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alross2
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Everything posted by alross2
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The best way to remove it is not to get it... I don't get it very often because I double or triple mask, first with pin striping tape (1/16' or 1/8"), then an overlap of 1/4" tape, then another overlap with low tack painter's tape (and paper if it's a large surface. Still, stuff happens sometimes. The underbleed I normally get is between the hull and a bright finished deck. In most cases, I use a very sharp #11 blade and cut alongside any objects against which the underbleed rests. This gives a nice sharp edge to end against when scraping. Then, depending on the size of the area around the paint, I scrape with the grain towards the sharp edge using a variety of chisel blades and a razor blade. You need a gentle touch and to keep the blade vertical. If it's paint on paint, now you have a definite problem. If it's gloss paint and the base coat is well cured, you can use a Q tip dipped in a mild thinner and lightly swab aqay the underbled color. Sometimes you can use automotive polishing compound and a soft cloth on some paints, as well. In all probability, with a paint on paint problem, you're probably going to have to remask and repaint. FAIR WARNING: I seldom brush paint any large surface. Generally, I use an airbrush and sometimes a rattle can. Consequently, I'm not sure how well this would work with a brushed surface.- 47 replies
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Test fitting one of the twelve gunner's grates to the inside of the hammock net structure. The brass section at the ladder is 3/8" tall. The white strip is .020" styrene.
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Starting to put on the little stuff. This is the aft portion of the main deck with bitts and hatches.
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A little history on this kit - When Jeff and Suzi Marger owned BlueJacket, Suzi wanted a kit that a kid could build without any tools other than sandpaper. I came up with this basic design of a typical skiff you might find on a lake here in Maine. It's not exactly to scale, but close and kids had fun building it.
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OK, bottom color on this AM. After peeling away all of the masking tape, I found some underbleed on the deck, but that's easily removed. The next activity will be adding the photo-etched coal scuttles and bases for the deck furniture. The waterline masking was a little tricky, as it is 1/16" below the top of the armor belt. I taped off the hull along the top of the armor belt with 1/4" striping tape, then used 1/16" striping tape below that. Regular painters' masking tape was applied from the 1/16" tape up. The first layer of color was from rattlecan of red primer, followed by an airbrushing of flat red.
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Finish coat of white is now on the hull and superstructure and the mast is finished except for the binnacle and railing, which won't go on until the mast is in place on the model. Like Comment Share
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The sponsons below the overhang of the 6" casemates are a simple shape but a bugger to get right.
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I'm working on the OREGON instructions today and decided the text on setting the bilge keels needed an enhanced illustration to accompany the jig illustration. The dimension from the rudder post to the aft end of the bilge keel will be filled in when I get back to the model in my shop and measure it.
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For sale - complete, numbered set (#590 of 2000). Most have only been looked at a couple times. I wrote a chapter on Coastal Forces in THE ECLIPSE OF THE BIG GUN volume. $600 US including media mail shipping in continental US.
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You go, Mark! If I get a call from someone having a problem with one of the kits I developed, first thing I ask them is whether they read the instructions. If not, I tell them to back and read them, then call me. Because there is so much laser and photo-etch, there is a specific sequence to be followed that isn't necessarily intuitive. I used to develop training materials and procedures for the nuclear power industry and taught technical writing at a college.
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Let's be honest; not everyone reads and follows instructions. While this isn't a good idea in kits with lots of premade parts, it happens. So, one of the challenges in kit design is to tailor your illustrations for this potential situation. While thinking about the text for this process, I realized that the initial illustration (while just fine if you read the instructions) might be better if it mimicked the text more closely. Thus, the second illustration.
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First coat of white primer this morning. Prior to that, I had just mounted the PE torpedo tube covers and the 6 pdr hull casemates and hinges.
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Thanks, Ron. The centerline for the 6 pdr casemate is also that for the armor belt and that will be stated in the instructions.
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This morning's activity. I had to reduce it to fit the 11 x 17 format, thus the dimensions.
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This information is from John Lambert and my ALLIED COASTAL FORCES OF WWII, Volume 2, and was taken directly from ELCO drawings, of which I have hundreds. PT103-196, 314-367, 372-383 had planked decks. PT486-563, 565 on had plywood decks.
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I have the following Anatomy of the Ship books for sale. All are the original Conway Maritime Press LTD. hardbounds except QUEEN MARY, which is USNIP. I've had them for about 30 years, but they've only been looked through a few times. The bindings still make that "like new" cracking sound. Prices include shipping by Media Mail. Payment through PayPal only, plz. The 20-gun ship BLANDFORD – Goodwin, 1988 (ISBN 0-85177-469-5) SOLD The 100-gun ship VICTORY – McKay, 1987 (ISBN 0-85177-444-X) SOLD The 74-gun ship BELLONA – Lavery, 1985 (ISBN 0-85177-368-0 SOLD The Bomb Vessel GRANADO 1742 – Goodwin, 1989 (ISBN 0-87021-178-1) SOLD The Frigate DIANA – White, 1987 (ISBN 0-85177-356-7) SOLD The Cunard Liner QUEEN MARY – Watton, 1989 (ISBN 0-87021-599-2) $75
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Maybe it's just the camera angle, but it seems like the area between the two red lines is straight rather than an arc. Is it the same on the other side? Scarfing on a short piece about 3/16" or so wide between the lines then fairing it would probably solve the issue.
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Hopefully, the front torpedo tube slides are not glued on. They're backwards. What's supposed to be the training gearbox is supposed to be inboard.
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This one required some rework, but should be OK now. It shows the layout of the hammock storage structure. The gunner's grates are only 3/8" x 1/2", but are photo-etched and have the holes completely through. When not in use, they folded down. The pale yellow on the lower section represents silkspan which is used to simulate the canvas curtain over the hammock storage.
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Here's the prop shaft and strut alignment jig in use. The assembled jig Aligning the prop shaft boss. Slot cut for the strut. Strut in place. Strut and boss aligned.
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I always cut a slot for the bilge keels as it is sturdier than just gluing them to the surface of the hull. After using the marking jig and using the batten to form a fair curve, I cut along the curve at about a 45 degree angle with a hobby knife, then use a slot head screwdriver to widen and deepen the knife cut to 1/16" or so. If you take you take your time and don't force it, the screwdriver works well. Once the slot is incised, you can dry fit the bilge keel in place to ensure fairness, adjust the slot if necessary, then glue the bilge keel in place. A bit of filler will take care of any resultant gaps.
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The pilot house itself is not a complex assembly and is built upside down over a form. The angled cuts at the back of the form are to prevent the sides from sticking to it when they are glued together. The sides are .015" laser board, which bends well. The bluish green items are clear styrene strips which will be inserted after the pilot house is assembled and painted.
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Another of today's creations. This shows the jig used for aligning the prop shafts and the prop strut arrangement. Keep in mind that there will be associated text in the manual. 3Will Day and 2 others Seen by 9
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