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Everything posted by alross2
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Charles W. Morgan - Model Boat Kit | Blue Jacket Shipcrafters, Inc. (bluejacketinc.com)
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The chicken coop was a bit of a fun part. It's mostly lasered and the slats are all panels to ensure consistent spacing. The vise consists of 8 or so pieces and is large enough that you can thread the screw and have it operate.
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The tryworks consists of a laser-cut wood box with the brick pattern etched into its sides. The individual bricks are lasered from cork. Each course of bricks is laid with a 1/64" spacer to ensure consistent spacing. Once the brickwork is completed, it is sprayed with red oxide primer and, when that has dried, it is grouted with Spackle. Looks amazingly real when dry. They offer the tryworks as a separate kit, too.
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This is one of the more unusual items Nic has had me create. It's at 1/24 scale and is intended to be planked on one side, left unplanked on the other. It shows about 20 feet of the actual hull and includes the tryworks. There are about 800 bricks in the tryworks, so it takes an hour or so to build...🙂
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Visit Todd Woofenden's SUBCHASER ARCHIVES site https://www.subchaser.org Many photos and historical data on the WW1 boats. .
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You may find these useful when you get to the detail stage. SC448 (2020_01_23 01_21_01 UTC)_Compressed.pdf
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Keep in mind that the real RED BARON is a fiberglass boat, built before 2000. She's going to be very smooth. At this scale, any non-slip is going to be very, very, very fine. Even 600 grit sandpaper is probably too coarse a grain for simulating non-slip.
- 30 replies
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- Red Baron
- Bluejacket Shipcrafters
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When I printed out the initial General Arrangement drawing, the resulting sheet was 36" x 64" - kinda big for the average work surface. While it will still be included in the kit, I've broken down the deck plan into 11" x 17" sheets - fore, midships, aft. These will include measurements from a fixed point for placing the major structures. Here's the first draft of the Aft Section.
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In a similar vein as the question on Soviet Navy colors in WWII... Am also looking for the official colors used by the Royal Netherlands Navy. Higgins built eight 70' sub chasers for the RNN (OJR1-6, H7, H8). The first six were shipped in a very dark scheme to Soerabaja, where they were soon scuttled to avoid capture by the Japanese. The other two boats were later shipped to the West Indies in a different scheme.
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Thank you! This is precisely the type of information for which I am looking, despite it being post-WWII. Is this booklet scanned or otherwise available online? Are there other color chips in it? Do you know whether the colors changed post-WWII? This was the case with USN colors during and after WWII. The names remained the same, but the actual colors were different, sometimes remarkedly so.
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In talking with a friend who was a gunners mate during Nam, I discovered that a few MK1s were retrofitted with the MK56, but it was not common practice. He also said that 105 was not one of them. As an aside, the manual for the PBR MK2 indicates that they were painted Marine Green 23, supposedly FS34052. This is the standard PBR MK1 mount and the MK17 mount from which it was derived.
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I'm looking for the official paint names used by the Soviet Navy in WWII. In the US Navy, for instance, there was Haze Gray (5-H), Ocean Gray (5-o), etc., and I'm looking for the Soviet designations of their paints. Among other things, I'm trying to determine the colors used on this Lend/Leased Higgins PT, which was assigned to the Northern Fleet. The white is rather obvious, but the two darker shades are probably grays or blues. Not looking for conjecture or guesses. As SGT Joe Friday used to say, "Just the facts,.." Thanks. TK211
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Here's a typical drawing for laser parts. This is a 1/16" basswood sheet with parts for cabin sides, trestles and cross trees, hoister house, cargo hatch battens, etc. All of the sheets have an ID number indicating the thickness, type of wood, and individual sheet number (if there are more than one). For instance, this one is 116B1, which indicates it's 1/16" basswood and sheet #1. In the building manual, each laser cut part is identified by description, number, and which sheet it is on, which saves you hunting around on x number of sheets for that specific part.
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Instead of tied ratlines, the WYOMING had round slats of either wood or metal. Now, I could just include lots of brass rod in the kit and let you cut and place them individually.... However, that would be outside my normal level of cruelty, so I'm including strips of laser-cut slats on .030" laser board. There are two widths as the forecastle ratlines were across three shrouds and the rest of the masts across two shrouds. All you have to do is remove the strip from the carrier sheet, trim to length, slather the back of the strip with glue, and set it on the shrouds. When the glue has dried, you just trim the slats to length with scissors or clippers. The laser-board is a nice dark brown color, so you don't even have to paint. There are a couple extra strips of both widths, just in case...
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Got this done today. If you're wondering about the numbering system, F before a number is a stock britannia casting or machined brass piece, FWY is a casting made specifically for this kit, LWY is a laser-cut piece specifically for WYOMING, and PEWY is a photo-etched part specifically for WYOMING. All of the plans are accompanied by building/assembly instructions in the manual. For a kit of this complexity, the manuals typically run 50 or more pages.
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