RMC

The cross trees are now fitted. The photo shows the top gallant masts dry-fitted.  The sheaves and the blocks are fitted to the top masts where necessary, and this was a mistake.  The shrouds have to be fitted over the cross trees and the sheaves and the blocks already fitted make things difficult.  Moreover the sheaves were fitted accurately according to the plans, which does not leave enough room to fit the shrouds and the stays. Had I shifted the sheaves up about 3mm (possible to do) there really wouldn't have been a problem.
 
This is progress to date. The more I see how large the it is, the more I have no idea what to do with the damn thing when (if) it's finished.
 

 
Below are a couple of the cross trees fitted with sheaves and blocks. The gap between the bottom of the sheaves and the cross trees is 3 or 4mm.  Unfortunately six loops of shrouds (1mm thread is specified) have to fit there, as well as the stays. I am using fractionally thinner Syren thread (0.86mm but I am serving it - which will make it close enough to 1mm. I guess it will turn out in the end.
 

 

 
There is a bit of good news though - the ratlines for the lower masts are finished.

I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
 
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
 

 

 
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
 

 

 
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
 
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.

 

 
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
 

 

 
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.

 

 

 
 

I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
 
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
 

 

 
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
 

 

 
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
 
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.

 

 
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
 

 

 
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.

 

 

 
 

The ship's boats are now finished. I ended up using less than half of the fittings supplied. Even so, the boats are quite cluttered, but I am pleased with the result. I hope less really is more, though I have always had trouble convincing my children of that.
 
As well, I have appropriated (ie, stolen) some ideas from Jose who was kind enough to show me his excellent work on the boats. Unfortunately the photos are not as clear as they should be.
 

 

 

 
 
I have also been working on the main yard. It has been an exercise in how not to do it. In addition to a couple of silly mistakes, I have made things unnecessarily difficult by doing things in the wrong order. I suggest the following.
 
1. fit the lower stun sail boom bracket (284)
 
2. fit the low bracket (inner) (286 NOT 288 as shown incorrectly on the plan)
 
3. drill holes for, but do not fit the stun sail boom rings (515 and 515a). These may be added last.
 
4. drill holes to receive foot rope stirrups (524)
 
5. fit the blocks, leaving sufficient space to tie on the foot ropes.
 
6. fit the foot rope stirrups and ropes.
 
Here is my rather painful progress.
 

The bobstays are now done. While a little fiddly, they were far easier than I expected. The first photo shows bulldog clips on the lashings to provide some tension. I left them over the weekend, then made any adjustments necessary to make them taught. Tying off the lashings was a bit awkward, but I have found wetting the thread here (and elsewhere) makes it far easier to handle.
 

 
Here they are, complete.
 

 

 

 
Meanwhile the ratline saga continues while I look for any excuse to avoid them. The port side is now done, those for the main and mizzen masts on the starboard side are yet to do.
 
 

The bobstays on the Victory are apparently doubled as the two following photos show. Is this the usual method for 74 gun ships too? Advice is very welcome.
 

 

I was able to resolve a problem with tying off the bobstays (at least I think that's what they are) to the stem. The plans do not seem to show how it is done.
 
I took a couple of photos of the Victory while in Portsmouth  two or three weeks ago which gave me the general idea.
 

 

 

 
Tying off the bowsprit shrouds.
 

 
I was interested in the revised colour scheme of the Victory  - almost a pink - which, based on new research, is evidently the ship's true colour at the time of Trafalgar.
 
Portsmouth is well worth a visit.  My only disappointment was the temporary closure of the Mary Rose exhibit for renovation, though there is a small but excellent display of artifacts provided.
 
I was also able to visit the National Maritime Museum in Paris which has a wonderful display of models from the 16th century to the present day. Very highly recommended.
 
 

While trying to avoid doing the ratlines for a while, I decided to revisit the ship's boats. Fitting all the oars while trying avoid the appearance of clutter is a bit of a problem. I have experimented by 'fanning' about half of the oars to make space for the anchors and other bits and pieces. It seems to have worked though I have no idea if the result is 'authentic'. Nothing is yet fixed except the crewman.  I will certainly use Jdieck's excellent ideas of putting three or four barrels into the boats, and his rope coils tied to the anchors.
 
