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shipaholic
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Everything posted by shipaholic
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Thanks Mike, can't wait till you restart your Endeavour build -
Thanks Bindy
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I finished the fore and main top rails today, just need to complete the mizzen top then I can paint/varnish the masts and put on the woolding rope
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Thanks Alistaire
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I've only been doing a few bits and pieces on the ship lately, Last week I made the jib boom, its just temporarily tied in place. Today I made the first set of four stanchions for the handrail on the fore top. I might need to make some sort of jig because they are a bit tricky to keep lined up properly during soldering using these alligator clips. I'm open to suggestions.
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Oh no! That's terrible Greg. Bloody cats. Hope you can fix it. A cat knocked my AL Endeavour off the shelf, luckily the damage was easily fixed.
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Hi Pat Can I weigh in on this one (excuse the pun) on the bumpkins Ships at anchor were very much at the mercy of the wind blowing the ship around, and it wasn't just a matter of dropping the anchor and then hauling it straight up again when weighing anchor. These diagrams from the book "The Young Sea Officer's Sheet Anchor" illustrate that fact. It seems anchor cables easily became tangled due to the ships moving around when at anchor, they even made the bobstay more adjustable on small ships like Endeavour that didn't have a figurehead so that it didn't foul the anchor cable. I cant imagine how the anchors on Endeavour would have been managed AT ALL with bumpkins fitted as shown in the AOTS. Cheers Steve
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Hi Ron Do your instructions say to fit the main wales before the top layer of planks? the main wale should be fitted afer the second layer of planks. This is a pic of the first three top planks fitted where the main wale will go on my hull. Steve
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Thanks Mike, yeah I saw the pics of your Victory, nice piece of work. I built a Corel Victory about 20 years ago but its nowhere near as good as yours.
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Hi Slog The hoops on the masthead are made from plastic pinstriping for cars, just cut it to width and stick it on. The battens just sit on top, no notches. Cheers Steve
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I've been working on the mainmast this weekend. For the masting I'm using the AOTS drawings which I enlarged to 1:51 scale
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Hi Slog No the flattend areas arent quite as wide as the bibs. It has to be a bit of a trade-off because you are starting with kit supplied round section. I compromised with mine a bit hoping that it won't be noticed once its painted/laquered and hidden under the top. Steve
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Hi again Slog, Your new post appeared whilst I was still posting mine. Here is a pic from Lees' masting and rigging of English ships of war that shows sections, the Endeavour didn't have a front fish. Hope it helps. Steve
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Hi Slog, looking good. Actual masts were fairly complex and yes instructions with kits are usually vague. Here is how I did my masts - they are tapered along the length but the sides where the cheeks go are also sanded flat. The cheeks themselves also have a taper both in thickness and width, the bottom being flat and the top curved. The curve on the fore and aft of the mast is gradually reduced so that it becomes the flat square section above the top. Confusing eh? In the pic there's a shadow on the mast plus the grain makes it look like theres a bit of a hump but it does taper gradually. Cheers Steve
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Awesome Slog! can't wait to see it all put together on the masts Steve
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Nice work Mike Just to clarify the steel bands, the axles had them but not the wheels themselves Cheers Steve
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Today I am fitting the wooden hoops either side of the woolding on the foremast. I am using iron-on wood veneer edging that I got from a hardware shop. I peeled off the heat sensitive glue layer and cut it into thin strips then soaked them in hot water to soften the wood. I used PVA glue and held them in place with cellophane tape until the glue dried
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Hi Slog Gee the photos look good. I think you should try option 2. The stem should be level or almost level with the gunwale. If you have a Dremel or similar it should be easy to sand down the stem then clean it up with a file. Steve
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Hi guys, it's the 1/4 inch scale lantern
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