varnish stain which makes them waterproof so the blackening liquid doesn't stain the wood. I intend to laquer all the blocks on my model, when I built my AL Endeavour I sanded each block to shape individually and laquered them, a lot of work but they look pretty realistic. I'll be using Chuck's blocks on this model so not so much tedious sanding this time Steve
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Hi Slog This is what I use to blacken, I bought it online from a gun place called Magnum Sports www.magnumsports.com.au Cheers Steve
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Hi Mick, Yes the OcCre and this kit are basically the same, except your OcCre kit probably has different instructions. My Endeavour is almost a scratch built model using the kit as a base, I have modified lots of things, bought different fittings and scratch built lots of parts so it looks a lot different to an Endeavour built from an OcCre kit or Eaglemoss partwork. I have gone back and basically researched the ship myself and I am basing my build on the original plans (draughts) drawn when the Endeavour was rebuilt for Cook's voyage in 1768. There are two main other references for Endeavour used by modellers and kit manufactureres these are the books "Anatomy of the Ship - Captain Cook's Endeavour" by KH Marquardt and "HM Bark Endeavour" by Ray Parkin. Both books contain invaluable information about the ship but I don't believe they are 100% correct, the fact that they disagree with each other in so many details and differ from the original 1768 plans in many ways leads me to that conclusion. Planking, yes planking the Endeavour is difficult because of its shape, so you need to use lots of stealers and tapered planks. I still have lots of pics taken during my planking effort if you want me to post them let me know. But agin I didn't follow the instructions entirely because I fitted the planks on the sides above the main wales so that they curved like the planks on a real ship which made the task a bit more difficult. Cheers Steve
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Hi Mick I think cannons look more realistic blackened instead of painted, give them a good buff with a rag and put them in the blackening liquid again. It usually takes two goes to get them blackened properly. Cheers Steve
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Hi Alistair Thanks . The hooks are just copper wire, I blackened them after fitting to the block, that way the blackening isn't scratched off when bending the wire to shape with the pliers Steve
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I fitted the breasthook to the bow. This is the bow arrangement that is shown on the 1768 draughts. The knighthead is shaped as suggested by Parkinson's sketch. So the whole bow arrangement is completely different to what is shown in the AOTS and similar to Ray Parkin's drawings. Steve
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Hi Mick Its best if you stain/paint the planks after fitting them, no matter how good you fit them they will still need to be sanded. Once sanded, stain the planks a colour you think looks right, it doesn't have to be the orange/yellow colour the instructions say. (Don't get me started about the instructions for this model) then mark out where the upper rubbing strake goes with a pencil and paint above it with blue paint. Sand smooth and paint the strake before fitting then when fitted it will cover the boundary between the stained planks and the planks painted blue, no need for masking tape. Fit the main wale, sand smooth and then paint black, you will need to use masking tape when painting the main wale. Hope this helps Steve
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Hi Slog I previously bought a serving machine from a supplier in the US for $35 but it was almost useless, Alexey's is a bit more expensive but worth it Steve
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Looks good Slog, when I did mine I wasn't sure whether to put blocks on the tiller, the AOTS shows blocks on the tiller arm but Ray Parkins drawings don't. Toss a coin. The Replica vessel doesn't have them and that's an actual working ship so it must function okay, I guess it comes down to how many blocks are required to do the work of swinging the tiller. I bought some 2mm blocks from Chuck to do my cannon, they are really small, too small to do my cannon tackle at 1:51, maybe okay for yours at 1:60. Theyre really nice blocks though, worth the money. When I built my AL Endeavour I was sanding each block individually to shape with an emery board and applying varnish. Cheers Steve
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Gidday Mick One thing I did was stop using the nails half way through because I though it might make sanding the planks difficult (I later found out I was right) and switched to using dress pins hammered in to hold down the planks until the glue dried then pulled them out with pliers. A bit more time consuming though. Steve
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Yes Greg Its practically identical to the partwork that I am building, heres a pic of mine at the same stage Steve
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Hi Slog For serving I used tan coloured cotton sewing thread that I bought from Spotlight. I bought a serving machine from Alexey Domanoff and it really does a good job. Steve
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Today I made the bowsprit shrouds. I served them and then turned in the eye for the hook and turned in the deadeye. I have decided to use deadeyes instead of hearts for the shrouds and bobstays, I think deadeyes look more 1768.
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Thanks Rowand, that pic looks like it was taken in Melbourne, I also have quite a few pics of the replica that I took when she visited Melbourne last year. I have a wheel support just like that one (it came with my AL Endeavour) I was tossing up which one to use but in the end decided to use the one supplied with the partwork.
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Robin The companion is as supplied with the kit, most of this kit seems to be based on Marquardt's book. I haven't yet decided what to do with the other hatch in the waist, I don't think it would have had a companionway as well. I will probably fit a hinged lid like the Caldercraft Endeavour has.
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More pics and updates; I have modified the transom shape slightly to take out the curve inward above the women's heads. I have also started making new gun carriages. I bought some better looking barrels from Chuck Passaro, I also bought some of Chuck's gun carriages but they are slightly large and the wrong shape for a 4 pounder British gun so I am scratch building them.
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