Incidentally, the smallest boat in my has an enclosed bow, unlike Jdieck's - this gives his boat a little more room to stow things. Even the short oars do not properly fit into mine.
 
This is how I propose to arrange the oars. Suggestions are welcome.
 

 

The fore and fore preventer stays are now finished; snaking, and crows feet done. The main and main preventer stays are snaked (?) and the crows feet will be finished over the next couple of days. Here are some photos of progress.
 
Lashing of the fore stay. I don't known if this is correct, but it seemed the most obvious way to do it.

 

 
The mizzen stay - not a very good photo.
 

 
Snaking the main and main preventer stays. I have used Arthur's method which was surprisingly easy (I am a highly reluctant knot tier ) and effective (as expected ). It is however quite difficult to see what is going on. Consequently I hung a sheet of paper over a piece of thread tied between the fore and main topmasts to highlight the two stays and show the process more clearly.
 

 

 
Snaking the fore stays.
 

 
This is what it all looked like before the crows feet for the forestays.
 

 
The crows feet for the fore stays turned out to be a small disaster. One of the holes in the euphoe through which the thread passes was partially blocked. In attempting to unblock it (I used a pin as I don't have a drill bit small enough), I made the hole too large and the euphroe was hanging together by a thread  - but not for long . I made an attempt to salvage it (sticking fine electrical wire along top and bottom) which almost worked and possibly would have if the damage had been somewhere other than the second hole.
 
Here is the sad result (I would have painted it, had it worked ...)

 
I then tried some of the same brass from which the euphroe came to make another.  The brass proved too hard for the drill bit which kept slipping from the spot. By this time I was not rejoicing. Fortunately I then remembered that I had a little copper strip of a similar thickness and width of the euphroe. Here is the result of a rather fraught process.
 
This is the copper strip in process - the holes are a bit wonkey, and further apart than I wanted.
 

 
The finished ersatz euphroe - a bit longer than the original.
 

 
The crows feet after the drama. The new euphroe doesn't appear to be noticeable, though the smaller, original euphroe for the main stays may look a a bit odd. I'll worry about that when I get to it.
 

 

 

 
 

The bowsprit is now mounted. I have delayed this as long as possible.  It's one more invitation to bump and destroy. I had quite a bit of trouble finding the correct way to gammon the bowsprit. The plan was singularly unhelpful - to me at least.
 
 The only thing that seemed clear  is that there is a loop formed at the end of the gammoning which goes around the bowspprit and then the rest of the gammoning  is wound around it in some mysterious way. I eventually found a reference to the process on this website under masting and rigging.  It showed some photos taken from an unnamed book which did prove helpful. If anyone would like a photo of the photo, let me know.
 

 
Here is the gammoning partially completed,
 

 
and completed.
 

 
How the bowprit looks at the moment:

 
I can see a copy of my guide in the background of the following photo. I'm not sure if I have the gammioning right, but it looks OK and it's not going to be changed now.
 

 
 

Lashing collars - help needed.
 
I have looked fairly extensively over this website and elsewhere, and cannot find the method by which collars are lashed to the bowsprit.  I have thought of putting a half hitch on one loop and winding thread through the other, then making a few turns through both loops, finally tying off with another half hitch.  I guess this would work, but it doesn't seem to be very satisfactory. It results in a couple of loose ends for a start.
 
Does anyone have suggestions?  Here is the problem ...
 
.
 
Here is some progress on the bowsprit. The fittings are now complete. As has so often been the case, I have appropriated one of Arthur's ideas with the bees. I remembered I had some fittings left over when I used parts of Cornwall Model Boats carronades to modify the ones provided in the kit. Included were two little brass rollers that I have now used a sheaves in the bees (?). Perhaps the brass is a bit obvious and I may end up painting them brown, but the idea seems to have worked. But if I need two more there will be a problem ......
 

 
I hope I have now fixed all the dead eyes that need to be fixed on the bowsprit.. (If I haven't, please let me know.)  From the plans, I found it a bit difficult to figure out just what is going on, and I'm not all that confident that I do have it right.  Doing all of this off the model is likely to be easier than waiting until the bowsprit is mounted.
 

 

 
This how things are working out.
 

 
In the meantime, the ratlines march on.
 
 

Work on the stays is now quite advanced. All the mouses are complete  and all that needs to be done is to attach the various blocks and related rigging. However almost all this needs to be done on the model, and it looks to be a fairly daunting series of jobs.
 
Here are  the main stays
 

 
and how they will eventually be fixed.
 

 
The mizzen stay
 

 
and roughly how they will all look.
 

 
I have now started rigging the bowsprit. I am following Petersson - using collars for the forestays. One is complete (below).  The photo shows what appears to be bubbling of the paint. It hasn't.  The photo was taken in full sun and perhaps this caused the appearance.  Very odd.

 
Doing all of this has enabled me to avoid  as much as possible doing the ratlines.  Only a couple of thousand-odd knots to go. I can't bring myself to actually count them.  Here is progress, such as it is.
 

I have taken Jdieck's advice and started on the fore and main stays. This means that I will have to finish rigging the bowsprit, so I will have plenty to occupy me while (almost) avoiding the ratlines. The lops of the forestays are now done.  Serving the loops with their mouses (sic?) proved to be rather fiddly and the result could have been better. At least I have learned a few things and I hope to do a better job on the main stays.
 
Here is the mouse for the fore stay.  The end with the greater taper was done with a pencil sharpener (thanks Arthur).  With hindsight I should have made a greater taper on the other end. It would have made it easier to serve.
 

 

 
Here is the loop that fits around the mast, served and with the mouse.

 

 
The following photos show the fore and fore preventer stays loosely fitted around the mast. Things are obviously very crowded indeed and it is difficult to see just what is going on. It all looks like a bowl of demented spaghetti. Attaching the yards is going to be quite a job.
 
 

 

 
Here are the stays looped around the mast and all the previous rigging (jeers, shrouds etc.).  Is this correct?
 

 

 
I would have preferred to have the loops slightly larger, but the result is acceptable.

 
 
 
 

The ratlines are now started. For the lower masts there are only about  1,800 knots to go .
 
I decided to begin with  every 5 rows - the ones that stretch from the first to the last shroud. By doing this, I am hoping that the spacing of the shrouds will not be affected.  According to the instructions (I had almost forgotten about them) the spacing of the ratlines should be 5 to 6mm. I chose 6mm - more for sanity than authenticity. The fewer knots the better.  I began with a template and superimposed the knot-tying process over the template.
 
Here is the template.  The rows are horizontal (ie, parallel to the keel) , and the every fifth row - the longer rows - are marked heavily.

 
The few rows completed and pictured took about 40 minutes per row - what with a couple of mistakes and a certain amount of bad temper.  I found wetting the fine thread made it slightly easier to handle.  The half hitches were more likely to stay tied (though not invariably) and it was easier to get the right 'hang' of the thread. Once things seemed to be about right, I applied 50:50 white glue and water and made any needed adjustments (eg, tightening knots) while the glue was still wet.  That way, the adjustments stayed adjusted!
 
The following photo makes the rows towards the top look as if they are not parallel. In fact they are (after this photo was taken, I checked to make sure). The template had just fallen back a little as I had removed one of the clips holding it.
 
 

 
This shows things a little more clearly.
 

 

 
The process was about as relaxing and enjoyable as playing a bad round of golf, so I will finish the job a little at a time while working on other things. I'm hoping this may preserve what remains of my good humour and make me slightly easier to live with.

I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
 
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
 

 

 
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
 

 

 
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
 
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.

 

 
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
 

 

 
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.

 

 

 
 

I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
 
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
 

 

 
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
 

 

 
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
 
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.

 

 
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
 

 

 
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.

 

 

 
 

I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
 
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
 

 

 
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
 

 

 
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
 
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.

 

 
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
 

 

 
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.

 

 

 
 

I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
 
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
 

 

 
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
 

 

 
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
 
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.

 

 
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
 

 

 
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.

 

 

 
 

I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
 
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
 

 

 
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
 

 

 
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
 
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.

 

 
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
 

 

 
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.

 

 

 
 

I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
 
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
 

 

 
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
 

 

 
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
 
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.

 

 
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
 

 

 
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.

 

 

 
 

I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
 
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
 

 

 
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
 

 

 
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
 
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.

 

 
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
 

 

 
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.

 

 

 
 

I have made a fair amount of progress oveer the last week or two (the weather has been horrible - winter is finally here).
 
The topmasts have finally been fixed.
 

 

 
The hand ropes on the bowsprit have been attached. There was a slight trauma here as I had provided only two eyes for the bow timber heads. It seems I should have provided three - though I haven't found three anywhere on the plans. Despite appearances the ropes are not too taught.
 

 

 
I then got a little carried away in fitting netting (the tulle used for the hammock netting was dyed black) to the safety railing on the tops. After all you can't have sailors suing the Admiralyy for failing to provide a safe working environment. It seemed like a good idea at the time. Once I had done one I thought I may as well do the remaining two, but I don't think it was all worth the effort. For those who are also into self-inflicted pain, here is the method I used.
 
A guide was drawn with the verticals spaced by the holes provided on the tops. I used a pair of dividers to obtain the spacing between the holes.

 

 
A piece of 3x1mm strip was inserted into the notches provided in the posts. The Tamiya tape shown makes the strip a little thicker and enables the strip to stay temporarily fixed in the notches.
 

 

 
This is the result for the fore top. Since the photos below, some touching up has been done and it has turned out fairly well.

 

 

 
 

The ship's boats are now finished. I ended up using less than half of the fittings supplied. Even so, the boats are quite cluttered, but I am pleased with the result. I hope less really is more, though I have always had trouble convincing my children of that.
 
As well, I have appropriated (ie, stolen) some ideas from Jose who was kind enough to show me his excellent work on the boats. Unfortunately the photos are not as clear as they should be.
 

 

 

 
 
I have also been working on the main yard. It has been an exercise in how not to do it. In addition to a couple of silly mistakes, I have made things unnecessarily difficult by doing things in the wrong order. I suggest the following.
 
1. fit the lower stun sail boom bracket (284)
 
2. fit the low bracket (inner) (286 NOT 288 as shown incorrectly on the plan)
 
3. drill holes for, but do not fit the stun sail boom rings (515 and 515a). These may be added last.
 
4. drill holes to receive foot rope stirrups (524)
 
5. fit the blocks, leaving sufficient space to tie on the foot ropes.
 
6. fit the foot rope stirrups and ropes.
 
Here is my rather painful progress.
 

The bobstays are now done. While a little fiddly, they were far easier than I expected. The first photo shows bulldog clips on the lashings to provide some tension. I left them over the weekend, then made any adjustments necessary to make them taught. Tying off the lashings was a bit awkward, but I have found wetting the thread here (and elsewhere) makes it far easier to handle.
 

 
Here they are, complete.
 

 

 

 
Meanwhile the ratline saga continues while I look for any excuse to avoid them. The port side is now done, those for the main and mizzen masts on the starboard side are yet to do.
 
 

The ship's boats are now finished. I ended up using less than half of the fittings supplied. Even so, the boats are quite cluttered, but I am pleased with the result. I hope less really is more, though I have always had trouble convincing my children of that.
 
As well, I have appropriated (ie, stolen) some ideas from Jose who was kind enough to show me his excellent work on the boats. Unfortunately the photos are not as clear as they should be.
 

 

 

 
 
I have also been working on the main yard. It has been an exercise in how not to do it. In addition to a couple of silly mistakes, I have made things unnecessarily difficult by doing things in the wrong order. I suggest the following.
 
1. fit the lower stun sail boom bracket (284)
 
2. fit the low bracket (inner) (286 NOT 288 as shown incorrectly on the plan)
 
3. drill holes for, but do not fit the stun sail boom rings (515 and 515a). These may be added last.
 
4. drill holes to receive foot rope stirrups (524)
 
5. fit the blocks, leaving sufficient space to tie on the foot ropes.
 
6. fit the foot rope stirrups and ropes.
 
Here is my rather painful progress.